stewartingram Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 I know, but it's a lot more than responding to 'red, amber and green' that we are used to when driving a car.... So drivers actually respond to these lights when driving a car? Hmmmm.....show me some. Stewart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted May 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 21, 2017 So drivers actually respond to these lights when driving a car? Hmmmm.....show me some. Stewart Round here it's red = stop, green = go and amber = go faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mullie Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Round here roundabouts are the scary bit. You always stop even if you have right of way because there is absolutely no way of telling what the locals will do, even if they indicate it might as well be pointing upwards! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandc_au Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Round here it's red = stop, green = go and amber = go faster. Alright for those who reckon it's a laughing matter until you get nailed. Light turns yellow, so you put your foot down to ensure that you don't cross the sensors if it turns red and lo and behold, the integrated speed camera nails you for exceeding the speed limit. Meanwhile 1 demerit point and $197 later....... How do I know.....paid the bill a couple of weeks back.....mutter, mutter, mutter Khris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Delamar Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Thanks for the replies regarding the point rodding, Here is a better shot. Another question, which I think I know the answer to but will put it to the experts. As the rodding goes from 8 abreast (or however many) down to one. Does each bracket get smaller? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted May 21, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 21, 2017 (edited) Many thanks for all the pictures and comments regarding point rodding recently. I'm more and more convinced (in the case of my layout) of the merit of the sketch-book or impressionist approach to point rodding. I've just installed some more, including just strips of the plastic square section more or less where the final metal bits (in the six-foot) will go. I think the eye just 'reads' these as point rodding, and, in the overall scheme, that's all I want to convey. The concrete blocks/wooden balks on which the cranks stand are just pieces of flat brass section, with the cranks soldered to them, a piece of .33 brass wire acting as the 'pivot' (even if everything is soldered solid). Again, the eye is tricked into thinking the blocks are buried in the ballast, when, in fact, they just rest on top (in a tiny, scratched-out recess), superglued down. Edited May 21, 2017 by Tony Wright 21 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted May 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 21, 2017 It's probably been said a hundred times but the look and flow of that trackwork is magnificent. Everything else is an add on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focalplane Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 I took my copy of Jack Nelson's LNWR Portrayed to the beach this morning and re-read the chapters on signaling. What a wonderful compendium of drawings. But now I need the GWR equivalents for Penmaenpool - is there a book out there that can help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 It's probably been said a hundred times but the look and flow of that trackwork is magnificent. Everything else is an add on. I think you're right, Robin, and it does help if one gets the very best to make and lay it (Norman Solomon). And, it's only OO! All I'd qualify is that that trackwork is laid on a base as good as any one will find, built by Norman Turner (a retired carpentry lecturer). That, and the fact that I insist that every locomotive and item of rolling stock is built to work 'perfectly' and be fully capable of doing in model form what its prototype could do. Hence my insistence on their being made. I think a nod to the architectural modelling, scenic modelling and signal modelling helps as well. Regards, Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted May 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 21, 2017 Re the point rodding. Maybe suffering the overscale stuff is the way to go on a large layout viewed from a distance, as LB is, might the "scale" version be too spidery? Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focalplane Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 On the topic of traffic lights, when I worked in Eastern Venzuela the traffic light rule was simple. After the lights turn to red, six vehicles will continue to cross the intersection. My driver (I was not allowed to drive!) and I joked about it by always counting to six after our light had turned to green. This inevitably lead to a cacophony of horns from behind. The worst aspect of working in Maturin, though, was I never saw a railway the whole time I was there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leander Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 I took my copy of Jack Nelson's LNWR Portrayed to the beach this morning and re-read the chapters on signaling. What a wonderful compendium of drawings. But now I need the GWR equivalents for Penmaenpool - is there a book out there that can help? Start here: http://www.s-r-s.org.uk/html/gwu/S3279.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Point rodding...track formations...when modelling an actual location ... If modelling it a a very specific time....as Tony has done with LB you can record it exactly. In my case, if you model a location...Water Orton, but have a flexible time scale 1950 to pre tops 1974....(.and even then class 56 and 58 make an appearanc) .Water orton east junction was created in 1908 when new fast lines were laid between that point and Kingsbury. It was controlled by a traditional midland box titled Water Orton station junction in British Railways days. In 1961... On Boxing Day that year I believe...a freight train derailment caused such damage which necessitated the replacement of the box by a BR standard design signed Water Orton East Junction. The two boxes existed side by side for a short period as recorded in August 62..the point,.no pun intended.....the rodding was different. It was further complicated in 69,when the manual east box was decommissioned in favour of the main box at Saltley. This coincided with the he refuge siding on the slow lines being removed and the crossover from the fast to slow lines being moved closer to the station. I have modelled both boxes...but cannot create the rodding as it will be different for each box when in situ.....and yes a cop out...because if I had the means to outsource this modelling activity by way of cheque book....I certainly would Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Roger Sunderland Posted May 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2017 Thanks for the replies regarding the point rodding, Here is a better shot. Another question, which I think I know the answer to but will put it to the experts. As the rodding goes from 8 abreast (or however many) down to one. Does each bracket get smaller? IMG_7151.JPG In all the applications I've seen, Michael, as one rod is dropped, to work a point, then the the number of stools (bracket?) is reduced to fit the remaining rods, down eventually to one. Having said that, I suppose it is is possible that if a point was removed at a later time ie mid run, then the stools could have been left in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 (edited) Re the point rodding. Maybe suffering the overscale stuff is the way to go on a large layout viewed from a distance, as LB is, might the "scale" version be too spidery? Mike. You could have a point (horrid pun!), Mike. After all I live with over-scale wheel treads and flanges (and make do with an under-scale gauge). However, in answer to your specific question, my answer is no. I had a look at a bit of the Wills product and reckon it would be nearer twice the size (in scale) of the rodding in these prototype shots. Edited to clarify a point. Edited May 22, 2017 by Tony Wright 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focalplane Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 I had a look at a bit of the Wills product and reckon it would be over twice the size (in scale) of the rodding in these prototype shots. Good news for 7mm scale! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 Good news for 7mm scale! I think you might be right, Paul. Someone had measured it up and said it would suit 7mm very well, and certainly S. So, as you say, good news for 7mm scale, even if it's a tiny bit small. The rodding shots I showed of LB are, in fairness, the 'thinnest' at the place. The longer runs towards the north end appear to be more substantial (though nowhere near as big (in scale) as the rodding in question. In fact, as The Stationmaster has noted in an earlier post (some time ago), what I showed might well have been older, round-section rodding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 84C Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 This is great stuff, thanks for posting, Mike. I don't know if you've mentioned it before, but what is the origin of the kit, please? Evening Tony, Sorry I have not replied before but have been away for a week, on a barge on the Leeds & Liverpool canal,no internet!. The kit is by Studio Scale Models owned by Des Sullivan and has several kits for Irish prototypes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Brighton_JunctionLNER Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Morning all, so what is the best product to use or best method to make point rodding for 4mm?Jesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted May 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2017 You could have a point (horrid pun!), Mike. After all I live with over-scale wheel treads and flanges (and make do with an under-scale gauge). However, in answer to your specific question, my answer is no. GN 135 - 60067 Little Bytham 01 18.08 1962 small.jpg GN 178 - 60049 Little Bytham 11.08 1962 small.jpg JM1 74 03 small.jpg south end rodding detail.jpg WA-4 Tees-Tyne @ LB.jpg I had a look at a bit of the Wills product and reckon it would be nearer twice the size (in scale) of the rodding in these prototype shots. Edited to clarify a point. In the last photo what is the 'additional' rail (if it is actually rail) on the line bottom left? Is it some sort of trap? Thanks. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacko Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 looks to me like rails that have been removed / replaced then left in-situ. Quite a common sight. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted May 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2017 Here's two pics of Wills rodding, out of the bag and with a simple black wash. Note no ballast applied yet, so far from complete, the ballast and ground texture will cover some of the base of the rodding as well as making the track 'sit' right. Before wash After wash. My initial thoughts are it looks better than none, but too chunky, you couldn't mix manufacturers products without it looking odd, where you can mix and match the etched varieties. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TrevorP1 Posted May 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2017 My initial thoughts are it looks better than none, but too chunky, you couldn't mix manufacturers products without it looking odd, where you can mix and match the etched varieties. It's a shame it's too chunky because otherwise that FPL looks very good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 In the last photo what is the 'additional' rail (if it is actually rail) on the line bottom left? Is it some sort of trap? Thanks. Phil Phil, As Jacko has said, it's old rail which has been replaced and is awaiting removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted May 23, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) It's always huge fun when mates come round to operate LB. It's even more rewarding when some of them come from the other side of the World, in this case, Australia. I left this merry band of men to their own devices this afternoon (abstracting myself, of course) while I processed pictures and they ran trains. Thanks for a great day, chaps - from left to right - Mel, John (England), Andrew (from Australia), George (England), Peter and Gavin (from Australia). That's what real railway modelling is about to me - a group of good friends 'playing trains'. Edited May 23, 2017 by Tony Wright 26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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