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Farish Class 90 upgrade with PH designs detail parts


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Superb stuff, really looking forward to seeing this done!

 

I picked up a couple of those pantographs when I was in the model shop the other day, think they're really good. The lower you sit it the better it looks I find. It's when you extend it further it looks a bit odd.

 

Where did you get the transfers from out of interest?

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Superb stuff, really looking forward to seeing this done!

 

I picked up a couple of those pantographs when I was in the model shop the other day, think they're really good. The lower you sit it the better it looks I find. It's when you extend it further it looks a bit odd.

 

Where did you get the transfers from out of interest?

 

Hi mate!

 

The transfers will be from John at Precision transfers and decals and I'm looking forward to receiving these. I agree with you about the pantograph, it does look better when it sits lower, but that arm still looks slightly too long compared to the side on photos of the prototype that I have compared it to.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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HI All

 

Not the best pic but it shows the improvement doing the front end can bring.

 

Regards Arran

 

Nice model Arran! The valance definitely looks better when it is attached directly to the body. The layout looks familiar, is it Law Junction? Have the handrails been replaced with wire ones?

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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Nice model Arran! The valance definitely looks better when it is attached directly to the body. The layout looks familiar, is it Law Junction? Have the handrails been replaced with wire ones?

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

HI Jeremy

 

The handrails are wire and the layout is Law Junction, and that reminds me to service the class 90 allocation as of all the locos I have they need TLC between outings.

 

Regards Arran

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Good evening,

 

A milestone has been achieved this evening. The wipac light clusters have been superglued to some very small pieces of 0.25mm plasticard and then the plasticard was shaped around them using my trusty filing tool.

 

The light insert has now been fixed in place and the nose grill piece also glued onto this once it was dry. This nose grill piece will give the strength to the etch once it is glued in place.

The light clusters have in turn been fixed in and are now drying. Tomorrow I will drill out the light sockets ready for the LED's to go in for the directional lighting and then prime and paint them black as per the prototype.

 

Below are some photos showing the light cluster unit in place and then with the etch offered into place. You will notice that the etch is falling off on one side but I have just popped it into position to give an idea of how it will look. Once it is fixed permanently in place, it will sit straight and there will be a very small amount of filling and smoothing to finish the front end.

 

The photos show up a multitude of sins but at normal viewing angles and once it is finished, the little errors and "not quite so straight" bits of plasticard shouldn't show........he says! :no:

It's all a learning curve before I move on to the number 2 cab end!

 

View without the etched frame in place.

 

post-10222-0-93241700-1375133238_thumb.jpg

 

And with the etched frame offered on for effect.

 

post-10222-0-47096100-1375133322_thumb.jpg

 

post-10222-0-62659100-1375133366_thumb.jpg

 

I feel that there is already a noticeable difference and the 90 is really starting to look good now.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

 

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Jeremy

 

That's looking great the apperiance will change again once you have re fitted the valance.

 

Nice

 

Pete

 

Hi Pete,

 

Many thanks for your comments. It's a super etch and as you say, it really changes the appearance, I'll post some pictures in a bit as I couldn't resist making a start on the valance.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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Very tasty indeed!

 

Wonder why Farish didn't tool bogie footsteps? They don't seem to feature on any models?

 

Like the way you've tackled the wipacs

 

Ian

 

Cheers Ian! It is a shame that the footsteps have not been moulded. I may try and reproduce some using micro strip but they may look a tad over sized, however if it lifts the appearance I may just go with it.

The wipacs were tricky but they seem to have turned out ok.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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Okay, so I got a little carried away with 90 tonight and as I was pleased with the results of the light clusters, I decided to start refitting the valance. Here are some progress shots showing the beginnings of the valance and buffer beam. I popped a small piece of 0.25mm plasticard on the underside to support the valance sides and to give something for the lugs on the buffer beam to stick to. All the parts are original to the loco and have just had things like the coupling removed and sanded smooth.

 

I had a small issue with the front of the bogie touching the valance. So having checked the valance side against a couple of prototype photos, I decided to trim the front of the bogie by about 1.5mm (rather than the valance as it appears to be of a correct prototypical shape) so that it just swings past the valance without catching it. It's not too noticeable.

 

Next job will be to build up the middle of the valance (where the coupling used to be) using plasticard and smoothing in some filler to finish.

 

post-10222-0-27430500-1375139290_thumb.jpg\

 

post-10222-0-08635700-1375139312_thumb.jpg

 

post-10222-0-37514500-1375139335_thumb.jpg

 

Better leave it there for tonight, work in the morning!

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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The model when first introduced by Farish originally had the bogies closer together (at the correct centres). When the Cl.87 was introduced they inexplicably started to assemble them differently which pushed the bogies out slightly, causing the end of the bogie to interfere with the back of the bufferbeam on my kit, which it hadn't done originally, so I noted this in my Cl.87 instructions (the kit having been designed for the Cl.90 chassis because Farish was obviously going to do the 100 strong Cl.86 with loads of livery possibilities rather than the more limited colours on the 35 Cl.87s*).

Anyway, in original form the bogies were diven by a spring/worm arrangement so it was easy enough to reverse the two bogie pivots* by loosen the chassis and turning them round (I think this moves the bogies in about 3/4mm each end) and letting the bogie ride down the spring/worm. Unfortunately the newer Chinese built chassis have drive shafts so it's no longer easy to correct the error.

 

* not counting 87 101 which is different on the roof and underframe

 

**The bogie pivots have a small round recess in their top surace - these are probably offset towards the middle of the chassis whereas to get the correct centres, they should be offset towards the outer ends.

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Good morning all,

 

I made a small amount of progress last night. The front valance was worked on and two short pieces of 1mm sq microstrip were glued to the inside of the valance to provide supports for the small piece of plasticard to be glued to the front to fill the gap between the two sides where the coupling was. Tonight I will get the filler out and work it over the plasticard and smooth over the gap and then around the buffer beam.

I also carefully drilled out the light sockets in readiness for the LED's to be fitted.

The moulding lines on the buffers and buffer beam were also carefully filed smooth.

 

post-10222-0-92275000-1375260160_thumb.jpg

 

post-10222-0-02087400-1375260258_thumb.jpg

 

Next up, I started a little more work on the roof and fitted the next part of the etch to the corners of the roof. (If anyone can shed any light on what these are called and what they do I would be very grateful!) Two were fitted last night and I am slowly working my way towards the number 2 end cab.

Using the round metal handle of my craft knife, these parts were rolled to shape to match the cab roof line before carefully being fixed on. They were really tricky to fix into place and get them flush with both the top of the body and the cab roof but are worth the effort once fixed to the model.

 

post-10222-0-19142200-1375260804_thumb.jpg

 

post-10222-0-13854700-1375260834_thumb.jpg

 

post-10222-0-49270800-1375261513_thumb.jpg

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

 

 

 

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Good morning all,

 

I made a small amount of progress last night. The front valance was worked on and two short pieces of 1mm sq microstrip were glued to the inside of the valance to provide supports for the small piece of plasticard to be glued to the front to fill the gap between the two sides where the coupling was. Tonight I will get the filler out and work it over the plasticard and smooth over the gap and then around the buffer beam.

I also carefully drilled out the light sockets in readiness for the LED's to be fitted.

The moulding lines on the buffers and buffer beam were also carefully filed smooth.

 

attachicon.gif003.JPG

 

attachicon.gif004.JPG

 

Next up, I started a little more work on the roof and fitted the next part of the etch to the corners of the roof. (If anyone can shed any light on what these are called and what they do I would be very grateful!) Two were fitted last night and I am slowly working my way towards the number 2 end cab.

Using the round metal handle of my craft knife, these parts were rolled to shape to match the cab roof line before carefully being fixed on. They were really tricky to fix into place and get them flush with both the top of the body and the cab roof but are worth the effort once fixed to the model.

 

attachicon.gif001.JPG

 

attachicon.gif002.JPG

 

attachicon.gif007.JPG

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

If you do find any little gaps between the plastic and metal on those corner portions just use a litlle filler.

 

ALL IN ALL IT LOOKS AMAZING

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Hi all,

 

 

As posted earlier, here is a picture of the Greater Anglia transfers. They look superb and have been put together for me by John at Precision Labels.

 

post-10222-0-25836400-1375308818_thumb.jpg

 

I also made a start on the under frame detailing. My aim is to replicate the pipes as in this photo http://www.flickr.com/photos/1971martin/6977382167/sizes/l/in/faves-76701905@N08/ using 0.25mm handrail.

It is extremely fiddly to bend and the jig supplied to me by N-Brass has been really handy in producing the first pipe. Once bent to shape, a small hole was drilled using a fine drill bit in a hand drill and then the pipe offered in to check fitting before dabbing with a small amount of super glue to secure it in place.

Anyway, first one done, 4 more to go!!

 

Close up of under frame before detailing.

 

post-10222-0-33291700-1375309030_thumb.jpg

 

First pipe in place. What does everyone think, is it worth me continuing and doing the others or is it not that noticeable that I could leave the rest?

 

post-10222-0-25081500-1375309107_thumb.jpg

 

Lastly, I had a further thought earlier today, and I may be taking this a little too extreme now. But I am tempted to build a basic cab interior as there is space between the motor and the body at each end to do this. Plus I could fit a driver for effect. As visibility through the cab windows is not great, if I painted the interior a very light grey, it may show through and attract the eye to look further. Any thoughts...?

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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Hi Jeremy,

 

The curvy bits were a retrofit, to act as a wind deflector to aid drag and that.

 

I have thought about how I am going to fit them on my 4mm one and feel some fillets of plastic strip will give a slightly bigger surface to allow a neater more efficient joint, thats the plan anyways.

 

Ian

 

Good morning

 

Next up, I started a little more work on the roof and fitted the next part of the etch to the corners of the roof. (If anyone can shed any light on what these are called and what they do I would be very grateful!) Two were fitted last night and I am slowly working my way towards the number 2 end cab.

Using the round metal handle of my craft knife, these parts were rolled to shape to match the cab roof line before carefully being fixed on. They were really tricky to fix into place and get them flush with both the top of the body and the cab roof but are worth the effort once fixed to the model.

 

attachicon.gif001.JPG

 

attachicon.gif002.JPG

 

attachicon.gif007.JPG

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

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