ozzyo Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Hello Jonte, one or two daft questions/answers in no particular order. 1) why did you not cut the boiler to length in the flat. 2) why not make some discs that will fit in to the boiler and solder in to position in front of where you may have to cut bits out of the bottom of the boiler. 3) if you think that the boiler tube is under compression, solder a strip of brass along the seam on the inside. It also helps if the background to any photos is plain and non reflective. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Hello Jonte, one or two daft questions/answers in no particular order. 1) why did you not cut the boiler to length in the flat. 2) why not make some discs that will fit in to the boiler and solder in to position in front of where you may have to cut bits out of the bottom of the boiler. 3) if you think that the boiler tube is under compression, solder a strip of brass along the seam on the inside. It also helps if the background to any photos is plain and non reflective. OzzyO. No trouble at all OzzyO, and thanks for your interest. 1) The boiler was cut to length plus 10mm to be lost approx. half way inside the firebox which will be 27mm in length. The sheet was also marked with a scratched in line denoting the point at which the boiler ends and the firebox starts to assist with lining up when fitted. Unfortunatey, the line was lost in the annealing process but it shouldn't be too hard to remark with permanent marker using a square. I may indeed still leave the extra length, as my latest thinking - which also covers point no.2 - is to cut a section from brass as previously mentioned and remove a circle from the inside of it, cut to the o/s diameter of the boiler so that it will in effect be a slide fit onto the boiler. It can then be positioned anywhere in the vicinity of the cut rear section to support it and could, in theory, serve as the front wall of the firebox. The bottom could then be epoxied to the footplate and serve to hold the boiler at the required height above it. 2) Discs as you wisely suggest would be an excellent solution and one which I may yet consider. I suppose though, that my hollowed out 'bulkhead' as described above is along similar lines but with the advantages of forming a firebox wall and saddle. 3) This is linked to your final point about my incompetence with a camera; would have preferred to take in daylight hours but the time of the year put paid to that and well, I was just too impatie to wait for morning. But I take your point, thanks. What some of those shots were supposed to show-and perhaps if I hadn't been so lazy I'd have added some suitable captions to explain - were the soldered joint along the base which consisted of two thin tinned slivers of brass sheet, one soldered outside and the other on the inside, most of the outside being filed off to keep a nice cylindrical shape (one or two cracks were refilled with solder then filed smooth again). As I say, OzzyO, it should be strong enough to hold up the QE2, but I'm just erring on the side of caution, miserable b*gger that I am! Hope that helps, OzzyO, as convoluted as it all may seem, but please feel free to ask again. Best wishes, Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 3) This is linked to your final point about my incompetence with a camera; would have preferred to take in daylight hours but the time of the year put paid to that and well, I was just too impatie to wait for morning. I took some quick photos last night to go in the Wills 1804 Saddle Tank topic, and was really pleased with how they came out. I put the subject on a sheet of white paper over my laptop keyboard, as it was right in front of me and I couldn't be bothered to move! Then I turned on the anglepoise lamp on my desk, which has an 11w CFL in it, and adjusted it to avoid shadows. Then I set my camera to macro and got as close as I could. I discovered the flash was turned on, but that was fine as it lit the subject well, and didn't cause any shadows. The result was some really clear and sharp photos that look great at around double actual size. And I didn't even have to get off my chair! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonte Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 I took some quick photos last night to go in the Wills 1804 Saddle Tank topic, and was really pleased with how they came out. I put the subject on a sheet of white paper over my laptop keyboard, as it was right in front of me and I couldn't be bothered to move! Then I turned on the anglepoise lamp on my desk, which has an 11w CFL in it, and adjusted it to avoid shadows. Then I set my camera to macro and got as close as I could. I discovered the flash was turned on, but that was fine as it lit the subject well, and didn't cause any shadows. The result was some really clear and sharp photos that look great at around double actual size. And I didn't even have to get off my chair! Now that's my kind of photography, BG John. Also got a couple of anglepoises. So it's camera, lights, action!! Thanks for the tip. Think I'll add photography to my CV to go with my other competencies which include switching a computer on & off and copy and pasting without glue 'n' scissors. Regards, Jonte Jonte Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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