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They were painted on especially for the event, as the Sentinels the quarry used to have were painted that way.

 

We had to add a small black triangle to the bottom of the wasp striping on the second day, as one picky photographer commented on its inaccuracy!

 

I'll admit it's not my cup of tea either, looks a bit OTT

 

 

Paul A.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm a little bit late to the party, but that S15 is absolutely fantastic!

Thank you Jack P. Unfortunatly it is still in its box awaiting some good weather to get the primer on it. Not this week!!! :no:

 

Regards

Sandy

Edited by Sandy Harper
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I was a bit delayed in assembling the motor/gearbox to the chassis as I was waiting for some nylon 3/16" bearings to arrive.

 

These bearings are needed to insulate the gearbox sides from the split axle. You may recall from earlier posts that the axle, with the gearbox on it, requires two Z cuts but there is not enough room to have them both outside the area of the axle covered by the full width of the gear box sides. Hence the need to use insulated bearings. I obtained mine from Brian Clapperton at ABC Gearboxes and had previously used them on my 'Gordon Castle' split chassis build. He supplies insulated bearings as an alternative to the normal brass bearings. You just have to ask when ordering your motor gearbox.

 

When building a 0-4-0 it is essential that all four wheels pick up.

 

A piece of copper-clad 'Vero' board was glued to the side of the can motor to make the connections for current  transfer to the motor from the chassis sides via a DCC chip and keep the wiring as tidy as possible.

 

This combination of gearbox and motor is a neat fit inside the bonnet of the locomotive and doesn't require any additional restraining.

 

I have had it running-in for about an hour in each direction on the rolling road, at various speeds, and it will now crawl along a length of track on the '001' speed setting of my NCE controller.

 

I managed to get some primer on the body a few days ago, just before the recent bout of cold weather, but a top coat could be a few weeks away yet!

 

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post-7733-0-19773300-1364290990_thumb.jpg

 

 

Regards

 

Sandy

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Jack,

Thank you. The colour came out of my paint selection, Humbrol Gloss, Why I had it, I don't know?

It very closely matches a photograph I was given of a preserved Sentinel painted in green on a railway in Lincolnshire. In model form the loco is representing a contractors loco on an industrial site.

From a friend who worked at the Sentinel factory in Shrewsbury, the large vents were needed due to the intense heat in the cab from the vertical boiler.

 

post-7733-0-99475900-1367564394_thumb.jpg

 

 

Regards

Sandy

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Next up on the workbench is another offering from North Star Design, a Southern Schools 4-4-0.

 

This one will be fitted with AGH wheels powered by a Pittman motor attached to an ABC gearbox.

 

It will be finished in Southern, lined, livery as No. 928 'STOWE'.

 

Regards

 

Sandy

 

 

post-7733-0-63719500-1367600368_thumb.jpg

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Hi Sandy,

Why the Pitmann motor? Are you using up stuff you have in stock?

Best,

John

Hi John

The kit was bought some time ago by the owner which is why the Pittman was included with the kit when I received it. It looks to be a very well built item (American I think)

Regards

Sandy

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Hi Sandy

The S15 looks great I keep meaning to build a Urie one and a H15 prior to smoke defectors being  fitted. I thing thIs series of 4-6-0s are hansom brutes.

I also look forward to following the schools build, again one of my favorite locos.

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I have started on the Schools tender chassis. As per my usual method of pickup it will be tender only with a split chassis and split axles. The chassis was built as normal using the spacers supplied and the bearings inserted. The centre bearings will be sprung and have vertical movement both above and below the axle centre line datum.

 

Once the chassis is built, I cut a series of Perspex spacers to fit neatly between the frames and glue them to the underside of the original spacers. Once the glue has dried I drill and tap through the original spacers and the new Perspex spacers and secure them with 8BA bolts. To complete the insulation the original spacers are cut through with a slitting disc.

 

Next job is the brake gear. This also needs to be insulated and here I glued plastic to the cross beams and again cut through the N/S of the cross beam and filled the gap with Araldite.

 

The chassis is fitted temporarily with some spare wheels until the correct ones arrive from Walsall. I will then carry out the axle splitting exercise to insulate them.

 

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This is my method of springing that I stole from Ken (Jazz) on this site. Very simple and effective.

post-7733-0-91475700-1368039837.jpg

Edited by Sandy Harper
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