Rob Pulham Posted November 27, 2017 Author Share Posted November 27, 2017 This afternoon saw the injectors fitted and all the bits assembled. Finally a couple of the injectors in place although not 100 percent accurate they look the part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 Excellent little loco Rob, love the extras... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 1, 2018 Author Share Posted January 1, 2018 A Happy New Year to all. First a bit of a refresher, those with long memories can skip over this bit. About 8 years ago my good lady became ill and had to give up work. She was fortunate in that she was able to take redundancy and she spent some her redundancy money on a kit for me. I chose the MOK 8F - MOK = Modern Outline Kits available from here MOK I wanted the 8F to build as one of the locos that were ordered by the LNER during the war. My initial plan was to build one of the examples built by the Southern Railway for the LNER but further research since has changed that to become one of those built by the LNER at Darlington. You might ask why - because I wanted a riveted tender and I had already bought spoked wheels. The ones built by the Southern had welded (smooth sided) tenders and most of the LNER built examples had solid wheels as on the tenders of the A3/4's but at least a couple of the Darlington examples had spoked wheels to go with the riveted tender. So mine will now be either 3135 or 3144 Rather embarrassingly I started it around 6 years or more ago and never got anywhere near finishing it. About 18 months ago I had a second bash but still didn't even get the tender finished. Chris has been pointedly asking most of this year when I am going to finish it and I had planned to return to it when I got distracted by the J79 in October. So I made the promise that I would return to it over Christmas and endeavour to get it completed. I thought I would ease back into it with something easy, or so I thought. I started on detailing the backhead a week last Saturday. These are some of the many parts that make it up. I had to make this up from a couple of pieces and I drilled and soldered a spigot to the back to make it easier to attach to the backhead itself. Then the myriad of spaghetti that will be the pipework. Having seen Nick Dunhill's masterpiece a few weeks back I was keen to replicate the gauge glasses that he did. On this particular backhead this entailed cutting off the levers, and then cutting out the rectangle of brass to insert the square perspex later in the build and then reattaching the levers to the sides. These are the almost finished article that has taken just over a week to put together. - Most of the parts are removable to allow the backhead to be painted. Because there are a few much better builds than mine on the forum I am not going to go into the level of detail that I might do normally but just show the key stages as I complete them - the main goal is to get it finished. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 Wow Rob that is seriously impressive. Interesting that the details are removeable. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Because there are a few much better builds than mine on the forum I am not going to go into the level of detail that I might do normally but just show the key stages as I complete them - the main goal is to get it finished. Hi Rob, Don't do yourself down mate. Let's see the whole build. Fantastic work on the back plate. Neat idea making the details detachable for painting. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 Hi Peter, What I have done to date is on this thread - I thought that I had had two goes at it previously but it seems like this is my fourth go From here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6945-rob-pulhams-7mm-workbench-back-to-the-lner-06-mok-8f/?view=findpost&p=786867 here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6945-rob-pulhams-7mm-workbench-back-to-the-lner-06-mok-8f/?p=429891 And here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6945-rob-pulhams-7mm-workbench-back-to-the-lner-06-mok-8f/page-14&do=findComment&comment=1439939 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Simply fantastic Rob, marvellous. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Rob, The back head looks very impressive with all the fittings and pipes. Just as a note though, the extension at the RH side of the main manifold, including the shut off cock with the square headed spindle and the pipes down the back head, are for steam heating and should not be present on an 8F. This is confirmed by pipe and rod drawings and a good photograph in the Wild Swan profile book for the 8F's. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 3, 2018 Author Share Posted January 3, 2018 Rob, The back head looks very impressive with all the fittings and pipes. Just as a note though, the extension at the RH side of the main manifold, including the shut off cock with the square headed spindle and the pipes down the back head, are for steam heating and should not be present on an 8F. This is confirmed by pipe and rod drawings and a good photograph in the Wild Swan profile book for the 8F's. Dave. Hi Dave, I had just noted that photo in the Wild Swan book myself last night. I was pondering on what the extra pipework would have been for and had come to the conclusion that it might be for something BR related which is after the time that I am modelling. You have further confirmed that. Many thanks The good news for me is that the way that I have built it should make it fairly easy to remove the extra pipework. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Hi Peter, What I have done to date is on this thread - I thought that I had had two goes at it previously but it seems like this is my fourth go From here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6945-rob-pulhams-7mm-workbench-back-to-the-lner-06-mok-8f/?view=findpost&p=786867 here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6945-rob-pulhams-7mm-workbench-back-to-the-lner-06-mok-8f/?p=429891 And here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6945-rob-pulhams-7mm-workbench-back-to-the-lner-06-mok-8f/page-14&do=findComment&comment=1439939 Many thanks Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 I am having a little more one step forward and two back with this build and it’s my own silly fault. In my eagerness to crack on I hadn’t noticed a photo in the Wild Swan LMS Loco profiles book on the 8F’s that shows the inside of the cab and more importantly the backhead. - see Dave Hol's post above. I am thanking myself in that I took the extra time and effort to make most of the parts removable because that will make redoing it much easier. This shows how the parts are removable Below is a crop of the cab photo in the Wild Swan book. The photo is credited to the National Railway Museum and is used here purely to illustrate the differences between what I have done and what I should have done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 4, 2018 Author Share Posted January 4, 2018 Although there are glaring gaps in the instructions, one part is explicit, that of forming the smokebox and boiler. The boiler comes pre rolled and according to the instructions so does the smokebox inner but mine wasn't. That wasn't an issue and I soon had it rolled. Now for the 'I'm a dummy' bit, the instructions are quite explicit about using two of the formers for the x71 and x72 (sorry I can't remember if the preceding number is 1 or 3). Leaving x70 to go in the smaller end of the boiler. Because they all look identical (but aren't Grrr) I managed to pick up the wrong one and only discovered my error when I had it all nicely soldered together.My only saving grace was that I discovered the error (part x70 is slightly bigger than x71/x72) before I soldered the other wrong bit (x70) into the smokebox). At 11:15 on Tuesday night I didn't have the headspace to sort it out so I went to bed. This morning I set to and using a pointed scalpel and gentle heat from the micro flame I slowly worked my way around easing the boiler away from the former with regular quenching to take it out and replace it with part x70. Thankfully I got away with it, in part I think due to the fact that I had soldered it in initially using the microflame to chase around a tiny amount of solder which meant that although it was held very securely it was easy to break the bond from the thin layer of solder. This is the boiler and smokebox assembly after my recovery. Those with sharp eyes will not the piece of scrap protruding from the front of the smokebox. There is a clever bit of the etch designed to ensure that you get everything lined up by inserting a piece of scrap into a slot etched into each of the three forward formers I left it longer than suggested and used it to view down through all the apertures in the boiler top. In fact I left it in place as I soldered on the castings on top of the boiler. To solder these cleanly I flattened a couple of small bit's of 145 solder in some pliers, placed them either side of the chimney opening after using a taper broach to open the hole up to take the spigot from the casting as tightish fit. a squirt of flux and then I place the chimney on top ensuring that it was square I heated the casting with the microflame until the solder melted allowing the casting to sink into place. - Repeated for the next casting (which I have to be honest and say I have no idea of the name or purpose of it). At this point the Firebox, boiler and smoke box are all a nice tight push fit I won't make it more permanent until I am happy with everything. Finally, I had fitted the cab roof on Tuesday but I still need to sort out the subframe under the floor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 5, 2018 Author Share Posted January 5, 2018 Mind the Gap, the age old saying on the railways. Mine was a little more fundamental - the curve of the footplate under the cab was not anything like the curve of the cab sides Because I didn't have the benefit of the updated instructions that Mark kindly shared with me after and enquiry over on Western Thunder (I have emailed Dave Sharp to ask for a set of the updated instructions) I had previously added the cab front overlays and soldered all around the seams. This meant that tucking the front of the curved section up under the top layer of the cab front as advised in the updated instructions wasn't to my mind - I worked on the theory that if I tried to remove the thin overlay I would irreparably damage it. That left the alternative which was cut/file the front section down so that it sits just below the footplate rather than tucked in behind the front plate and to desolder and file down the sub frames until the curve better matched that of the sides of the cab. As you are looking at it, it took two goes at desoldering, filing down, before resoldering to test the fit for the left hand subframe and six goes for the right hand subframe. At each desoldering I carefully cleaned up before filing a little more off. You may wonder why I resoldered at each test, it was because I couldn't hold it in close enough proximity to accurately check the fit when trying to hold all the parts while they were I have to say that had I continued with the build to this point when I started back in 2011 or so, I would never have had the confidence to desolder and resolder the same part so many times to get the fit that I wanted. I would never have been happy with it either. The slight gap on the right hand in this view will close up when I solder it all in but I am triple checking all is right before taking the final step. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Further work over the weekend has seen it start to look like a loco at long last. At the moment all except the cab, the reversing lever and it's housing are just sat in place and are held by the firm fit of the components. - The sand shields are just lent in place because I need to drill them yet for the sandbox fillers. I am slightly surprised that they don't have at least some semblance of a hole etched in them given how well everything else is portrayed. I also need to drill and put a self tapper in the top of the cab face of the firebox to close up the very slight gap on the drivers side before I solder it in place. The instructions suggest doing this but I thought that I had got away without the need until I put everything in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Warren Haywood kindly dropped off my J79 on Tuesday evening having weaved his magic on the paint job. I need to glaze it add the backhead etc. Having checked my reference books I also need to add the loco number the the front buffer beam - neither of us were certain it had one when Warren was doing it and I only checked after the event. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Hi Rob, You made a nice job of that, and Warren's paint job is the icing on the cake. Any reason why you haven't trimmed the 12 BA bolts on the crankpins, or is that on the "to do" list? Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Hi Peter, Yes, there is still quite a bit to do to be honest. I hadn't planned to take it to Warren just yet but as I was going for something else he said bring it along so I did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Although I have made some progress on the chassis, recent minor surgery on my toe has left me struggling with the time/energy to give this the thought that it needs to get the motion assembled so I have been doing a few small jobs on the J6 until my energy returns [/url] [/url] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Lovely work on the 8F Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Cheers John, it's getting there slow...ly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 A few days off over Easter saw me make further progress on the 06. Shaping the curves of the inner tender sides was interesting because in my ignorance I had chopped off one end of the etch which contained the marked etched bend lines and although I still had the piece that I removed I couldn't realistically realign it. So some careful measuring was in order. I annealed the tops of the sides where the main bend was to be - I did this a couple of times during the process. In order to bend the front curves of the tender sides which were very close to the half etched line for the location of the front bulkhead I soldered in a couple of strips of scrap to stop it bending on the half etched line instead of where I wanted it to. Once happy I soldered in the rear bulkhead and started to add details. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Before going any further I started to make up the bulkheads which are made up from multiple layers. Here the instructions (or my interpretation of them) let me down again and I managed to get the overlay for the top of the front bulkhead out of sequence meaning that I had to cut a section out of it to prevent having to undo a lot of work meaning that it sits around the lockers not behind them (it was quite easy to do with scissors due to it being half etched). It isn't visible in the end result but I know I had to do it. Front Bulkhead Fire Iron Tunnel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 This is what it looks like with the overlays on the body. You get two options included in the kit either welded or riveted. I chose riveted because it adds a little more to the character. These latter two show the front bulkhead now it's fitted and the fire iron tunnel which fitted perfectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 I had a very satisfying session on Friday afternoon finishing of fitting the pickups and getting the J79 for a run out at Shildon on Saturday. After a couple of minor hiccups including a crank pin bush and a wheel retaining stud coming undone she ran successfully in both directions. I do need to look at my springing of the centre axle though as there didn't seem to be any movement at all. I took along a couple of items of rolling stock for a run out too - Connoisseur Midland Milk van and a Dragon S&D Horsebox. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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