chaz Posted October 20, 2018 Author Share Posted October 20, 2018 I have got a couple of water tank spouts coming. Paul Martin of EDM models got me them from Bill Banta - they come in a bag of white-metal bits that include some band tensioners - they would be tricky to make. ______________________________________________________________________ I visited the Continental O gauge show in Winchester this morning. Picked up this dinky Bachmann Mogul from the 7mmNGA stand. It runs really sweetly, slow, quiet and smooth so I will keep the non-sound chip in it for the moment. Pity I didn't notice the cobweb on the headlamp before I took the pictures. The pilot will need to be changed as it has that useless non-working coupler - what were they thinking? Fortunately I have a Bachmann replacement pilot which will be fitted very soon. There it is standing on my excellent Kitwood Hill turntable. I will need to look at the slide bars, they really shouldn't slope up like that but this is a common problem with the Bachmann Mogul. Maybe the motion bracket needs some attention. #12 reverses back past the (scratch built) water tank... ...and later is glimpsed among the trees. I may well keep the number 12, but the lettering on the tender will have to come off and be replaced by the words "Furness Valley". Chaz 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 21, 2018 Author Share Posted October 21, 2018 Mrs Theodora Westwood and her daughter Emmeline pause as the mogul heading a short freight clanks passed the depot at Stoke's Ferry. "Be careful of the smoke Emmeline, and you mustn't wave to the engineer!" "Did you hear what that man said to me Emmeline? Terrible! I suppose we must get to Dixon some other way if there are no passenger trains today." "Is this really the best hotel in the town, Mama? After that awful, dusty road I was hoping for a little comfort." Chaz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 Mrs Theodora Westwood and her daughter Emmeline pause as the mogul heading a short freight clanks passed the depot at Stoke's Ferry. "Be careful of the smoke Emmeline, and you mustn't wave to the engineer!" P1080485.jpg "Did you hear what that man said to me Emmeline? Terrible! I suppose we must get to Dixon some other way if there are no passenger trains today." P1080486.jpg "Is this really the best hotel in the town, Mama? After that awful, dusty road I was hoping for a little comfort." P1080487.jpg Chaz That's a brave man who's given sass to Theodora!!!! I wouldn't!! The Mogul is a lovely little thing!! I'm assuming that's the cleanest we'll ever see it!!! The shots in forest are perfection!!! You do very good work Sir! Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 Sometimes you have to switch your modelling focus to avoid getting very bored. So setting aside the hopper cars that I have been weathering (seven down, five to go) I had another look at the engine yard. Yesterday the two packs of water tank fittings arrived from Paul Martin of EDM (he got them for me from Bill Banta). The parts of one set are laid out in the photo above. At the top a very nice spout, then three pulleys, two of them in brackets, ten band tensioners and a bracket - whose function escapes me. Any ideas? I also received a floor for my engine house from Simon Cox of Kitwood Hill Models laser cut from 3mm MDF. Simon warned me that the Bachmann ten-wheelers are a fairly close fit through the doors so I have moved the position of the building to include nine inches of straight on the approach. This should mean that a loco will have fully straightened up and not be at an angle as it passes into the building. Simon suggested I should treat both sides of the MDF to a coat of PVA to prevent it warping when a treatment is added to the top surface. In this photo you can see I have cut the links to the waste pieces in the pit openings and gaps for the PCB ties. I positioned the floor carefully and then marked through the pit openings. I enlarged the planned cut to include the 2mm sides and ends of the pits and then cut the long sides through with a tenon saw. I made the short end cuts with a Stanley knife. Cutting plywood (especially good quality birch ply) is hard work. As the cut gets deeper the wood grips the side of the blade harder. I relieve this drag by shaving off the inner side with a chisel. The holes for both pits have been cut and just need the edges cleaning up a bit. A slight waviness doesn’t matter as these openings will disappear when the floor is in place. The last two photos are a trial fit of the two side walls of the engine house (or shed - either is OK). After all that work it has to be done! I have a feeling that it won’t be long before the track is laid from the turntable and across the floor. I just need to source some PCB from which to cut the ties. Chaz 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Chaz, Here's my assembled Banta kit. The bracket is to feed the water release rope into the top and presumably down through the tank to the valve....at least I think so.... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Chaz, Here's my assembled Banta kit. The bracket is to feed the water release rope into the top and presumably down through the tank to the valve....at least I think so.... WP_20141217_20_59_43_Pro.jpg Thanks for that information Jeff, useful. Some tanks had a pulley to take a cable (chain?) down to the valve so I might not need the lever. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 The engine house floor progresses... I assembled the pits which went together very nicely. As Simon Cox of Kitwood Hill Models pointed out to me I could easily have made these from scratch. However it was worth getting them laser cut to save the time required for something else - it took a while to cut the baseboard top to allow the pits to drop in. A close up of the steps down into the pit - these are at both ends of the pits. I glued the pits to the underside of the floor. I used "sticky" PVA and put lines of the glue both on the underside of the floor and the top edge of the pits. Of course you might question whether all this is worth the effort, inside a building and often invisible under parked locomotives... Chaz 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 Next step is to lay the track, once that's down I will finish the engine house. it's my intention to make the roof removable so that the interior can be detailed. So much to do.... Chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 (edited) Improving the hopper car coal loads… Bachmann’s effort at a coal load isn’t bad but can be improved. #83 has a load that has already been modified a bit... The ends have been shaped with a file to allow the load to sit a bit lower (my own feeling is that the hoppers, out of the box, do look rather over full - and I am going to add a layer to the top!). Sorry - the photo is not one of my best but I'm sure you get the idea. Here is a Bachmann original side by side with the improved version. I coat the top of the plastic with PVA and sprinkle on Woodland Scenics B93 Coal Lump. There are two glue-coated loads hidden under this generous heap of coal lumps. I will leave this overnight to allow the glue to harden. Once the loads have been dug out (!) the excess coal can be poured back into the pot for re-use. The edges and ends of the load plate can be cleaned up by working them up and down a sheet of 120 grade abrasive paper until they are smooth, with no projecting pieces of coal on the top edge. Here is #83 loaded with the more realistic coal. Compare this with the first photo in this post to decide whether you think this improvement is worth the work and then apply Rule One! Chaz Edited October 26, 2018 by chaz 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Looking great Chaz, I always add some sort realistic WS or similar in my locos. With your hoppers I would think they were filled from some sort elevated hopper so would tend to heap rather than level out. I usually use diluted PVA for heaping, like doing ballast. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 (edited) I have just spent a day and a half converting the last six turnouts on the layout, at Stoke's Ferry, to control via DPDT toggle switches. This involved fitting and wiring the switches, removing the unwanted DCC accessory decoders and re-routing the wiring. I also wired relays to switch the polarity of the crossings so this no longer relies on the internal switches in the Tortoises. The last time a friend came round for an operating session we both got fed up with the number of button pushes that were necessary to get the handset to change the route setting when switching cars. Now every turnout on the layout can be set at the flick of a toggle switch. So much more straightforward. The toggle switches are positioned, as closely as possible, in line with the tie-bar and switch stand so no labelling is required, and if the route is set wrongly then the toggle is reversed, if not then it can be left alone - again no labelling needed. We don't even need to remember the switch numbers - these become irrelevant unless a fault develops. A very tedious job after the first turnout but definitely time well spent. Chaz PS - a couple of sheets of PCB arrived today from Rapid Electronics so there is no excuse, the track can be laid across the engine house floor. Edited October 30, 2018 by chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 One of those days when you work hard but don’t seem to have much to show… I cut some ties from the PCB sheet I recently acquired, these I glued into the slots in the engine house floor. I had to put some card packing under the PCB pieces so that the top surface is flush. Code 83 rail will be soldered directly to the copper. I have also glued down some packing (cereal box card) between the turntable and the engine house ready for track to be laid. The rectangular hole is for an ash pit: the rails over this will lay along girders so that the space between them is open. I will need to sort out the details of how to make the ash pit before I can lay any track. I have also glued some card pieces down ready for the tracks that will continue beyond the shed. Chaz 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 I spent some time this morning cutting and gapping enough PCB ties to complete the hand laid track on both sides of the engine house - boring, but necessary. After lunch I made up a card and stripwood box for the ash pit. This was a simple job, assembled with PVA. As it had to be installed from underneath and gravity was not on my side I used an impact adhesive (Timebond) to fix it. The tricky bit will be getting the rails across and adequately supported - a little thought is needed. Once it's all in I am going to want to model heaps of ash - The heaps are no problem (DAS will serve) but any ideas how I can get an ash effect? Maybe burn some stuff and use the real thing? Have you successfully modelled ash? Chaz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 (edited) After all the preparatory work I finally got to lay some track up to and across the shed floor today. Hoorah! As the RH track is curved I laid one rail with the PCB ties soldered on, then glued down the balsa wood ties. Once these are down I set the alignment and spiked the rail to middle one of each of the set of three wood ties. Using a pair of track gauges to set the gauge I solder the second rail in place. The rails across the ash pit as yet are unsupported but “I” beams will be placed underneath on small abutments each side. “Building downwards” like this should result in a good flat rail top. On the left of the picture the rail for the LH track is on my jig that sets the PCB ties spacing, with five ties soldered up. 9:50pm this evening and I just had to stop. The PCB ties have been soldered to the LH rail of the second track and the balsa wood ties glued down - ready to be spiked. Chaz Edited November 1, 2018 by chaz 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 1, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 1, 2018 Coming on nicely. I too think it is better to have the point controls separate from the DCC. I did build one layout using accessory decoders and found with the Lens it could work OK on a shunting plank using a knob type controller you could have the knob and forward reverse buttons controlling the loco while the function buttons worked the turnouts. With only four numbers to work two crossovers and two single turnouts it was easy to remember which was which with consecutive numbers you could just move up or down the group. However if you had more it would become impractical. Addditionally there is no visible indication of how the turnout is set apart from the point blades. Much simpler to use switches to operate the turnout. Of course if you are modelling a modern system where the lines are controlled by a centralised panel this can be replicated by using a computer linked to the DCC system. With a diagram on the computer you can click on a turnout and the computer will send the appropriate commands. For me a row of switches acting like the levers on a signal box frame feels more appropriate for a steam age line. Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) Coming on nicely. I too think it is better to have the point controls separate from the DCC. I did build one layout using accessory decoders and found with the Lens it could work OK on a shunting plank using a knob type controller you could have the knob and forward reverse buttons controlling the loco while the function buttons worked the turnouts. With only four numbers to work two crossovers and two single turnouts it was easy to remember which was which with consecutive numbers you could just move up or down the group. However if you had more it would become impractical. Addditionally there is no visible indication of how the turnout is set apart from the point blades. Much simpler to use switches to operate the turnout. Of course if you are modelling a modern system where the lines are controlled by a centralised panel this can be replicated by using a computer linked to the DCC system. With a diagram on the computer you can click on a turnout and the computer will send the appropriate commands. For me a row of switches acting like the levers on a signal box frame feels more appropriate for a steam age line. Don Quite so Don. The only thing I would add is that signal boxes were unknown on U.S. narrow gauge lines so a centralised grouping of switches is not necessarily the best approach for a layout of this type. I decided to put the toggle switches in line with the switch tie-bars. Chaz Edited November 2, 2018 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 (edited) Quite so Don. The only thing I would add is that signal boxes were unknown on U.S. narrow gauge lines so a centralised grouping of switches is not necessarily the best approach for a layout of this type. I decided to put the toggle switches in line with the switch tie-bars. Chaz Coming on nicely. I too think it is better to have the point controls separate from the DCC. I did build one layout using accessory decoders and found with the Lens it could work OK on a shunting plank using a knob type controller you could have the knob and forward reverse buttons controlling the loco while the function buttons worked the turnouts. With only four numbers to work two crossovers and two single turnouts it was easy to remember which was which with consecutive numbers you could just move up or down the group. However if you had more it would become impractical. Addditionally there is no visible indication of how the turnout is set apart from the point blades. Much simpler to use switches to operate the turnout. Of course if you are modelling a modern system where the lines are controlled by a centralised panel this can be replicated by using a computer linked to the DCC system. With a diagram on the computer you can click on a turnout and the computer will send the appropriate commands. For me a row of switches acting like the levers on a signal box frame feels more appropriate for a steam age line. Don Manual or some form of local point control is the most appropriate for modelling "Dark Territory" such as a narrow gauge line with either Timetable & Train Order or Track Warrant Control to manage train movements. DCC in conjunction with JMRI or proprietary train control software works pretty well for modelling main line CTC (centralised traffic control) operation. I originally installed Lenz accessory decoders to operate points in the staging yard and one crossing place on a medium sized N gauge layout with old Triang controlling the points in the main yard an area where train movements would be controlled by a Tower (UK signal box) or hand signal and point lever. I originally used a throttle to control the accessory decoders, but later converted to computer control using JMRI software, certainly a lot quicker and less work than building and wiring a CTC board or a d.c. control panel Points on my garden railway are all hand operated most by working switch stands, I originally controlled the switches in the covered staging yard by DCC intending to extend it to the main line but though the better of it for a narrow gauge line. Working in large scale switching or running round a train involves a lot of walking about and nicely slows the operation down. The next stage is to implement a Train Order or Track Warrant system perhaps with 2 way radio for communication and some form of operating sequence for train movements. Edited November 2, 2018 by John M 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Manual or some form of local point control is the most appropriate for modelling "Dark Territory" such as a narrow gauge line with either Timetable & Train Order or Track Warrant Control to manage train movements. DCC in conjunction with JMRI or proprietary train control software works pretty well for modelling main line CTC (centralised traffic control) operation. I originally installed Lenz accessory decoders to operate points in the staging yard and one crossing place on a medium sized N gauge layout with old Triang controlling the points in the main yard an area where train movements would be controlled by a Tower (UK signal box) or hand signal and point lever. I originally used a throttle to control the accessory decoders, but later converted to computer control using JMRI software, certainly a lot quicker and less work than building and wiring a CTC board or a d.c. control panel Points on my garden railway are all hand operated most by working switch stands, I originally controlled the switches in the covered staging yard by DCC intending to extend it to the main line but though the better of it for a narrow gauge line. Working in large scale switching or running round a train involves a lot of walking about and nicely slows the operation down. The next stage is to implement a Train Order or Track Warrant system perhaps with 2 way radio for communication and some form of operating sequence for train movements. Interesting approaches John. I did use computer control and JMRI software on a (now dismantled) British O gauge layout. I thought use of a computer to control a narrow gauge layout would "feel wrong". Having operated the layout a couple of times with all the switches controlled by locally sited toggles this does "feel right" to me. Chaz 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Progress at lunch time today... ...both tracks laid across the floor. Later, at 4pm... ...both extensions beyond the shed soldered up and the LH one ready to spike down. Onwards! Chaz 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Progress at lunch time today... P1080548.jpg ...both tracks laid across the floor. Later, at 4pm... P1080550.jpg ...both extensions beyond the shed soldered up and the LH one ready to spike down. Onwards! Chaz Nice!!! C. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 Nice!!! C. One regret I have is that lack of space has forced me to place much of the layout parallel to the baseboard edges. The second photo on my previous post makes that very obvious. I envy some of the American layout owners with their huge basement spaces. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 The modular layouts I've seen at shows are generally parallel to the edges too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 The modular layouts I've seen at shows are generally parallel to the edges too. Probably for the same reason Jeff. It's just one of those limitations one accepts - the alternative would be no layout, or a very small one. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) This morning... ...RH track is in! I had to cut and stain another batch of balsa ties. There are a few spikes left to put in but otherwise I am finished laying track. Next task is to sort the ash pit and whilst spiking and listening to The Stones I had an idea..... Chaz Edited November 3, 2018 by chaz 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Probably for the same reason Jeff. It's just one of those limitations one accepts - the alternative would be no layout, or a very small one. Chaz The multi-owner modular concept has agreed track interfaces so they can be joined so this probably limits the track layout on each board. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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