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Rob Pulham's 7mm Workbench - Back to the LNER 06 (MOK 8F)


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I have kept this under wraps as I didn't know what sort of a job I had set myself.. but it's turned out not too shabby.

 

My first finished attempt (the A3 is still work in progressroflmao.png) at lined green LNER livery. Done using the combination of Transfers, Bow Pen, Bow Compass, and Peter Spoorer lining pen (Like a Bob Moore but cheaperwink.png). Lot's of experimentation with paint thickness's and a fantastic learning curve. Who would have thought that you could get away with leaving the lid of a can of paint for 2 days let alone that it would make it better to use.....

 

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Brilliant stuff Rob! You have lifted a basic kit to something special.
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Looks really neat Rob, looks like this build will be a long one seeing all those bits.

 

I bet Paul didn't think that it would be this long when he made the comment above.

 

Well just over 12months on, I have returned to this build.

 

Last night I cleaned up the castings for the slide bars/cross heads and finished soldering the wrappers to the cylinders - having just had a re-read of Tony's build I should have soldered the castings in before putting the wrapper around. Anyway I managed to get the castings on the fronts of the cylinders without too much trouble and I plan to assemble the motion brackets and test fit before finally soldering the slide bars to the cylinders.

 

Here is a few shots of where I got to...

 

LNER06crossheads001.jpg

 

LNER06crossheads002.jpg

 

LNER06crossheads003.jpg

 

LNER06crossheads004.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I didn't get any modelling done last week but since then I have made some steady progress on the 06

 

I have done a bit more at the chassis

 

LNER06001-2.jpg

 

Next up was the front bogie.

 

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And lastly just before going on holiday I ordered a set of coupling rods etc from Premier which were waiting for me when I got back. I also took the time to make up some of the rods that came with the kit.

 

LNER06004-1.jpg

 

LNER06005-1.jpg

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Although I have been quiet I have not been idle and the 06 moves slowly on.

 

The last few evenings and over the weekend have been spent on the cylinders/slidebars etc.

 

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While it has taken time to get these sorted and the instructions do lack a little in places - I only discovered the cylinder backing pieces by accident while looking for something else.... it is a very enjoyable kit to build and I am learning all the way.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't had much time recently so progress has been a bit intermittant. I have been working my way slowly through the valve gear and following Richard Lambert's example on another forum (not as nice as his efforts though). I have modified some of the bits so that they are a bit more prototypical. I am using the combination of the best bits from the kit and the premier rods. The mods are creating a fork on the ends of radius rod (Premier), creating the forked ends on the union links (MOK)

 

I didn't have any scale hardware nut heads of the right size (and funds are a little tight at the moment) so I made do with just putting a piece of scrap etch in the bottom of the expansion link.

 

Its probably not that visible in the photo but as Richard had to move the oiler from the side to the front on his cast combination lever. Mine being etched didn't have any at all. But a couple of pieces from some 2mm (I think but haven't measured) brass bar have done the trick (to the naked eye at any rate).

 

LNER06-valvegear002.jpg

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In between fiddling about with the valve gear I have also made up the front of the frames. At this point only the laminates of the frame extensions/lifting rings and the frames/cages that support the back of the buffers are soldered. All the rest is just held together with the slots and tabs. It really does make it easy when it all fits as it should and it is self supporting while you apply the solder.

 

LNER06002-2.jpg

 

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Hello Rob,

 

do you have the copy of M.R.J. (108?) that has on of these been built in 4mm. David Jenkinson also did a build of one in 7mm. I thought it was in Modellers Back Track but I cant find it. If you'd like to see the one in M.R.J. let me know.

 

The build is coming along nicely. I'd love to build one of these.

 

OzzyO.

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  • 5 months later...

Very nice Rob, do not forget the bogie checks....

best wishes, Graham

 

 Guess who didn't..... :threaten:

 

 

A couple of weeks ago in between finishing off the bogie van I got this out of the cupboard and started to think seriously about what needed doing to complete it. The first thing was fitting the front bogie I got it and the spring/screw and put it together and discovered the first problem. My lovely home made brake cylinders fouled the bogie and wouldn't allow it to turn at all - a proper Doh!!! moment. Undeterred I unsoldered them and started to cut them back in an effort to get them to sit further back. Several attempts later and there was nothing leftfrown.png

 

So here we are without any brakes but the chassis runs nice and smoothly and goes around curves as best as I can tell in the limits of my layout boards

 

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During the process one of the front springs can adrift at one side so that needs soldering back at some point.

 

The next problem that those with a long memory may recall was that when test running I had to rest a pair of pliers on one side of the tender to get it to run. My first thought was that this was down to a bad contact so I drilled a hole in the tender chassis, tapped it 8BA and soldered in a short length of screw (the end off one that I had shortened for something else - I struggle to throw stuff away thinking as now that they will come in usefulrolleyes.png). You can just see the mark on top of the tender chassis where I filed the paint off to do this. 

 

I then reconnected the tender to the loco and all ran really smoothly. So far so good. however when I fitted the tender body it wouldn't run despite having a much better connection. It did run if I rested a finger on the tender side. Mmmm! I took the tender body off and examined it and realised that with the whitemetal castings that form the corridor connection top the body is top heavy at one side. Because I am using the american method of pick up the weight was lifting the chassis enough to make running intermittent.

 

My thoughts turned to how I could weight it from the inside of the tender body because any weight put into  the tender top under the coal would be central not to one side that I needed.

 

I then thought about swapping the pick up sides on the loco and tender which would mean that the tender picked up from the side with the most weight and in theory it should solve the problem.

 

While all this was going through my mind I took the tender body back off and pondered while running the loco and tender chassis up and down my 4 metres of track. I noticed that the rear most wheels didn't always turn so I applied some oil to all the axles and running improved. It was while messing with this that I noticed that without the body on although the tender chassis ran up and down quite smoothly and appeared to pick up okay there was a pronounced rock between the front and rear axles and it was biased away from the pick up side. Closer examination revealed a bent bit of the chassis that looks like it has been dropped. I don't recall dropping it but I must have because no one else touches them.

 

This is it after a bit of minor straightening with a pair of sooth jawed pliers.

 

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While the tweaking with the pliers hasn't solved the rocking it has made the rear axle run smoothly. So the next task is to strip down the tender chassis and attempt to straighten it. I will try initially without stripping any paint but if that fails it's going to be a back to basics job as I am now determined to get this of the bench once and for all so I can with other things without feeling guilty that it still lurks in the background.

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Today's efforts have been very positive.

 

First I stripped the wheels and axles from the tender chassis and used a couple of 15" or so lengths of 3/16 round bar through the front and rear axle bushes to twist the chassis until it felt better. 

 

I tried in the front and rear axles but it still didn't sit square on my pane of glass so a little more tweaking was in order. Once I was satisfied I tried the tender chassis behind the loco just with the front and rear axles fitted. All ran smoothly so I loosely fitted the tender top. Astonishingly it moved under it's own power without hiccup although the loco wheels did slip a bit. I popped a lump of lead sheet across the front of the frames to stop this during testing. 

 

The next step was to fit the two middle axles and try again with the tender top loosely fitted. It ran even better.

 

Lastly I bit the bullet and fastened the tender top and on thankfully it seems that is one problem solved.

I was so elated that I took a video which I will post as soon as the camera battery charges.

 

Next up I tried the boiler/footplate on and discovered that it wouldn't fit over the Maxon motor. Out with the mini drill and a drum sander which made short work of it. I still need a little fine tuning then I hope to have her running with the boiler in place.
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Here is the promised video of the successful run after tweaking the tender chassis.

 

 

Apologies for the dodgy soundtrack.

 

Tonight I plan to shoot another with the boiler and cab in place - a taste of things to come when she's finished.

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Looks terrific Rob, time to extend that test track?

 

 

Hi Hugh,

 

Funny you should say that, I am just in discussions with my good lady about space in the garden next year. Which if t comes to fruition will give me a bout a 40' run. It will be an out and back but still much more than I have now.

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Rob,   Those video's are spot on, showing the loco at her best, and doesn't she run nice, what lining have you got planned for her ?

 

George..

 

Hi George,  

 

She does thanks.

 

I plan fully lined LNER green. The plan is to do the lining by bow pen/lining pen rather than transfers although I may make some home made decals for the boiler bands - that seems to be what the professionals recommend.

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