cornish trains jez Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 I have decided that my chosen loco will be 90012 "Royal Anglian Regiment" in Greater Anglian livery as in the photo below. http://www.flickr.com/photos/46341292@N05/8191964196/in/photolist-dtTXy1-7Cn2sh-a1NYSE-bx1jp7-bEyJNA-bTtskk-boWALt-8brUps-bKYWo4-bTtnHD-dssbat-boWzEH-bKYWag-bopoNi-bKYWUF-bTHuLR-8j1tdR-8SBG4Z-8SBFVv-8SF3mN-bx5dtW-dXotsg-cdWzZo-bdjrHM-8SBNCc-8SETpd-8SBNLz-9yo8C9-bvJd4U-bKV2s6-bdjsfe-auYh2L-bx1jeU-dXu9sQ-bKYWFv-dXb1w6-bWy6gR-cdDSsu-bTHuAp-agRwXG-dXb1xM-butUTY-bvJdmb-ccmvE7-bJCZVB-butVa1-bENJDs-bUZg4B-bUZgw2-bx5eGW-bx5eXY Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Nice nameplate on that one. I went to Ipswich last June and photographed about 10 of the 15 in a few hours! I'll see if I've got any hi-res shots of 012 that may come in useful. Though for me, if I was doing an Anglian 90 it'd have to be in 'one' livery. It looked great! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Nice nameplate on that one. I went to Ipswich last June and photographed about 10 of the 15 in a few hours! I'll see if I've got any hi-res shots of 012 that may come in useful. Though for me, if I was doing an Anglian 90 it'd have to be in 'one' livery. It looked great! Thanks for that. Any photos you have of this loco would be of great help. I'll have to get the nameplates produced by Shawplan and hopefully precision labels will do the transfers. The One livery was certainly colourful but I prefer the slightly toned down version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Ok, so here are the light cluster inserts. I produced these from 0.5mm thick plasticard. Firstly a template was made by drawing round the front of the loco and then cutting to shape. A little bit of careful filing was carried out to get a more or less accurate shape. Then a second was produced using this template. They will form the inserts above and below the opening for the light clusters. The picture below shows both parts while the third piece of plasticard is the back on which the light clusters will sit. It is about 1.55cm wide and fits nicely into the loco shell. My plan is to carefully drill out the light sockets once the clusters are glued in place to make way for the LED's. I have decided to convert the loco to DCC and have directional lighting (although this part will be done by a professional as I'm not confident in wiring this up myself or milling down the chassis to make way for the DCC chip). I now just need to shorten the depth of the first two parts in the photo to the correct depth and then make another piece of plastic to secure the nose grill of the etch to. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 The only part that will not be true to the prototype for an Anglian liveried loco will be the nose grill as the etch is the straight grills rather than the V shaped ones which I think were added during their virgin trains days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 I really like the approach you're taking with this. Well thought out, it should look spot on when it's done! I found out tonight that removing the Virgin logos from Dapol mk3's is pretty straightforward, if you fancied running an EWS 90 with unbranded Virgin stock which wasn't uncommon just after they switched over to Anglia. Have a look at my layout thread for pics (shameless plug!!) http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/74250-wakefield-westgate-in-n/ Oh and I had a quick scan of my flickR account, turns out I did see 90012 last year when I was in Ipswich. http://www.flickr.com/photos/ash_3939/7428080344/ Not the best photo as I was on the wrong platform (I should have been on the side the photo you posted was taken from!), but a few useful things to note on it; * The buffers are slightly unusually finished with the white edging * The grille style has changed on GA locos, not sure when this happened? * You'll need to commission the transfers too, the font for the numbers is non-standard and you'll obviously need the Greater Anglia logo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 24, 2013 Author Share Posted July 24, 2013 Thanks for posting that. All these extra little details will help bring the model together. I'm not sure yet if I'll build a layout for this loco but knowing me I'll be putting plans together for one!! However, not sure if want to have 2 layouts on the go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ash39 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 No reason why you can't run it on another layout, the real things go up to Crewe for major overhauls so you could drag it with a diesel of some description and make out it's on a detour! The grills were definitely a GA change, this photo (not mine) shows them with slatted grills in 2007 - http://www.flickr.com/photos/calumhepplewhite/5282411783/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 No reason why you can't run it on another layout, the real things go up to Crewe for major overhauls so you could drag it with a diesel of some description and make out it's on a detour! The grills were definitely a GA change, this photo (not mine) shows them with slatted grills in 2007 - http://www.flickr.com/photos/calumhepplewhite/5282411783/ Good find on that photo. Unfortunately I can't get away with a drag to Crewe as my current layout project is based on Par station on the Cornish mainline. Layout thread here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/70745-par-station-cornwall-in-2mmfs/ Looks like I may have to build another layout at some stage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted July 25, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2013 You might want to try and get hold of the TPM upgrade kit as well as it looks as though there are some bits in it not covered by the PH Designs etches. Bernie's notes also cover some useful details on re-profiling the roof (which is too squat on the model). Cheers, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 You might want to try and get hold of the TPM upgrade kit as well as it looks as though there are some bits in it not covered by the PH Designs etches. Bernie's notes also cover some useful details on re-profiling the roof (which is too squat on the model). Cheers, Mike Thanks Mike. I've just checked Bernards website and it looks like this may be discontinued. I'll PM him to see if there is a chance of getting hold of one as the kit contains the side grills and new side window frames. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 What are your thoughts on painting the etch? Do you think I should paint the etch, attach the acetate, then glue the whole thing into position. Or, should I glued the etch, paint and then glue in the acetate. Leaving the light cluster fitting till last. Any thoughts would be welcome. Best regards, Jeremy 1) build up the entire housing for the lights etc. (both ends) 2) remove the paint, prime it then paint the loco.... 3) run a small grill bit over the etched grill so that it gets a nice curve 4) paint the etched grill 5) add the clear plastic lenses 6) fit it into it's slot and doing the remaining touching up (filler, sanding, partial respray) That would be my approach Jeremy. Regards, Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 1) build up the entire housing for the lights etc. (both ends) 2) remove the paint, prime it then paint the loco.... 3) run a small grill bit over the etched grill so that it gets a nice curve 4) paint the etched grill 5) add the clear plastic lenses 6) fit it into it's slot and doing the remaining touching up (filler, sanding, partial respray) That would be my approach Jeremy. Regards, Jerry Cheers Jerry. it's good to have lots of different ideas on fitting/painting the light etch. I'm still undecided on which way to go at the moment but I still have time to consider. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted July 25, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2013 Thanks Mike. I've just checked Bernards website and it looks like this may be discontinued. I'll PM him to see if there is a chance of getting hold of one as the kit contains the side grills and new side window frames. If you have no luck with Bernie, then try the NGS shop or BHE as they still have some TPM stocks (though I may have cleared BHE out of class 90 upgrade kits!). Even if Bernie can only send you the instructions then it is probably worth it for the roof dome IMHO! Cheers, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted July 25, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 25, 2013 Hi, I did the TPM kit a few years ago - the roof detail bits are brilliant - make sure a difference. Unfortunately, I made a bit of a rubbish job with the rest of the kit Which other bits come with the PH kit? Got 2 more 90s to do! Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 25, 2013 Author Share Posted July 25, 2013 Hi, I did the TPM kit a few years ago - the roof detail bits are brilliant - make sure a difference. Unfortunately, I made a bit of a rubbish job with the rest of the kit Which other bits come with the PH kit? Got 2 more 90s to do! Cheers Simon There are grills and pods for the roof, and the light clusters with wipac light frames. Worth getting the etch if you have 2 more to do! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Good evening, Tonight I have been working again on the 90 and a small amount of progress has been made on various stages of the upgrade. First off, the light cluster fitting has been trimmed down and all three parts have now been glued together and put to one side to dry. The next stage will be to do a dummy fit to check it still fits nice and snug and then I'll be fitting the wipac light frames to it and bulking out the middle section with a piece of plasticard in order to give the nose grill something to strengthen it. It doesn't look much so far but I'm confident the end result will look reasonably good. While this is drying I decided to make a start on the roof grills. I could have just glued the new etches directly to the existing mould but I decided to open up the moulded grill using a drill bit initially then finishing off the opening using the knife and my trusty needle file. Then the etched grill was offered into place to see how it will look and It really makes quite a difference so I'll be moving onto the second roof grill a bit later. In this photo, you can see the comparison between the refitted grill and the original moulding. It's definitely worth adding the new etch. Lastly, a new hole just a couple of millimeters forwards from the original pantograph hole was drilled in order to accept the replacement Dapol pantograph. Again this has been offered loosely into position to see how it looks. Although I feel the panto arm is a little long, it still looks a whole lot better than the original. That's all for now. I plan to get a little more done tonight and then continue on Sunday so hope to update a little more then. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 I've just tried the light insert into the loco body and fits really nice and snug. Again it's not glued in yet as I just wanted to check that it fits. (ignore the plasticard pretruding below the cab, this will be trimmed before the final fit). I have discovered that I'll need to add some extra plastic strip into the insert as if I don't, the wipac light clusters will sit too far back. Just need to make an identical one now for the other cab end!! Here are a couple of photos with the wipac light cluster "dropped in" for effect before I add the extra plastic in. Apologies for the poor quality photos but I hope it gives a bit of an idea of how things are coming along. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 It looks lovely Jeremy. It's amazing how just some small little etch can transform the entire face of the loco. Only thing left is the buffer beam/valance and the glazing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 It looks lovely Jeremy. It's amazing how just some small little etch can transform the entire face of the loco. Only thing left is the buffer beam/valance and the glazing. Thanks mate! It has already made a difference and there is still plenty of work to do. I intend to cut away the valance from the bogie and mount it directly onto the body and add full buffer beam detailing. I may even do it at both ends and then have a fixed buck eye style coupling at one end only and run it as a fixed rake. That way the valance and bogie will be detached at both ends of the loco and give a better side on appearance. There will also be some detailing bits added to the under frame too which should enhance the model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Multiple identity account 2 Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 Here is something I drew to help you with the glazing Jeremy. It will be a simple yet effective way. I feel the glazing is important because the windows take up quite a bit of space on the front of the loco so it does have its effect on the appearance. * same technique can be used for the windows on the side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 27, 2013 Author Share Posted July 27, 2013 Here is something I drew to help you with the glazing Jeremy. It will be a simple yet effective way. I feel the glazing is important because the windows take up quite a bit of space on the front of the loco so it does have its effect on the appearance. * same technique can be used for the windows on the side.Untitled.png Looks good and thanks for the advice. I'm still unsure whether to replace the glazing at the front. The side glazing just needs the frames carefully painting on so could look quite effective and I could take out the door glazing and replace with some Klear to get that flush glazing look. Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
valeofyork Posted July 27, 2013 Share Posted July 27, 2013 If anyone wants to have a go at this without risking breaking the bodyshell of their 90, a certain well-known retailer in the South Yorkshire area had a number of seemingly unused Farish class 90 bodyshells (Intercity and RES liveries from memory) in a clearance box in the second-hand department. I bought one for about a tenner as I recall. Don't know whether they still have any, but if you're after one it might be worth asking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornish trains jez Posted July 28, 2013 Author Share Posted July 28, 2013 Good evening! A couple of hours spent on the 90 this evening and some good progress has been made. First off, I have finished off the roof grills. The second moulded grill was opened up and filed nice and square. Next the roof grills were carefully pushed into position, then a small piece of bluetac to hold them in place while I glued the underside with super glue using a cocktail stick to dab a small amount on. Holes drilled out and filed square. Grills attached Next, some more work on the insert has taken place. An extra layer of 0.5mm plasticard was added to raise the depth of it. I think an extra piece will be necessary so that the light clusters sit at the right depth behind the light etch. Also made tonight was the centre support for the nose grill to be attached to. This was made using two pieces of 0.75mm plasticard glued together. The plasticard insert Insert and nose grill support offered into position to check fitting. Finally,, I started work on the first bogie by, firstly, removing the plastic bogie frame and then unclipping the valance and buffer beam. Then I cut off the coupling unit and filed smooth. The valance and buffer beam will be attached directly to the body in due course. Also, I have now sourced the transfers for the Greater Anglia branded 90. I hope to make some more progress over the next couple of evenings and finish the light cluster. More updates to follow! Best regards, Jeremy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
arran Posted July 28, 2013 Share Posted July 28, 2013 HI All One of the best improvements is to permanently fix on the front buffer beam and valance. Regards Arran Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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