Sandy Harper Posted August 12, 2013 Author Share Posted August 12, 2013 On a 4mm one I built. I soldered a channel onto the front step. The three pipes then slide inside this as you attached the chassis, you had to make sure it was able to go in front first. Hi Peter That was the way I was thinking. It will be a few weeks yet before I need to decide. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted August 12, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 12, 2013 Lovely work on the Schools Sandy. All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crewe North Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 (edited) Ah! yes I remember now about the sandpipes ....I did leave them off as, with the front step being cranked inwards towards the front bogie wheel I thought the clearance would be tight, also left off the rear bogie splasher for same reason plus the possibility of shorting The guy I built it for wanted a running model so was not a problem ...... Edited August 13, 2013 by Crewe North Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted August 13, 2013 Author Share Posted August 13, 2013 There are times when compromises have to be made! This is probably one of them!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 (edited) The 'Schools' is away at my friends being grit blasted prior to painting. In the meantime I have been resurrecting another distressed Caley engine. This was originally a Meteor Models kit that had been assembled squarely but with little detail. It was covered in a dark blue paint of indescribable quality! The Prototype is a Class 1, 4-4-0 tank engine for use on the Glasgow Central Railway which included the ' underground' lines and was fitted with condensing apparatus. It was initially painted in the full Caley lined dark blue but, when they were replaced with the electric trains, they were relegated to shunting work with the condensing apparatus removed. One of the class survived as Perth's station pilot painted in the lined sky blue livery. This one will be liveried in the red and white lined black of Caley shunting tanks with the condensing pipes removed. This is the model stripped of its 'Paint Job' and ready to start adding some detail and repairing some of the damage. When the paint came off a large 'dent' was discovered in the side tank. It had been filled with some sort of filler which had dissolved in the cellulose thinners used in the paint removal. Carr's 'Gap Filling' solder came in very useful here and resolved the problem without too much difficulty. Next I had to make up a way of fitting the roof so that it was detachable for access to the cab. This is my preferred method. When I get the roof into position I use a fine permanent marker to mark the four corners by going through the cab cut outs. I then mark a line between the opposite corners. I then cut four lengths of brass or N/S wire and bend each to 90 degrees before soldering them to the underside of the roof with the bend at the apex of the corner as already marked. A slight outward curve, bent in the wire, will make them a nice sliding fit inside the cab and hold the roof in place. This is the progress so far. Sandy Edited September 26, 2013 by Sandy Harper 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 The "Schools" is just Pure engineering poetry. While the "Caley" is a real Phoenix Excellent once again Sandy. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Hello sandy, lovely restoration job, but I see no sign of any cab doors. Did the crew hop through the cab cut outs "Dukes of Hazard" style? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Nice bit of reworking. I often find it is more satisfying making a good model from a wreck than some fresh kits. I see you have a similar method of cab roof fitting as I do. I look forward to seeing the schools painted, what's the livery? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted September 26, 2013 Author Share Posted September 26, 2013 Thanks Barnaby, PAD Mmmm I think it will have to be a slight of hand here. On these engines the door was usually lined as a separate panel so, along with a couple of scratched lines, It may just look the part. Peter, the Schools will be lined olive green. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 I have completed the restoration on the Caley tank but really must get back to the Schools!!! I forgot to push the cab roof fully home before taking the photos!! She is now for sale on both the RMweb site and the G0G 'Sales and Wants' section of the forum, if anyone is interested. Sandy 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Whilst the 'Schools' is still in the paint shop I put this together in a couple of weeks. Roxy kit, split chassis and just awaiting the ABC motor/gearbox to finish (hence, why I have not fitted the driving wheels yet!) Sandy 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted October 31, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 31, 2013 Looking very nice Sandy, how do you rate the Roxey kit? Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 I am with Dave on this very nice, I have only made the chassis and found that OK. So what's the livery going to be. Pea green and all that lovely lining??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 All this SR goodness, I can't contain myself. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Hi Dave Thanks, the kit is ok (7 out of 10)with clean castings and reasonable instructions but it leaves you high and dry when it comes to the crosshead area. This took quite a bit of trial and error to get it right. The connecting rod has to be inside the coupling rod. Unlike Peter I had a big issue with the chassis as I ended up, after assembly, with 30.3mm between the outside faces of the brass top hat bearings! I had to dismantle and remove nearly 2mm from the width of the frame spacers to give me a bit of side play. I have a second kit to build and I have individually measured all the components across the chassis and it still comes out at 29.7mm So something to be aware of when building. The rest of the chassis went together fine. Peter - the client wants the light olive green and yellow lettering, but, the second one will be a la Blubell version. Jack P - I'm taking pills for the condition! Kind regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbedford Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Why would you want side play on the drivers of a four coupled loco? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Why would you want side play on the drivers of a four coupled loco?Bill What I meant was, that I needed to get the width over the bearings to less that 29.5 to get a running clearance. I think I ended up with 29.3 over the bearing flanges which was sufficient to avoid any chance of binding between the rear of the wheel and the face of the bearing flange. The other issue with this kit is the clearance needed between the crosshead and the rear of the front footsteps. Being white metal the steps are slightly thicker than a brass etch (I had already added a N/S strengthening strip behind the steps) and any widening of the chassis reduces this clearance. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Hi Sandy, great job. I think I would have made the steps from brass to give more clearance, but I guess as you are building it to a commission, that would add time and cost into the equation. Cheers, Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Peter, If it was mine I would have built a different kit!!!! Re gards Sandy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Peter, If it was mine I would have built a different kit!!!! Re gards Sandy As it this or a blown up Jidenco one I hope you meant a class totally!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Peter, I was thinking of the Martin Finney version. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Peter, I was thinking of the Martin Finney version. Sandy Very true I had forgotten that one. Think I need to speak to Santa nicely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Ooooooh! that's a big ask! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Peter, Did you know that Laurie Griffin has a Adams Radial in the ex Shedmaster kit range? Here is Stowe finished at last after a couple of diversions on to other projects. Regards Sandy 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Sandy The schools looks great. I did one of the first 10 in EM gauge. That was interesting as there were differences in the tenders too. Still a favourite of mine even if not in keeping with my ex LSWR plans. I knew about the LG radial. But I do believe they are blown up Jidenco kits. The Beattie well I have been doing from the same stable is. It has all the same troubles as the 4mm one. As it is one for the future I have time to decide what to do. I need to finish the drawing for my 0395 class first as this is a long term scratch build project for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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