Wright writes.....

[manna]

G'Day Gents

 

When are we going to get some real steel loco/coach kits so I can 'Weld' them together ????????????

 

manna

[Bernard Lamb]

G'Day Gents

 

When are we going to get some real steel loco/coach kits so I can 'Weld' them together ????????????

 

manna

There is one floating about.

I think it goes under the name of Tornado.

Bernard

[stewartingram]

Unfortunately, I can't. 

 

If you 1) hammer nails into the wood, & 2) drill the aluminium, then insert copper rivets, you can solder the nails to the rivets. Simple!

 

Stewart

[Tony Teague]

" stuck together with the likes of UHU, Bostik or Evo-Stik. With regard to the last mentioned, at least 40 years ago I built some BSL kits for Thompson carriages. Because the sides and floor pan were made of aluminium, and the roofs made of wood, I had to glue these together, with Evo Stik. The bogies and underframe detail were soldered together (the latter attached to the floor pan with glue). Guess what? Over the years some of the sides have 'sprung', and roofs have lifted. Yet, all the soldered components are still as good as new. "

 

Tony: Can you please tell me the solder and flux to solder Wood to Aluminium and thus prevent the deterioration of the glued joint most of us would be forced to use?

 

CAT 

Have you tried thick porridge?

[Atso]

There is one floating about.

I think it goes under the name of Tornado.

Bernard

 

I've seen that kit and have to say I'm very impressed with how well it has been assembled. However, I'm very much looking forward to the follow up kit, as I think that it will be even more impressive. I think that one is going to be branded 'Prince of Wales'...

[Jol Wilkinson]

" stuck together with the likes of UHU, Bostik or Evo-Stik. With regard to the last mentioned, at least 40 years ago I built some BSL kits for Thompson carriages. Because the sides and floor pan were made of aluminium, and the roofs made of wood, I had to glue these together, with Evo Stik. The bogies and underframe detail were soldered together (the latter attached to the floor pan with glue). Guess what? Over the years some of the sides have 'sprung', and roofs have lifted. Yet, all the soldered components are still as good as new. "

 

Tony: Can you please tell me the solder and flux to solder Wood to Aluminium and thus prevent the deterioration of the glued joint most of us would be forced to use?

 

CAT 

With dissimilar materials it can be worth thinking "outside the box"  and using a mechanical fixing. I have fitted wood or resin roofs to carriages using small screws from this company,

 

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/index2.htm

 

I have also fitted plastic roofs to etched carriages simply using double sided sticky tape. If it gives out after twenty or more years (it has only happened on a couple of carriages) simply clean off the old tape using cigarette lighter fluid and do it again.

[D.Platt]

. Morning Tony, Better late than never I just want to say how much I enjoyed speaking to you at Wigan and picking your brain regarding the B16s ,throught I would show you my DJH 9F but I'am sure your new build will be a beautiful model when finished. Noticed a few pages back Kieran wanting details of Leeds Central, I have the Xpress Publishing on Leeds Central 1957 winter time table brilliant book with loads of information. Dennis

[Tony Wright]

Thank you Tony,

 

For metal, I too now prefer soldering but that wasn't the case until earlier this year when I finally found the techniques (dark secrets?) to making a successful joint. I have since employed this skill to assemble several etched van kits and 2mm Association chassis (some of which you've seen). I've even managed to solder white metal now which for some strange reason I had a massive fear of and I really don't know how I got on without being able to solder.

 

However others haven't managed to gain the knack for soldering yet and, as Roy (who you met a couple of weeks ago) has proven with his own test build (interesting you've both picked the same day to do this), the waiting room can be glued together for those not ready to have a go with soldering.

Thanks Steve,

 

I completed your model this morning. The only additions I've made consist of a chimney (brass rod) and two downspouts under the canopy (15Amp fusewire). 

 

 

 

My congratulations on producing a beautiful little etched kit. Are you considering producing it in different scales? I'm sure a 4mm version would sell well. 

 

If you wish to use any of the pictures, then, please, be my guest. 

[Barry O]

Why did DJH fit the cylinders to all of their BR Standards too far out from the chassis? I am just building a de-Crosti'd 9F. You can see on the cylinder castings where they fitted an extension piece.. thank goodness for a Dremel end cutter!

 

Baz

[gr.king]

Allowance for steam-roller wheelsets with enough side-play for 14 inch radius trainset curves?

Edited October 9, 2017 by gr.king

[Tony Wright]

IMG_0062.JPG. Morning Tony, Better late than never I just want to say how much I enjoyed speaking to you at Wigan and picking your brain regarding the B16s ,throught I would show you my DJH 9F but I'am sure your new build will be a beautiful model when finished. Noticed a few pages back Kieran wanting details of Leeds Central, I have the Xpress Publishing on Leeds Central 1957 winter time table brilliant book with loads of information. Dennis

IMG_0062.JPG

A most-natural looking loco, Dennis. 

 

My compliments.

 

Just one suggestion, if I may? BR Standards had nine-spoke bogie/pony wheels (like the LMS Pacifics). It does make a difference. 

[Lecorbusier]

steam-roller wheelsets 

a little provocative me thinks?    .... duck while we await some P4 bashing in return 

[D.Platt]

I know you always pick up on the bogie wheels ,must admit to just using Romford/Jackson but now you have pointed it out well !!! I suppose the the same applies to all my DJH standards? Dennis

[D.Platt]

Regarding the cylinders on DJH kits I've never had any problems with their appearance to my old eyes they look right ,and my locos are built to go round my three foot radius curves,if you are able to have larger radius like any kit you can make them to suit your own requirements

[blueeighties]

On the subject off DCC and all things electro-trickery, here are a couple of shots of a batch of 7mm class 37s I have just started. Don't worry, a hammer, chisels, and hacksaws were all gainfully employed as well as small screwdrivers 

 

37 chassis a by rothburyuk, on Flickr

 

37 chassis b by rothburyuk, on Flickr

[Mallard60022]

G'Day Gents

 

When are we going to get some real steel loco/coach kits so I can 'Weld' them together ????????????

 

manna

Tornado is finished but they are building a Mikado so you could ask them if you might join in.

A. 1. Trussed

[C.A.T.Ford]

Have you tried thick porridge?

I once bought a Radley Met. BoBo kit which some poor person had attempted to glue together with P,V,A, The resultant splodges of glue closely resembled thick porridge. It took a couple of hours to clean up mainly by peeling thick strips of P.V.A. off, but made up well using Solder where appropriate or glue (Not P.V.A. or superglue) where glue needed to be used.

 

You may think that the person who tried to use P.V.A. was a loony but I prefer to think they were Naive and lacked a source to indicate the correct way forward. At least they bought a kit and had a go instead of sitting there croaking "I can't do that"and never trying.

 

CAT  

[Tony Wright]

I know you always pick up on the bogie wheels ,must admit to just using Romford/Jackson but now you have pointed it out well !!! I suppose the the same applies to all my DJH standards? Dennis

Dennis,

 

I don't employ pick-ups on bogies as a rule, unless the loco is destined for a layout with dead-frog points. Then, I'll also pick-up off the tender (if it has one) as well. 

 

Usually, because I normally employ a live chassis, then I make all the other wheels on the live side 'live' as well. That means that the (insulated) drivers pick-up on one side and all the wheels on the other side return the current. It works very well. 

 

 

This is the pick-up arrangement for the 9F I'm currently building. Because of other things, since Wigan all I've added are the boiler handrails and the balance weights. Having ten wheels to pick-up and return, I've not bothered making the pony live, nor any of the tender wheels. 

[Tony Wright]

At least they bought a kit and had a go instead of sitting there croaking "I can't do that"and never trying.

 

CAT  

I don't thing anyone in that latter category reads this thread. 

 

I'm glad you made a good job of resurrecting a poorly-made kit. There is a great satisfaction in doing that, especially, as in my case, they can often be picked up for very little. 

 

Keep up the good work. 

[D.Platt]

Hi Tony, What I was trying to say regarding bogie wheels is that they are an item which you regularly make comments on , obviously one of the first things you look for, I like the very neat pick ups on your 9F it's coming along superbly. Dennis

[Wibble]

I've been following this thread on a regular basis, and consider it a forum within a forum, mostly with interesting and informative comments in the world of model trains. The subject matter is quite diverse, and although I've just been lurking in the background, thought it worth adding to.

 

Recent topics have touched on the methods of construction, and in particular that of steam locos, which tend to have 2 dimensional shapes (apart from the boiler, cladding and associated profiles), whereas diesels feature a host of compond curves and angles which make them so much more difficult to produce in model form. My view is that the 'modern' railway modeller is well catered for in terms of rolling stock, with only a small percentage of kit built stock to contend with, and in most cases the additional requirements are met in the form of plastic kits and the use of modern polymers to achieve a desired result.

 

Go back a couple of generations (from where I'm modelling the 1970s), to the last knockings of the steam era, you will probably find that for decent haulage capabilities and for the variety of stock, then kit built is the best way forward. Whitemetal and brass components form the majority of materials used, and to construct these items, skill is certainly required on the part of the builder. Go back even further to pre-grouping for example, and the range of RTR is even rarer, so for the majority of rolling stock projects, almost everything (apart from the very few) is kit built. Just my observations, but stand to be corrected.

 

In view of my ramblings above, the skills of the kit builder / kit basher have changed over the decades to produce a finished item, and as much as the real railway scene has changed, so have the techniques of the model maker. I've rarely soldered a rolling stock kit together, because I've not had the need to - with the exception of perhaps a couple of shunting locos (which bear a close resemblance to a steam engine with its coupled wheels). With tens of thousands of soldering applications under my belt, it seems not so much a case of competence, but more a case of what we're trying to achieve in relation to the era we model.

 

I admire the skills of the modellers that produce such exquisite and functional items of mid-20^th century rolling stock, in a similar way to the modern day kit bashers with their selection of glues, fillers and finishing touches. Just to finish off this post, I've rarely seen a kit-built diesel look anything like it's supposed to, so my era of interest is dictated by what's available and by the materials it is made of....... and I haven't even touched on the subject of photography, DCC, and gauge!

 

Happy modelling chaps and chapesses.

Edited October 13, 2017 by Wibble

[Lecorbusier]

I've been following this thread on a regular basis, and consider it a forum within a forum, mostly with interesting and informative comments in the world of model trains. The subject matter is quite diverse, and although I've just been lurking in the background, thought it worth adding to.

 

Recent topics have touched on the methods of construction, and in particular that of kettles – I make no apologies for my terminology (with diesels often being referred by some as boxes on wheels). Kettles to me tend to have 2 dimensional shapes (apart from the boiler, cladding and associated profiles), whereas diesels feature a host of compond curves and angles which make them so much more difficult to produce in model form. My view is that the 'modern' railway modeller is well catered for in terms of rolling stock, with only a small percentage of kit built stock to contend with, and in most cases the additional requirements are met in the form of plastic kits and the use of modern polymers to achieve a desired result.

 

Go back a couple of generations (from where I'm modelling the 1970s), to the last knockings of the steam era, you will probably find that for decent haulage capabilities and for the variety of stock, then kit built is the best way forward. Whitemetal and brass components form the majority of materials used, and to construct these items, skill is certainly required on the part of the builder. Go back even further to pre-grouping for example, and the range of RTR is even rarer, so for the majority of rolling stock projects, almost everything (apart from the very few) is kit built. Just my observations, but stand to be corrected.

 

In view of my ramblings above, the skills of the kit builder / kit basher have changed over the decades to produce a finished item, and as much as the real railway scene has changed, so have the techniques of the model maker. I've rarely soldered a rolling stock kit together, because I've not had the need to - with the exception of perhaps a couple of shunting locos (which bear a close resemblance to a kettle with its coupled wheels). With tens of thousands of soldering applications (electrical) under my belt, it seems not so much a case of competence, but more a case of what we're trying to achieve in relation to the era we model.

 

I admire the skills of the modellers that produce such exquisite and functional items of mid-20^th century rolling stock, in a similar way to the modern day kit bashers with their selection of glues, fillers and finishing touches. Just to finish off this post, I've rarely seen a kit-built diesel look anything like it's supposed to, so my era of interest is dictated by what's available and by the materials it is made of....... and I haven't even touched on the subject of photography, DCC, and gauge!

 

Happy modelling chaps and chapesses.

Just spent a happy 10 mins perusing the EM gauge 70s general layout gallery via your link .... absolutely stunning in my opinion.

[Barry Ten]

After a couple of weeks abroad I've got back into modelling this week by continuing work on my bow-ended Ocean Mails coach, seen here in the company of the two Collett 70 foot coaches I built a year or two ago.

 

 

 

 

This was a bit easier than the others as the kit doesn't require an interior, and the droplights are already etched into the body side, saving an evening's worth of soldering. I've heard it said that the Ocean Mails vans are a bit of a GWR modeller's cliche but I've always fancied one and although it won't be marshalled into an accurate Ocean Mails formation, it'll add a nice bit of "bling" to some of my trains.

 

Ultimately I'd like to be replace the fixed buffers with sprung varieties to permit a degree of close coupling.

 

Re: soldering - I feared it for years and still approach it with some trepidation as there are still days when it doesn't go as well as hoped, but I can just about soldier through when the materials demand it, as here.

 

Alastair

 

[Atso]

Thanks Steve,

 

I completed your model this morning. The only additions I've made consist of a chimney (brass rod) and two downspouts under the canopy (15Amp fusewire). 

 

My congratulations on producing a beautiful little etched kit. Are you considering producing it in different scales? I'm sure a 4mm version would sell well. 

 

If you wish to use any of the pictures, then, please, be my guest. 

 

Thank you once again Tony for test building this kit and your kind comments on it, it is most appreciated. 

 

The production version will have a chimney included as a 3D print but the downspouts will have to be made by the modeller out of fusewire, as you've used, or similar - I use guitar wire for most things like this.

 

At present I am not considering other scales (sticking with what I know for the time being) but it is not something I wouldn't rule it out for any item in the future if the interest is there.

 

Once again thank you and I will be taking up your most kind offer to use the photographs (appropriately credited of course).

[2750Papyrus]

Thank you once again Tony for test building this kit and your kind comments on it, it is most appreciated. 

 

The production version will have a chimney included as a 3D print but the downspouts will have to be made by the modeller out of fusewire, as you've used, or similar - I use guitar wire for most things like this.

 

At present I am not considering other scales (sticking with what I know for the time being) but it is not something I wouldn't rule it out for any item in the future if the interest is there.

 

Once again thank you and I will be taking up your most kind offer to use the photographs (appropriately credited of course).

 

I would echo Tony's suggestion for a 4mm version and would certainly be interested should you produce it.