Jump to content
 

Recommended Posts

As things stand at the minute I'd have to photoshop in a train as I only posess a couple of wagons and a brake van. Certainly nothing befitting a 2-10-0 ha ha.

Wagons are on the next shopping list so that when I finally get my black Tyne Dock 9F ready it'll have something to pull! I'm hoping to try and get a Consett 56T ore wagon kit sometime soon, just so I can say I have at least one. Sadly a full rake is way out of reach of my budget for the forseeable future so it'll be coal hoppers for now. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

As things stand at the minute I'd have to photoshop in a train as I only posess a couple of wagons and a brake van. Certainly nothing befitting a 2-10-0 ha ha.

Wagons are on the next shopping list so that when I finally get my black Tyne Dock 9F ready it'll have something to pull! I'm hoping to try and get a Consett 56T ore wagon kit sometime soon, just so I can say I have at least one. Sadly a full rake is way out of reach of my budget for the forseeable future so it'll be coal hoppers for now. 

 

What I used to do in days gone by was to get a Hornby web image of a loco and remove numbering and so on then colourshift and overlay some saved graphics.  Old tech I can't use now but basically a cover mounted banner maker program and paint which is part of windows.  Some good results and gives a reasonable impression of what one may end up with and to correct things before committing to the model.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless they were nuclear powered conversions without tenders...

 

Would still need water unless they were condensing locos, but then they would need a large condenser so B.R. would have just converted a Mk.1 to run behind the loco.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Another thought I had was should I colour the valve gear and coupling rods, like they did for the 08s? Red may suit but was there a policy to determine coupling rod colours as have seen red and yellow rods on shunters (VoR where not painted up as we know).  My concern would be it looking too toy like and getting paint off if it didn't suit would be a problem when using those Great British Locomotives models as the valve gear is frequently one piece or excessively glued in so would have to get it right first time.

 

Thoughts welcome!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Another thought I had was should I colour the valve gear and coupling rods, like they did for the 08s? Red may suit but was there a policy to determine coupling rod colours as have seen red and yellow rods on shunters (VoR where not painted up as we know).  My concern would be it looking too toy like and getting paint off if it didn't suit would be a problem when using those Great British Locomotives models as the valve gear is frequently one piece or excessively glued in so would have to get it right first time.

 

Thoughts welcome!

Steam engine rods were generally not painted, especially on big engines.  Presumably leaving them in bare metal made it simpler to detect cracks & flaws as they developed?

 

But it's your engine in your livery so really any choice is down to you ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Again we're in the realms of uncertainty. The VOR engines had red painted reversing crank but bare metal rods and gear, but then was that VOR being individual? Then again look up a pic of Gordon from the Longmoor railway and it has red rods that look rather smart. Decisions, decisions…...

Maybe we need a load of people to build different variations so we can compare and pick the best combinations ha ha.

Link to post
Share on other sites

In other news although I've been a bit busy I've managed to do snatches of work on Bluey in passing.

Big Bluey has been weathered up then further weathered again as it wasn't quite dirty enough. It's base is finished.

Just a few finishing touches then I'll post some pics.

 

Am looking forward to seeing it, once all the bits I need are here, will start.

 

Will have to have a look at Gordon...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Here we go, as promised. Bluey finished and on it's base.

post-23197-0-39348700-1410617138_thumb.jpg

post-23197-0-53532500-1410617248_thumb.jpg

Not perfect I know, but my first proper go at weathering a locomotive so many lessons learned which after all was the reason I built this model, to practise.

post-23197-0-92514600-1410617294_thumb.jpg

PS the coal is a crushed up lump that fell from the tender of Blue Peter years ago. The ballast is crushed from a piece that had fallen to the pavement from a bridge on the Leamside line trackbed when I was cycling down that way.

 

I thoroughly recomment a 'practise' project before attempting work on anything cherished. It's taught me a hell of a lot! As you can see the old KAD kits can scrub up pretty well with a bit of superdetailing.

If I have any second thoughts it's that I would've preferred to practise on a 'runner' rather than a static, but never mind. This goes on my 'trophy' shelf with the rest of my railway oddments.

Hopefully this has inspired someone else to have a go at something similar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, thanks for your comments. All much appreciated.

The black Tyne Docker is next in the queue and that one DOES run. 

Calamity has befallen my Hornby 9F in the form of the curse of mazak striking it's tender parts! I wondered why the tender wheels wouldn't turn and then realised the metal chassis had gone banana shaped and crumbly! So that one moves down the queue for now til I sort that out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, thanks for your comments. All much appreciated.

The black Tyne Docker is next in the queue and that one DOES run. 

Calamity has befallen my Hornby 9F in the form of the curse of mazak striking it's tender parts! I wondered why the tender wheels wouldn't turn and then realised the metal chassis had gone banana shaped and crumbly! So that one moves down the queue for now til I sort that out.

 

I have an almost complete tender drive unit (possibly the original type - X800?) which is surplus to requirements, bought as a secondhand lot and has no brushes, if of use.  Will have to dig it out and see if it works but if it is only the motor block, it will be fine.  If I had seen it had mazak rot when I first got it, would have binned the offending part.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That could be cool! As my Hornby 9F is loco drive it's only the lower inner tender chassis I need to hang the wheels on. I've kept the outer chassis with the pick ups still attached. Currently I was thinking of making an inner chassis from brass but a proper Hornby one I could adapt would be so much better.

 

Will PM you once I found the drive. If I recall, it has spoked wheels, middle ones being the flangeless ones so it's nearly as old as me!

 

I won't be able to achieve something as good as yours due to my limitations but still want to produce something a bit different to the norm.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Now it's my turn to have a go, thanks to the wonderful Corbs for donating his chassis & valve gear.  I wish I could do stuff as good as, well, just about everyone else really but hopefully will do some in progress shots of "Big Blue B*****d" (some of you may well know the meaning of that one!)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...