BG John Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Those Susmotors look similar to these http://www.diesel-trains.co.uk/Lima_replacement_motor_kits.html Which I will be using to remotor some Lima diesels I did a remotor of a Lima class 08 and it works well on a 3.7V battery drawing about 110mA while pulling about 12 wagons Notice the diesel trains ones have a pre glued mounting plate I'll be using 4 x AAA batteries in my conversion, so it seems that will be more than enough. As long as I can squeeze them in. It will be tight fit to get them in the length available under the floor between the bogies on my GWR Railcar, but I think it can be done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 (edited) With the CD motors I just put a plastic plate across the Lima motor mounting screws with a hole to take the dimple on the back of the motor to hold the motor in place. Some of them have packing where the old magnet went but most have not as they seem to stay in place without. I use scalextric pinions on the motor shaft and some have been running for 10 years or so. Edited July 22, 2017 by DavidCBroad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 I put a Susumotor in a Lima King back at Easter. I just superglued it into place on the basis that it's likely to last longer than I do. If it ever gives problems my experience of superglue suggests that I should be able to break it free with a little judicious force. Rather than trial and error the location as suggested in the instructions I turned up a brass bush to adapt the Lima outer bearing to the Susu shaft. At least one online article suggested brass tube from the K&S rack at the model shop. I haven't run the beastie on the track yet but a thumb on a driving wheel dyno test indicates plenty of grunt. Certainly enough that haulage is likely to be limited by adhesion rather than motor power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Haulage won't be a problem for my railcar, even with most of the weight removed to fit the batteries. As long as it can move itself I'll be happy! It looks as though there are some alternatives to the instructions, so I'll investigate when I start on it. I was a bit concerned with gluing it in place with no way to adjust the meshing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Haulage won't be a problem for my railcar, even with most of the weight removed to fit the batteries. As long as it can move itself I'll be happy! It looks as though there are some alternatives to the instructions, so I'll investigate when I start on it. I was a bit concerned with gluing it in place with no way to adjust the meshing. I use Scalextric pinions from the common can motor 70s- 2000s cars Using the standard size I have never had to adjust the mesh. Just make sure it is central ish in the Lima motor housing. If I do have issues I will source larger or smaller Scalextric pinions which are available on line. If the gears do not mesh with the motor centralised it makes the motor mounting much more difficult, and I do treat motors and gears as consumables to be quickly and easily replaced though I have not worn anything except Lima idler gears out yet. There are 2/3 AA batteries ( same dia as AA but 66% the length) available in NiMh 4 of ehich which may well fit in a railcar between the bogies. if 4 X AAA wont. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 This is my only Lima model, so I won't need any more (I hope!). I doubt if it will be run enough to wear anything out. AA batteries are too big to fit in the vertical space available, but it's useful to know about the ⅔ size. I think I'll try two AAAs to start with. It won't be running very far in each operating session, so battery life isn't a big issue. If the motor will run fast enough on 3.3v, I can step the voltage up to that to power everything, rather than possibly have a range of voltages. I'll get on with building it as soon as I can, and test it before finally installing the batteries and electronics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Have you thought of using phone or camera/camcorder batteries as they are more compact, but obviously require a proper charger rigging up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 I use Scalextric pinions from the common can motor 70s- 2000s cars Using the standard size I have never had to adjust the mesh. Just make sure it is central ish in the Lima motor housing. If I do have issues I will source larger or smaller Scalextric pinions which are available on line. .... How many teeth does the Scalextric pinion have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted July 27, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2017 I have to say I'm impressed so far. I discovered the idea of using a CD motor, and from there the Susumotors, on Tuesday, and a Susumotor arrived from Finland today. That's faster than a lot of stuff arrives from within the UK! Anyway, it looks as though my Lima GWR Railcar will now be my first attempt at radio control. The instructions suggest using a "quick super-glue", or "Loctite-type quick glue", but I wondered what other people have found works best. Gluing the motor in place seems a bit drastic to someone who's used to making things removable! I fixed my new motor into a Lima western bogie using superglue and had to remove and re-fix it a few times as I adjusted things, but it wasn't a problem. I think I just levered it out with a screwdriver, breaking the superglue bond, cleaned it up a bit and then re-fixed it. I also gave my Lima gears a good clean-up using fine sandpaper and a dip in an Ultrasound bath before reinstalling. The result is pretty close to silent running and the performance of the new motor is great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Looks like I might have had a suspect susmotor (sic) then. The performance of the one I fitted (from Finnish Supplier via eBay), was absolutely pants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted July 27, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2017 Looks like I might have had a suspect susmotor (sic) then. The performance of the one I fitted (from Finnish Supplier via eBay), was absolutely pants. I got mine from the Finnish guy. I ordered two but I've only tested one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thaddeus Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 How many teeth does the Scalextric pinion have? I have some original brass gears which are 8 tooth, I think they came in a 9 tooth flavour aswell Bought some of these recently, they have moulded on guide ring which you have to cut off but at 99p for 30 is a bargain http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/V12003-30Pcs-0-5-Modulus-8-Teeth-Plastic-Gear-Cog-for-2mm-Toy-Car-Motor-Shaft/282336554755 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Have you thought of using phone or camera/camcorder batteries as they are more compact, but obviously require a proper charger rigging up. I'm trying to do this a step at a time. First get the electronics and radio control working, but using a simple battery setup. Then on the next loco, that I plan to be a Mainline 56xx, I'll try a Lipo battery and onboard charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 I have remotored a Lima class 26 with a diesel-trains remotoring kit. The motor looks the same as the Susmotor one to my eyes. The good news is if you use one of these motors you should expect much improved low speed performance and impressive endurance. I used a 4 x AAA NiMh battery pack with 700mAh Energiser batteries and the loco pulling 6 Hornby RR MK1 coaches as at least scale 50mph. After 5 sessions each of an hour duration the loco was still going strong with spare battery capacity. I then stopped the test because I found one of the batteries was 500mAh - Oops!, and did not want any over discharge problems. I calculate that I should get over 6 hours of use using my 'normal' 850mAh Duracells. The motor is drawing less than 150mA and never even felt warm so is not working hard. Impressive!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 I'm trying to do this a step at a time. First get the electronics and radio control working, but using a simple battery setup. Then on the next loco, that I plan to be a Mainline 56xx, I'll try a Lipo battery and onboard charging. If you are doing a number of conversions consider using a test vehicle or vehicles. I use a Dapol coach but you could use 2 open wagons, oen for the receiver and one for the battery. You can then test if everything works before the final modifications to the loco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 Thanks Dave. I think that reinforces my idea of using 2 x AAA for my railcar. It won't be pulling anything, and will just shuttle back and forth occasionally on a 6ft long layout, to interrupt shunting movements. I doubt if the real thing could have got up to anywhere near 50mph in the distance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 If the nominal 2.4V from two AAA batteries is insufficient Pololu do two voltage regulators that give 3.3V and 5.5V output from inputs as low as 0.5V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 If you are doing a number of conversions consider using a test vehicle or vehicles. I use a Dapol coach but you could use 2 open wagons, oen for the receiver and one for the battery. You can then test if everything works before the final modifications to the loco. I've got the basic system set up on a breadboard at the moment. Once the new motor is installed, I'll put the the railcar on my rolling road, and connect it. With long wires I could run it on my 3ft test track too. Once I'm happy with that, I can add and test any other bits, then start to assemble and install parts as they're ready. If the nominal 2.4V from two AAA batteries is insufficient Pololu do two voltage regulators that give 3.3V and 5.5V output from inputs as low as 0.5V All the electronics is 3.3v, so I'll have to step it up. I'm buying cheap Chinese stuff, as Pololu is expensive. I've just bought a couple of Pololu motor driver boards, having donated an arm and leg to Hobbytronics, as I couldn't get the cheap Chinese ones to work, but I hope that's an exception, or I won't have any limbs left . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 How many teeth does the Scalextric pinion have? 9 seems to be the standard "In line" pinion which I use taken from dead scalextric can motors in my scalextric parts box. 8 to 12 teeth pinions are available and you can buy packs one of each 8/9/10/11/12 teeth pinion on Ebay or from model shops. The "Sidewinder" motor pinions which are spur gear pairs rather than crown wheel and pinion do not mesh with Lima. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium SHerr Posted March 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 11, 2018 Those Susmotors look similar to these http://www.diesel-trains.co.uk/Lima_replacement_motor_kits.html Which I will be using to remotor some Lima diesels I did a remotor of a Lima class 08 and it works well on a 3.7V battery drawing about 110mA while pulling about 12 wagons Notice the diesel trains ones have a pre glued mounting plate Has anyone experienced using these replacements from Diesel-Trains? They look straightforward and I’m tempted to have a try. It would be to fit a Lima 31 on a decent sized layout so would need to haul 5/6 Bachmann mk1’s. Also it’s a DCC layout so I presume I would need to hardwired the decoder - again anyone used them on DCC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Has anyone experienced using these replacements from Diesel-Trains? They look straightforward and I’m tempted to have a try. It would be to fit a Lima 31 on a decent sized layout so would need to haul 5/6 Bachmann mk1’s. Also it’s a DCC layout so I presume I would need to hardwired the decoder - again anyone used them on DCC? Used a few, mainly on 09 shunters to get decent slow speed running. Easy to fit and supplied with the correct pinion gear. Don't do DCC but run realy well on analogue feedback or non feedback controllers. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 Used a few, mainly on 09 shunters to get decent slow speed running. Easy to fit and supplied with the correct pinion gear. Don't do DCC but run realy well on analogue feedback or non feedback controllers. As you've been playing with Lima 09s, I don't suppose you'd know the size of the crank retaining nuts? I bought a cheap one a while ago, and one of the non-Lima faults with it is that it's missing a couple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigherb Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 As you've been playing with Lima 09s, I don't suppose you'd know the size of the crank retaining nuts? I bought a cheap one a while ago, and one of the non-Lima faults with it is that it's missing a couple. M1.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Has anyone experienced using these replacements from Diesel-Trains? They look straightforward and I’m tempted to have a try. It would be to fit a Lima 31 on a decent sized layout so would need to haul 5/6 Bachmann mk1’s. Also it’s a DCC layout so I presume I would need to hardwired the decoder - again anyone used them on DCC? My converted Lima Class 47 hauls 12 Hornby Railroad Mk 1's with ease at over scale 60mph on 9v PWM DC, smooth as well. DCC should work as the motors are brushed but will need hard wiring. Don't forget to fettle the gears https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&qpvt=servicing+a+lima+diesel+loco&view=detail&mid=4D20ACD6E32F295868464D20ACD6E32F29586846&FORM=VRDGAR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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