Jack374 Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 Looking really good Jack. Where did you get the coupling hooks from? I need a few for the MXA Lobsters wagons I'm making. Cheers Cheers Sam, they're from Brassmasters and you get 24 for £2.50... I normally order a couple of sets and this has lasted me about 2 years of detailing rolling stock... http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/couplings.htm Their website is full of good stuff, mainly for finescale or finer gauges (EM/P4), but some of the accessories like coupling hooks are very fine products for a really reasonable price. Thanks, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Well today I bit the bullet and started the PH Designs kit. This is my first 'proper' brass kit, and all went well to begin with. The circular filler was formed around a pencil, then refined and attached to the lid with solder. The part on top of the lid was soldered too, and then everything was cleaned up and put to one side to begin on the main walkway. The supports are really quite fine, and the ones attached to the mesh bit with half etched tabs are especially fragile. These were all folded up and a small amount of solder was added to each one to add stability. It was at this point that I managed to snap two off, but luckily these were a pair (one on each side). After this clumsiness, the filler was soldered to the walkway and then the whole assembly was glued onto the tank. The instructions say solder to the tank, because the chrome finish can be scratched away to show a film of copper. Underneath this is plastic, and I couldn't for the life of me solder to the copper, so I opted to superglue the assembly in place after scratching away the finish to bare plastic (the tank will be weathered so no need to preserve the chrome). The original handrails were then glued to the supports, and the two missing brackets were added from small pieces of brass. The new walkway is very sturdy now it's glued to the tank barrel, and I've got no worries about snapping bits off because they're all made of brass. The components are certainly more realistic and refined than the cast originals, and I think the afternoon spent constructing this part of the kit was worth it. I've enjoyed building this kit so far, however I think I'll take heed of an online blog of a professional model maker when he says that it's quite a challenging build...he wasn't wrong! Next will be the ladders and chassis walkway, and I've learnt from today that patience is key and produces a very accurate and realistic model, if built with care. Thanks, Jack. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 That's very smart job Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Hi, I haven't updated for a while because of school, but now I'm off for six weeks! I've been fiddling with my VT 57309, and I've now finished it. So......here's what I did... I added the missing lights in the same way as the 66; blu tack some tiny LEDs to the black light housing...but I wired them differently. First, scrape away some of the coating of the curcuitboard tracks where the front and rear negatives, and the pos. common come off the decoder (working on an 8 pin version. Then solder on some wires.... image.jpgimage.jpg And the second pic shows the resistors soldered in. This is a sequence showing the light options now...day h/light, night h/light, no headlight (shunting) and rear. IMHO it makes a massive difference to how it looks... image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg I've also made a working representation of the dellner from a kadee, and mounted it on a pivot with a magnet at the bottom... image.jpg image.jpg As per the prototype, one exhaust port must be blanked off (plastic strip): image.jpg ...And last but not least...I need a pendolino to go with it So cut a hole in the front and glue a kadee in (at the right height) image.jpg image.jpg And they go round my track seamlessly. Thanks, Jack. Did you ever post anywhere how exactly you created the coupling for these? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 (edited) Did you ever post anywhere how exactly you created the coupling for these?It appears I didn't! Partly because it's still not fully finished as the coupling has a tendency to want to move up when it's attached to a pendolino, meaning the kadees uncouple. I'll need to revisit the magnet system for this, which I'll get round to eventually! Well I've taken a few photos to try and show how it works. Basically, four squares of plastic strip had holes drilled in them to accept some 0.9mm steel wire. Two of these were glued on to the kadee draft box and two were glued behind the bufferbeam either side of the hole (see pic). A piece of strip was added just behind the coupling and a pair of 1mm diameter magnets were glued on, one on the box and one on the plasticard, but I'll need to look at this to make the coupling stay down..,possibly a bigger magnet? I've not had much time recently, but I did attempt one of the ladders for the walkway on the ICA...and if I thought the walkways were fiddly, the ladder is on another level of finesse! I'm not sure it's salvageable, so I'm looking into other options because many hours per wagon just isn't feasible. I'm thinking brass ladders (possibly MSE) and Shawplan mesh, but I'll have to get both and try them before I settle on one way of doing the wagons. Thanks, Jack. Edited January 23, 2017 by Jack374 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 It appears I didn't! Partly because it's still not fully finished as the coupling has a tendency to want to move up when it's attached to a pendolino, meaning the kadees uncouple. I'll need to revisit the magnet system for this, which I'll get round to eventually! Well I've taken a few photos to try and show how it works. Basically, four squares of plastic strip had holes drilled in them to accept some 0.9mm steel wire. Two of these were glued on to the kadee draft box and two were glued behind the bufferbeam either side of the hole (see pic). A piece of strip was added just behind the coupling and a pair of 1mm diameter magnets were glued on, one on the box and one on the plasticard, but I'll need to look at this to make the coupling stay down..,possibly a bigger magnet?IMG_2896.JPG IMG_2897.JPG IMG_2898.JPG I've not had much time recently, but I did attempt one of the ladders for the walkway on the ICA...and if I thought the walkways were fiddly, the ladder is on another level of finesse! I'm not sure it's salvageable, so I'm looking into other options because many hours per wagon just isn't feasible. I'm thinking brass ladders (possibly MSE) and Shawplan mesh, but I'll have to get both and try them before I settle on one way of doing the wagons. Thanks, Jack. Tell you what when it works I'll send it to you to do Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
birch1 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Liking the kit so far! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 Many thanks for the comments and likes...much appreciated as ever Well I've only really tidied up tonight in the hour I go to do some 'modelling', so I'll post a pic of the ladders instead. There is way too much solder on the rungs and I've already distorted the etch no end, so this assembly probably isn't salvageable. I've made a few inquiries about brass mesh and ladders, so I'll wait for these to arrive and then set about making a better job of it! I modified the kit slightly by adding a piece of brass strip along the bottom of the ladder as well as a final wire step, all seen on pictures of the real thing... I've done a few very minor bits to the 'Osprey' too, which I'll detail later in another update when I done more. Thanks, Jack. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 An update! This evening I've finally finished off my Virgin 57. The coupling was finished by gluing in a substantial magnet to the floor, and a small section of 2mm steel rod to the coupling pocket, which holds it down sufficiently to pull a 9 coach Pendolino round my small test circuit. The pictures will show what I did better than I can explain... Next, with the 57 only being a 4 axle pick up chassis, I added the missing pick ups because I was having power issues (i.e. stalling). This was done with some Slater's phosphor bronze strip, bent to shape and soldered to the existing pickups at one end, with a hole drilled to secure it in the middle with a short piece of wire. It now runs very smoothly with hardly any shuddering Finally for now, I've assembled the end walkway and steps for the ICA tank. This was as per the instructions, but because I couldn't solder to the cast handrail, I've added some strips of plasticard underneath the mesh, the ends of which will receive holes to accept the handrail... More soon, Jack. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Evenings.... So I've done another couple of hours tonight. The first job was to add the handrail to the ICA 'silver bullet' walkway, which was a simple job of drilling holes to accept the handrail and then gluing it in, then filing down the excess plastic once dried. Next I did some more on the IKA megafret. This entailed drilling out the buffer holes and also a hole for the coupling, then constructing the buffers from plastic tube and strip. Following this, a coupling hook was added and the supports around it built up as before. Also the missing footstep and remodelled footstep were added, and the two bars for the test handles were added from wire as before... I've just ordered another set of megafrets from eBay for a favourable price, so these will bolster the existing pair and mean I can run a nuclear trial train...more on this later. These will also form a rake with the DRS IDA 'super low' wagons when they arrive, which will represent rakes of wagons in use daily on the West Coast Main Line, two rakes of which (and a rake of silver bullets) I'll be seeing tomorrow morning on my day off in 12":1' scale! Thanks, Jack. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Well the last couple of days I've been building bridges, and not metaphorically either! This is for a Leyland MRC club layout I'm currently helping build, I should really set up a dedicated thread but we're only just making visible progress. The bridge will take a farm track over a two track mainline, and is the scenic break at one end of the layout. The tracks don't go through it perpendicularly, so the arches will be interesting to make. Also there is a fairly steep incline up to the bridge that will have to climb some 150mm in a fairly compact space. Construction is in stiff card (found at the back of A4 paper pads) and plywood supports and deck, which were glued and pinned in place. Visible in the background are the next two megafrets for detailing. Metcalf stone card sheets will be glued to the bridge to represent the masonary, and I'm hoping to build the arches with this without any additional support such as the stiff card used for the main structure. And whilst I've got a bridge, some wagons and a newly finished loco and unit, time for a posed shot! Small 'shelfie', perhaps? Thanks, Jack. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Well relative normality has returned, in the form of some workbench modelling. I've had a root through some drawers and a tidy up, and decided to prioritise projects and put some on the shelf (literally). In other words, the workbench now looks like this... The DRS coaches, including the MK2 BFK 17159, have made a reappearance, along with 47580. The Network Rail stock and megafrets (which I've now acquired another set of...now a total of 6 wagons) will still be worked on too, along with the Osprey conversion and build. Sounds like a footy update! So this evening I've worked on the DRS coaches, by rubbing them down and adding handrails to one. This was done with 0.45mm steel wire and includes the end handrails, door handles and door grabs... I've also blanked off one window and marked where the new one needs to be created (above pic, the pencilled circle). The blank has been filled with Squadron filler and is currently drying. Also, I found this in a drawer, which, along with 47580 (once primed), will receive a BR blue coat... Although it'll become 37401, it could easily be 37407 in its undercoat at Loram Derby. Happy modelling! Jack. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Evening... So tonight I've done a bit on some coaches. First I sprayed the window on one of the DRS coaches, which I'd filled, and this has turned out near perfect. The new handrails and door handles can be seen in this shot too.. Next I added the same handrails to the Network Rail RTOV, and also added a new grille plating from paper, which had rivets punched through. I think after numerous attempts I've finally cracked this, although a bit of filling was required beforehand. Some engine cut off pull cord enclosures were fashioned from some box section too: I've also attempted to drill out the lights, although one cluster came off so some super gluing was required: And that's all for now. I'm off for a week next week, although I've got some work to catch up on so we'll see how much gets done. Thanks, Jack. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted February 9, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2017 I've also attempted to drill out the lights, although one cluster came off so some super gluing was required: IMG_2950.JPG When will it be ready for a run on DL? Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 When will it be ready for a run on DL? Cheers, Mick Well it's taken a couple of years to get this far...maybe the retooled Bachmann 158 will be released before this is ready? It's already out of date because I won't be applying the silly stickers that have been applied recently, so I doubt it'll be allowed round unless you have a 'retro' running session... Today I've primed the areas of the RTOV that needed doing, and following the filling of a couple of gaps in filler under the grille, I think this will be ready for a yellow dip! And in its third incarnation, after experiments in tinfoil and brass, I think I'm finally happy with the paper grille: Off to Cubs for me now...what better way to end the week than with a room full of energetic kids?? I love it really... Thanks, Jack. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 Evening all... Once again, many thanks for all the likes...it really does spur me on So, this evening I've added some brake discs to my EWS 67. It's been needing them for a while, but I've not been able to get hold of the proper Intercity Models ones, so some standard ones will do. I know they're not of the correct pattern, but they'll do for me. The discs, from MJT components, were (whilst still on the fret) painted with some Humbrol 32 enamel, making sure all the recesses were painted, then this was wiped off and tidied up with a cotton bud and thinners, so the paint only remained in the recesses. They were polished with a clean cotton bud afterwards, then cut off. The outside of the wheel tyres were painted in no. 32 too, then the discs were added. Not too arduous a task, but it makes a huge improvement IMHO. Just need to sort the buffers out now as they sit way too low... Also this afternoon I've been building this... A little large for my railways, but still fun all the same. It's been built and unbuilt and cast aside for some time, and I've built it up again with the hope of selling it on...my eyes were stinging after finding all the parts in my many boxes and drawers of Lego...I never realised I had so much! They say you never grow out of Lego but I lost interest...sad really, but I wouldn't have spent half as much time modelling if I'd have kept at it. Thanks, Jack. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted February 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2017 Also this afternoon I've been building this... IMG_2963.JPG A little large for my railways, but still fun all the same. It's been built and unbuilt and cast aside for some time, and I've built it up again with the hope of selling it on...my eyes were stinging after finding all the parts in my many boxes and drawers of Lego...I never realised I had so much! They say you never grow out of Lego but I lost interest...sad really, but I wouldn't have spent half as much time modelling if I'd have kept at it. Thanks, Jack. Hey! I started with Lego - many, many years ago. Save some basic Lego 2x4 Lego blocks. Apparently they're very good for making the outer casing of silicone moulds for resin casting (I'm sure you'll have a go at this some time.....) Cheers, Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 Hey! I started with Lego - many, many years ago. Save some basic Lego 2x4 Lego blocks. Apparently they're very good for making the outer casing of silicone moulds for resin casting (I'm sure you'll have a go at this some time.....) Cheers, Mick Yes I've heard of this, and I probably will...I've already thought many times 'I should moulding a part for that', but never bothered. I've got enough standard blocks to build a 12":1' house! Thanks, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 14, 2017 Author Share Posted February 14, 2017 So a bit of real and model railways today... Firstly, 9701 has received some more filler to cover the couple of blemishes underneath the grille, and also a large scratch I'd made in the bodyside. This has been smoothed down and is now ready for a coat of white primer. And today I've been distracted by this...I do have a model of it so I suppose there's a tenuous link to this thread, but suffice to say I had a lovely day starting off at Arten Gill Viaduct (the place of the photo), then I walked over Blea Moor tunnel to Ribblehead. The sun was out in force during the walk, but at either end of it when the train was due, it disappeared... Normal service will resume shortly. Thanks, Jack. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 A little more done this evening and yesterday.... I've been concentrating on the underframe and bogies. This required a lot of chopping about (with a Dremel, which I don't get to use often ) to remove some of the components to make way for the fuel tank. Studying pictures of the prototype is essential for this, and whilst I 'guesstimated' the fuel tank size, the photos show clearly which boxes need chopping and changing. So to start with the grille side (cab to the left), a battery box had to be removed, along with another smaller box, and a small tank (found in the spares box) was added, made of whitemetal. On the opposite side (cab to the right), I changed the air con fan to a single fan type, and although this should be bigger and centrally mounted, it'll do for me. Following this, a crude fuel tank was constructed from plasticard offcuts, and although it is a bit rustic it won't be seen so I can live with the scruffiness. After this, steps were added from strips of plasticard on the chassis and bogies, and so were some pipe runs.... Pictures will explain better than me Thanks, Jack. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 So not much has been done recently due to a heavy workload, but I've managed to do a couple of bits this evening after an enjoyable show at Preston...I caught up with a few mates from both on and off line and the excellent modelling on show today has definitely made me think I can do more modelling So firstly, I added yet more handrails to stock, this time 977868, and also filed off and sanded down the raised door attachments that aren't present on stock today... And now this. 67017 has been a long standing workbench project, that I started about 7 years ago (wow!) and they say a project is never really finished, and I now believe it! I thought I'd finished it, but the buffers were slightly too low for my liking, and the bottom of the valance always caught on any layout, so I've had a look at what needs to be done. For a start, the ride height was a bit low, so under each bogie clip I've added (with wire supports) a small piece of plastic strip, which brings it up to the correct height... But this didn't solve the problem and the buffers were still too low, so some drastic action was taken and I cut off the two valances Both actually came off very easily due to the weak glue bond. I'll reuse everything on them (buffers, pipes etc.), and tonight I made some new ones from plasticard, placed in front of a new Hornby 'skip' which I'm taking some measurements from: That's all for now...many thanks for your continued following and likes and page views, all of which are hugely encouraging Thanks, Jack. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 Evening... So (yet another) new project, this time one that follows in the footsteps from another member of this parish, whose methods I am (roughly) following...cheers Mr Makin. So I found a couple of Bachmann VGA vans on eBay in EWS livery for a very reasonable price, and thought why not. I aim to have a couple more to go with some other wagons in an enterprise or MOD rake. The first job was to figure out how to get in to one of them, as the weight was rattling about freely. Once I worked out how (there are two screws located under the roof panel, which has to be prized off), this was secured with two screws with a plasticard washer on one of them... I've also decided to put a flashing tail lamp in, so I cut a large hole in the chassis to accommodate this: And finally, the intact wagon was painted in frame dirt, to look like the real things: It looks at the minute like it's had a fight with a landslide, but I'm hoping (with a few more washes) it'll become this: Seen at Warrington Arpley in 2014. Just as a footnote...I'm not very impressed with Railmatch paints, as I've had to replace numerous colours because of the lids welding on so tight that they break when I try and open them, so I think I'll find suitable humbrol colours henceforth. That's all for now, Jack. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrB Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Evening... So (yet another) new project, this time one that follows in the footsteps from another member of this parish, whose methods I am (roughly) following...cheers Mr Makin. So I found a couple of Bachmann VGA vans on eBay in EWS livery for a very reasonable price, and thought why not. I aim to have a couple more to go with some other wagons in an enterprise or MOD rake. The first job was to figure out how to get in to one of them, as the weight was rattling about freely. Once I worked out how (there are two screws located under the roof panel, which has to be prized off), this was secured with two screws with a plasticard washer on one of them... IMG_3029.JPG I've also decided to put a flashing tail lamp in, so I cut a large hole in the chassis to accommodate this: IMG_3030.JPG And finally, the intact wagon was painted in frame dirt, to look like the real things: IMG_3028.JPG It looks at the minute like it's had a fight with a landslide, but I'm hoping (with a few more washes) it'll become this: IMG_3023.JPG Seen at Warrington Arpley in 2014. Just as a footnote...I'm not very impressed with Railmatch paints, as I've had to replace numerous colours because of the lids welding on so tight that they break when I try and open them, so I think I'll find suitable humbrol colours henceforth. That's all for now, Jack. Hello Jack, A wee tip on the Railmatch Jars, if you put them upside down in a cup of boiling water this softens the paint and they open much easier. Regards Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted March 12, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 12, 2017 Hello Jack, A wee tip on the Railmatch Jars, if you put them upside down in a cup of boiling water this softens the paint and they open much easier. Regards Roy I try to store paint containers upside down. So if any skin forms with the air space, it's away from the lid. I have a couple of small clamps that I use to make sure the lid stays on once I've closed the tin. Leave upside down overnight and the lid seals with no problem of it leaking. Another tip for jars - use a small piece of plastic - say from a carrier bag - in between the lid and the jar. Cheers, Mick 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack374 Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Hello Jack, A wee tip on the Railmatch Jars, if you put them upside down in a cup of boiling water this softens the paint and they open much easier. Regards Roy I try to store paint containers upside down. So if any skin forms with the air space, it's away from the lid. I have a couple of small clamps that I use to make sure the lid stays on once I've closed the tin. Leave upside down overnight and the lid seals with no problem of it leaking. Another tip for jars - use a small piece of plastic - say from a carrier bag - in between the lid and the jar. Cheers, Mick Cheers both...I'll have to try the boiling water and upturned storage ideas...having said I prefer humbrol paints, I opened a tin of 33 Matt black today and it was solid. :/ I've weathered the wagon further today, although it's far from finished. I may have to dismantle this one too to spray the ends in primer...I'm thinking an EWS yellow coat on the ends? It's not too vibrant like warning yellow, so should weather easier because it's already dull. Thanks, Jack. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now