MichaelW Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 A proper engine! Now, what size car would I need to fit that in I've been fiddling with 21t Hopper supports and toast-rack guardrails. I seem to have super-glued what was left of my sanity to my fingers (along with most other things). How on earth should I apply super-glue to small etched parts without them sticking to my fingers? Jason, any chance of an end on shot of your 21t hopper so I can see how the bits go with the handrails? The instructions just confuse me Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 A proper engine! Now, what size car would I need to fit that in I've been fiddling with 21t Hopper supports and toast-rack guardrails. I seem to have super-glued what was left of my sanity to my fingers (along with most other things). How on earth should I apply super-glue to small etched parts without them sticking to my fingers? Jason, any chance of an end on shot of your 21t hopper so I can see how the bits go with the handrails? The instructions just confuse me Michael The tip that Jason gave me when I was trying to make windows was to put some liquid (not thick) super glue either on a piece of scrap plasticard or in the lid of a milk container and use a tooth pick. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted April 5, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2013 Here are the handrails on my hoppers; not the neatest when viewed up close like this but absolutely fine at normal viewing angles. BR built 21 ton hoppers. For the lower horizontal rail, I bent it first and then slid the fittings onto it. By then holding the rail in it's approximate location, you can work out which bracket goes where and which way up it should be orientated. The vertical rail was affixed afterwards. LNER built 20/21 ton hoppers (top handrail looks a bit wonky, must fix that) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted April 5, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 5, 2013 I find those lttle pots of superglue with a brush in the top quite handy as I can brush a thin wipe onto the piece. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelW Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Thank you Jason, I'll be able to get on with that today Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted April 5, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2013 Forgot to add; when I had got the alignment about right, I glued the brackets on first and then the handrails to the hopper sides. Glad they are of assistance Michael, J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted April 5, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2013 Thank you Jason, I'll be able to get on with that today I thought you were supposed to be plastering! No shirking, my boy!!!!! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelW Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Dammit. Caught. Sorry m'lud Still prepping for the plastering, currently taping up the joists and finding lots of air flow. I wouldn't mind but it's coming up the back of the kitchen plasterboard. No wonder it gets so cold in there! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyb_imp Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Jason Those hopper wagons look mighty fine Everything I see here just adds to my ever growing wish list Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted April 5, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2013 Dammit. Caught. Sorry m'lud Still prepping for the plastering, currently taping up the joists and finding lots of air flow. I wouldn't mind but it's coming up the back of the kitchen plasterboard. No wonder it gets so cold in there! Was the house advertised as possessing "air conditioning" when you bought it? If so, you can't complain!! Jeff ps. maybe you've got mice.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichaelW Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 No, no mention of air conditioning or plasterboard tents on the particulars... Well, I've finished my first attempt at plastering, and it'll just about do. Still more to do, but that will have to wait till after lunch, and perhaps a trip to B&Q. Looking forward to getting some moisture in the house, it's been so dry even the mice have packed up and gone... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Here are the handrails on my hoppers; not the neatest when viewed up close like this but absolutely fine at normal viewing angles. BR built 21 ton hoppers. For the lower horizontal rail, I bent it first and then slid the fittings onto it. By then holding the rail in it's approximate location, you can work out which bracket goes where and which way up it should be orientated. The vertical rail was affixed afterwards. LNER built 20/21 ton hoppers (top handrail looks a bit wonky, must fix that) Lovely job there Jason, I will send you my half built / half cocked up one and the unstarted one. I gave up. Bodged again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted April 5, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 5, 2013 There's another Spot The Difference on my thread now, although I do give the game away a bit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 I thought I'd wake the lounge up before Bodgit does. I've spent today still trying to work out why my loco fails to run on DCC but does on DC. Everything is right and it still refuses to behave, so I've given up for the moment. I did spend some of my day planning Waddon Marsh. I'm just trying to work out the best way to model a 68cm wooden platform. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted April 6, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 6, 2013 I thought I'd wake the lounge up before Bodgit does. I've spent today still trying to work out why my loco fails to run on DCC but does on DC. Everything is right and it still refuses to behave, so I've given up for the moment. I did spend some of my day planning Waddon Marsh. I'm just trying to work out the best way to model a 68cm wooden platform. Duncan Duncan - I assume the loco is chipped and is running ok on address 0? What's happening on DCC? No Bodgit at all - getting a bit concerned that he's ok. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Jeff It ran perfectly on DC, fitted a DCC socket and decoder and had a refusal. Stripped and cleaned it, ran perfectly on DC, tried DCC and refused again. Tried a decoder from a running loco and still refused so tried the new on in the working loco and no problems. Replaced the socket to eliminate that and still no go. Even had my test meter on it and it shows exactly the same values as the working one. I've also had it on the programming track and I can read the decoder every time. I've walked away from it again today and won't be touching it tomorrow as I have other things to do. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted April 6, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 6, 2013 Jeff It ran perfectly on DC, fitted a DCC socket and decoder and had a refusal. Stripped and cleaned it, ran perfectly on DC, tried DCC and refused again. Tried a decoder from a running loco and still refused so tried the new on in the working loco and no problems. Replaced the socket to eliminate that and still no go. Even had my test meter on it and it shows exactly the same values as the working one. I've also had it on the programming track and I can read the decoder every time. I've walked away from it again today and won't be touching it tomorrow as I have other things to do. Duncan Does it run on DC with the chip fitted on address 0. Or won't it do anything with the chip in? Bizarre - the socket seems ok, the chip seems ok. Is the loco a new model or split-chassis? Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Fails to run on address 0 as well. Seems to dislike technology. It's one of my older 47's. I've converted 3 others with the same chassis and don't have any problems with them at all. Duncan - Very confused Lune Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted April 6, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 6, 2013 When you fitted the decoder, did you wrap it in any kind of insulation to avoid shorting....? I recently did this using a bit of electrician's tape in a tender fit B17. The chip programmed ok, but shut down when I tried to use it - too much insulation, thermal cut-out. Replaced the tape, all ok. Probably irrelevant for your situation, but everything else seems ok. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Just left it with the original protective sleeving on. But, as I've said, the decoder works perfectly on another loco. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted April 7, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2013 I have been having DCC 'fun' too, re-addressing all my locos from 2 to 4 digit codes. Well, I say all but what I should say is most, as a few have the old and crap Hornby and Bachmann chips in which for some reason, don't want to accept the four digit addresses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted April 7, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 7, 2013 Duncan have you got an ammeter you can check the current draw on DC it could be the motor is drawing a high current (bad motor or stiff gears) and the chip is switching off to protect itself. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Fails to run on address 0 as well. Seems to dislike technology. It's one of my older 47's. I've converted 3 others with the same chassis and don't have any problems with them at all. Duncan - Very confused Lune Just a thought, The Gaugemaster Prodigy WILL NOT READ 0, it only reads 1 to 999, although it will let you code it to 0 as I found out, and you cannot use the Prodigy to recode it if it has gone to 0. I had a similar problem with my 8F, I hit 0 instead of 8 when I codded it, I eventually used my Basic Bachmann EZ to address it to 8, My Sound O Gauge locos will NOT run on analog and SWD said I needed to re code to 0 but I am NOT going to do that. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Physicsman Posted April 7, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2013 I have been having DCC 'fun' too, re-addressing all my locos from 2 to 4 digit codes. Well, I say all but what I should say is most, as a few have the old and crap Hornby and Bachmann chips in which for some reason, don't want to accept the four digit addresses. I can agree with that sentiment. One of my Brits has a built-in Hornby chip whose address I can't change. Problem with the Brits is they are difficult to dis-assemble, so the chip is staying put... Rather that than damage the model. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Duncan have you got an ammeter you can check the current draw on DC it could be the motor is drawing a high current (bad motor or stiff gears) and the chip is switching off to protect itself. Don Hi Don The motor is drawing less current than the one that works. Confused, I am. Duncan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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