Havenhouse - the reboot

[Moggs Eye]

Spilsby, Think I've mentioned before that the station building is the same design as Sandy,  even thought some time ago about an exhibition layout of Spilsby as Sandy can't go out on the road........as if a huge layout, helping out a friends 2mm layout of Little Salkeld and club layouts weren't enough..........

 

At the Caistor Exhibition this year I had my layout opposite a very nice 4mm Spilsby. I believe it's owner is a member of the Sleaford club.

Edited January 11, 2017 by Moggs Eye

[JCL]

Was it this one? It looks really very good - and has an A5 and a G1 to boot!

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/38802492@N06/

 

 

Spilsby - Cupar MRC by Cupar & District Model Railway Club, on Flickr

Edited January 12, 2017 by JCL

[JCL]

What he means is the bit highlighted here should be set back from the outer frames giving a bit more depth:

Image702.jpg

 

Edit: Thinking about it you could probably do the central bolster on the same layer as the brake shoes which fix behind the current sideframes.

Thanks for the photo Mike, a lot of things make sense now.

[mullie]

The seat PDF you posted a week or so ago came in really useful thank you.  I created a PDF with a suitable number of seat on it and printed it out on thin card and here is the result.

 

 

They were cut out the old fashioned way and here is the end result.

 

 

[JCL]

Thanks Mullie, it's always good to see if the files are helpful.

 

I've managed to grab a quick photo of the cutter in action dicing up some 1mm card. I've taken a brief break from the 6 wheelers to see if I could do something with the bogies. I've taken Andy's comments and Mikes photo into account and cut out new parts this evening. I'll put up a post tomorrow showing the amended bogie assembled.

 

I think it's looking promising.

 

 

After that, back to the 6 wheelers...

Edited January 23, 2017 by JCL

[freebs]

Is that a laser cutter, Jason?

How do the middle (waste) bits stay in place? Is the card attached to a low-tac backing?

[JCL]

Hi there, it is, it's the Emblaser 1 from Darkly Labs. I was lucky enough to buy it as a part of the work I do. The machine can cut or score things that aren't transparent or reflective. Unfortunately I also can't cut styrene - it melts the stuff and chlorine is off-gassed, so pretty dangerous.

 

The cutter has a bed approximately A3 in size. It comes with an anodized aluminium base, but unfortunately that is so thin it doesn't lay flat. I've changed the base for chipboard which, like a Silhouette cutting mat, I'll change from time to time. For thin MDF, plywood and thick card I use masking tape to hold down the edges. This keeps things steady and flattens out materials with slight waves or buckling. These materials very rarely move around, so in theory I can cut the parts in any order. In practice I set up a cutting job to cut from the inside out.

 

For thinner, lighter materials such as paper and greetings card thickness card, I have a second sheet to plywood that I've sprayed with the 3M repositional glue - the same stuff as used on plastic Silhouette mats. This is because the fan located above the laser diodes has a tendency to blow lightweight materials around. The added benefit of this second sheet of plywood is that I can lift it out of the cutter bed to take the parts off it.

 

Cheers

 

Jason

[freebs]

Want!

 

 

[JCL]

Here you go, a test bed for the bogies - a Howlden brake composite as per Nick Campling's drawings (again). Drawn up the same way that I did the diagram 84. In fact this drawing started with the diagram 84 which was then expanded outwards. This means I can keep a consistency within the models where possible such as doors, slot and tab and slot sizes, etc. The ends also seemed to be the same profile - or at least very similar. The coach is this one as far as I can see http://www.vintagecarriagestrust.org/gnr2856.htm .

 

On the bogies, I definitely need to add a thin card layer to represent the flange behind the axleboxes, as the depth of the bearings varies very slightly and juts out slightly on a couple of the axles. I also need to remember to sand or file the edges. You can just about see a bearing jutting out here. The layer containing the brakes is in there now, and I saw that the bolster jutted out to be more or less flush wit the bogies sides, so a v small rectangle of card has been glued in place. When I re-do this, I might be able to amend the file and get them in-line with the wheels. Then they'll all be painted black, so hopefully will look the part. The spike is a cocktail stick that I'm using to locate the bogie centres in the body for now.

 

 

Some of the parts as they come from the cutter. As this is a test, they are from card rather than MDF.

 

Rolling paper around a bamboo skewer and gluing the last inch to create the gas tank. I nearly used plastic here, but decided to keep with the paper/wood theme.

 

The undercarriage as it were. That brake lever arrangement was made of disks of card with slots in them, then the plunger (I know, I've no idea on the terminology) has a bit of glue dabbed onto it before it slides through the middle - keeping everything square. I had a bit of wire to use as a rod, and the brackets have a tab so that they can be seated squarely in slots

 

 

Gratuitous photos...

 

 

... missing a buffer hole.

 

 

Trussing to do, then end of diversion and back to the 6 wheeled 1938 set. I'll come back to this another day.

 

cheers

 

Jason

Edited January 23, 2017 by JCL

[MikeTrice]

Looking good.

[uax6]

With bogie vehicles there is usually two sets of brake gear (one for each bogie), but as this is a test you've probably only drawn one....

 

Looking good. How strong is it?

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Well now, I thought there would be two, but the drawing only has one, on the non-brake end. I was wondering if that had something to do with it, or if it had been left off the drawing. Unfortunately I'm a long way from the prototype to find out, and I haven't found any photos on the internet. :-/

 

In card, it's really strong, partly because the card isn't brittle, and also, I believe, because of the tab and slot build. I dropped it yesterday and it did a lot better than my mobile phone did - which is costing me $149+tax tomorrow.

 

I have a couple of Diagram 3D kits left, so at some point in the future I'm thinking of building them with a home-made card carcass.

 

When I do the next diagram, I'm going to start up a new thread, or reuse an old thread that wasn't going anywhere, and outline in detail its design and then build. It won't be a how to use Inkscape thread though, as Mike's already done that.

Edited January 24, 2017 by JCL

[JCL]

Still on track with the 1938 set. After spending most of today overhauling the cutter, I've just started processing the all 3rd sides and ends to go with the MDF shells I cut at Christmas. Still not in the shed, so my aim is to get these to the same state as the toilet 1st.

 

Anyway, here is the first side.

 

[JCL]

Good evening. I managed to get the cutting finished for the two all 3rds, and this evening started with the glue sniffing.

 

The mdf parts are glued with tacky glue and the paper with spray glue - used sparingly. I tried a lot of different ways to get the layers lined up including jigs, pegs and building squares, but in the end, I found the best way was to slightly bend the layer to be fixed down and touch the middle part of the side, then slowly roll the side down towards each end while doing micro adjustments up and down to keep everything in line.

 

The beading was also rolled on along the length of the side, again adjusting slightly up and down as I went along.

 

To keep them square while drying, the mdf carcasses were placed under a housebrick after I took the photo - the mdf had a slight wave in it, so this will sort that out.

 

The other thing I've done on the card layers is forgo mini tabs around the frame to keep the side in position. I've found that joining the side to the frame along its entire height was much easier. The scored lines at either end of the top panelling layer show where to have at it with a Stanley knife.

 

Anyway, here you go...

 

Edited January 30, 2017 by JCL

[grob1234]

Very impressive, I wish I had CAD skills so I could make stuff too.

[JCL]

Andy G and I are bodgers in arms On the other hand Tom, your C12 is absolutely marvellous. I'll look forward to you starting your coaches!

[grob1234]

Andy G and I are bodgers in arms On the other hand Tom, your C12 is absolutely marvellous. I'll look forward to you starting your coaches!

 

I think bodging is the way forward, though I feel you're rather more than a bodger, looking at what you've made.

 

Thanks for the positive comments on the C12, its a handsome little engine, just awaiting crew and coal and a very light weathering. The bogies for the SJ are made, as are other bits and pieces, I just need to get round to taking pictures!

 

Keep up the great work.

[chris p bacon]

Good evening. I managed to get the cutting finished for the two all 3rds, and this evening started with the glue sniffing.

 

The mdf parts are glued with tacky glue and the paper with spray glue - used sparingly. I tried a lot of different ways to get the layers lined up including jigs, pegs and building squares, but in the end, I found the best way was to slightly bend the layer to be fixed down and touch the middle part of the side, then slowly roll the side down towards each end while doing micro adjustments up and down to keep everything in line.

 

The beading was also rolled on along the length of the side, again adjusting slightly up and down as I went along.

 

To keep them square while drying, the mdf carcasses were placed under a housebrick after I took the photo - the mdf had a slight wave in it, so this will sort that out.

 

The other thing I've done on the card layers is forgo mini tabs around the frame to keep the side in position. I've found that joining the side to the frame along its entire height was much easier. The scored lines at either end of the top panelling layer show where to have at it with a Stanley knife.

 

Anyway, here you go...

 

IMG_3083.JPG

Now you're just showing off.....it's not big...and it's not clever......

 

They're looking good, hopefully I'll have something positive to post on the coach front by the end of the week....then it's back to those A5's....

[JCL]

Well, I'm getting on with it. Here's the basic all 3rd along with the "slab of adjustment" that I used to iron out a wrinkly in the MDF. It looks like its slightly out of alignment, but this is because there's only one end on there at the moment. The buffer beams on the ends are slightly deeper than the solebars to take into account the thickness of the step.

 

 

And these are the four so far together. One end is left off so I can slide the glazing in after it's been painted.

 

 

The single composite and the two full brakes after this.

 

For the life of me I can't find my soldering iron anywhere since the double move, so it looks like I'll be heading down to the electrical store to get another one and some supplies. I'm going to start on the chassis this weekend if I get the time.

Edited January 31, 2017 by JCL

[freebs]

Well, I'm getting on with it. Here's the basic all 3rd along with the "slab of adjustment" that I used to iron out a wrinkly in the MDF. It looks like its slightly out of alignment, but this is because there's only one end on there at the moment. The buffer beams on the ends are slightly deeper than the solebars to take into account the thickness of the step.

 

IMG_8244.JPG

 

And these are the four so far together. One end is left off so I can slide the glazing in after it's been painted.

 

IMG_8242.JPG

 

The single composite and the two full brakes after this.

 

For the life of me I can't find my soldering iron anywhere since the double move, so it looks like I'll be heading down to the electrical store to get another one and some supplies. I'm going to start on the chassis this weekend if I get the time.

 

I think it's the time of year for losing soldering irons. I can't find mine either!!

[JCL]

It's the first time I've been able to unbox properly for about 3 years, and I seem to have 5 hammers, 4 wrenches (not adjustable spanners), 3 drills, 2 sets of drill bits and 1 dog (not such a surprise), but no soldering iron.

Edited February 1, 2017 by JCL

[JCL]

Marvellous, it's Friday! I thought I'd put up a couple of photos. Last night I grabbed a Hornby carriage and a length of track, then I folded up some W-irons stuck them onto the body temporarily using double-sided tape just for this photo and added wheels to get an idea on heights before going too much further.

 

Well, I'm not too far out. I knew the Howlden 45' was going to be slightly too low because the drawing showed that I needed to shim another 1/2mm between the bogies and the body. The 6 wheel carriage is slightly lower, so I'm going to check heights against drawing dimensions to make sure that I haven't missed something. Other than that, I'm pretty pleased.

 

 

 

Also, Mike Trice sent me a smashing photo a while back and said I could use it, but there are so many ways of communicating nowadays I couldn't remember where it went. It's Mike's version of the clerestory van body that I sent him at the end of last year.

 

 

I've been taking loads of photos of the 6 wheel composite I've been putting together, so I'll put them up next week.

[JCL]

Still no soldering iron - or sor-dor as the say here. A weather warning has kept me at home. I'm not so concerned about the show - it's the people still running on summer tyres that worry me. The photo is between my property and the road.

 

 

Instead, I walked down to the Kinsol trestle with my family, and marvelled at how good it looks in the snow

 

 

Later, I bit the bullet and started painting the carriages that are ready for a bit of paint. After a layer of white primer, I painted two coats of Vallejo Light orange.

 

 

Next I did a layer of Sand Brown so that some of the orange showed through - it looks a bit better in real life

 

 

Finally, burnt umber with a bit of burnt Sienna oil paint mixed in with some Liquin for a bit of grain. It's a bit rough compared to Mike's teak tutorial, but I think it'll do the job.

 

 

Gratuitous horribly enlarged photo - a bit more work to do inside.

 

 

Cheers

 

Jason

Edited February 6, 2017 by JCL

[uax6]

That's were I've been going wrong with my teaking, I haven't done the sand brown bit. Mines come out far too orangery. I was so disappointed that I've put them in a box after Mikes Tut, and I haven't seen them since. I'll have to try and find them again and see if I can rectify things. Mine came out looking a right dogs dinner (which would have been all right on a diner, but not a sleeper!)

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Cheers Andy.

 

I'm going to put a little less brown on the next one so I get more orange through, but his works for me.

Edited February 6, 2017 by JCL