A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[JCL]

Hi Steve - well that just looks brilliant. It's great that you've been able to get through the problems - well worth the effort.

 

And cheers Al, I'll be interested to see what you use it for on Grindleford.

 

And finally, go for the Portrait if possible. It may be a one off, but my Cameo doesn't have the downward force the Portrait owners have.

[sleeper]

I seem to remember way back in this thread someone mentioned printing an image on to card and then using the silhouette software to cut round the image. As this thread now has 56 pages it will be hard to find that post.

I want to print some logos on decal paper and cut them out. In short is this possible using the silhouette software?

 

regards Roly

[JCL]

Certainly is, MikeOxon is your man. Also, have a look at this to see if it helps

 

Edited July 26, 2016 by JCL

[Siberian Snooper]

Certainly is, MikeOxon is your man. Also, have a look at this to see if it helps

 

 

 

Looks like bins for dame Edna and the Two Ronnies

 

[MikeOxon]

Certainly is, MikeOxon is your man. ..........

Thanks for the mention, Jason.  I've built several coaches in this way.  See, for example http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1405/entry-16135-early-gwr-coaches-printing-sides/

 

There are several other entries in my blog about using the Silhouette cutter to make coach sides.

Edited July 26, 2016 by MikeOxon

[Rob Pulham]

As with the Kirk parcels van the ex NBR CCT has made a bit of progress in the paintshop. Again still some way to go both with the painting and detailing but like BR it's getting there.

 

 

 

[sleeper]

Thanks Jason and Mike for the info, the video explained it wery well I thought

[Rob Pulham]

Not quite Cameo cutter anymore but hopefully still of interest to this topic, further progress on the detailing of the NBR CCT ensued this weekend.

 

Not the best couple of photo's in the world but they show what's been done. 

 

Steps fitted

Brake handwheels and mounting blocks

Brake cylinder crank

Vacuum/steam heat pipe (I am not 100% sure which it is) and yes it is so wavy in the photo that I used in Historic Carriage Drawings Vol3 NPCS.

 

 

 

Lastly one of the steps before fitting.

 

 

Next up is a rummage in my spares box to see what I have in the way of grab and Tee handles.

[Rob Pulham]

In between detailing the NBR CCT I was also detailing the NER CCT and the NER G2 (I do hope that you are keeping up....)

 

 

This is the first use of my silhouette cut clasp brakes. I plan to use Parkside brake yokes etc. but I may look at cutting my own at some point.

[Herb Kephart]

I am new to all this, having just bought a Curio, and can't make any sense out of the so called ''instructions'',so I'm blindly fumbling

I think that if I could access the information in post #2 of this topic, it might help---but I can't find any way to read any of the topics mentioned in that list.

 

I have been modeling since 1953, but don't understand (a gross understatement I am dumb as a tree stump when it comes to) all this hi-tech stuff. What would be an immense help would be some kind a check list that I could print out ---and then perhaps I could follow it to get drawn designs (already have of of a window that I have scanned into my library), cut. This is all that I bought the machine for--to cut pieces that I have drawn on paper, cut in thin card.

 

Does this exist, perhaps in post #2?

 

Herb

[etendam]

What is currently the best choice the Cameo or Curio? (regardless the price difference)

I own a Craft Robo now but it is limited in capabilities.

 

Pro - Cons

 

Ed

Edited August 7, 2016 by etendam

[MikeOxon]

......................

I think that if I could access the information in post #2 of this topic, it might help---but I can't find any way to read any of the topics mentioned in that list.

 

The list in post#2 is not hyper-linked but it does help to find useful posts in this long thread.  You can jump to the listed pages by clicking where is says "Page ## of ##" at the top of each web page.  A box should then open : "Jump to page".  Enter the number of the page you want to view and press "GO"

 

We might be able to help further, if you could describe specific problems.  I assume you have managed to open the software and communicate with your cutter. If you have a pen-holder, you could practise with just drawing a few shapes, before actually starting to cut things.

 

Good luck!

[davefromacrossthepond]

After reading many of the posts on this thread, I've decided that the Silhouette Cameo was something that I wanted to explore.  After shopping around, I ordered one and it arrived yesterday.  I've installed the software on my laptop. For my first project I just cut my name out using an Old English font.  OK, I'm sold.  I can't even imagine how long it would have taken to cut this out by hand.  I figure I will spend the next few weeks "playing around" to learn more and more of how to best cut things out.  I have a pixscan mat coming so that I can then practice cutting around already printed objects.  Hopefully down the road I can actually use this way cool machine to cut out some Scalescene structures.  Bottom line, this machine is a fantastic piece of technology and hopefully I can learn to harness it to do some fun modeling for my layout.  As I move forward I do want to thank everyone on this thread for their posts, experiences and opinions.  I don't think I would have made this step without it.  You guys rock!

Dave

Edited August 8, 2016 by davefromacrossthepond

[JCL]

Hi Ed - Between the Cameo and Portrait I'd get the Portrait as my Cameo has a problem with regards to cutting pressure in the middle. With regards to the Portrait vs Curio, I'm afraid I wouldn't know.

 

Hi Herb, hopefully you'll be able to follow Mike's instructions. After Ron's cutting posts I didn't think it was worth continuing the index as it became a general conversation (and I don't always follow the thread now as there are people who are much more qualified than me who keep tabs on it). As Mike said, is there anything specific that we can help with?

 

Hi Dave, Congratulations! The best thing you can do is experiment and play around. It'll allow you to get used to the software, and get used to the cutter's requirements (quirks). My first cut was just a square, triangle and circle, and it didn't take too long to progress from there. Unless they provide a cutting file, you might have a problem cutting the Scalescene kits as the pdfs are password protected for editing. It is a great machine though!

 

cheers

 

Jason

[Kiwi]

Hi Ed - Between the Cameo and Portrait I'd get the Portrait as my Cameo has a problem with regards to cutting pressure in the middle. With regards to the Portrait vs Curio, I'm afraid I wouldn't know

Has anyone tried the recently released Cameo 3? It has movable pressure rollers, so I wonder if that will reduce the problem of pressure in the middle. It also appears to do more of the things Curio does, and has two cutting heads, so perhaps it will be the best of the three now? On the other hand, I haven't seen a price quoted for it yet .....

[siltec]

Hi

 

Never had any problems with my Cameo Silohuette.

 

Now a question. Has anyone used an A3 printer with a Silohuette?

 

My existing printer is getting a bit long in the tooth and the latest Micro Mart has a review of some A3 printers. There is a basic HP which will take up to 250g card so OK for printed models. I have found a few of my models have needed modifying to fit within the A4 parameters so am thinking an A3 machine would certainly cope.

 

I suspect I will need a new longer cutting mat, software obviously copes OK so just wondering if anyone has gone down this road.

 

Printer is HP7110 about £130. (I always value printers relative to the first one I ever bought. An Epson FX-80 with a BBC computer in the 1980s. A 9 pin dot matix that cost, then, £399!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

 

David

[Rob Pulham]

Just to finish this build off,

 

The only thing that's left (unless I discover something else) is to glue to roof on.

 

 

 

And finally a close up of the transfers that I had commissioned from Precision Labels (I took the opportunity to get a second set LNER set at the same time for the one that I plan to build for me, although I won't be chronicling it here unless there is something very different to share..

 

 

 

[barney121e]

Hi

 

Had a search through the topic but cant find an answer for my question. Is the silhouette able to cut small sizes for N gauge items like windows/doors, or is it more suited to OO. And what model is the one to go for, as seeing a few banded around.

 

Cheers

 

Dave

[etendam]

Dave,

 

it is also suitable for N gauge. See the post in this forum:

 

http://forum.modelspoormagazine.be/index.php/topic,19328.945.html

 

He also made a comparison between Synaps and Styrene for smaller scales:

http://forum.modelspoormagazine.be/index.php/topic,19328.1020.html

 

in the 3th post above is Synaps and below is 0,2 mm styrene both cut from the same file!

For smaller details Synaps is much better.

 

Ed

[Kiwi]

.... in the 3th post above is Synaps and below is 0,2 mm styrene both cut from the same file!

For smaller details Synaps is much better.

 

Excuse my ignorance but what is "synaps" and where can it be purchased?

[etendam]

Just google for Agfa's SYNAPS XM synthetic paper (also sold via Nekoosa in the US) is coated paper and very suitable for making windows, doors etc.

It is worldwide available in packs of 50 / 150 or by the sheet via Saroulmapoul.be.

 

Ed

[alant]

I guess the answer may be somewhere on here, but with 56 pages to read through I have not found it so far!

 

Can someone advise on the max thickness of card the Portrait will cut through, I can see plenty of information regarding plasticard but not normal card.

 

Thanks,

 

Alan.

 

Edit - I have just found reference to cutting card up to about "cornflake packet" thickness so probably answers my question.

Edited August 24, 2016 by alant

[JCL]

Hi there, yes, but note that, at least in N. America there are two types of cornflake packet card, and I've found that the jumbo cornflake boxes are slightly more difficult to cut through. I've not checked the thickness, so I'm not sure if it's that or the amount or type of glue in there.

 

On a separate note, all of the drawing I've done for the Silhouette except in the very early days, has been in Inkscape^*. Some time ago now, mentioned in this thread that Inkscape is much more flexible than Silhouette Studio because Studio files can only be used with the cutter, whereas Inkscape files can be used for other purposes and can be imported into other software.

 

A few months ago I took delivery of an Emblaser laser cutter and found that the svg files I've been creating in Inkscape can also be imported into the software that runs the laser cutter and can be used to create cutting files. I've also found that the svg format can be imported into Blender, and so, in certain circumstances can be used as the starting point for a model. Indeed, there are a lot of videos on the internet about drawing floor plans in Inskscape and importing them into Sketchup to create a 3D model of a house.

 

With this in mind I've started a new thread in the 3D forum area about using a single file to drive different technologies, specifically Silhouette cutting, laser cutting and 3D printing. Hopefully it'll be of interest to some people.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/114254-using-a-single-drawing-for-many-processes/

 

Silhouette Studio is great for learning about the cutter, and about drawing on a computer. Once you are happy with it, then I would certainly recommend looking at other software such as that from Serif, Inkscape, Corel or the like that could save files in a more future proof format.

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

^* For Inkscape read any software that can create files that can be imported into other software, be they svg, pdf, dxf, etc.

[Biased turkey]

First I would like to thank all the  RMWEB members who  contributed to this topic. A special thank to JCL.

. Until then I built all my N  layout buildings and structures using styrene and 3D printed parts ( doors, windows etc ... ) . First paper modeling is uncommon in north and south America. My opinion was:  styrene brick , or  stone wall is  three  dimensional, printed paper is not.

On  the other hand printed buildings can be more detailed  ( try to paint an N scale styrene brick wall brick by brick  )

After reading  a very interesting article in a french mag  dedicated to narrow gauge model railways ( Voie libre et etroite  ) I purchased the silhouette portrait 3 months ago.

First conclusion : I don't regret it.

I built a paper model  engine shed for my belgian vicinal steam tramways .

It has  3 layers: windows and doors , brick or stone wall , external features : stills etc..

Here is a picture:

Edited September 1, 2016 by Biased turkey

[siltec]

With our usual summer i have had an opportunity to play with the Cameo.

 

I have discovered some new things, well to be, about how it works.

 

I have been cutting out prints onto glossy photo paper of about 220g. For some reason no setting would get it to cut through the card. I tried everything, changed all the settings but to no avail. One problem was the that the speed never seemed to vary.

 

I normally print to the outline but tried printing to the colour fill, and had some success. I then noticed that against each colour when selecting the colour to print around, or colour line to use a material was listed. In all cases copy paper. I have always been setting the paper when setting the cutter. I realized that the paper set against the colour now has to be the same as that for the cutter, in my case card stock. Once i did this then the cutting followed the settings. Slower speeds than default. Also the cutter went through the card.

 

I am not sure if this is part of the software upgrade or whether at first it never really mattered as I was no cutting really thick card.

 

Also for the first time I have tried out the Chinese metal blade holder and blades bought on eBay. The blade holder is made from aluminium and is beautifully made. Once I worked out how the blade fits in, easy actually, it is easy to adjust and obviously works as well as the overpriced silhouette offerings.

 

I think I learned about these holders and blades from an earlier posting so thanks to whoever was responsible. i actually bought them a while back but as the Silhouette blade was still working never got around to trying it out.

 

Finally when refilling ink cartridges they definitely need to left a while, 24 hours or so to settle down. Recently refilled the black and noticed that the paperwork for that ink suggests this wait.

 

And to show my efforts - nothing fancy, this is prototyping at its most basic a short movies, made on a sunny day at the weekend. Bit of a rarity at the moment; it is raining outside.

 

 

https://youtu.be/FHuWHzxb65M

 

David

 

As someone will always ask the music is from a CD of copyright free music that I bought around 1990, pre internet days. It was then sold for adding as a sound track to videos. It came from BVG, or Burgess Video Group. BVG have not been involved with video for some time but actually still exists as quite a large company involved with logistics. Bit like Birmingham Carriage and Wagon who morphed from rolling stock manufacturing into a finance company of some sort.