Horsetan Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 .....I thought I was a bit nuts making a working tommy bar for a RIV/UIC diesel coupling. RIV-UIC-Loco-CouplingEditSm.jpg P What size thread did you use for that (remembering that Exactoscale use M0.5!) ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 It's a 16 BA c/s set screw. P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 It's a 16 BA c/s set screw. P A 16BA nut dropped is a 16BA nut lost! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 A 16BA nut dropped is a 16BA nut lost! As is the time looking for it in the Sh@g pile and probably one of the reasons my knees are totally shagged. BUT I developed a method to reduce loss. It used to be send the god kids on a weekly search of the work room floor. This used to be reasonably successful until they wised up. (grew up) . I then realised 5 minutes spent wiring small stuff together saved hours crawling about on the floor. There's probably a formula to calculate time saved. The wiring together also comes in handy when dipping "stuff" in blackening solutions. P 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted August 1, 2016 Author Share Posted August 1, 2016 As is the time looking for it in the Sh@g pile and probably one of the reasons my knees are totally shagged. BUT I developed a method to reduce loss. It used to be send the god kids on a weekly search of the work room floor. This used to be reasonably successful until they wised up. (grew up) . I then realised 5 minutes spent wiring small stuff together saved hours crawling about on the floor. There's probably a formula to calculate time saved. The wiring together also comes in handy when dipping "stuff" in blackening solutions. EscaleAmbisScrew-007-Edit1Sm.jpg P Ah, but it's when transferring it from the box to where it's needed that it usually gets dropped! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) Hmmm. That's point were the swearbox comes in handy and I end up doing my Animal Impression.., Drop is my trigger word. P Edited August 1, 2016 by Porcy Mane Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Axlebox Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 A 16BA nut dropped is a 16BA nut lost! a hoover with a hankie strapped on the nozzle will find just about everything...except the one thing your looking for...but thats how sod's law works! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted August 1, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 1, 2016 a hoover with a hankie strapped on the nozzle will find just about everything...except the one thing your looking for...but thats how sod's law works! The best way to find a missing part is to buy/make a replacement, you'll find the original before the solder is cold/glue is dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted August 2, 2016 Author Share Posted August 2, 2016 (edited) Next on the list for butchery was the casting for the valve spindle guide. The sides are cast solid whereas on the prototype they are open to allow the valve spindle bearings to slide between the top and bottom plates I used a mini disc cutter to do this then tidied it up with needle files. The rear ends were drilled to take representations of the bolts. These will only be fitted once the valve gear is assembled. See before and after shots below. I couldn't fold up the fork on the valve spindle as shown in the instructions as it made the gap between the forks too narrow, so I separated the two forks and soldered them separately to the valve rod. The spindle was then pinned to the combination lever with 0.5mm n/s rod after which short lengths of 1mm tube were soldered onto the rod. Excess rod was cut off and the ends filed smooth. Temporarily assembled it looks like this. Edited August 2, 2016 by Killybegs 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45609 Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Nice! Crafty work there John and without the aid of machine tools too. You really need to join me over on the dark side of the workshop. I'm sure I could help you find suitable equipment. You'll be needing those wheels soon. Now trying to remember where I got up to with them. Cheers...M 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted August 3, 2016 Author Share Posted August 3, 2016 A footnote to my previous post. The inside bearing on the valve spindle/combination lever needs to be shorter than the prototypical outer bearing. This makes it possible to squeeze it past the slidebar bracket when feeding it in through the rear of the valve guide casting while still allowing it to do its job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
45609 Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 (edited) You'll be needing those wheels soon. Now trying to remember where I got up to with them. So I have remembered where I was up to. To be honest, I hadn't forgotten but it has been a long time since I last looked at them. The task today was to bore the axle holes so that they will be a press fit on the 1/8" axles. As a brief recap I have done all of the concentricity critical machining of the wheels and tyres in a set of soft jaws in the lathe chuck. The jaws were machined right at the start to a fit on the steel tyres and have not been disturbed since I commenced work. The axle boring operation consists of two steps. Step one was to clean and true up the original holes in the Bachmann wheel centres. A smaller boring tool than previously used was ground up from some High Speed Steel (HSS) and fitted into a new tool holder. This boring tool is only about 2.5mm wide as the bore it has to fit into had previously been measured at 2.8/2.9mm. The set up is shown in the photo below. Before taking a cut I had a rummage in my box of drills and found a 3mm diameter stub drill. I intended to use the shank of this drill as a simple gauge to check the hole post machining. As I said I only wanted to take sufficient material out to true up the bore. Machining out to a snug fit on a 3mm drill shank would leave just enough material for the second step of axle boring. The photo below shows a wheel after boring. The axle hole looks shiny and this task was done 29 more times (3 sets of wheels) before moving on to the next step The second step is to use a 1/8" hand reamer in the tailstock to produce a very gentle taper on the bore so that the axles will go about half way into the holes before biting and locking the wheel to axle when assembled and quartered. This is a highly critical part of the process and more than a little nerve wracking after having put so much work into the wheels. The technique is to feed the reamer into the bore just a little bit at a time, back it out and keep checking with a test axle that I machined and polished before hand. Getting the right setting was easy enough to achieve, and subsequently repeatable for the other wheels, by using the digital read out (DRO) that I made for my lathe tailstock a few years ago. Each time, before I decided to back out the reamer and check the size, I zeroed the DRO. By doing this I would know, when feeding the reamer back in, that I had reached and, if necessary, gone beyond the last in feed position to cut a bit more metal . Once happy with the fit of the axle in the bore the DRO zero position was not touched and each wheel could be done identically to the previous one. In the photo below the DRO is displaying -3.58mm which means I have 3.58mm to further feed the reamer to reach the set position. Another 29 wheels later I had all of the boring done, and it does get a bit repetitive and boring, but it is not really a job where you can let your concentration lapse. The final photo for tonight is a shot showing and axle inserted into the wheel. I've also added a crank pin and one of JD's coupling rods for extra effect. The soft jaws are now finished with. I can move on to making the axles and doing the last job on the centre driving wheels. Making them flangeless. Cheers for now....Morgan Edited August 7, 2016 by 45609 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 You clever people! Where's the 'envious' button? Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted August 7, 2016 Author Share Posted August 7, 2016 Great work Morgan. That wheel looks fantastic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium dhjgreen Posted August 7, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 7, 2016 Ah, but it's when transferring it from the box to where it's needed that it usually gets dropped! One of the latest single LED torches scanning the area usually finds lost parts for me as they shine out brightly in the beam. Multi LED torches are not anything like as effective. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 I've said it once but it's worth repeating...I hate talent! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 I've said it once but it's worth repeating...I hate talent! It's only available to the favoured few. The rest of us have to settle for less. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 It's only available to the favoured few. Have you asked? I bet you'd get a price... Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 7, 2016 Share Posted August 7, 2016 Have you asked? I bet you'd get a price... More than I could afford. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted August 7, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 7, 2016 Hi there. In respect of not loosing bits and bobs in the first place. I have a portable workbench. Basically it's a wooden tray with a division on one side for tools and a high edge around 3 sides and a lower edge closest to me. So if anything gets dropped it don't go far. Yes I know it's just a glorified tray but hey portable work bench sounds so much better than tray doesn't it? When getting small bits and bobs out of the box to use I stick a sausage of bluetack on the division for the tools and press the items into that. I haven't lost one single bit since I started using the bluetack. Regards Lez.Z. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrowroad Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Axle bore 5.jpgGreat work Morgan that wheel looks absolutely stunning. Robin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted August 9, 2016 Author Share Posted August 9, 2016 The valve gear/motion is slowly coming together. I've done some more work on the cylinders, fitting the overlays, cylinder covers, gland castings, piston valve castings, etc. I also fitted the relief valves but later removed them as the castings in the kit are for the type of valve fitted to later locos. The early locos appear to have had relief valves more like those on the Brits. These will be represented with 1mm diam brass rod and will be the last things to be fitted before the wrappers go on. The slide bars are now finished with the lower halves soldered in position. At the moment the tops are held in place by the slidebar bracket. The cross heads have been united with the piston rods. These were soldered 'in-situ' as that way I could be sure that they were correctly lined up. The instructions suggest soldering the slide bars in position before fitting the cylinder overlays. Don't do this or you will have problems getting the overlays on. Fortunately I spotted this before hand! It's also very important to make sure you get the clearance between the slide bars and the frames correct before soldering them in place. All the 'loose bits' were temporarily pinned together to make sure everything worked. The valve guide casting is still loose at the moment which is why it is at a funny angle. I had to fettle the forked joints on the combination lever and remove a bit more of the valve guide casting to accommodate full movement of the cross head as the lever is raked very steeply when the cross head is fully forward. Apart from that, everything is working smoothly. The connecting rod is a temporary one fitted to check the travel of the cross head. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrowroad Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Good to see all the parts coming together John, very impressive. Just waiting for delivery of a book on the 9Fs to see whether the DB chassis needs any mods for the Crosti. Robin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted August 10, 2016 Author Share Posted August 10, 2016 Good to see all the parts coming together John, very impressive. Just waiting for delivery of a book on the 9Fs to see whether the DB chassis needs any mods for the Crosti. Robin Is that the Irwell Press book by Philip Atkins? If so, it has a big section on the Crostis which appear to have a raised section on the chassis just behind the position of the mechanical lubricator. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrowroad Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Is that the Irwell Press book by Philip Atkins? If so, it has a big section on the Crostis which appear to have a raised section on the chassis just behind the position of the mechanical lubricator. It certainly is so I'm glad it's got a big section on the Crostis. I had a look for the later Irwell publication 'The Book of the 9F 2-10-0s by Richard Derry' but it is out of print and secondhand copies are a silly price. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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