RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Either way, I still have at least 400g on the roll..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Geoffers - you asked about the solder i'm using... Well this is the label, no idea whether what it says is good or bad. IMAG4964.jpg Yep - that's solder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 To be honest I'd love to do a 7mm British layout (based on an Essex prototype). Unfortunately it's just not on due to all the current issues with sourcing "stuff" from the UK (like, everything, man). Space is not an issue either which makes it doubly frustrating. So, go for it. Commit to it totally. I'll watch with interest, of course! Best, Pete. Pete, Is it importing the white Essex stilettos you're having problems with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Yep - that's solder. Appears to melt when heated and I know that's good.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 10, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Geoffers - you asked about the solder i'm using... Well this is the label, no idea whether what it says is good or bad. IMAG4964.jpg Looks like standard electrical solder, unsure as to whether or not it's leaded or lead free. SS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Looks like standard electrical solder, unsure as to whether or not it's leaded or lead free. SS I think it was leaded - bought a good 5+ years back (when Treneglos was at Warley) and there was all that fuss about lead free solder. Fred advised me to get a big roll while it was still available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Cook Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 I think it was leaded - bought a good 5+ years back (when Treneglos was at Warley) and there was all that fuss about lead free solder. Fred advised me to get a big roll while it was still available. Usually quoted as 60/40 that's approximately 60% tin to 40% lead also contains flux, melting point 183deg C Most common use for electrical wiring, Obviously Fred was following the panic by others when lead free was introduced, which was the same for the Millenium bug a load of hot air, it's still available Their are betters choices for doing kit building, Carrs 188deg Carrs 140deg the one that C&L made everybody panic about There is now a 100deg solder from Carrs /C&L which is far better than the old 70 deg solder for soldering white metal to white metal or brass and you don't have to pre tin the brass with a higher temp solder to get a secure joint Being that you have got 400 grams of 60/40 that's a lot of layout wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Cook Posted February 10, 2014 Share Posted February 10, 2014 Appears to melt when heated and I know that's good.... Yes it does at 183 deg which will be hard to use when the amount of metal you have assembled becomes larger and becomes a bigger heat sink You need to use solder of different melting points ( step soldering ) which means you can overcome the heat loss by using a lower melting point solder especially when adding detail, You also need to do this when soldering small parts together attaching the latter bits with a lower temp solder so that the original parts that you have soldered dont fall apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Usually quoted as 60/40 that's approximately 60% tin to 40% lead also contains flux, melting point 183deg C Most common use for electrical wiring, Obviously Fred was following the panic by others when lead free was introduced, which was the same for the Millenium bug a load of hot air, it's still available Their are betters choices for doing kit building, Carrs 188deg Carrs 140deg the one that C&L made everybody panic about There is now a 100deg solder from Carrs /C&L which is far better than the old 70 deg solder for soldering white metal to white metal or brass and you don't have to pre tin the brass with a higher temp solder to get a secure joint Being that you have got 400 grams of 60/40 that's a lot of layout wiring Thank you for that explanation. Do I get any extra 'making life harder on myself' points for using it to build brass kits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Yes it does at 183 deg which will be hard to use when the amount of metal you have assembled becomes larger and becomes a bigger heat sink You need to use solder of different melting points ( step soldering ) which means you can overcome the heat loss by using a lower melting point solder especially when adding detail, You also need to do this when soldering small parts together attaching the latter bits with a lower temp solder so that the original parts that you have soldered dont fall apart Sounds like I should really be getting double 'making life hard for myself' points for the clay wagon then! I've just had a look through the box of soldering bits and bobs i have and i've got two packets of different solder from Hobby Holidays. The first is 179deg solder with 2% silver The second is 145 deg solder I'm assuming that using these would be a better idea?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted February 10, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2014 Though I know didley-squat about solder, brass kits and the like, I do know about the Millennium Bug, and it was certainly not hot air. The use of only two digits to store the year value, in thousands of computer programs and applications could have caused countless problems from the banal to the deadly serious. The effort, world-wide, by un-named and largely ridiculed programmers to prevent such disasters goes largely unthanked - had the work not been done there would have been a public outcry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Grrrrr. Templot 1 - Spams 1 Trying to master the transition curve functions. Have watched the tutorials and still get invalid command no matter what I seem to try doing with the two curves and where they are placed. Decided to wind up Worzle Gummage (Paul) instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 10, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 10, 2014 The 60/40 solder should be ok for doing the basic joints and then use the 145 for adding detail. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Can you not jsut "do it by eye" there doesnt look that much to cast an eye over ? :S Probably - but I'd quite like to know how to do it in the program. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 The 60/40 solder should be ok for doing the basic joints and then use the 145 for adding detail. Don Thanks Don Just seen the prices of 500g rolls of solder - its shot up in price - I seem to recall buying the 60/40 for around £10. I have detail bits to do on the Toad E at some stage so will have a crack at using the 145. Thinking about it, there were a fair few sub assemblies on the clay wagon (brake thingies and door bangs) that I could have done with the 60/40 off-model and then added using 145. That would probably reduced the colourful choice of words somewhat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 10, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2014 Fairt nuff...I see your thoughts I msut be getting to old to learn new things I'm on a mission Mickey, one that's teaching me some new 'choice' words... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 You might want to try a resistance soldering iron if your budget can run to it. These things don't take the place of conventional soldering but complement them and are ideal for details. You need solder paste for these though. others may disagree and some people don't get on with them. However I wouldn't be without mine. It's one of those tools you don't often use but you are really glad you have them when needed. Rolling bars are another. Paul R 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexible_coupling Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 You don't "need" solder paste to compliment an RSU - but I expect it helps! I've been working with conventional 60/40 flux-cored electrical solder, tinning carefully cleaned brass before using my home-made RSU and the results are fine... applying flux with a fine brush is very helpful if you're going that way. I am actually investing in some solder paste and some lower-melting-temperature solid solder to help out my process - you can cut down a tree with a junior hacksaw, but having the right tools sure do make it quicker, cleaner and easier. Moral of the story.... um...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Pete, Is it importing the white Essex stilettos you're having problems with? It's a (little) known fact that what Essex is to England, New Jersey is to the USA................. Seriously I resent the way that shipping/postal costs have shot through the roof, Internationally, in the last couple of years whilst the actual service seems to have got worse. If you look at O Gauge Finescale over here (or P48) you are met by a wall of "you make the mistakes we did and you will learn" which is fine but I'm running short of time for all that. I must note that there are some wonderful people who are exceptions to this rule......and I'll name them if anyone asks. The difference of 1/48 to what is it: 1/43 (?) and Bullhead to Flatbottom means that one is also shipping pieces of steel over the Atlantic. I often wonder whether 2 rail finescale in the USA would be in better shape if Lionel ceased to exist. I've been enjoying the discussion on "solder" and it's use on your thread - it's way more complicated than I thought. Best, Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 11, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2014 Ok folks have I been dreaming or is there a thread somewhere on this site showing an alternative way of making Vs for common crossings involving bending a length of rail in half and then filing both sides down? I've run lots of different searchs, been pointed to lots of other fine threads but not found the one I'm looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 11, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2014 Bending would lead to distortion, so I would not recommend going down that route. What problems are you experiencing making a crossing V? Also sent PM on another topic. Thanks Paul, I'm not having any problems (yet) but was going to try a few of the different techniques i'd seen to see which I get best get on with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debs. Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 (edited) Ok folks have I been dreaming or is there a thread somewhere on this site showing an alternative way of making Vs for common crossings involving bending a length of rail in half and then filing both sides down? I've run lots of different searchs, been pointed to lots of other fine threads but not found the one I'm looking for. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37678-handbuilt-track/page-2 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/49161-first-attempt-at-handbuilt-track-a-complete-novice%E2%80%99s-experience/ Edited February 11, 2014 by Debs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 11, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2014 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/37678-handbuilt-track/page-2 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/49161-first-attempt-at-handbuilt-track-a-complete-novice%E2%80%99s-experience/ That's the method I remembered - thanks Debs, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 11, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 11, 2014 Bending would lead to distortion, so I would not recommend going down that route. What problems are you experiencing making a crossing V? Also sent PM on another topic. Thank you for the info on the other topic, much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted February 12, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2014 Good morning peeps. Another Wednesday and another train to Glasgow. Yipee. Keep thinking that I should put together a mini modelling kit for use in evenings at hotels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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