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Motive power for Camden Shed


92220
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Hi Farren,

 

Hopefully this pic will help:

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

 

As you say, clearance is tight between the AWS box and the trailing truck. I added injector pipe work from copper wire. The trailing tuck itself needed a little fettling at the front to clear the Hornby chassis block.

 

According to what I've read in several books, the rebuilt Scots and Patriots used the 2A boiler. The two rebuilt Jubilees, (4)5735 Comet and (4)5736 Phoenix, also used the 2A boiler. The boiler on (4)6170 British Legion was a type 2, you're right. 10 11/16" longer than the 2A. I may have to work out a way to make that from scratch, when the time comes...

 

Iain

 

Hi Iain

 

I don't know how good it was, but, if you can find one a company called McGowan use to do a body kit for Brtish Legion

 

Ian

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I don't know how good it was, but, if you can find one a company called McGowan use to do a body kit for Brtish Legion

 

 

 

Probably not very.  I built one of their WD 2-8-0 body kits a good while back, designed to fit on a modified Jouef 2-8-2 chassis.  It was buildable but the castings were a bit crude, the boiler oval and it required a lot of finishing.  Oddly, there was a brief mention of them on the Kings Cross Models thread a day or so back. The original brass masters were apparently very good but they were let down by poor casting. I cannot really comment on British Legion but my experience of McGowan Kits seems to tally with the experience of others.

Edited by Arthur
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Thanks Arthur. I seemed to remember a general opinion of McGowan kits along those lines.

 

A big thank you to Andy Y for pinning this thread. I'd better get on and do something worthwhile!

 

After a busy and tiring 2 days attempting and only partly succeeding to visit people at various UK universities via our national rail network (it's remarkable that I got as much done as I did given the battles that Network Rail have had to fight), I got back this evening and had an hour doing something different. So much so that I may have to start a new thread.

 

Iain

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  • 5 months later...

Can you tell what I'm up to?

 

post-10140-0-02466500-1406744771_thumb.jpg

 

I'm certain you all can....

 

I have a choice here:

 

post-10140-0-74891400-1406744814_thumb.jpg

 

But I'm going to go safe and build it rigid. If I can get this to work effectively, I'll try the next one with some sort of suspension/compensation.

 

Iain

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Jinties - correct!

Pete, I do have a pic of a 4F on ecs going past the shed in about 1956, but nothing as late as 1960. Maybe at some point I will try to build one.

 

Anyway, here is the chassis as it stands:

 

post-10140-0-59000600-1406756586_thumb.jpg

 

Which all looks ostensibly fine, but despite building the frames using Comet jigs, checking as I went, and then setting the bearings using the coupling rod centres as pictured, it isn't square. So it may end up in the oven at 225 deg C tomorrow morning. Not sure yet.

 

What about this one?

 

post-10140-0-24838900-1406757103_thumb.jpg

 

This chassis is square and true - indeed I've progressed quite a bit further with it.

 

Iain

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Getting close! Cut out for front wheels is too close for a pony truck I think, so it's definitely a 4-6-something. The body includes the very front section of the frames.

 

A visitor, reasonably regularly, but not a resident. As you can see from the very thick frames, it's a DJH kit, picked up for £45. For which I have the wrong tender, strictly speaking.

 

Iain

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Progressing, steadily:

 

post-10140-0-93264100-1406984098_thumb.jpg

 

post-10140-0-97159900-1406984270_thumb.jpg

 

There were a few Standard 5s on services into Euston, but all those that I have pictures of are coupled to a 1G or 1A tender. So this one may just get another tender, and a second handrail at the back of the cab.

 

I've found much of the kit goes together reasonably easily, with careful fettling of parts. But some bits have been a challenge, notably the cab roof. It wasn't quite symmetrical and so, although the cab itself seemed to fold up squarely and accurately, it didn't fit the roof. I did my best... The pic shows the worse of the two sides.

 

I've laminated the coupling rods and have begun to make up the cylinder, slide bars and crosshead assemblies. I'm adding a mixture of Comet and Gibson injectors, clack valves, water valves and steam manifolds etc - again a start has been made on these.

 

Iain

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  • 2 months later...

Hello 92220 I have been following your work. Camden motive depot has always been a favourite...the seconds around the turntable and the crossovers back to the running lines are iconic. Your conversion of the high footpate Ivstt 5 inspired me to attempt my own with the GBL body as a starting point. Thank you for this series really enjoy your work

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Should read scenes...not seconds...if I could go back in time I would want longer than that looking at these images, pardon

My ignorance but reading earlier post mentions Mike edge princess...where are these advertised...dont seem to be on Judith edge website or are they?

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Thanks and no problem! Glad that you've enjoyed seeing my attempts here.

Your namesake is a particular favourite of mine. I must get round to weighting it so it will pull a minimum of 12 without fuss.

 

I've managed to accumulate a lot of pictures and they are almost all useful in some way. Like you, I could spend hours looking at them.

 

Mike Edge did some beautiful etches but more as scratch-aids rather than as a kit. I'm not sure whether they are advertised. Tim set up a thread "Building a Princess in 4mm scale" which is interesting. I think philbax and others have completed theirs - and wonderfully well too - I will aim to get a couple of Princesses in due course but there are other priorities at present.

 

Another recent announcement is that Brassmasters have just done a 4mm Princess kit. Realistically, I suspect I am looking at a solution using the latest Hornby China chassis and some solution involving who knows what parts for the running plate and body. Building a properly running 4-6-2 chassis is a step too far at the moment.

 

Iain

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I have two GBL princesses no awaiting chassis. I already have two Hornby examples on which I have improved the rear car taxi pony truck.I have done this by removing a lot of the pony truck metal mostly the " split" upper support. The reminder on the body also removed, and replaced by single piece of nickel silver bent and shaped. It makes a marked improvement to the models. I too would prefer to obtain China chassis ....replacing the valve gear on one with GWR style slide bars....the other the different motion bracket for Princess Victoria. The other avenue would be obtaining the chassis kits, Comet would have been my preferred option..but sadly at the moment....brassmasters if they are prepared to sell separately. The problem is then one of finance the wheels moto and gearbox alone would work our dearer than the Hornby RTR. Which is where I started, for some reason duchess chassis appear in good supply not so princesses...thanks for you reply as stated really enjoy your models

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Sorry a bit presumptious of me to adopt the 46256 moniker..46235 would have been more appropriate. I really like your version, have it and city of Salford ".....plus streamline GBL City of Coventry....city of Brum in green Hornby comet upgrade., same city of Nottingham in maroon. Weighting models...Even had to add some to RTR examples....thank goodness for liquid lead my names Brian and I modell my village Water Orton as it was in 1950 to 70s...ex Midlands railway NE to SW route. Saw prin coron on Trent valley diversions in 64 even Sir William 46256 him(her) self

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Sorry a bit presumptious of me to adopt the 46256 moniker..46235 would have been more appropriate. I really like your version, have it and city of Salford ".....plus streamline GBL City of Coventry....city of Brum in green Hornby comet upgrade., same city of Nottingham in maroon. Weighting models...Even had to add some to RTR examples....thank goodness for liquid lead my names Brian and I modell my village Water Orton as it was in 1950 to 70s...ex Midlands railway NE to SW route. Saw prin coron on Trent valley diversions in 64 even Sir William 46256 him(her) self

Brian,

 

I hope that you haven't used PVA to secure the liquid lead. They interact and expand. Sufficient force can be generated to split an overlapping soldered seam on a brass boiler. Thin epoxy or superglue is probably a better fixative. Even better, use rolled lead sheet.

 

Jol

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Jol thank you for this .have previously fallen foul of pva...now use superglue....even though I end up with more on my fingers...and the amount of trousers with little glue additions. I use rolled lead soldered into the frames and liquid lead in body cavity, I have to say its the one area of modelling I dislike...but as 92220 points out even white metal kits benefit from this....especially if you want to pull a decent train....even more so if a number of coaches have etched brass sides and metal fixtures. It is where the RTR boys have the edge designing in weight I such area as running boards...even then relying on traction tyres with some models. It is not just steam either black beetle bogies are at full stretch with two three car units....just modelled Swindon 123 class used a railroad class33 motor chassis , cut and stretched as motive provider for four car set.

 

92220 sorry for lengthy reply on your thread. Any thought yet on sourcing a princess...a must for your layout

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No problem Brian!

 

Good advice from Jol - as always! I have used superglue to hold in liquid lead to the 9F mods I did. It will now pull 20 mk1s. My 46256 is based on a Hornby China City of Carlisle, which is why it's so light footed. I'm sure that a decent white metal and brass kit would be more capable of shifting a decent load just built as standard, but I may be wrong.

 

I've found that my kit built coaches actually run more freely than the rtr examples, due to the pinpoint bearings I suspect. So while they may be heavier, they have less rolling resistance and less inertia due to the lower friction. I think..... A future project will probably be to sink pinpoint bearings into all the Bachmann mk1 bogie frames and replacing the wheels with short-axle Gibsons, which run much more freely in my experience.

 

Now off to Wycrail briefly!

 

Iain

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Thanks for your reply, two bits of "kit" I miss from my em days...the first a milled steel block...run it inside your track ( points exempted) it soon finds any tight spots or bits of ballast glued to inside of rails thus creating derails..... The second a reamer which fits inside your plastic wagon coach bogie and removes s.igbt amounts of the plastic thus improving running...have fitted a number of brass pinpoint bearings by the less than perfect method of locating them then adding a solder iron to cement them in....worse case...suddenly bearing at an angle protruding outside of chassis......hangs head in shame

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  • 1 month later...

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