Jack P Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 There's something about the 2P that's extremely appealing. Nice work sandy! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 There's something about the 2P that's extremely appealing. Nice work sandy! Thanks Jack. I think that the early BR liver looked good on them. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Thanks Jack. I think that the early BR liver looked good on them. Sandy What sort of liver? Ox, pig or lambs? Sorry. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 What sort of liver? Ox, pig or lambs? Sorry. OzzyO. ARGHHH! Bloody computers!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) As you will see from the title the next build is underway whilst the Dukedog gets its final touches applied. I will post pictures when all the glue and paint and varnish has dried. So, to the Radial. This will be similar to the previous build of this prototype and again it is a Roxy Mouldings mixed metal kit. The chassis is N/S and the body white metal castings. It will be finished as per the Bluebell version in Adams light green livery. It will also have a split, insulated chassis, so no nasty plungers to deal with and will be DCC controlled. AS with all my kits, the first job to do is the coupling rods. Having cut them from the fret I just trim off the tabs line up the layers, in this case two, and clamp them in the vice. Use plenty of flux, I use Copalux, a plumbers paste flux that will not turn green, unless you leave it on the model for a few days, and is easily washed off in water, and apply solder to the outside edges of the rods. Don't be mean with the solder here as you want to flood the joint and leave plenty of solder to file up and give you a nice smooth finish. Rods as removed from the etch. Using a couple of spring clips to hold them in register. Apply plenty of Flux I put them in the vice to solder them together. They look a bit of a mess at this point but will be fine after cleaning up It is a good idea here not to use your best files as they are going to get clogged with solder. The finished rods after filing to shape and a rub down with a fine wet and dry to polish them. More to follow. Sandy Edited March 7, 2014 by Sandy Harper 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 I also use one of those fine nail buffers that the ladies use. The ones with various grades and a smooth panel. The coupling rods can be quite polished with them. There will be some nice lining to do with this one then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Hi Peter 'fraid so!! SAndy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Amazing work as normal Sandy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 Them spring clamps look like the ones you bought a few years back in Barrow. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Amazing work as normal Sandy. Stop it, you'll make me blush!! I know there are very nice cast rods available but you can achieve just as good results with the etched variety. And at a lot less cost!! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 Them spring clamps look like the ones you bought a few years back in Barrow. OzzyO. They are, and they have aged just like yours!!! Must find a new source as it is difficult to get the rust off! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 7, 2014 Author Share Posted March 7, 2014 What a super day. Is this Summer starting? Just got back from a thrash around Mid Wales on my new (to me anyway) Motorbike. Fantastic. All pumped up now so waste of time sitting at the work bench so this is the rest of what I did this morning. Having got the rods looking tidy it's time to open up the crank pin holes with a broach so that they will just fit over the dummy axles of the chassis jig. If you don't have a jig a good dodge is to use Slaters axles. Make up the rods and carefully open out the crank pin holes so that the Slaters axle end screw just fits through the hole (neat fit). Now with the top hat bearings in your chassis sides, and the axle inserted in the bearings, screw the end screw, with the rod trapped in it, into the axle ends thereby jigging the rods and axle bearings together. Fit your spacers and solder up on a flat surface. If you have a jig, then here is the jig being adjusted to fit the rods. Only two axles on this one. The bearing holes in the N/S chassis sides need a big bu**er broach I have left the bearing holes circular at the moment for the jigging process but the front ones will be extended downwards and a spring added later. The last time I built this kit I had to dismantle the chassis as the spacers were too wide. I was not gong to get caught out again. Here is how I calculated the width I needed. Having filed the spacers down to the correct width (I needed to take about 1mm off) here are the spacers fitted ready for soldering in place. More to follow Sandy 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 This photograph illustrates the issue with the spacer width and how much I needed to remove to get the width of the frames correct at 24mm between inside faces. This is a length of 24mm wide Perspex that I obtained from my local sign maker. I have marked it up ready to cut into the individual spacers. The bottom blank is for the spacer at the rear which is a different size due to the narrowing of the frames. The spacers fitted and glued in position. More to follow. Sandy 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 What a super day. Is this Summer starting? Just got back from a thrash around Mid Wales on my new (to me anyway) Motorbike. Nice one Sandy,What you ride, Me ride gsx1400 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 What a super day. Is this Summer starting? Just got back from a thrash around Mid Wales on my new (to me anyway) Motorbike. Nice one Sandy,What you ride, Me ride gsx1400 Nice! A FJR 1300A, and off again today for the coast in this beautiful sunshine! Sandy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 They are, and they have aged just like yours!!! Must find a new source as it is difficult to get the rust off! Sandy One good thing about the rust is solder wont stick to it!!!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 True! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Here are the Perspex spacers glued in place under the original N/S spacers This photo shows the metal spacers slit using a disc in the Dremel Trial fit of the white metal footplate which comes in two parts and needs to be soldered together. Not straight forward, as the castings don't line up well. A shot of Jazz's method of springing for axles. More to follow Sandy 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share Posted March 14, 2014 I felt that the bogie, without any white metal spring castings as part of the build to give it weight, was a bit on the light side so I added some lead to it. I also added two, bar streachers, at each end as it looked very bare otherwise. The motion, in particular, receives no mention in the instructions, other than 'fit' !!! So you are left to your own devices to work out the intended method of assembly. This is my version which I think doesn't look too bad. The cylinder and single slidebar fitted to the frames and motion bracket. Fortunately, the crosshead components are bolted together as it needs to be assembled on to the slidebar. More to follow Sandy 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John K Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Hi Sandy, What material and size is the wire you have used for springing the axle bushes? John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Hi Sandy, What material and size is the wire you have used for springing the axle bushes? John Hi John Steel Piano Wire 0.51mm (0.020" 25SWG) 3Mtrs £2.50p from Eileen's. Regards Sandy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Here are the 3 axles 'split' for pickup of electrical current through the frames The top axle (rear driver) in the picture is for the motor. It is split twice so that the brass final drive gearwheel will be totally isolated. The frames of the gearbox will have insulated bearings and will span the 'cuts'. The two other axles are for the front driver and the rear trailing wheel. The bogie is untouched and plays no part in the electrical pickup system although it is isolated from the main chassis frames. This is a dry run of fitting the first of the white metal castings which are remarkably well cast only requiring the removal of the burnt talc mould releasing agent and the minimum of joint flash. Progress so far. More to follow Sandy 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Looks very smart I assume you are soldering not glueing. Being white metal I expect this will be quite well balanced. The one I made the chassis for was nose heavy and needed lots of lead in the bunker. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hi Peter Glue! Yuck!! All soldered using Carrs 100 degree solder, Copalux paste flux and my Temp. Controlled iron set at 210 Degrees. The white metal does even out the balancing effect quite well, as it did on the previous build I did of the same kit. Considering it is basically a white metal kit, it is well cast and the bits all fit with very little work. Sandy 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Looks like a real gem sandy. Tell me, do you need to be more careful with handling completed W/M kits? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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