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Wright writes.....


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So drivers actually respond to these lights when driving a car? Hmmmm.....show me some.

 

Stewart

Round here it's red = stop, green = go and amber = go faster.

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Round here roundabouts are the scary bit. You always stop even if you have right of way because there is absolutely no way of telling what the locals will do, even if they indicate it might as well be pointing upwards!

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Round here it's red = stop, green = go and amber = go faster.

Alright for those who reckon it's a laughing matter until you get nailed.

Light turns yellow, so you put your foot down to ensure that you don't cross the sensors if it turns red and lo and behold, the integrated speed camera nails you for exceeding the speed limit.

Meanwhile 1 demerit point and $197 later.......

How do I know.....paid the bill a couple of weeks back.....mutter, mutter, mutter

 

Khris

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Thanks for the replies regarding the point rodding, Here is a better shot. Another question, which I think I know the answer to but will put it to the experts.

 

As the rodding goes from 8 abreast (or however many) down to one. Does each bracket get smaller?

 

 

 

post-27-0-93089400-1495369954_thumb.jpg

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I took my copy of Jack Nelson's LNWR Portrayed to the beach this morning and re-read the chapters on signaling.  What a wonderful compendium of drawings.  But now I need the GWR equivalents for Penmaenpool - is there a book out there that can help?

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It's probably been said a hundred times but the look and flow of that trackwork is magnificent. :good: Everything else is an add on.

I think you're right, Robin, and it does help if one gets the very best to make and lay it (Norman Solomon). And, it's only OO!

 

All I'd qualify is that that trackwork is laid on a base as good as any one will find, built by Norman Turner (a retired carpentry lecturer). That, and the fact that I insist that every locomotive and item of rolling stock is built to work 'perfectly' and be fully capable of doing in model form what its prototype could do. Hence my insistence on their being made. 

 

I think a nod to the architectural modelling, scenic modelling and signal modelling helps as well. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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On the topic of traffic lights, when I worked in Eastern Venzuela the traffic light rule was simple. After the lights turn to red, six vehicles will continue to cross the intersection. My driver (I was not allowed to drive!) and I joked about it by always counting to six after our light had turned to green. This inevitably lead to a cacophony of horns from behind. The worst aspect of working in Maturin, though, was I never saw a railway the whole time I was there.

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Point rodding...track formations...when modelling an actual location ... If modelling it a a very specific time....as Tony has done with LB you can record it exactly. In my case, if you model a location...Water Orton, but have a flexible time scale 1950 to pre tops 1974....(.and even then class 56 and 58 make an appearanc)

.Water orton east junction was created in 1908 when new fast lines were laid between that point and Kingsbury. It was controlled by a traditional midland box titled Water Orton station junction in British Railways days. In 1961... On Boxing Day that year I believe...a freight train derailment caused such damage which necessitated the replacement of the box by a BR standard design signed Water Orton East Junction. The two boxes existed side by side for a short period as recorded in August 62..the point,.no pun intended.....the rodding was different. It was further complicated in 69,when the manual east box was decommissioned in favour of the main box at Saltley. This coincided with the he refuge siding on the slow lines being removed and the crossover from the fast to slow lines being moved closer to the station. I have modelled both boxes...but cannot create the rodding as it will be different for each box when in situ.....and yes a cop out...because if I had the means to outsource this modelling activity by way of cheque book....I certainly would

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Thanks for the replies regarding the point rodding, Here is a better shot. Another question, which I think I know the answer to but will put it to the experts.

As the rodding goes from 8 abreast (or however many) down to one. Does each bracket get smaller?

attachicon.gifIMG_7151.JPG

In all the applications I've seen, Michael, as one rod is dropped, to work a point, then the the number of stools (bracket?) is reduced to fit the remaining rods, down eventually to one.

Having said that, I suppose it is is possible that if a point was removed at a later time ie mid run, then the stools could have been left in place.

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 Re the point rodding.

Maybe suffering the overscale stuff is the way to go on a large layout viewed from a distance, as LB is, might the "scale" version be too spidery?

 

Mike.

You could have a point (horrid pun!), Mike. After all I live with over-scale wheel treads and flanges (and make do with an under-scale gauge).

 

However, in answer to your specific question, my answer is no.  

 

post-18225-0-45038400-1495449164_thumb.jpg

 

post-18225-0-34327100-1495449167_thumb.jpg

 

post-18225-0-36265700-1495449168.jpg

 

post-18225-0-97706200-1495449168_thumb.jpg

 

post-18225-0-66914900-1495449169_thumb.jpg

 

I had a look at a bit of the Wills product and reckon it would be nearer twice the size (in scale) of the rodding in these prototype shots. 

 

Edited to clarify a point.

Edited by Tony Wright
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Good news for 7mm scale!

I think you might be right, Paul. 

 

Someone had measured it up and said it would suit 7mm very well, and certainly S. 

 

So, as you say, good news for 7mm scale, even if it's a tiny bit small. 

 

The rodding shots I showed of LB are, in fairness, the 'thinnest' at the place. The longer runs towards the north end appear to be more substantial (though nowhere near as big (in scale) as the rodding in question. In fact, as The Stationmaster has noted in an earlier post (some time ago), what I showed might well have been older, round-section rodding. 

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This is great stuff, thanks for posting, Mike. 

 

I don't know if you've mentioned it before, but what is the origin of the kit, please?

Evening Tony,

     Sorry I have not replied before but have been away for a week, on a barge on the Leeds & Liverpool canal,no internet!. The kit is by Studio Scale Models owned by Des Sullivan and has several kits for Irish prototypes

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Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER

Morning all, 

 

so what is the best product to use or best method to make point rodding for 4mm?

Jesse

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You could have a point (horrid pun!), Mike. After all I live with over-scale wheel treads and flanges (and make do with an under-scale gauge).

 

However, in answer to your specific question, my answer is no.  

 

attachicon.gifGN 135 - 60067 Little Bytham 01 18.08 1962 small.jpg

 

attachicon.gifGN 178 - 60049 Little Bytham 11.08 1962 small.jpg

 

attachicon.gifJM1 74 03 small.jpg

 

attachicon.gifsouth end rodding detail.jpg

 

attachicon.gifWA-4 Tees-Tyne @ LB.jpg

 

I had a look at a bit of the Wills product and reckon it would be nearer twice the size (in scale) of the rodding in these prototype shots. 

 

Edited to clarify a point.

In the last photo what is the 'additional' rail (if it is actually rail) on the line bottom left? Is it some sort of trap? Thanks.

Phil

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Here's two pics of Wills rodding, out of the bag and with a simple black wash. Note no ballast applied yet, so far from complete, the ballast and ground texture will cover some of the base of the rodding as well as making the track 'sit' right.

post-68-0-75443200-1495565304_thumb.jpg

Before wash

 

post-68-0-46347200-1495565369_thumb.jpg

After wash.

 

My initial thoughts are it looks better than none, but too chunky, you couldn't mix manufacturers products without it looking odd, where you can mix and match the etched varieties.

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My initial thoughts are it looks better than none, but too chunky, you couldn't mix manufacturers products without it looking odd, where you can mix and match the etched varieties.

 

 

It's a shame it's too chunky because otherwise that FPL looks very good.

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