Killybegs Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Hi John Did you have to move the anchor points for the brakes on the chassis? You really are improving the breed beyond anything I've ever seen or thought about. Quite simply stunning...want to sell it? Mike Thanks for the kind comments Mike. The holes in the chassis seem to be pretty much in the right place - at the same height as the centre of the axles and slightly forward of the mid point between the axles. I used 0.5mm brass wire projecting 3.25mm outside the chassis. 2mm long bushes hold the brakes in alignment with the outer face of the wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted October 27, 2015 Author Share Posted October 27, 2015 Following this thread with interest, really enjoying the modelling on show. Spurred on by seeing some old signal box diagrams of the boxes at Worcester, I'm looking to learn more about the railways of Worcester during the "steam era", do you have any book recommendations that cover the history of this period? A quick search of a popular online book retailer showed there are a few of the Vic Mitchell books available but I don't always find the standard of the photographic reproduction is that high with those (just my opinion!). So Killybegs, can you recommend any specific titles or other works you have found invaluable in the research for this layout? Thanks. There don't seem to be many good books on railways in Worcester, no 'Last days of Steam in Worcestershire' or the like. However, there have been several excellent articles in 'Great Western Railway Journal' over the years and these are a good source of information and photographs. You can find an index here http://www.gwrjournal.com/. The last two or three issues have had articles on Worcester in addition to those listed in the Index. Hope this helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinT Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 Spurred on by seeing some old signal box diagrams of the boxes at Worcester, I'm looking to learn more about the railways of Worcester during the "steam era", do you have any book recommendations that cover the history of this period? A quick search of a popular online book retailer showed there are a few of the Vic Mitchell books available but I don't always find the standard of the photographic reproduction is that high with those (just my opinion!). Don't overlook the Railways in Worcestershire website http://www.miac.org.uk/index.html Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock67B Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 John, Superb and intricate workmanship as usual. I apologise that my 'fat fingers' have managed to hit the wrong buttons a couple of times - what you see othe page is what I intended! Very inspirational, thank you. Kind regards, Jock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted October 28, 2015 Author Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) The basic chassis is finished and cleaned up ready for a coat of primer. The pipes to the rear sandbox have been added and the cut-outs for the front bogie wheels have been reduced in size. I have done some more work on the motion support bracket, drilling and filing a couple of holes in the rear face and adding a front face and bottom. There's a lot more on the top of the bracket on the prototype but fortunately it's hidden under the footplate. The cylinders are also finished and they will be joining the chassis in the paint shop. Edited October 28, 2015 by Killybegs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 John, I do like these additional details. Not major items in themselves, but they all add up to creating that solid look that real locomotives have. I'm quite envious of your achievement. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 (edited) The various bits of the chassis have now come out of the paint shop and, after the removal of paint from abutting faces, everything still fits. There is a bit of filling and tidying up to do, particularly on the cylinders that had already had some filling done beforehand. There's nothing like a coat of primer for highlighting problem areas. I think I will also fill those unsightly slots over the axle boxes. I know you probably won't notice them through the wheels but they are annoying me. I think I will also need to slightly adjust the position of the sandbox filler caps on the footplate. Otherwise, not looking too bad. Edited October 29, 2015 by Killybegs 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock67B Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 John, I ave to keep reminding myself that this is only '00', it looks so realistic. Superb workmanship - it deserves to be a fine runner now! Kind regards, Jock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Brinkly Posted October 29, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 29, 2015 Bloody cracking work mate! Can't wait to see her in action soon. Kind regards, Nick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 Today was the day when we checked to see if everything still fitted together after my latest modifications. Well the motion bracket mods needed a couple of the new bits filed to clear the driving wheels. I did suspect that brackets provided in the chassis kit were a little deeper than on the prototype as they appeared to come too close to the top of the brake hanger brackets and I wasn't wrong. The covers on the top of the cylinders needed filing down a bit to allow the footplate to sit down on the chassis. Taking photos is a great way of spotting that things aren't quite right, little things that you don't notice looking at the model leap out t you. Thankfully it also still negotiates a 1200mm radius curve. The next job is to pack out the inside faces of the firebox so that they fit snugly against the chassis. On the real thing there was, of course, a huge cut out in the chassis to take the firebox. So here's photo No. 4! 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted October 30, 2015 Share Posted October 30, 2015 John, Looking very nice, indeed. Are you leaving the brake hangers free to swing to get the wheels in and out? If so, I presume you'll use the pull rod and stretcher assembly to locate them relative to the wheel treads on final assembly?...or DCC operated functional brakes? Dave. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted October 30, 2015 Author Share Posted October 30, 2015 John, Looking very nice, indeed. Are you leaving the brake hangers free to swing to get the wheels in and out? If so, I presume you'll use the pull rod and stretcher assembly to locate them relative to the wheel treads on final assembly?...or DCC operated functional brakes? Dave. Absolutely, except for the DCC operation! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) All the motion and valve gear has now been refitted and a successful run (not under power) completed. Now it all has to come off again so that the chassis can be painted, the wheels can be pinned to the axles and have their balance weights fitted and the con rods and the rest of the valve gear can be chemically darkened. Then it's just the springs, brake pull rods, sand pipes, electrical pick-ups, etc. to complete and fit. I keep thinking that the gap between the underside of the footplate and the tender looks too deep but it seems to be right. Yes, I know the return crank is offset the wrong side of centre at the moment! Edited November 2, 2015 by Killybegs 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock67B Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 A stunning looking loco John, if it runs as well as it looks, it will be exceptional! Kind regards, Jock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 I keep thinking that the gap between the underside of the footplate and the tender looks too deep but it seems to be right. Hi John. Yes, looking very good. It may just be an illusion from the photo, but the loco does look slightly nose down. Have you checked the running plate height, front and back, to check it is sitting level? Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Hi Dave, Yes it is an illusion! Also the top of the cab roof lines up with top of the raised section on the top of the tender which is correct. I have been busy with my ruler and I now know what the problem is. The cab side is 1mm too short, the bottom should be 5mm below the bottom of the valance, but Hornby have made it 4mm. I will not be modifying the bodywork on the loco but I may raise the the 'footplate' on the tender slightly and stick some coal on it, just like on the prototype. Messy people these firemen! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 I think this looks a little better. Excuse angle of rear bogie (missing a spacing washer), wonky pipes and tender body not seated properly, this was put together quickly as I should be working in the garden! 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted November 2, 2015 Share Posted November 2, 2015 Round of applause...exceptional work. Please put some video up of it running, I can't wait to see it weathered. Wonderful model, beautifully crafted and engineered. I think the rear bogie has really lifted your game Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 2, 2015 Author Share Posted November 2, 2015 Round of applause...exceptional work. Please put some video up of it running, I can't wait to see it weathered. Wonderful model, beautifully crafted and engineered. I think the rear bogie has really lifted your game Mike It only seems right that a loco that spent the best years of its life based in Cardiff should have a little bit of Wales. Thanks Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 John One of the reasons I got into modeling was my Father...bear with me...who started his working life as a cleaner at...Canton. Guess which engines he was assigned to? Mike. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 I used the Comet brake pull rod, well I used the two etches provided, drilled out the slots for the cross members, soldered them together and filed the rod roughly circular. The cross members were filed up from scrap etch, thickened at the ends and filed circular to slot into the hangers. All I have to do now is find out what the operating gear looks like and where it goes. Suggestions welcome. This shot shows how the gap between the Hornby firebox and the chassis has been filled with black styrene. I also got around to pinning the wheels to the axles and blackening the rims, so they are now ready for painting. I think we are getting there slowly. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 I have been asked what was I proposing to do about the rather obvious (in close up) nut that secures the trailing truck. It's visible on the prototype but not quite so large. The nut has now been reduced in size and, while I was at it, I decided to see if I could do something about the very visible gap between the truck and the chassis/firebox/ashpan. Of course, I wondered why there is a gap on my model that isn't there on the prototype. Remember the cab saga where the bottom of the cab should have been 1mm lower, well, the whole area of firebox/ashpan and associated valves should be 1.5mm lower. I have lowered the outline of the ashpan but there's not a lot I can do (without an awful lot of work) about the rest. I have also reprofiled the rear end of the chassis (with black styrene) to match the prototype. Between them, these two changes seem to have done the trick. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 .... I think the rear bogie has really lifted your game Yes, I wondered whose that was.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 John, I have tried to scan part of the GA showing the brake arrangement, but it seems to overload my scanning system. However, attached is a hand sketch showing the basic layout. The pull rod extends to the rear, where it attaches to a crank mounted on plates hanging from a frame stretcher in front of the rear coupled axle. The horizontal leg of the crank faces forward and is actuated by a steam cylinder mounted below the same stretcher. All a bit like the arrangement under the cab of LMS locos. Hope this helps. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Yes, I wondered whose that was.... Mike kindly let me have one of his etches which made life a lot easier. The cosmetic axleboxes/springs were hacked off the Hornby bogie. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now