Buckjumper Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) Or make the roof like a snuff box lid - see page 15 of the Connoisseur QMBV instructions. The four mini bulkheads are an interference fit inside the verandah and cabin ends, so the roof stays in place without the need for further mechanical fixing or glue. They also avoid any unintentional gaps between roof and body. http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Wagon%20Kit%20Pages/Queen%20Mary%20Instructions%20print%20off%20pdf.pdf Edited October 27, 2014 by Buckjumper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 27, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 27, 2014 How about an elastic band fixed to the floor and put over a hook fixed to the roof ? Or hooks under the roof and wire passed through holes in the floor which is twisted together ? Or tiny rod shaped magnets in each of the four corner posts with suitable plates fixed under each corner ? Or a piece of Lego fixed to each side of the roof and a matching piece above each of the side windows ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 Thanks all for the suggestions. It was getting the roof to sit down flush with the veranda ends that was my concern. Think I'll make up some curved formers to start with, so at least the roof is the right radius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 27, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 27, 2014 On my railmoter the builder fitted a bolt shank into the roof vent which screws into a crossmember fixed to the body. Undoing two roof vents releases the roof. The same might be possible with the stove chimney. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Could you make the stove integral with the roof and just screw the stove body to the floor? (having done proper profiling formers, of course) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 Tonight I have mostly been resisting the urge to have a play with the 1366 motor and gearbox. Instead I've been working on the Toad E roof. First of all I soldered on a central rib from scrap etch. Then I made up some curved ribs. The end profile was scribed on to some more scrap and the curve cut and filed to shape. Then I fixed six short sections of brass bar to the roof. These were positioned to fit between the body side turn-ins. That stopped the roof moving side to side. Then some scrap etch was soldered to the top of the bar to make an L shaped 'catch'. Luckily the catches engaged on one side by sliding the roof into place with a slight sideways move. That left just the other dide's rail needing notches cutting. Hopefully the photo below explains better: The roof is placed on, offset to one end: Then slid home to engage the catches on the body side rail. The whole lot holds together pleasingly well. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 And a view from the inside. You can just about see the catches. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Blimey that's both simple, clever & neat. I'll be pinching that idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 Blimey that's both simple, clever & neat. I'll be pinching that idea. I can't claim the idea as my own as I'm sure it's been done before but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 The next pondering concerns the whitemetal J hangers. These are fixed to the rear of the solebars but doing so locks the fixed and compensated wheel sub-assemblies in place. That will make painting tricky won't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 27, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 27, 2014 Neat solution Chris. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted October 27, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 The next pondering concerns the whitemetal J hangers. These are fixed to the rear of the solebars but doing so locks the fixed and compensated wheel sub-assemblies in place. That will make painting tricky won't it? Paint (or blacken) the axleguard/brake sub-assemblies first? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 Paint (or blacken) the axleguard/brake sub-assemblies first? Having the sub-assemblies still removable helps with access to the under-gubbins, buffers and couplings. I'm toying with fixing the J hangers to the sub-assemblies rather than the solebars. That will be another minor mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 Talking of under-gubbins - the kit looks a bit naked in the brake pulls etc department. Anyone know what should be under there? Surely something attached to the brake standard in the van. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 27, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 27, 2014 A Google images search has found me this outline drawing: My reading is that the majority of the brake pulls are hidden between the solebars. Next stop, Paul Bartlett's site... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 It is a bit over simplistic. the pull rod brake standard arrangement would put one brake on and one off. Gives you the basic idea though. I would imagine there were two v hangers one just off longitudinal centre away from brake standard, and one outside the brake standard, which will be to one side, then the brake pull would be double ended with one end above the cross shaft and one below, this would be on the centre line, There would then be a lever to rotate the cross shaft from the brake standard. The arrangement of levers and rods look ok apart from the vertical lever the pull rods are attached to. these should be hung from the underside of the floor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 28, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2014 The problem with under-gubbins is that it is generally in the dark in photos, nothing more than hints of outlines. Looks like this will be quite a heavy van, well over the 1g per mm length advised by the GOG. I'm guessing a good 300g by the time it's finished. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted October 28, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2014 Having the sub-assemblies still removable helps with access to the under-gubbins, buffers and couplings. I'm toying with fixing the J hangers to the sub-assemblies rather than the solebars. That will be another minor mod. Not sure from the photo, does one of the axleguard sub-assemblies pivot to give some compensation? If it does you'll (obviously) need to leave a gap between J hanger and axlegaurd to allow them to move. Are the springs/axleboxes attached to the axleguard or to the solebars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 28, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) Brake Vans used to have extra weight to increase the braking power so it quite prototypical. The trouble is we don't have a little man to adjust the brake to keep the train running steady. In model form the concern is the effect on lightweight vehicles in front. Provided very light vehcles have some added weight it shouldn't be too much of a problem. I don't think you have any sharp curves which is where problems often show. Don Also regarding the brake gear one possibilty is two rods both pushing or pulling fixed to the opposite ends of a short arm. The action of the handle will cause the rod on which the arm is mounted to turn either pushing or pulling the rods. Edited October 28, 2014 by Donw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 28, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2014 Not sure from the photo, does one of the axleguard sub-assemblies pivot to give some compensation? If it does you'll (obviously) need to leave a gap between J hanger and axlegaurd to allow them to move. Are the springs/axleboxes attached to the axleguard or to the solebars? Both units are currently fixed to the chassis using a copper pin. One unit is fixed, the other is compensated. The springs are fixed to the units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 28, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2014 Thinking I'd try & be helpful, I dug out my new copy of GWR Goods Wagons, to look up the Toad E and see what it said about the braking bits. First though, I thought I'd check which GWR diagram the kit was being built as. So after 30 minutes of hunting through this thread (as the otherwise excellent index on Post #1 does not include a link...) I finally found the opening post, #736, page 31. D'oh ! It's an LNER Toad E, so my book is no help at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 28, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2014 Thinking I'd try & be helpful, I dug out my new copy of GWR Goods Wagons, to look up the Toad E and see what it said about the braking bits. First though, I thought I'd check which GWR diagram the kit was being built as. So after 30 minutes of hunting through this thread (as the otherwise excellent index on Post #1 does not include a link...) I finally found the opening post, #736, page 31. D'oh ! It's an LNER Toad E, so my book is no help at all. Just had the same conversation with Old Gringo. You'd think that he'd know better! This got me thinking...why do the LNER and GWR both call their brakes Toads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 28, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2014 The introduction to the 1939 GWR Telegraph Code Book: "To facilitate the transmission of Telegraph Messages, a code of Phrases in common use in telegrams sent on Company's business has been prepared each phrase being represented by a distinctive word, and that word only to be sent instead of the complete phrase which it represents." Most of these were understood by most of the railway companies before 1922 and by all the big four after grouping. See, the book IS useful 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted October 28, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 28, 2014 That's interesting, I'd always assumed that the use of Toad on brake vans from "other" companies was a BR thing, the E suffix indicating it's origin. I note that on some weight diagrams the standard BR brake van has the telegraph code TOADFIT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 28, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 28, 2014 That's interesting, I'd always assumed that the use of Toad on brake vans from "other" companies was a BR thing, the E suffix indicating it's origin. TOAD is dated from 1892-BR as a Goods brake van TOAD A is dated from 1905-1943 as a Goods Brake Van . Vac This became a TOADFIT in 1943 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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