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I need another Shed for Bermuda Road and Bacup :no:  :no: :no:  :no:  :no:  

 

OR

 

 

Maybe TWO MORE SHEDS. :nono:

 

:sungum:

Just talk er' indoors into living in the shed and move the LAYOUTS into the bungalow, best of luck with that as I'm still trying that angle at Mac's towers!

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Hi all,

 

Been a bit quiet on Dent for a while, just too much to do - drat! Anyway done a few things over the last week....

 

I have started adding some static grass to the front of the layout which currently only has a basic ground cover.

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Here the first two sections are being prepared and Green Scene long 'Straw' grass is applied.

 

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Here the rear of the control panel has been tidied up and the connections identified with labels in place of pencil scribblings!

 

Edit: Looks like the photos got jumbled up! No idea why.

post-5296-0-69748400-1439658582_thumb.jpg

Edited by mike61680
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It may look like some fun here but in fact its more work...

 

Both the parcels train and the Gresley's have been weathered to get rid of the plastic look.

 

post-5296-0-97612300-1439659312_thumb.jpg

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post-5296-0-81797300-1439659367_thumb.jpg

 

Thats it for now guys!

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Looking good there Young Mike, I'm still looking for VOLENTEERS to look at my control panel, :nono:  hahahha

 

Love the Peak and Gresley pics mate, and god to know your back on the job.

Edited by Andrew P
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Looking good there Young Mike, I'm still looking for VOLENTEERS to look at my control panel, :nono:  hahahha

 

Love the Peak and Gresley pics mate, and god to know your back on the job.

Hi Andy,

 

You change your layouts like the weather mate, I thought you had gone DCC which 'apparently' makes control panels redundant - only 2 wires anyway. Here are a couple of views of my Bermuda Road control panels to give you inspiration.  :jester:  :jester:

 

post-5296-0-37372200-1439711694_thumb.jpg

The main panel for the front of the layout and MPD

 

post-5296-0-48933300-1439711687_thumb.jpg

Inside the above panel

 

post-5296-0-33363500-1439711267.jpg

Both panels shown here, the small one controls the Diesel depot

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Mike,

 

If it was me making the electric panels for any layout, I would have physical separation of he 220V and the 12V, to the limits of possible.  The transformers at the right rear are the 220-12V ones for the controllers, right?  If it was me, they would be located in a separate box feeding up to the layout with a 4 wire connector. 

 

Colour me stupid, but as a poor stoker who understands you fix electric gear by calling for a 'trode, it seems safer that way !

 

('trode= Naval Electrical Technician)

 

I know that there is very limited risk in doing what you have done, but still...the potential for a 220V surprise should be minimized.   (It's like the bad joke at work- CURRENTLY, I recommend putting the water resistant box onto the Safety Chain, otherwise, something SHOCKINGLY might go wrong... this is for the 440V submersible pump, which the navy in their infinite wisdom have water resistant boxes, not waterproof...and one of them ground faulted me with a little bit zap)

 

I don't think I have any photos of the last control panels I made up- the wiring on the Thomas the Tank Engine layout is rather constrained by its size (5x5'), but is far neater than my previous DC wired layouts.  (there is colour coding...which is better than most of my previous layouts).  I have been accused of being functionally able to wire, but more like a pasta factory than anything else.

 

James

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Hi Mike and James, my 240V  / 16V AC is in a plastic box, with loads of holes drilled for Air Flow and is connected to the Layout via a TV Coax cable and Male / Female Plug, that way the one Transformer will do all my Layouts.
 
Out side looks good Mike, its still the inside that worries me, although I now have it sorted, and yes had I gone down the road of DCC for Point operation then it would have been just two wires, but I have also included Frog Feeds to the Panel for By Coloured LED'S and that why it actually looks worse than it is.

Edited by Andrew P
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Mike,

 

If it was me making the electric panels for any layout, I would have physical separation of he 220V and the 12V, to the limits of possible.  The transformers at the right rear are the 220-12V ones for the controllers, right?  If it was me, they would be located in a separate box feeding up to the layout with a 4 wire connector. 

 

Colour me stupid, but as a poor stoker who understands you fix electric gear by calling for a 'trode, it seems safer that way !

 

('trode= Naval Electrical Technician)

 

I know that there is very limited risk in doing what you have done, but still...the potential for a 220V surprise should be minimized.   (It's like the bad joke at work- CURRENTLY, I recommend putting the water resistant box onto the Safety Chain, otherwise, something SHOCKINGLY might go wrong... this is for the 440V submersible pump, which the navy in their infinite wisdom have water resistant boxes, not waterproof...and one of them ground faulted me with a little bit zap)

 

I don't think I have any photos of the last control panels I made up- the wiring on the Thomas the Tank Engine layout is rather constrained by its size (5x5'), but is far neater than my previous DC wired layouts.  (there is colour coding...which is better than most of my previous layouts).  I have been accused of being functionally able to wire, but more like a pasta factory than anything else.

 

James

Hi James,

 

I never saw any problems with it to be honest and no one has ever mentioned it (or been too frightened to!) I can see your point now and will have to remedy it especially if I put it up for sale so thanks for the timely pointer it may just keep me out of jail or worse. :scared:

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Hi Mike

 

I am in full agreement with James. On Hanging Hill I had two Gaugemaster T1 transformers in the control panel box, with no separation from the low voltage side. It wasn't until I started to take things apart that I realised how lucky I had been not to have an electrical problem involving the mains.  For both Sheffield Exchange and Ranelagh Bridge I am using Gaugemaster M1 enclosed transformers and they are kept on floor out of the way. Both layouts have panel mounted controllers as I like them, it keeps everything together. Brisbane Road uses a 100M controller, it might be revised to use the same system as the other two train sets.

 

Please do cover up your transformers, no matter how careful you are accidents can happen. I was lucky with Hanging Hill.

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Hi all,

 

A little light relief...

 

post-5296-0-27264000-1440178447_thumb.jpg

Stranger in the camp in the form of an Ex:LNER O4 No. 63601 on a northbound unfitted freight

 

post-5296-0-64046400-1440178454_thumb.jpg

I think this loco should be heading for a 'General Repair' rather than escaping to the west!

 

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I can't resist big goods engines! Getting an O1 next!

 

post-5296-0-84293400-1440178468_thumb.jpg

Jubilee No 45600 'Bermuda' is in charge of a southbound fish express.

 

post-5296-0-85523600-1440178474_thumb.jpg

Brush Type 4 No. D1662 'Isambard Kingdom Brunel' hauls a northbound fitted van train

 

But it's not all fun!!!

 

post-5296-0-09978000-1440178481_thumb.jpg

This is the new station masters house...........well a quick mock-up to show the general outlines

 

post-5296-0-86317800-1440178487_thumb.jpg

Placed in position

 

post-5296-0-40166800-1440178494_thumb.jpg

Here is the Perspex shell, my chosen preferred method for all building scratchbuilding

 

post-5296-0-93767400-1440178501_thumb.jpg

The new shell in position, note the height is at least 15mm higher than required as all my building sit in the landscape to avoid unsightly gaps you get when simply plonked on top

 

post-5296-0-81116400-1440178508_thumb.jpg

Back to the fun... the Inspection saloon sneaked in under cover hauled by Ivatt 2-6-2T 41272.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi all,

 

A little light relief...

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-16 10.51.27.jpg

Stranger in the camp in the form of an Ex:LNER O4 No. 63601 on a northbound unfitted freight

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-16 10.52.09.jpg

I think this loco should be heading for a 'General Repair' rather than escaping to the west!

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-16 10.53.00.jpg

I can't resist big goods engines! Getting an O1 next!

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-19 20.17.10.jpg

Jubilee No 45600 'Bermuda' is in charge of a southbound fish express.

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-19 20.17.31.jpg

Brush Type 4 No. D1662 'Isambard Kingdom Brunel' hauls a northbound fitted van train

 

But it's not all fun!!!

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-20 19.59.52.jpg

This is the new station masters house...........well a quick mock-up to show the general outlines

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-20 20.00.14.jpg

Placed in position

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-20 20.00.44.jpg

Here is the Perspex shell, my chosen preferred method for all building scratchbuilding

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-20 20.01.08.jpg

The new shell in position, note the height is at least 15mm higher than required as all my building sit in the landscape to avoid unsightly gaps you get when simply plonked on top

 

attachicon.gif2015-08-20 20.02.30.jpg

Back to the fun... the Inspection saloon sneaked in under cover hauled by Ivatt 2-6-2T 41272.

That looks like something out of Dr Who.

 

I spent some time working in a plastics factory, where we fabricated parts for high end artworks, amongst other things. A couple of tips spring to mind when working with acrylic.

 

1) If drilling the bit needs to be "blunt", we used to file th edge off new bits.At least my younger colleagues did, it was beyond my eyesights capabilities. The revs should be low, and only briefly applied to the plastic. In between applications of the drill the bit should be cooled by dunking in water. This is all to avoid the build up of heat in the plastic.

 

2) Unwanted scratches, or haze, can be polished out with Dura-glit, use small constantly moving circles, over and around the problem. Again dont continue for more than a few seconds at a time, dont allow the material to get too warm.

 

All the bast

 

TONY

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Hi Mike

Interesting to see you building a mock up of the station house. Did you have the actual dimentions for the house? This is a technique I'm using for the first time on the new layout, though in this instance it's being used to work out how a large number of buildings relate to each other. 

There's definitely no better (or cheaper) way to test if a building looks right in a certain location. It must be nice to have the luxury of building the actual house in perspex. It'll give you a very strong structure and accurate good looking windows. Unfortunately I've never had a large supply of it so I've only ever used it for the upper floor of signal boxes.

 

Alan

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Alan,

 

Compared with the cost in time for most model making activities, even at a quid an hour, the materials are usually irrelevant. 

 

I built up the walls for my stationmasters house using Bristol board (20-30 thou cardstock), and then hand scribed on the courses.  Reference to photos is vital to ensure accuracy if one is modeling a particular location. 

 

It's not finished- none of the buildings for Long Marton are finished.  The goods shed is the closest to finished, but even it needs a lot of work.  The idea of a Perspex frame inside a building is really nice to build from, as it means the structure of the building is nice and solid.  There are other tools now available to allow for colouring and cutting out, as if I was starting again now, I think I would use a lot more 2d drawing and then a stiletto (2d cutter) and laser printer to construct the buildings.

 

James

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That looks like something out of Dr Who.

 

I spent some time working in a plastics factory, where we fabricated parts for high end artworks, amongst other things. A couple of tips spring to mind when working with acrylic.

 

1) If drilling the bit needs to be "blunt", we used to file th edge off new bits.At least my younger colleagues did, it was beyond my eyesights capabilities. The revs should be low, and only briefly applied to the plastic. In between applications of the drill the bit should be cooled by dunking in water. This is all to avoid the build up of heat in the plastic.

 

2) Unwanted scratches, or haze, can be polished out with Dura-glit, use small constantly moving circles, over and around the problem. Again dont continue for more than a few seconds at a time, dont allow the material to get too warm.

 

All the bast

 

TONY

Thanks for that Tony, I have always gone for the exact opposite! Small 'sharp' drill bit first at full speed then increase in size with the same gusto approach, but I will definitely give your method a try next time, thanks.

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Hi Mike

Interesting to see you building a mock up of the station house. Did you have the actual dimentions for the house? This is a technique I'm using for the first time on the new layout, though in this instance it's being used to work out how a large number of buildings relate to each other. 

There's definitely no better (or cheaper) way to test if a building looks right in a certain location. It must be nice to have the luxury of building the actual house in perspex. It'll give you a very strong structure and accurate good looking windows. Unfortunately I've never had a large supply of it so I've only ever used it for the upper floor of signal boxes.

 

Alan

Hi Alan,

Did not have dimensions for Dent Station Masters house but the excellent publication 'Stations & Structures of the S&C Rly' has a general drawing of a typical SM house so I have used this as a guide, it looks pretty spot on. Next thing to do is make up the etched windows! 

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I used the drawings from "Rails in the Fells", scaled using a photocopier up to 4mm/ft based on the rulers in them.  I then hacked a section out of the goods shed, to make it 2 bays (rather than 3), which of course now I have a scale length version of Long Marton, I regret.  (and there is no easy way to fix that either...)  It still amazes me how much work you and Jeff both get done Mike, as I can't seem to devote the time to Long Marton.  Today's fun project has been this little one:

 

IMG_4363.jpg?resize=211%2C285

 

(an official Lego poster from the theatre set, but it seems to be very representative of my lego life...about 20L of lego sorted out today, and more still to do...always more...)

Edited by peach james
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Hi Alan,

Did not have dimensions for Dent Station Masters house but the excellent publication 'Stations & Structures of the S&C Rly' has a general drawing of a typical SM house so I have used this as a guide, it looks pretty spot on. Next thing to do is make up the etched windows! 

Of course... I forgot about "Stations and Structures" - a mine of information about the line.

I had a trawl through my photos to see if I had any close ups of he station house which might have been of use to you, but alas nothing. Too obsessed with photographing the trains. 

 

Alan

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I used the drawings from "Rails in the Fells", scaled using a photocopier up to 4mm/ft based on the rulers in them.  I then hacked a section out of the goods shed, to make it 2 bays (rather than 3), which of course now I have a scale length version of Long Marton, I regret.  (and there is no easy way to fix that either...)  It still amazes me how much work you and Jeff both get done Mike, as I can't seem to devote the time to Long Marton.  Today's fun project has been this little one:

 

IMG_4363.jpg?resize=211%2C285

 

(an official Lego poster from the theatre set, but it seems to be very representative of my lego life...about 20L of lego sorted out today, and more still to do...always more...)

Hi James,

 

Those drawings are very similar to the book I used, I had to photocopy to 265% to get the scale right.

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Of course... I forgot about "Stations and Structures" - a mine of information about the line.

I had a trawl through my photos to see if I had any close ups of he station house which might have been of use to you, but alas nothing. Too obsessed with photographing the trains. 

 

Alan

You and me both Alan, some people forget that film was very expensive back then. I do have a good range of current condition photos but several major changes have taken place since the 60's.

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I was going to ask if you had a running session over the weekend mate, but obviously not. Good luck with the House Building.

Hi Andy,

 

In a word no! I spent Saturday ripping out our bathroom and Sunday getting over it and laying some grass, static grass that is. All the main scenic boards have now had an initial covering and photos may follow later, if your a good boy! Hahaha.

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