valeofyork Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Has anyone added sprung buffers when using one of the PH designs kits? The Hornby Class 60 or 67 buffers (readily available as spares) appear to be the right type for those 90s in current liveries which are fitted with freight buffers (i.e. everything in active service with DB and FL). What about cab interiors? How about the Hornby HST cab interior? Anyone tried fitting those to a 90? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 The buffers will be an easy fit with a few modifications. For the cab I suggest using what Hornby has provided, it'll just need a lick of paint.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Hi Ian. I'm not an AC fan, but I am a fan of this type of work. A very interesting read, I just lost half an hour reading through your thread and am glad I did. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
valeofyork Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 The buffers will be an easy fit with a few modifications. For the cab I suggest using what Hornby has provided, it'll just need a lick of paint.... Anyone got a view on whether class 60 or class 67 buffers would be best for this? They look very slightly different, but it's difficult to tell which is closest to the correct type for the 90s. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Thank you Sean, glad you found 30 minutes of interest! Hopefully there might be another ten minutes or so til I am done! Ian Hi Ian. I'm not an AC fan, but I am a fan of this type of work. A very interesting read, I just lost half an hour reading through your thread and am glad I did. Cheers. Sean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 I had wanted to fit sprung buffers to the original Hornby chassis, I bought some oval A1 ones but found that I would need to remove a lot of waxy plastic. Then the new kit from PH Designs, a quick neat way to provide the 90 with its skirt, well cast in resin with integral buffer shanks. Personally I reckon it would be a challenge to fit Hornby's plastic shank to the resin, I think it would also take some precise drilling to remove enough resin to fit the replacements. That said I will try to dig out my A1 ones and see if that is worth the extra effort. I am thinking a metal unassembled shank can be secured and any excess glue removed. My experience of Hornby' 50, 56 and 60 havent been the best 50 severe turning, 56 just fell out really and 60 mix of both (12 locos in all) and would be reluctant to progress that route for the reasons given. Ian Has anyone added sprung buffers when using one of the PH designs kits? The Hornby Class 60 or 67 buffers (readily available as spares) appear to be the right type for those 90s in current liveries which are fitted with freight buffers (i.e. everything in active service with DB and FL). What about cab interiors? How about the Hornby HST cab interior? Anyone tried fitting those to a 90? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Not so sure on easy fit Jerry! Images to follow.... Ian The buffers will be an easy fit with a few modifications. For the cab I suggest using what Hornby has provided, it'll just need a lick of paint.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Not so sure on easy fit Jerry! Images to follow.... Ian Probably depends on what type of buffer is used. As you said the A1 pieces and Hornby ones will be different Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Any news on the pantograph Ian? I have a feeling it'll be a good seller because there is no kit/RTR one now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Sorry not yet, got to order some nickel silver wire, having a stock of every size other than what's needed. The weather, gardening and a family member staying with us from the USA has caused a hiatous. Ian Any news on the pantograph Ian? I have a feeling it'll be a good seller because there is no kit/RTR one now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 Sorry not yet, got to order some nickel silver wire, having a stock of every size other than what's needed. Ian Gotta be very irritating when that happens Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 The PH Designs buffer beam and air dam fairing. I am thinking of adding a shim of strip to create the lip on the bottom of the fairing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
valeofyork Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 For the Anglia examples, how about the Replica Railways EMU rubbing plate and drophead buckeye? Anyone tried these? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Hi valeofyork, Thanks for looking back in, my example is to be a grubby traffic worn triple grey freightliner example. I dont think it would take much to mark and drill two fixing holes for the Replica models rubbing plate. Ian For the Anglia examples, how about the Replica Railways EMU rubbing plate and drophead buckeye? Anyone tried these? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 29, 2013 Share Posted July 29, 2013 I am thinking of adding a shim of strip to create the lip on the bottom of the fairing I was going to suggest the same. You can use a very fine piece of card or plasticard and trace it out. You'll just need to cut it a little bit bigger. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 30, 2013 Author Share Posted July 30, 2013 A1 product just needs shawplans etched back plate, which I have is it worth the carving and drilling? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I used the solid A1 buffers and removed the rear ridge. I think the biggest problem you will be stopping the buffers from turning. Should look good though. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 1375218192187.jpg A1 product just needs shawplans etched back plate, which I have is it worth the carving and drilling? If your doing the FL version why are you using the chopped oleo buffers which all other Class 90s have? Don't the FL versions have buffers like a Class 59, 60, 67 etc? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 1375218192187.jpg A1 product just needs shawplans etched back plate, which I have is it worth the carving and drilling? 1375218192187.jpg A1 product just needs shawplans etched back plate, which I have is it worth the carving and drilling? You actually managed to get ahold of an A1 product?! starting to shape up pretty well, ill be interested in following this thread should I decide to do a class 90 NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted July 31, 2013 Author Share Posted July 31, 2013 Jerry, I have a huge stash of parts in various degrees of disorganised storage, these were mearly the first to hand..and as Pete commented the buffer itself is the same. Just a different head. If your doing the FL version why are you using the chopped oleo buffers which all other Class 90s have? Don't the FL versions have buffers like a Class 59, 60, 67 etc? Nick, as for buying some A1 bits, these were bought at York...now considering I have been on a sabbatical, for two years? so to speak. Not sure how long I have had them! You actually managed to get ahold of an A1 product?! starting to shape up pretty well, ill be interested in following this thread should I decide to do a class 90 NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Its a shame that the range wasn't brought out by anyone! NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Few more minutes spent pairing away the support frets. Be nice to see it on top of the loco, if it stays warm and dry maybe time to give a little blast with some primer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Some nicely detailed parts there Ian. Looking forward to seeing this on your 90. It's a shame this isn't produced in 2mm scale as I am still not 100% happy with the replacement Dapol one although it's an improvement on the original. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted August 1, 2013 Author Share Posted August 1, 2013 Meant with the greatest respect, you would have to be potty to attempt to do this in 2mm! Nor I am attempting to be a hero in assembling the kit. They are very nice finely produced parts in 4mm, for 2mm boy they would if retaining their scale appearance be very very erm very delicate. Maybe a lost wax brass one or similar could be possible for those brave or daft enough to want a fine finescale product. Bet Pete has plans to shrink em down...make me look daft with the above statement. Time to get grey!! Some nicely detailed parts there Ian. Looking forward to seeing this on your 90. It's a shame this isn't produced in 2mm scale as I am still not 100% happy with the replacement Dapol one although it's an improvement on the original. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 1375364051406.jpg Few more minutes spent pairing away the support frets. Be nice to see it on top of the loco, if it stays warm and dry maybe time to give a little blast with some primer. Will the final kit be like that or will it be metal? Pete is planning to release these right? And yes...doing the same in 2mm will be a daunting task. I can bet the 4mm one is a pain (Ian you can explain)...2mm will be worse. 2mm needs a nice RTR one. Dapol's efforts are nice but I find it out of scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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