High Level Armstrong Whitworth diesel shunter

[david65061]

Dear All

 

Welcome to my new topic on the building of a High Level etched brass kit of an Armstrong Whitworth diesel shunter.

During the christmas holidays I made a visit to the Tanfield Railway in County Durham. My favorite preserved railway were you can ride in old fashioned 4 wheel coaches with wooden seats behind industrial steam engines. Unfortunately at present they can not run to the end of the line at East Tanfield and the train terminates at Causy Arch were there is no run round loop, so a delightful little diesel shunter is used as pilot to allow the train engine to run round. Well I was smitten and just had to have a model of it. Luckily High Level make a kit f it so I just had to have one.

 

Here is a picture of the loco for those who do not know what I am talking about.

 

 

Opening the box this is what I found.

 

 

A very comprehensive set of instructions explain how to build it at each stage of the construction. The kit is so well designed that I just followed the instructions. The only difficult bit was forming the bonnet to shape. This required measuring and drawing lines to mark were the bend should be. On Chris's later kits he has etched onto the brass  frame were the fold should be so no measuring is required. He even tells you were and when to add lead weights. The only fault I have found is that in the cab the instrument panel between the windows is an exact fit between them in the kit but is on the prototype it is not as big.

 

 

I compromised by  fitting it on its side which gives the prototypical space each side but means that it is too long. A minor point in an other wise fantastic kit. I'll post a series of shots which showed how I am progressing. You can see the compromise with the panel in the first picture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I can't wait until I can do some more of this kit

 

Regards

 

David

 

[Dava]

I've had the same experience at Tanfield which has so much atmosphere from its long history & restored wooden coaches. Good to see your model progressing, Jim Read did one in 7mm scale.

 

Dava

[Retro_man]

I completed my High Level AW 0-4-0 diesel last year and found it to be an absolute pleasure to build. I did the North Sunderland Railway "Lady Armstrong" version and had etched plates made by Narrow Planet.

The only difficulty was the wheels as the kit was designed for Sharman disk wheels with 2mm axles. I ended up making my own from Markits brass disk wheels by using the fly crank as a jig to drill the crank-pin holes, then soldering in 1mm countersunk screws as the crank-pins. Sounds more difficult than it really is and the end result was a smooth running loco. I also used the "Illuso-Drive" system as described in the instructions.

I wish I had your cab photo when I was detailing the cab!

 

 

 

Steve

Canada

[sej]

Hi, you've got some great photos there. It's a lovely little loco and those High Level kits are superb.

Here's an 0 gauge version of the Lady Armstrong that I scratch built; a very satisfying project.

Looking forward to seeing your work progress.

 

 

Cheers

Simon

[Gordon A]

I have built the High level kit which was a most enjoyable experience.

The kit is well designed and a pleasure to put together.

For wheels IIRC I used Gibson pug wheels which I think I purchased for 2mm axles and matching Gibson cranks???

 

Gordon

[PenrithBeacon]

Would you mind going into some detail as to how you formed the bonnet?

 

Regards

[Ruston]

An interesting prototype that I mean to have a go at building in 7mm one day. I'll watch your progress on the kit with interest.

[david65061]

Dear All

 

Simon and Steve those are two lovely models. It is always nice to see what other people have done. If anyone else has a model of one of these locos please feel free to post a picture. I am still in two minds whether to to a model of lady armstrong or the engine which is presently on the tanfield railway. I will have to decide soon though.

David I am happy to give some details of forming the bonnet. The bonnet sides and top come as one piece which requires three bends to be formed. The instructions are quite clear about how this should be done and give you pointers on what to do if it is not working out. First thing to be done is mark on the etches with a pen where the folds need to be. The first line is down the middle of the bonnet, you use the filler cap holes as a guide for this. the other two lines are 8mm away from it on each side.

The first bend to be done is down the middle of the bonnet. I clamped the bonnet in a vice between pieces of wood so the middle line is just visible above the wood packing pieces. Using a steel edge ruler laid on the exposed piece I then pushed the etch until it it a gently rounded bend was formed. This was checked against the bonnet formers (ie. the front and back of the bonnet) to get the exact bend. Next are the two bends at the shoulders. I used a 3mm drill bit to form the bends round. I clamped the drill bit vertically in the vice then placing the etch with the line centrally on the drill bit I then formed the bend using my thumbs and fingers. Only a small bit at a time and I checked often with the bonnet formers if the bend was in the right place, then continuing to increase the bend. One of my bends was slightly out so Ii was able to correct this by continuing the bend further on one rather than centrally (where the line is drawn). This is quite difficult to describe but quite easy to do in reality and is even covered in the instructions. Once the two bends had been made to match the bonnet formers they were soldered in position. I did not need to anneal the brass to form the bends finger pressure was enough. The secret is to only do a small amount of the bend at a time and keep checking to see if it is in the right place. If you did the bend in one go and got it wrong it would be quite difficult to correct. All said it was not that difficult and should not put any one off building this fantastic kit.

I have bought alan gibson pug wheels with 1/8inch axles for this kit. Chris warned me when I ordered the kit on the phone that the frames are etched for 2mm axles so will need opening out considerably but he did supply a final gear wheel to suit a 1/8 inch axle. Make sure you specify when you order.

 

regards

 

David

I

[PenrithBeacon]

David,

 

Thanks for that. I have often wondered how it was done. I've bookmarked the webpage for future reference

 

The RCTS has a recently published book on the AW diesel electrics and very good it is too.

 

Regards

[darren01]

HI

Very nice bit of work you have done so far, I built my very first kit using one of the HLM,0-4-0ST.

I must say his kits are so well designed and almost build themselves, I have the Bagley 0-6-0 to do next.

I would say to anyone who is going to build there first kit to do a HLM one, as his instructions are so well done and if you do mess up or get stuck he will take the time to help you out, top man!

For bending parts I heat them up on an old camping stove , this helps to bend the parts.

Will follow this build.

[Rumblestripe]

Fancy TWO Armstrong Whitworths threads!

 

This is may well be my favourite diesel of any type, I have photographed her several times at the Tanfield, this being a favourite shot of mine of her on shed at Marley Hill

 

[DLT]

Lovely job David,  I really like these weird rod-coupled diesels, and I've used a lot of Highlevel products myself (mostly gearboxes)

All the best,

Dave.

[david65061]

Fancy TWO Armstrong Whitworths threads!

 

This is may well be my favourite diesel of any type, I have photographed her several times at the Tanfield, this being a favourite shot of mine of her on shed at Marley Hill

 

That is a lovely atmospheric shot. I assume it was taken inside the shed at Marley Hill. Thanks for posting it.

 

David

[david65061]

Dear All

 

A little more work on the loco. 

 

The battery box has been added and filled with lead.

 

 

I have added the control desk in the cab. The levers on the side are represented with brass lace pins.

 

 

I have filled the front of the bonnet smooth so it looks solid like the prototype.

 

 

Now it is decision time. Is it to be Lady  Armstrong or not.

 

regards

 

David

[Retro_man]

 

The battery box has been added and filled with lead.

 

 

 

It is coming along very nicely!

 

I added lead in all the locations recommended in the instructions but also was able to add a decent size chunk under the cab roof.

This comes down to just above the side cut-outs and is a snug fit within the cab sides. It is just tight enough to hold the roof in place but still allows it to be easily removable for painting the cab interior.

[david65061]

Dear All

 

Well I decided to build Lady Armstrong from the North Sunderland Railway. So I attached the air tank and other stuff to the footplate.

 

 

Then I realised that Lady Armstrong has some difficult pipe runs to do. Particularly the one from the front head lamp which goes down to the buffer beam then along it to end in some type of connector. Simon's picture of his model above shows how it runs. I am not sure how the pipe from the back head lamp runs exactly. I assume it also goes down to the buffer beam and ends in a similar connector. All the pictures I can find it is obscured by the buffer beam. There are also the runs from the air hoses. If only I had chosen the tanfield loco I could have avoided all of them.

 

Buffer beams have been added.

 

,

 

It is starting to look like the prototype loco.

 

regards

 

David

 

[sej]

Hi, your build is coming along beautifully. I reckon the Lady A., is a great choice!

I enjoy putting on extra details and think they generally add to the character of a model.

Here's a shot of the pipe runs at the back, they do come from photos of the original, I'll try and find them.

There is a great little book, I think by Oakwood Press, about the North Sunderland Railway with some excellent photos of the Lady A.

 

 

Cheers

Simon

 

[Kenton]

What a lovely prototype and High Level kit too - I want to build one

[david65061]

Dear All

 

I have been really enjoying building this kit. Today I have had a successful session detailing the body. I added some of the castings. Unfortunately I managed to loose the cast horn. Luckily I had a set of class 73 horns in stock so I used one of these. It is very similar to the prototype in appearance. I have added the front pipe run from the head light ending on the buffer beam. I was convinced the back pipe run must also end on the buffer beam but could not find a good picture of it, but I did find a good side on view in the Oakwood press book on the North Sunderland Railway book. ( A fantastic book of this delightful Railway with some good pictures of Lady Armstrong). The side on view clearly shows the pipe run running along the side of the traction motor cover to the buffer beam where it must end in the same manner as the front buffer beam. This confirmed what I imagined where the pipe must run.. I have still to finish of the run along the top of the buffer beam at the back. The instructions tell you to drill out the buffer beams to accept the coupling hooks. But this would require you to drill out a section of the foot plate behind the buffer beam. As this does not seem a practicable proposition I soldered the hooks direct to the front of the buffer beam. Lady Armstrong has a plate around her coupling hook so I soldered an etched coupling hook into the plate then filled the back of smooth before soldering the backing plate with the coupling in it onto the buffer beam. 

I really need to spend some time removing excess solder from the body. It is not too bad but will improve appearances ready for painting. Not much left before I am finished the body then I am on to the chassis.

I must say this is the best kit I have ever made. I can't praise High Level enough.

 

regards

 

David

 

 

 

[Twright]

That looks excellent, well done.

[david65061]

Dear All

 

Quite a while since I could get some modelling done but I have finally done some more. After spending the evening last time soldering on the electrical pipe on the back of the cab then writing up the page on RM web I retired to bed with my copy of Armstrong Whitworth a pioneer in Diesel Traction and what did I find? A picture on page 112 of the back of lady armstrong's cab. To make it worse I had got the pipe wrong. So I have had to wait all this time knowing that my model was wrong, its been driving me crazy. So today the offending pipe was removed and replaced with one that more or less follows the prototype.

 

 

Then some more detailing was added. Including a small protrusion on the traction motor cover not mentioned in the instructions. The cab hand rails have been fitted along with one of the fuel filler caps. The air hoses were added along with he air pipe which runs across the buffer beam. Getting these right took an extraordinary length of time. Next time i'll go for the loco with less detailing.  

 

To finish the body I need to fit the other filler cap, lamp irons and exhaust pipe as well as the cab roof which needs forming to shape. To fit the exhaust pipe needs the cab roof to be in place as it comes through the cab and out the roof. 

 

 

 

 

 

After that there is no getting away from the chassis.

 

regards

 

David

[Twright]

Great work

[david65061]

Dear All

 

It has been a while since I posted but I haven't forgotten you all. I have been very busy with such things as work and family life but I have managed to squeeze a small amount of modelling in.

 

Once the exhaust pipe was fitted into the cab back the next job was to fit the roof. I used a method suggested by my good friend Brian Love which allows the roof to be removed for painting. I rolled the roof to shape on a camping mattress. Then a soldered 1mm brass bar to the inside now the trick is to make this an interference fit between the cab sheets so it holds the roof on. I cut the bar, filled it to be an interference fit then soldered it on. I am very pleased with the result and once the model is painted I will add a little glue to the bars to attach the roof permanently. A hole needed to be drilled in the back of the roof to clear the exhaust pipe.

 

  The first bar added to the roof. note the exhaust at the back of the cab.

 

The model with the completed roof attached.

 

the roof up turned so you can see the bars.

 

The only job left on the body now is to fit lamp irons.

 

Now on to the frames.

 

 

there are a lot of holes to be opened out in the frames. The kit was designed  to use sharman wheels on 2mm axles which are no longer available. I am using gibson wheels so all the holes for axles needed to be opened out to take 1/8" axles. To be fair to Chris he did explain this to me when I bought the kit. Giving the option of 2mm or 1/8" hole in the final drive gear. I could have put reducing sleeves into the wheels but decided I would make  a better job with 1/8" axles. So a lot of work later with cutting broaches so the holes stay true. I had very saw fingers. But the frames were ready to assemble.

 

 

The kit has primitive compensation built into it. It does not use horn blocks but two beams each side which fit over both the axles. If I can not get it to work I will always have the option of a rigid chassis.

 

The completed chassis. note the 2mm brass rod for the pivot for the front axle. The kit also includes a custom gear box so that was also assembled.

 

 

regards

 

David

 

 

 

[Twright]

Great progress, really looks the part.

[david65061]

Dear All

 

I remembered I had not fitted lamp irons to the loco so I after a very frustrating evening I managed to fit some. I ended up having to drill a hole into the edge of the buffer beam the solder some scrap etch into the hole. I am still not sure they will remain attached in the long run if they are given a clout, but I try to treat my models gently so I might be ok.

 

Once the lamp irons were on the body was finished so I cleaned it up ready for painting.

 

 

 

 

Monday morning was sunny, warm and not much wind a perfect painting day so the body and chassis are now in primer. Unfortunately while typing this I realise I have missed the rail off the front and back of the chassis so that will need to be added and another layer of primer will then be needed.

 

 

 

 

A trip to halfords will be needed for some satin black before I can finish off the body.

 

regards

 

David