mark axlecounter Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 And now here are a few more blak 5s as I say I like the stainer locos 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Some times less is better! All taken in the bad days of steam 1966 - 1968. Sh!t up yes, leaking steam from all of the joints no. This loco is on the scrap line at Carnforth in 67 or 68, no connecting rod, part of the coupling rods missing (it's rumoured that it ran as a 2-8-2 for a short while. I'd like to see a photo of that). OzzyO. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Hi Ozzyo I have pictures of both 44767 and 44765 i have tried to copy where the rust staining and oxide has gone. To be honest I think they might need taking off I will have to see Nice pics Ozzyo i like them when they are weathered shows they are true workhorses Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Just an update on 44767 I have toned down the weathering a bit I have as Ozzyo says less is better pics will be on here soon Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Just an update 44767 has been on test and the motion has lasted so now its time to modifiy another black 5 YES another one The loco what will be a coprotti high running no 44686 coverting Hornby black 5 into it. I will be taking pics when i start it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Just an update 44767 has been on test and the motion has lasted so now its time to modifiy another black 5 YES another one The loco what will be a coprotti high running no 44686 coverting Hornby black 5 into it. I will be taking pics when i start it Looking forward to seeing it. I thought that these two were much better looking than the earlier caprottis, though I never saw them. Actually I cannot remember seeing any of the caprottis though I can remember seeing 44767 at Edge Hill in 1967. Where will you source the valve gear? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Hi David I will be using a spair djh coprotti valve gear for the mod and scratch built other parts needed. Crownline use to do a conversion but they are hard to find now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Hi David I will be using a spair djh coprotti valve gear for the mod and scratch built other parts needed. Crownline use to do a conversion but they are hard to find now. Ah! Lucky to have the spare! I wondered if anyone produced it. I know that DJH do for the Duke and standard 5 models, but didn't think that they would supply components. I remember the Crownline conversion but was drifting away from modelling and never bought it. Pity. Impossible to have too many Black 5's on a layout! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Ah! Lucky to have the spare! I wondered if anyone produced it. I know that DJH do for the Duke and standard 5 models, but didn't think that they would supply components.... DJH generally don't provide any spares unless you can prove you have their existing kit, and the part is defective or broken. Some Caprotti castings may be available from Golden Arrow Productions (it comes out of their resin "Duke of Gloucester" kit); I bought a set from them at a show a while ago. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 I have done a bit on the caprotti black 5 I need to put it thought the paint shop but here are some pics 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 And here are some more shots of my latest mod a caprotti black 5 44686 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 Just a few more of the caprotti blak 5s 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 I too used the brassmasters kit as a basis for mine but chose in the end to use the chassis that canme with the kit. The extra length 4" equates to 1mm and I thought it not worth the extra effort. The cab, firebox & boiler on the long wheelbase versions are moved back 4" and the smokebox increased in length by 4". Also if you use the comet chassis then the Bill bedford rods will be too short (they are for the short wheelbase version) I presume that when he did the etch he assumed that most people would convert a RTR model to achieve the result. Personally I think people would be hard put to see the difference in wheelbase legth unless there are two versions side by side and then it's only 1mm the choice is yours of course and good luck whichever route you take.... I agree that it will be difficult to see the difference and it gives me a problem of what to do with the smokebox. I'll find a way! Actually will need to check other dimensions too: is the running plate 4" longer if the cab etc are moved back? Just going back to 44767 again, the GA drawings confirm that 4 inches (or 1.3mm in 4mm scale) were added to: - the chassis (between the centre driving axle position and the oval lightening hole in front of the trailing axle position) - the trailing coupling rods - the smokebox (between the chimney and join to the boiler) - the running plate I recently picked up a second Brassmasters LFB Black 5 kit for an experiment, and can see that you would need to: - saw the resin smokebox vertically behind the chimney position - add in a plastic insert to lengthen the smokebox to a scale 6'8", and rejoin - cut the footplate valencing and add in a 1.3mm insert - add corresponding inserts to the running plates - cut the chassis frames in the positions mentioned - cut and graft in 1.3mm inserts, then rejoin - lengthen the trailing coupling rods. For the last three tasks you'd definitely need some sort of jig (Chris Pendlenton-style) to hold it all in the right place whilst soldering back together again. It's quite involved. Interesting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted April 4, 2014 Author Share Posted April 4, 2014 That is where I would have to stop at I couldnt do that maybe in a few more years lol mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 Just going back to 44767 again, the GA drawings confirm that 4 inches (or 1.3mm in 4mm scale) were added to: - the chassis (between the centre driving axle position and the oval lightening hole in front of the trailing axle position) - the trailing coupling rods - the smokebox (between the chimney and join to the boiler) - the running plate I recently picked up a second Brassmasters LFB Black 5 kit for an experiment, and can see that you would need to: - saw the resin smokebox vertically behind the chimney position - add in a plastic insert to lengthen the smokebox to a scale 6'8", and rejoin - cut the footplate valencing and add in a 1.3mm insert - add corresponding inserts to the running plates - cut the chassis frames in the positions mentioned - cut and graft in 1.3mm inserts, then rejoin - lengthen the trailing coupling rods. For the last three tasks you'd definitely need some sort of jig (Chris Pendlenton-style) to hold it all in the right place whilst soldering back together again. It's quite involved. Interesting. It's on my 'will I - won't I' list at present. I thought that the body changes to the Brassmasters kit were feasible and I was planning to use the Comet LWB chassis. Still pondering this one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 4, 2014 Share Posted April 4, 2014 It's on my 'will I - won't I' list at present. I thought that the body changes to the Brassmasters kit were feasible and I was planning to use the Comet LWB chassis. Still pondering this one. In the event that you have no need for the Brassmasters chassis, motion and associated bits, do let me know. I'd be happy to buy them from you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Mark latecomer to this post, lovely work, on all the class 5s...it's not just the modelling but putting character into them which raises the bar Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Thanks for the comments I have not done any modeling for a while been busy with other things. But I will be modeling soon so I will be putting pics on here soon. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Look forward to seeing them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Mark thank you for letting me show my effort on this thread...just noticed a potential problems and why this may not be a good idea...namely the clearance between the front and back rods on the cranks..will no doubt find out in fuel course... I have been corresponding with Mark seeking his help as I attempt the Stephenson outside motion black 5. The body is GBL...frames nickel silver home made in the temporary (I hope) absence of comet. They used the bill Bedford motion set coupling rods to determine axle centres...and so far is very free running. (famous last words) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Mark have just soldered up the assembly as shown. Placed on photo of real thing....phew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Hi Brian looking good keep them pics coming. I didn't put the link rod on due to the fact it's so small it's un noticeable lol Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Yes as I think stated thought I was being too clever...however all seems to work ok....what I'm not showing too much of at present is the fact the motor is now inserted into chassis and being test run...so far so good. If that dosnt work all the nice fiddly soldering will be in vain...had a day off today but will if I may update as I go along. I cannot overstate how seeing your photos gave me the confidence to attempt this. I think stating the obvious I do love the black 5s in all their varieties. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbax Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I used the bill Bedford coupling rods on mine in place of the brassmasters ones, for some obscure reason, I think they are not the extra 4" long between the centre and rear coupled wheels. In fact I am pretty sure otherwise they would not have been a direct replacement Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 I used the bill Bedford coupling rods on mine .....I think they are not the extra 4" long between the centre and rear coupled wheels. In fact I am pretty sure otherwise they would not have been a direct replacement You can split the layers on the trailing section, though, if you want to stretch them. Comet already produce the LWB variant frames and rods anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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