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RMweb
 

Show us your scratchbuilt building


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Ah, the secret weapon!!!! Now, can anyone tell me where I can still get the solvent version of said product?

 

The old spirit based Colron in tins can still be obtained on Ebay and Amazonn. However, certain colours are now obsolete.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

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Ah, the secret weapon!!!! Now, can anyone tell me where I can still get the solvent version of said product? Allmy local stores seem to have the new water-based, namby-pamby, enviro-friendly, H&S type goo, which to be honestI find completely useless when trying to emulate the master himself, the very talented Mr. Allan Downes. How am I ever going to produce quality work if the tree-huggers keeping taking all the good stuff out of our products!!!

 

You have a great eye and a great touch for model-building work, if I may say so.  Look forward to a shot of them in situ.

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This is my very first attempt at scratch building,  I needed a CLASP style building to represent an admin and TOPS office for my ongoing layout

I overlaid perspex with Slaters 2mm planked plasticard and Evergreen strip for the window frames etc and used a piece of wet and dry on the roof to represent roofing felt, I also added some 'Faller' office furniture inside, I may fit lighting yet.

The building didn't turn out quite as good as I had hoped but I don't think it too bad for a first attempt but please let me know what you guy's think.

 

Michael

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I think it's a great first attempt. May I ask what glue you used on the perspex? It obviously hasn't fogged up the windows.

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Hi sorry for the late reply, the glue I used was 'Plastic Magic' applied with a pin flow applicator both from 'Deluxe Materials'

 

Michael

Is it easy to remove from the glazing if you make a mistake or do you just guard against making mistakes full stop? i've never used it but i'm looking to build a similar building to yours and i've been thinking about which glue would be strongest and least damaging.

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I think Plastic Magic is very similar to 'Plastic Weld' and 'Liquid Poly Cement' etc, 

 

I never had a problem with the glue coming into contact with the glazing because I used the pin flow applicator but I think the glue would cause a problem if the glazing got any glue on it.

 

I am using the same glue to build up wagon kits and it seems to have a sort of melting effect on the plastic joints so I would play it safe, the pin flow applicator is ideal for glueing glazing bars, window frames etc onto the glazing.

 

Plastic Magic sets really fast allowing quick progress of building models.

 

I'm sure other members will be far better qualified than me to comment on other adhesives that might be used for your project if you are concerned.

 

Michael

Edited by michaelp
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Bob got that idea from me many years ago when I used 'chad' - computer outcuts - for individual bricks. Somewhere I have photo's where I used 'chad bricks' for the brickwork. If you like I can fish them out and post them later.

 

Cheers.

 

Allan.

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Pic as promised. There are 2 different bonds in the pic,I don't think I will be trying to do a course of header bricks though the accuracy required would be beyond me unless I can come up with something that will give me a half brick every time.

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  • RMweb Gold

Pic as promised. There are 2 different bonds in the pic,I don't think I will be trying to do a course of header bricks though the accuracy required would be beyond me unless I can come up with something that will give me a half brick every time.

You'd need a guillotine arranged so that there was a stop block or edge to push the brick up to.

 

Does Bob not do bags of half bricks?  I'd imagine he would have encountered this problem already.

 

This seems like a mind-numbing task but your results are looking good already.

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Brickwork finished!!! Now all I have to do is do the next lot better! A few errors crept in so I'm not as happy as I could be. I will make a start later on the interior and the windows then the roof last which will have individual slates. I have also tried another bond as a test piece see pics below. Thanks for the interest shown. Steve

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A pic to show the first window don't know if I will keep it yet it might improve when weathered,at least I think so. Unlike messers Robinson and Downes I,m not the best at buildings and I dislike making windows and doors. I guess its a case of practice makes if not perfect then better.

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  • RMweb Gold

Looks great.

 

Unless you're on a mission to scratchbuild every last bit, I don't see why you can't buy ready made windows in brass or plastic.

 

 

BTW have you thought about assembling your buildings horizontally?  I'm sure it would be easier than sticking them to the wall.  :jester:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have started on the goods shed which is based on the one at Richmond N.E.R. station. I have made the basic shells of the office and one part of the shed there is another warehouse to build yet(no mount board left). All of the office.goods shed and warehouse will be covered in individual bricks. I have no idea how long it will take or how many bricks it will take!!! At a guess a LONG TIME and MANY MANY bricks. I will keep you posted if sanity allows

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  • RMweb Gold

Here are two of my latest projects. First one is a waiting room for the up platform. I constructed it using the wooden panels left over from the Ratio signal box which I modified in an earlier post on this thread. I added Balsa wood frames, etched windows left over from the Churchward signal box etch kit and used Ratio doors. modeled interior with advertising boards, heater, benches, people and working LED light. Roof was York Modelmakers slate tile. Finishing touches included signs, notice boards and weathering.

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