RMweb Gold griffgriff Posted November 29, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 29, 2012 Yes. Once you have them you will find them most useful. They are a good way of getting two or more lengths of wire to come out the same, unless you are amiong the many who are cleverer and more skilled than I am and can do that with pliers and a ruler. Chris They may be cleverer but are they as quick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Brunel Posted November 29, 2012 Author Share Posted November 29, 2012 OK gentlemen, I have studied the Paul Bartlett photographs and Modelmaster decal sheet and will be building B950645 which I believe was a Diagram 1/504 vehicle, would have been bauxite and vac piped with instanta couplings. I plan on getting a hold of the Bill Bedford handrail jigs, as well as the Lanarkshire Models B003 buffers and VP01 upright vac pipe. Thanks to everybody who offered advice and recommendations, I just need to work out what paint I'm going to use and how to represent the instanta couplings. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 OK gentlemen, I have studied the Paul Bartlett photographs and Modelmaster decal sheet and will be building B950645 which I believe was a Diagram 1/504 vehicle, would have been bauxite and vac piped with instanta couplings. I plan on getting a hold of the Bill Bedford handrail jigs, as well as the Lanarkshire Models B003 buffers and VP01 upright vac pipe. Thanks to everybody who offered advice and recommendations, I just need to work out what paint I'm going to use and how to represent the instanta couplings. Smiths do the Instanter couplings, and I have had etched ones as well in the past (PC Models, perhaps?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted November 29, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 29, 2012 as well as the Lanarkshire Models B003 buffers and VP01 upright vac pipe. Happy now Mr Franks? Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveb860 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 For painting, Humbrol 133 is a good match for bauxite Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Brunel Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Thanks for that - unfortunately, I paint in acrylics and 133 is only offered as enamel! What about Humbrol 70? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefrk Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 OK gentlemen, I have studied the Paul Bartlett photographs and Modelmaster decal sheet and will be building B950645 which I believe was a Diagram 1/504 vehicle, would have been bauxite and vac piped with instanta couplings. I plan on getting a hold of the Bill Bedford handrail jigs, as well as the Lanarkshire Models B003 buffers and VP01 upright vac pipe. Thanks to everybody who offered advice and recommendations, I just need to work out what paint I'm going to use and how to represent the instanta couplings. Hi, just remembered, VP01 is the upright vac pipe and it has a fixing bracket near the top (to fasten to wagon ends) but, it could easily be filed off. I'm working on some new types of vac pipes at the moment one of which would have no top bracket. If I was asked I would suggest the VP03 swan neck type which superceded the upright one after about 1950. Hope that helps, Dave Franks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveb860 Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Do you airbrush or handpaint? Humbrol enamel applies very well in both methods. What about Railmatch acrylic Bauxite ?. AFAIK humbrol 70 is brick red.Might pass for faded worn bauxite, never tried it. However I don't see anyone suggesting it, which speaks volumes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Brunel Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 On further thought, I'll be using the Railmatch acrylic bauxite - Humbrol 70 isn't a brilliant match. I usually handpaint since I don't have the time/space/money (pick one) for an airbrush sadly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodyfox Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 This is one I built to EM gauge. The footboards were scratchbuilt as the originals were too thick and I used 0.5mm wire for handrails. Apart from that all else is original. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Brunel Posted December 9, 2012 Author Share Posted December 9, 2012 Very nice! I am afraid progress is slow as I await the replacement bits - however I've managed to shave off the moulded handrails and scribe the planking back in. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mel_H Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) I recall from somewhere (!) that some kind soul has produced an interior detailing kit (stove, handbrake wheel/stand, desk etc). Is my memory bad (probably...), if not can anyone advise. A forum trawl has failed to turn up anything, so apologies if it's mentioned elsewhere. Otherwise, thanks in advance! Edited January 17, 2017 by Mel_H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 No idea on interior kits. But Dave Bradwell does an underframe and detailing kit which includes inner ends. https://traders.scalefour.org/DaveBradwell/rolling-stock/ Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CloggyDog Posted January 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 17, 2017 (edited) Not aware of a full interior kit, but a cast w/m handbrake stand is out there, I picked up a pack containing a pair at a show within the last... 5 or 6 years or so (and wish i could remember who! 51L/Wizard do one with a windey handle, but not a handwheel, which mine are). The rest of the interior comprises bench seats (with storage below), padded ducket sides, desk, central brake standard, stove and (piped) a vacuum gauge and emergency handle. A useful reference is the Eric Gent book on BR Brake Vans and Ballast Brakes published by the HMRS. This also has chapter and verse on the detail variations (lamp irons, handrails, steps, etc). A real bargain at just £4!! Interestingly, the recent Hornby re-tooled BR 20 brake does contain much of the interior detail - I picked up a couple via Amazon for about £6.50 a pop a wee while back. I've done one burnt-out brake myself (hence the brake stand) with a second (commissioned) under build, both using the old Kitmaster/Airfix/Dapol kit. I bought a Dapol one at Stevenage on Saturday, which had a LOT of flash, I guess the tooling is finally showing it's age! Edit - here's a 7mm one with a nice scratchbuilt interior, which might give a few pointers Edited January 17, 2017 by CloggyDog Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Glazing makes a big difference to these vans. I used an Airfix body on a RTR probably Hornby chassis on my outdoor line and the twinkle of light on glazed windows really looks the part. The Airfix seems much more airy than RTR versions and the real thing is very "See through" compared to GW< SR and LMS designs. For glazing I used bits of crystal clear plastic from an old CD or Cassette case just glued to the ends. Bugs used to get in before I glazed it, always an issue outside. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted January 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2017 (edited) The internal layout was as follows; brake wheel offcentre towards the non stove side next to the ducket, stove in opposite lh corner in metal tray which served as coal bunker, drying rail for wet clothes with hook above stove. The brakewheel was painted white. Benches down entire brakewheel side and as far as ducket on stove side, cushions, cushioned backrest, and cushioned shoulder pads at the duckets (necessary because even the best of drivers weren't perfect on a long loose coupled train, and some were not even that good), cushion on brakewheel side at end for desk. There were clips on the wall, stove side but other (desk) end IIRC for track circuit clips in later days, and holders next to the desk for a brake stick and shunting pole. The benches lifted to reveal storage lockers in which the lamps were stowed, and there was a little metal hoop below the stove side ducket seat for the lamp oil container, usually a milk bottle. The desk had a sloping lifting top like a school desk, but no inkwell! As a note on liveries, the lamp brackets were usually, but not always, painted white, including the side lamp brackets. The cushions were brown leather stuffed with horsehair, and might have been quite a light colour when new but were filthy dark brown in no time in service. Interior walls were cream, or grey in later days, as was the inside of the roof; no lighting was provided. If the van was vacuum fitted, as with any other vac fitted vehicle the pipe was painted red, and painted white if just piped through, though the main livery was bauxite for both and only grey for vans with no pipe at all; these were thin on the ground by the 70s. Some RU vans were air brake fitted; Jersey Marine kept one for the Blaenant-Aberthaw MGR trains which set back into the pit loading plant round a corner out of sight of the loco and had to be controlled by the guard or the travelling shunter from the van on a falling gradient until that was out of sight and the loco hove into view. All fitted vans had vacuum gauges and brake setters, the latter being painted red, but not all piped only ones, the majority by the 70s, had gauges and none had setters, The pipes to the gauges were copper. The LNER ones on which the BR standard was based had a different stove, a square one with a removable top. A large electrification warning flash notice was placed on the wall behind the stove reminding guards not to raise the stove pipes, though it might have been a good way of getting a reluctant fire going... What's with the burnt out van craze? In 7 years as a guard I only ever set fire to one, the result of enthusiastic braking on a hot, dry day, and they left it on display at Ebbw Junction yard for weeks to shame me... Hope some of this is some help to someone. Edited January 22, 2017 by The Johnster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
37114 Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 What's with the burnt out van craze? In 7 years as a guard I only ever set fire to one, the result of enthusiastic braking on a hot, dry day, and they left it on display at Ebbw Junction yard for weeks to shame me... My excuse was I was demoing at a show and had made good progress so by lunchtime on the Sunday all that was left as a Dapol kit in the botton of the project box. Building it as nature intended would not have filled the afternoon so it got burnt out. At last weekends show at Weston it was the most commented item on the whole layout (it lives in a scrapyard now) by the viewers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I remeber a burnt out one at the sheffield freight terminal. This wasn`t vandalism, but the guard had put out the oil tail almps by "banging" them on the floor. This time, one leaked but didn`t go out, so by the time they came back to retreave it, it was burning nicely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted January 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 23, 2017 IIRC the Airfix roof is wrong, a mirror image of what it should be with placement of the stove pipe and vents. This will of course affect where the interior bits are fitted....... Another improvement is to score/plank the inside veranda ends, helps get rid of the mould impressions which are none to brilliant. Don't know if this is an issue with the original Airfix mouldings but it certainly is with Dapol ones. Does make a decent model with a bit of effort, wire handrails etc. Izzy 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnH Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 I'm refurbishing a few old Airfix/Dapol kit built brake vans that I've picked up at swapmeets over the years. I'm looking to transform them into two CAO's, a CAP and a CAR. Pardon my ignorance... but presumably the CAO's won't need the underfloor vacuum cylinder or V hanger, but what from the original kit should be underneath the model on a CAP and CAR? Also what would the relevant bufferbeam pipework be for the various models? I realise I'll have to source roller bearing axleboxes and correct buffers where appropriate. Thanks for any help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Neither would have the vacuum cylinder. The CAP would have a vacuum pipe on the headstock. The CAR would have a vac pipe and twin air-pipes, as well as three pipes coming out from under the wagon and going into the body to the left of the ducket on one side. These were painted white, as were the part of the vac-pipe nearest the headstock on both types of vehicle. This photo's probably clearer than my words:- http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbrakediag507/h264a0a25#h2774277c Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnH Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Thanks for the information Brian. Another quick question - in theory could you use any of the CAO/CAP/CAR vans on a partially fitted or unfitted train? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Thanks for the information Brian. Another quick question - in theory could you use any of the CAO/CAP/CAR vans on a partially fitted or unfitted train? As they would have access to the main train pipe, it wouldn't matter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Neither would have the vacuum cylinder. The CAP would have a vacuum pipe on the headstock. The CAR would have a vac pipe and twin air-pipes, as well as three pipes coming out from under the wagon and going into the body to the left of the ducket on one side. These were painted white, as were the part of the vac-pipe nearest the headstock on both types of vehicle. This photo's probably clearer than my words:- http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbrakediag507/h264a0a25#h2774277c .. or later on two pipes and only a single airpipe in addition to the vac pipe. Both painted white at the base http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brbrakediag507/e340ee61b Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ikcdab Posted December 3, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2021 On 23/01/2017 at 13:30, Izzy said: IIRC the Airfix roof is wrong, a mirror image of what it should be with placement of the stove pipe and vents. This will of course affect where the interior bits are fitted....... Another improvement is to score/plank the inside veranda ends, helps get rid of the mould impressions which are none to brilliant. Don't know if this is an issue with the original Airfix mouldings but it certainly is with Dapol ones. Does make a decent model with a bit of effort, wire handrails etc. Izzy Bumping this old but useful topic. When did the overhead warning flashes become prevelant? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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