Jump to content
 

I want to build a loco kit GWR steam 4mm


MJI

Recommended Posts

Jeff and Mark

 

You should use low melt solder (I use Carrs 70 degree stuff) and if you make a mistake boiling water will un-do it.

 

My comment about the normal solder is that back in the 60's, 70's & 80's some builders used normal solder. Most used either Evo/Bostic or epoxy glue. These along with low melt solder are very easy to take apart.

 

I guess there is still the odd person using standard solder, just to prove they can. But low-melt solder with a normal iron is so simple and forgiving, I use a smaller size tip in my Antex iron as it slows up the heat transference. I do use super-glue for the small detail parts 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I find I can solder brass OK, but YEARS since I did white metal, I suppose I should practice on some bogies I got for my Lima BR siphon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally I would aim the kit building effort at the currently weakest RTR model on your list, which is the 61xx. This subject has other advantages too: plenty of planes at right angles to guide you to an 'all square' build of the body; it is roomy inside, you are not going to struggle with fitting a mechanism or concealing it; intrinsically well balanced thanks to the symmetric chassis. It has complications, the outside cylinders, slide bars and connecting rod, and clearance for the pony truck; but you have already built simpler mechanisms equivalent to the standard advice of 'build an inside cylinder 0-6-0T', and these are elements that have to be mastered for your chosen subject area.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff and Mark

 

You should use low melt solder (I use Carrs 70 degree stuff) and if you make a mistake boiling water will un-do it.

 

My comment about the normal solder is that back in the 60's, 70's & 80's some builders used normal solder. Most used either Evo/Bostic or epoxy glue. These along with low melt solder are very easy to take apart.

 

I guess there is still the odd person using standard solder, just to prove they can. But low-melt solder with a normal iron is so simple and forgiving, I use a smaller size tip in my Antex iron as it slows up the heat transference. I do use super-glue for the small detail parts

 

Yes, I do use Carr's 70, imported from the UK as I haven't found an equivalent in the US. I did get a variable temperature iron here though and set it just below the white metal melting point.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Martin, I would thoroughly recommend the two Right Track videos: "Locomotive Kit Building Parts 1 and 2".

I got them quite cheaply from ebay and think they are quite inspiring.

The presenter, Tony Wright, has a very simple, no nonsense approach and he builds a Finecast 61xx.

The best bits, incidentally, are his slightly acerbic commentary and shots of him unflinchingly holding on to components as molten solder touches his finger tips! Not something I would recommend but fascinating to watch.

 

Cheers

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi Martin, I would thoroughly recommend the two Right Track videos: "Locomotive Kit Building Parts 1 and 2".

I got them quite cheaply from ebay and think they are quite inspiring.

The presenter, Tony Wright, has a very simple, no nonsense approach and he builds a Finecast 61xx.

The best bits, incidentally, are his slightly acerbic commentary and shots of him unflinchingly holding on to components as molten solder touches his finger tips! Not something I would recommend but fascinating to watch.

 

Cheers

Simon

 

 

Will do, noticed they are DVD whic is good as my only working VCRs are a 1982 Sony portable and 1984 Sanyo HiFi

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...