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Kernow Beattie Well Tank Announcement


Andy Y
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Mine came today.

 

Quite nice although there is a small tight spot running backwards. Hopefully it will go away as it is run in.

 

Another observation, The first run had a leaflet with instructions, but this one does not. Is that normal?

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Mine came today.

 

Quite nice although there is a small tight spot running backwards. Hopefully it will go away as it is run in.

 

Another observation, The first run had a leaflet with instructions, but this one does not. Is that normal?

 

 

Under the foam, with the tool fret ?

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Mine came today.

Quite nice although there is a small tight spot running backwards. Hopefully it will go away as it is run in.

Another observation, The first run had a leaflet with instructions, but this one does not. Is that normal?

Hi mate,

 

Sorry to hear of your lack of instructions.

Can you PM me an e-mail address and when I'm back home on Tuesday I'll E-mail you a set, and also get some put on my web site.

 

Sorry again.

Cheers

Dave

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Internally, the motor has changed and there is a weight in the smoke box which can be seen as soon as the smoke box door is taken off.

 

I noticed the slight camber on both my old and new versions. Running qualities are about the same, except of course the new one is not run in yet and has a slight sticking point in reverse.

 

30587 should have the shed plate on the smoke box door in late crest as shown by this photo: http://www.delcampe.net/page/item/id,219298714,var,SR-Beattie-Well-Tank-30587-HAMPTON-COURT-1962-Railtour-Loco,language,E.html

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Hi Guys,

 

I hope this is a silly question but... on how many wheels should the BWT pick up?

 

Looking frm the cab to smoke box my one picks up on both wheels of the front axle and both driving wheels on the right hand side. There is no connection from the driving wheels on the left side, except to each other.

 

Has mine got a loose pick up?

 

Thanks

 

Luke

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First may I congratulate Dave on getting his first production to market! This is the 'first first'. The 'second first' will be the O2, as his first new model. This is a great achievement and marks a historic step in UK model railways.

 

The front and rear buffer beams should be different heights. This was a debate had way back in the thread.

 

The continued leaning of the loco to one side or the other is a shame (Dave was this not picked up during your inspection?).

It is my suspicion that this may be something to do with the alignment of the split chassis parts, resultin in one side of the axle being higher than the other.

 

For me (having thrice returned my original Dapol 30587 to KMRC for exchange due to the lean), this is the biggest assembly weakness of these models. Maybe now Dave has some spares to play with he can investigate replicating the issue and possible solutions... It strikes me that it is likely something rather minor...

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Despite ringing Kernow on Tuesday 03 March about a change of address they have posted it to my old address on 10 March, I have only just got round to checking my emails (all 581 with another 221 spam), will ring on Monday to see if it has been returned to them or not.

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An interesting observation, but the height of the buffers is lower at the rear than the front, this was prevalent on both the older and newer version (they align smokebox to smoke box, and bunker to bunker, but don't align smokebox to bunker and bunker to smokebox

 

 

 

 

The front and rear buffer beams should be different heights. This was a debate had way back in the thread. 

 

Indeed the model is per the prototype that has differing buffer beam heights at each end so is totally correct.

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Hi Guys,

 

I hope this is a silly question but... on how many wheels should the BWT pick up?

 

Looking frm the cab to smoke box my one picks up on both wheels of the front axle and both driving wheels on the right hand side. There is no connection from the driving wheels on the left side, except to each other.

 

Has mine got a loose pick up?

 

Thanks

 

Luke

:( I now know the answer.

 

I very carefully started to dismantle my BWT, checking electrical continuity as I went.I now have a organised pile of bits but I know what is wrong:

 

The left hand side of the chassis is electrically dead. The pick up to the sprung un-powered front wheel is fine, but there is no electrical connection from the driving axles on the left hand side.

 

The problem is exactly the same as the Hubble telescope suffered from: there is a layer of paint where it should be. In Hubble's case it made the mirrors focus wrong, in the BWT it insulates the sprung pick up from the left hand side of the chassis. I know how to repair it but I don't have a small enough screwdriver to release the pick up and clean the paint away.

 

I've contacted Kernow and suspect it will be winging it's way back to Cornwall.

 

But it is a beautiful model!

 

Luke

 

PS the Kernow website sell as a spare a smokebox door for 30587 with a 73F shedcode plate...

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There are no spring pick ups on the drivers of this model. It is a split chassis design with electricity going through the wheels then brass bearings to finally one side of the chassis block. There it meets a wire to a small circuit board and then the tiny but powerful coreless motor.

 

I know because I spent an hour realigning a wheel set that was out by one gear tooth from the other pair (both driving pairs are geared on this model which helps avoid stresses on the conrods, unless they are misaligned in which case the stresses are increased immensely!).

 

I converted the original Dapol model to DCC sound, but thanks to its smaller motor this new model has more real estate inside, what is more the coreless motor does not whine like its open frame counterpart, and is deceptively powerful for a motor no larger than 7mm in diameter. Look forwards to the O2.

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There are no spring pick ups on the drivers of this model. It is a split chassis design with electricity going through the wheels then brass bearings to finally one side of the chassis block. There it meets a wire to a small circuit board and then the tiny but powerful coreless motor.

 

I know because I spent an hour realigning a wheel set that was out by one gear tooth from the other pair (both driving pairs are geared on this model which helps avoid stresses on the conrods, unless they are misaligned in which case the stresses are increased immensely!).

 

I converted the original Dapol model to DCC sound, but thanks to its smaller motor this new model has more real estate inside, what is more the coreless motor does not whine like its open frame counterpart, and is deceptively powerful for a motor no larger than 7mm in diameter. Look forwards to the O2.

Yes, I should have said wiper pick up!

 

The electrical path wheel - bearing - chassis is fine but there is no connection between chassis and motor, so it's boxed and going for a rest cure in Cornwall...

 

It is a bit of a struggle to get the geared wheels back in once you've got the out isn't it!

 

And yes, roll on the 02 and the 1361 (and the 14xx)

 

Luke

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Ahha, you screw the chassis block to the running plate, fit the wheels, take the screw out holding the chassis and running plate, fit the keeper plate (with front pair of Wheel) and screw togethor.

 

The biggest headache is the brake rodding. I hope the O2 is easy to convert to DCC sound.

Edited by JSpencer
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Mine ran perfectly straight out of the box - it will of course need running-in.

 

I'm sure that almost all BWT's were fine. I suspect I was just unlucky. I only realised there was an issue when I ran it track that wasn'the as clean as it should have been.

 

It went back to Kernow this lunchtime.

 

Luke

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Positive e-mail from Kernow already!

 

It will be making it's way back tomorrow.

 

V.impressed with Customer Service from Kernow (Again!)

 

Now I just need to be able to put it back together...

 

Luke

Still V.impressed with Kernow!

 

Replacement arrived in return post! It's spend some time on my DCC Concepts Rolling Road and now potters back and forth in near silence.

 

Luke

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Has anyone else tried double-heading their models of late crest 30585 & 30587 as per the South West Suburban Railtours of 1962? Of course, one model is from the first batch, and the other is the latest batch with the coreless motor.

 

I have found that the latest one (30587) goes way faster than 30585 for any given voltage, presumably due to the different characteristics of the two motors. As I don't run DCC, I'm wondering if there's any way of getting the two locos to run at roughly the same speed.

 

The only solution I can think of involves fitting the loco body off 30585 onto a new chassis (from 30586). Does anyone know if they can be swapped without surgery?

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Has anyone else tried double-heading their models of late crest 30585 & 30587 as per the South West Suburban Railtours of 1962? Of course, one model is from the first batch, and the other is the latest batch with the coreless motor.

 

I have found that the latest one (30587) goes way faster than 30585 for any given voltage, presumably due to the different characteristics of the two motors. As I don't run DCC, I'm wondering if there's any way of getting the two locos to run at roughly the same speed.

 

The only solution I can think of involves fitting the loco body off 30585 onto a new chassis (from 30586). Does anyone know if they can be swapped without surgery?

The running plate piece of plastic running from buffer to buffer of the square splasher version is a different moulding to the round splasher version. Check the buffers and you will see they are different sizes.

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