RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 23, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2018 Thanks Mike - now to get over to the printer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Just found this: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/27404-gcr-barnum-open-brake-third-coach/&do=findComment&comment=285516 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 23, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 23, 2018 Ha! That's the one I was thinking about. Thankyou. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 24, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2018 Morning everyone Here's where I'm at now. For the prototype roof, yesterday I cut card, dampened it with steam from a pan and used a tea towel to keep it in place as I left it curled around a rolling pin. Then I pretty much used tacky glue to glue it onto the ribs that I showed you on top of the coach the other day. That process gave me the roof in the photo below. If you are asking, the bits at the end are a representation of the water tanks above the toilets. If you're not asking, they are just there to give a bit of strength at the ends and friction fit. Then I added the glazing. This is just transparent sheet cut 13mm wide and the length of the whole of the main part of the coach. You might remember that I left a slot in the cross-walls half way up each side so that I could slide the glazing through. Well blow me but it actually worked and I didn't glue the whole thing up! The photo shows it halfway through sliding the glazing in., and you can just about to see where I've slipped off the extreme ends of the curve at the top so I can slide the roof carcass down onto it. And this is what the coach looks like this evening. I think I could shave a bit off the sides of the roof and it'll look better. Seeing as we seem to be in the middle of monsoon season, I'll have a chance to re-cut the roof parts in MDF tomorrow, and think about what I'm going to do about the surface. I may use card, but I might use sheet plastic instead. The card was OK, but I'm not convinced it won't warp really easily with the paint. Looks like I'm going to have to actually find my soldering iron this weekend. I did try making the handrails with handrail knobs, but they looked hideously overscale, so soldering them up it is. 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted February 14, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2018 Work has taken over again over the last couple of weeks, but I've managed to find a bit of time to put together and annotate the download I promised: This is an image of the layout of the file. The parts are in descending order of thickness, left to right 1.5mm, 1mm and .5mm. In my case the 1.5mm and 1mm parts were MDF. The .5mm was oiled board Mike sent me. These parts could be laminated up, or if you got rid of the tabs, other material could be used. It wouldn't take much for example to get rid of the slots and tabs in the floor and lower strengtheners. Again, if you were using different materials, you could replace the .5mm material with .010" plasticard - which would give a finer finish to the sides. This is the actual file. There are 3 layers: notes cut strokes score strokes All cut strokes are red, all score strokes are cyan Barnum - rebuilt with notes 35.svg If anyone gives it a go, please let me know how you get on. If anyone has a problem with fit, let me know and I'll see what I can do. I've still got a couple of things to finish on the model to finish off, but after 35 drawing iterations, I'm about done. cheers Jason 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 I had a go at printing the carriage on the laser cutter at work. I wanted to try with something that I knew worked. Then if it did not work I knew I was doing something wrong. The cut lines seem to work. But the score lines ....well you can see. Any advice on changing settings appreciated. More speed less power? Many thanks for all this, if I can ever return the favour. Richard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted February 17, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) Hi Richard, try less of both, and with regards to the material, something a bit thicker. If you have a framers in your area, they often have off-cuts of thick card about 1mm thick which they might be happy to get rid of. Failing that, an art shop will have 1mm thick board - you don't need the board for framing as they might have butterboard (I can't remember the UK equivalent word, but it's the board used by architects to make building models). When I did my prototypes, I used some of the card I used for framing pictures, and it had the added bonus of being the correct thickness for slots and tabs. The oiled card is effectively manilla card, and I think Mike got it from Hobby Craft https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/ Edited February 17, 2018 by JCL 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2018 Carrying on, I've managed to find the time to sort out the bogies and buffers for the coach. After using MDF I decided to work them up in Blender and 3D print them. The width of the model was to take a particular wheelset. I thought I had four axles, but it appears I only have two, and I've no idea where I got them from. Does anyone recognise these? The faces don't have holes, and there is the turquoise insulation between the axles and both wheels. I have the bogies already, so as soon as I've put primer on them I'll put them up here. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 20, 2018 Share Posted August 20, 2018 They look like Romford/Jackson Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 20, 2018 Thanks Mike. I think they came from Dave when he was doing the estate sale. They require the two sides to be further apart than the other axles I have, and I'm loathe to not use the second bogie. I'll have a look at getting some. I'll put some photos up tomorrow of the bogies underneath the coach. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted August 20, 2018 Share Posted August 20, 2018 Now that looks like a nice bogie, built upside down on the printer I expect? Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 21, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2018 (edited) Thanks Richard. Luckily I had plenty of photos from my trip to the GCR to help me. I don't have a shop any more, but I can put them up onto Shapeways if anyone is interested. At the moment, this is the back of the bogie side and it includes the bogie springs. I've not dealt with cosmetic sides before, so if the backs need to be flat I could remove the springs and put them on a sprue. These are some of the photos I took on the day. And here's one of the buffers. Edited August 21, 2018 by JCL 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted August 21, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 21, 2018 Don't know why you did all that matchboarding when you could have just done a tarpaulin...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 You may end up with the only accurate version of these bogie side frames in 4mm model form. I've seen three other versions, all with errors or omissions. Will the top flange on the side frame pressing be portrayed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 I think the top flange is present but it cannot be made out in the 3D generated render. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Would be great to be able to access copies of these great looking bogies. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 22, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2018 Hi Richard, that won't be a problem as I'm not looking to make money out of them, or the buffers. As soon as they're done I'm putting them up on Shapeways if anyone just wants to print them, and also on Thingiverse so that people can download them and print them themselves. Here are some photos: The bogie sides in Blender. The whole Barnum side One of the bogies - unfortunately I was a bit heavy handed with the paint - on the print you could see the leaves on the springs and the individual parts of the dampners.. And the buffers are on there as well. cheers Jason 11 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Making the backs of the bogie sides flat would mean you can use them with the MJT bogie (as I have a pair of these to go under a Jidenco vehicle and also a Barnum which would benefit as well). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 22, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2018 That’s what I’ll do, and those springs in the middle I’ll put on a sprue. The axle holes are 2.2mm dia and 2.5mm deep. In the morning I’ll measure and report the length of the bogies to make sure I’ve not introduced any scaling errors while drawing them up. Here’s the primed side only - although it was a reject because it is a bit bent, you can see what the springs are meant to look like. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rail-Online Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 The axleboxes look different - they are not the flat fronted GC type as fitted to the coach? Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 22, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2018 Hi Tony, I should have said, that side in the last photo was the prototype based on a drawing to get the dimensions right. I then changed the axle box after I found my photos, to the flat fronted one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 You are incredibly generous with you design work. I had meant through shapeways, but I can see how my comment might be read. Thingiverse would be great. I can see myself muck up one and being able to quickly print off its replacement. Obviously after the usual cursing. Thanks Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 23, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2018 Hi Richard, No problem at all. I saw on your thread you've done some cutting of the Barnum Brake on the Silhouette - how's that working out for you? It's on Shapeways here: https://www.shapeways.com/product/S4MX32P6W/gcr-barnum-bogie-and-buffers Quick warning - I've only just put it up there and although I've used the sides, I've not ordered a prototype of this configuration. I don't have the appropriate MJT bogie, so I've not been able to offer it up, but measurements I can give are: axle centres: 42mm from top of side to axle centre: 4.4mm overall height: 8.1mm overall length: 64.2mm I'll upload to Thingiverse at the weekend if I have Wifi. I'm heading off to the mainland tomorrow (wildfire country at the moment, so fingers crossed), so won't be around much over the next week. That said, my last bout of modelling posts were in February... cheers Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 The sides and ends have come out, am working in plastic so in order to get the etched lines I am having to complete the cut through lines by hand which has made it a slow progress, but the satisfaction is in the end result. Many thanks for all the effort you have put into these. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 23, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2018 Hi Richard, What thickness did you use for the plastic? I seem to remember the Silhouette can get through 10 thou with enough repititions, but 15 thou and thicker has to be snapped out. Also, it does depend on the brand of plastic. When I did my first version of the Barnum I used 2 x layers of 10 thou laminated together, which meant that I didn't have the problem of cutting out the windows. cheers Jason 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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