RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 22 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 22 4 hours ago, Kevin Johnson said: Nice work on the Limpet Steve.👍 Yes, it's good Steve is sticking to the task! Mike. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 29 Author Share Posted March 29 Both are prepped and ready for transfers now, I've just painted Kleer on the area's where the transfers would go, got some transfers from Railtech and they recommend using decalfix so that's my plan. 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Transfers done, I'll let everything dry, maybe a pin wash then let it all dry again and a coat of matt varnish before weathering. 9 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 I succumbed to buying a Hornby TXS Bluetooth sound chip at Ally Pally and got to say I'm really pleased with it. It's never going to be top of the range but for the price I think the sound is good and it was easy to install. I do like the Bluetooth aspect but prefer to operate it on my normal DCC system. A good introduction to the world of sound and it has def got me hooked, even if I don't get the full engine sounds on my small layout! 436352232_7419772968116560_7565661485669724512_n.mp4 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Probably cheaper than either of my sound-fitted models. That little Lkw was $200! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 8 Author Share Posted May 8 I've been messing around with a Lima class 47 for a while and finally decide to paint it BR Blue. It's been primed the I sprayed the yellow warning panels, using Railmatch Enamel. The photos have shown some defects which aren't really noticeable, but I'll correct them. My question is, is it a simple matter of using wet and dry to smooth out the defects then just re spraying the patches that it creates, or do I spray the whole yellow end again? 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted May 8 Share Posted May 8 I would repaint the whole ends after removing the defects. Helps to keep a consistent color. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 97406 Posted May 8 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 8 Surface preparation can be done to a degree beforehand but the primer coat is the best way of spotting and eliminating any lingering defects before turning to the top coat. Yellow is quite a difficult colour to cover any differences of tone in the primer coat so it must be uniform. I’d rub down the cabs, then a final coat of primer, then the top coats of yellow. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Thanks guys, I'm wondering if a white primer was a good idea as I couldn't notice those defects with it. I might try grey next time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 97406 Posted May 9 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 9 You may have picked up some dust with the yellow coat, plus I find my eye becomes more ‘trained’ throughout the process and I spot things I missed before with successive coats. I do examine the work between coats and sand off any little pimples of dust that inevitably accumulate during a respray between each coat. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted May 9 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 9 On the subject of undercoat, white or grey make a slight difference to the final look of the yellow coat, neither right or wrong, but compare them side by side, you may have a preference. Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 I think you're correct in basing yellow off of white. Gray would dull the yellow a bit, black even more so. Most pics I've seen of 47's in blue, they seem a bit cleaner and more vibrant than the rest of BR. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 9 Author Share Posted May 9 Thanks guys, other than the blemishes, I'm pleased with how the yellow has gone on. When seen from a distance the marks are not really noticeable, the one on the cab side will be covered in BR blue so I'll gently sand them, I'm worried about making more of a mess so I might just weather the other's out and lesson learned for next time, I've got a few Lima Locos I want to upgrade. I've read some stuff about using Vinyl masking tape for a clearer line, have you had any experience of that, I've only ever used Tamiya tape more masking? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enfys_Rainbow Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 Pleased to see this - have always had a soft spot for the Lima 47. One of the first locos I detailed/weathered - now sadly sold (but I actually wish I'd kept it)! Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halvarras Posted May 10 Share Posted May 10 18 hours ago, sb67 said: I've read some stuff about using Vinyl masking tape for a clearer line, have you had any experience of that, I've only ever used Tamiya tape more masking? About 12 years ago modellers were saying good things about a vinyl masking tape called Eurostar (or Electrostar according to George Dent, although he was likely confusing it with an EMU!) so I obtained a roll - mine was red, I think that was the standard colour. Sadly I was not impressed - I found that pulling it taut to obtain a straight line stretched it, and between application and painting it shrank back to its original length leaving trails of red adhesive on the model. In fairness my usual method of slicing it into thinner strips on a piece of plate glass as an economy measure probably didn't help; however wrapping 10mm (may have been less) wide tape around a c100mm cardboard ring was not a brilliant idea as mine developed a peculiar shape and became ever stickier - maybe the roll had been in stock for a while before I got hold of it, but it certainly appeared to have a finite shelf life. In the end I used it up on a silicone sealing job in the bathroom as I didn't want it anywhere my models! But that was my experience, others may find it OK. Just watch for that stretching issue though....... These days I use Tamiya as well, although I still miss the black Alfac masking tape sold by Howes some years (decades) ago - that was a little thicker than Tamiya but paint build-up against its edges wasn't an issue as enamel paints needed fewer coats back then........different subject though. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted May 10 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 10 (edited) I tried it too, red tape, not at all good. Now use Tamiya tape Edited May 10 by MJI 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium James Makin Posted May 11 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 11 I must agree with the comments above on the tape - when I’ve used the vinyl tape in the past I’ve also found it hard to stay stuck down as well as the leftover residue, bit of a sting in the tail when it finally is removed! I’m a Tamiya tape convert and prior to final painting I’ll always make a point of running my fingernails over the leading edge of the tape to press it as far into the bodyshell as possible in an attempt to get a sharp edge. A trick I read in the railway mags also, (especially useful when hand-painting) is to dry brush a tiny bit of paint over the masked edge and to let that dry, before painting over with the main coat of paint as it helps prevent seepage under the tape, and for any tape that has to go over panel lines, I’ll score these with a scalpel and press the tape into the grooves too. Hope this helps! 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 13 Author Share Posted May 13 @James Makin @MJI @Halvarras Thanks for your comments, I'll stick with my Tamiya tape, I've a fair bit of it any way! I've had a burst of modelling energy! I'm got the 47, adding to a weathered 08 and I want to start detailing a Hornby class 25. I've started by working on the headcode, which I want to read 0000 at both ends. While I was at it I thought I'd change a Bachmann 25 to something in keeping with the 80's. Does anyone know what would shift the yelow paint from the Hornby 25? Many thanks. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 14 Author Share Posted May 14 (edited) An evenings work and I've changed the headcode, the 0000 is actually from a Heljan class 27, I'm not sure if the font would be different? Next up the roof grill and try to remove the yellow paint on the front end. Edit- On closer study the 0's look a bit small, even though they fitted the space perfectly, or is it my eyes! so I might have to try and find some class 25 figures? Edited May 14 by sb67 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 15 Author Share Posted May 15 I've put some headcodes on the loco. I found some Class 25 headcodes but they were too big for the Hornby box, so I'll have to stick with the Class 27 0000's, at the other end I found some dots, actually Class 35 headcodes! The number height on the correct class 25 headcodes was actually the same height as the Hornby box! The 0000's look wonky but it's the way they are misaligned! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 03060 Posted May 16 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16 6 hours ago, sb67 said: I've put some headcodes on the loco. I found some Class 25 headcodes but they were too big for the Hornby box, so I'll have to stick with the Class 27 0000's, at the other end I found some dots, actually Class 35 headcodes! The number height on the correct class 25 headcodes was actually the same height as the Hornby box! The 0000's look wonky but it's the way they are misaligned! Hello Steve, after your first post regarding the slightly thin looking 0s on the headcode I went back onto the Class 25 Photo thread to look at a Flickr image that I posted on there of a 25 coming through the washer at Holbeck, the 0 in the headcode was noticeably thinner than the other numeral and letters in the code. Unfortunately I can't work out on my iphone how to repost it here and my tablet doesn't work with RM Web anymore for some reason (on which I do know how to link things !) It's worth a look if you're interested, it's about 3 pages from the last post on the thread (if that helps.) Regards, Ian. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 16 Author Share Posted May 16 2 hours ago, 03060 said: Hello Steve, after your first post regarding the slightly thin looking 0s on the headcode I went back onto the Class 25 Photo thread to look at a Flickr image that I posted on there of a 25 coming through the washer at Holbeck, the 0 in the headcode was noticeably thinner than the other numeral and letters in the code. Unfortunately I can't work out on my iphone how to repost it here and my tablet doesn't work with RM Web anymore for some reason (on which I do know how to link things !) It's worth a look if you're interested, it's about 3 pages from the last post on the thread (if that helps.) Regards, Ian. Thanks Ian, I've just had a look at that. 👍 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted Monday at 17:45 Author Share Posted Monday at 17:45 (edited) Started to remove front end and underframe details using a scraper and various files. I've been looking through books etc and at the moment I'm looking at basing the loco on a photo of 5216/25 066 at London St Pancras in the 70's. It still had gangway doors but there was a radiator grill and bodyside steps plated over. I believe the exhaust would have been moved by that time as well, but it doesn't show in the photo. It's never going to be 100% accurate and I know there's way more I could do but I hope to get a good impression. I haven't decided yet whether to fully repaint it or just re paint the ends, I quite like the Hornby Blue. Edited Monday at 17:49 by sb67 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted Tuesday at 05:43 Author Share Posted Tuesday at 05:43 I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on the subject of Class 25 roofs? I'm going to fit an etched roof fan grill, but I fancied having a go at replicating the revised exhaust fitted during the 70's. I'm not sure of the dimensions or where, exactly to fit it, also what to do with the old circular exhaust. In the Diesels in depth class 24/25 book, it says some were plated over, others just left in place. I can't find a photo of a prototype pic of the loco I'm basing it on, but I believe all members of the class had this exhaust mod. Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted Tuesday at 13:57 Share Posted Tuesday at 13:57 I don't know myself. I imagine the discussion has been had to death in the Sutton Loco Works thread on their 25. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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