Simond Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 well, I'm feeling very self righteous, bench cleared and cleaned as we have visitors at the weekend (and it's in the lounge) Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 Well, first day back from holiday and full of enthusiasm, (or is it fudge and clotted cream?) – I thought I would have a gentle ease back into the layout. First off was a further weathering try-out on the chimney base, which abuts the coal tippler and needs to be a bit grubby, previous efforts had made it almost black, but had lost the definition in the brickwork, so some of the weathering powder was removed and a wash of brown mortar wash applied, still not sure if it’s right but these things often take a couple of tries. The chimney came in for completion of the cladding, with all but one course at the bottom now completed, I will leave it a day or two to dry out before tidying up the corners and adding the detailing brickwork. What I found surprising was that it didn’t use much more than a sheet of brickwork cladding, just as well as I only had a sheet and a half of stretcher bond left. A strip of brickwork corbelling was then added to the top of the water tower, to provide the support for the white metal tank panels that will be added later. One thing that has become apparent, while I have been away, is that the current method of building structures in foam board is still not quite right. I had started to get problems with distortion in walls when applying plastic card cladding until it was suggested that using solvent free UHU was possibly the solution. Even though not in contact with the foam filling the fumes were somehow percolating through the cardboard face, causing collapse of the structure beneath, and giving wobbly wall surfaces. The solvent free UHU has proved suitable to get a decent surface on brick card attached to the foamboard. Once that problem was resolved I thought I had cracked it, but have now found that the butt joints at corners seem to move with the warm weather and several have failed, the UHU seeming to remain slightly flexible. I have now clamped the affected parts up, and put fillets of ‘Gorilla Glue’ along either side, in the hope it will tie it all together, but would be interested to hear what anyone else is using to assemble similar structures, as I’m still not entirely happy with what I’m doing. This is, after all, the reason for building this layout, to get it right on the next one, so again the layout is proving invaluable. As technology has advanced I may even turn to laser cut MDF for ‘Cadbury’ if I can’t get a satisfactory stable and solid structure, and can con someone into doing the CAD work for me. Finally, talking of conning people into CAD work, I unwrapped the goodies that arrived while I was on holiday. Of the etched windows I already had, some were ideal as long as I was cutting the openings, but as I was using a mix of kit panels and proprietary building bits I needed custom stuff. Thanks to a fellow club member I now have just what I needed, in exchange for him slipping some bits into the etch. The link building windows can now be painted, fitted, and this building can be finished. The one for the building at the end of the loading deck is also looking fine, and the main warehouse and office windows are also ready for painting and fitting and seem to be a pretty good fit, though the offices will actually have opening lights to the windows. On the proprietary windows I had bought the opening lights were the least successful part, the opening light was just produced by etching around the panes, leaving a large gap if they were modelled closed. The new ones have been made as separate etches, with half etches to front and back of both the main surround and the opening light, this allows the window to be modelled shut, or open, All in all quite a productive afternoon, the roof is getting a clear-out tomorrow with a view to getting some of the junk out of the work room. The trapdoor to this part of the roof space is large enough to take the building boxes, so I can regain space to work on the rest of the layout and get the buildings packed into their transit boxes and protect them when not being worked on. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Peter, It's coming along very nicely. The chimney has worked out very well, but the windows are at least an 11/10. Very nice. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Peter, It's coming along very nicely. The chimney has worked out very well, but the windows are at least an 11/10. Very nice. Best Simon Thanks Simon, the chimney was much easier to do than I thought it would be, it's not by any means perfect, but there isn't much available commercially. The windows are superb, I wish I had been able to do the artwork myself, but the time taken to get sufficiently competent in AutoCAD would put everything else back. It's to my mind one of the (many) advantages of being in a good Club, I painted a members Hunslet and he has now done me the artwork, and he's got few bits for himself at no cost. I'm just hoping he wants some more bits as I've still got etches for my Lion conversion and the Class 139 to get sorted. I'm now 2 weeks off the first anniversary of the layout, it's taken much longer than I thought, but doesn't it always. The target is to have all the structures completed so I only have painting, scenery and detailing to finish the layout. If I can get the workroom a bit tidy over the next couple of days I might get a chance to run the layout a bit more, (though I keep getting thoughts that I might swap the point servo's for Minx Microdrives, to do away with rodding under the scenics.) Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I wish I had been able to do the artwork myself, but the time taken to get sufficiently competent in AutoCAD would put everything else back. Have you tried Inkscape? I think you could produce artwork for etching with it, and I'm finding it quite straightforward to learn the bits that are needed for railway modelling. I'll be using it with my new Silhouette Portrait cutter to make my own windows, and more! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 (edited) Hi Peter, I have used a hot glue gun to join the corners with foamboard buildings. You have to be quick though and get things lined up first time! Alan. Edited July 14, 2015 by alant Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 Have you tried Inkscape? I think you could produce artwork for etching with it, and I'm finding it quite straightforward to learn the bits that are needed for railway modelling. I'll be using it with my new Silhouette Portrait cutter to make my own windows, and more! I might give it a try John, it's not that I don't want to learn, but I have generally found that you need to be using it all the time or you have to re-learn it all again the next time you come to use it, and then some techie Herbert has decided you need more features and upgrades are required. I took the easy way out on this one, as I had done a re-spray as a favour and this was a reciprocal deal, but there are sometimes limits to how many liberties you can take with a mate. Certainly for buildings it's almost all squares, and I could then get all the brickwork bonds right around the openings. At the moment I'm just using whatever's to hand but 40 odd years in construction tell me that some of my walls have the wrong brick bonds and strange brick sizes around doorways and windows. I just have to hope nobody looks too closely Hi Peter, I have used a hot glue gun to join the corners with foamboard buildings. You have to be quick though and get things lined up first time! Alan. Thanks Alan, not thought of that one, somehow I assumed the foam would melt with the heat, it's certainly worth using as a reinforcement on the existing buildings and I will give it a whirl on the next one. I'm beginning to think the UHU is o.k. for the building carcasses but where I seem to be running into problems is with the roof's, I know all about balancing stresses either side of the boards but it's not always that simple with the likes of roof tiling, I had similar problems with the roof of a signal box I built for the Club layout, and that was all plastic card, so I'm thinking it may be mdf roofing for the Cadbury buildings if I can't crack the stability issue, though the main ones are corrugated iron sheeted, so I can hide a multitude of sins. There are still a roofs to construct for the building hiding the fiddle yard and the main loading dock building, so I will have a go at making it a bit more substantial and see how I get on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I might give it a try John, it's not that I don't want to learn, but I have generally found that you need to be using it all the time or you have to re-learn it all again the next time you come to use it, and then some techie Herbert has decided you need more features and upgrades are required. I found the RMweb Inkscape Tutorials on building a coal office and coach bogies for the Silhouette cutter very useful. They seem to cover pretty much every feature needed for railway modelling, except adding text and colouring. I usually find manuals, tutorials and videos confusing and unhelpful, as they teach features I don't need, and skim over or completely ignore the ones I do, and I'm left with too much to work out for myself, which is why I've always got stuck with drawing on a computer in the past. I started writing a summary of how to do the things I'll need, and in what order, so I don't have to keep relearning when I forget what to do! I'm also getting to grips with GIMP, concentrating on the features I need to work with Inkscape, like altering the perspective of photos. I agree about upgrades, but at least Inkscape and GIMP are free and open source, so they don't put pressure on you to buy upgrades you don't want. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I have used a hot glue gun to join the corners with foamboard buildings. You have to be quick though and get things lined up first time! Apart from the speed needed to get the parts aligned, there's the problem that most of the foams used will melt when in contact with the hot glue. Experiments with scrap sheets beforehand are recommended. Regards Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I have a cool melt glue gun which (whilst still hot enough to not wish to touch with hands) happily glues extruded polystrene foam and foamboard without melting anything. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 I have a cool melt glue gun which (whilst still hot enough to not wish to touch with hands) happily glues extruded polystrene foam and foamboard without melting anything. Thinking about it my Dremel glue gun has 2 heat settings, so I will give it a go, I've been tidying up most of the day, but noticed one of the foamboard/resin joints has started to move, so there's a perfect chance to test it out, thanks for that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 Take Armin's advice! (Or go for the epoxy rapid!) S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Thinking about it my Dremel glue gun has 2 heat settings, so I will give it a go, I've been tidying up most of the day, but noticed one of the foamboard/resin joints has started to move, so there's a perfect chance to test it out, thanks for that. My own glue gun is only a very basic cheap affair which seems to work fine with foamboard. Best to try first on a couple of test pieces as you say to be certain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 Thanks to Armin, Alant and Simond for the glue gun advice, this week has seen some further deterioration of items glued with the solvent free UHU, firstly the end wall of the buliding cloaking the turntable, and the engine house completely disintegrated while in its storage box. The end wall looked quite ugly when I removed it, I'm beginning to think I had a duff batch of glue, as the rest of the buildings seem perfectly stable. So out came the glue gun, a new end wall has been cut and fixed with it and it's fine, and the resin to foamboard on the engine house also seems to be holding well, so thanks for the advice gents. Most of the week has been spent clearing the workroom, as I could hardly function in there. Having cleared a car load of junk out of the roof over the garage the Cadbury boards that wouldn't fit through the trapdoor of the main roof have found a safe storage space, along with the boxes for the buildings for this layout. A quick tidy up (3 days) of all the other rubbish from the workroom has seen it transformed into a place of work rather than a tip. In the course of sorting stuff out I found the boat stanchions I had bought some months ago, and put together some protective handrails for the secondary loading deck. The only other progress has been final measuring of the last undeveloped building plot on the layout, which has to fit adjacent to the turntable exit and take the bridge that helps cloak the exit tracks. The final shell for this is now being marked out for window openings and cladding. Overall a productive week, even if it took a step or two backwards to correct the dodgy glue saga, it's beginning to look as if I might get the building shells all ready by the end of next week, the first anniversary of what isn't turning out to be a 'quickie', but at least the 'shape' of the layout is starting to form. 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 I've been having problems with solvent free UHU on my card mock-up buildings for Cheapside Yard. Both the covered bridge over the fiddle yard entrance and the narrow gauge ticket office came apart on joints that were under a bit of pressure. The glue is still tacky, and they will hold for a while, then come apart again. Cheap supermarket superglue has fixed the bridge! It's quite an old tube, but I haven't used UHU enough to know if it's age, or a general problem with the adhesive, or with me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
L&Y Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 It may not be so quick but it is looking very very good. You have virtually built a layout in the time it's taken for me to come up with a plan! If I can even get near to your build quality I will be very happy. Great inspirational thread & very helpful it is too. The only modelling I've managed since Christmas it to order a Loco. My favorite thread on here by a long chalk! Keep it coming!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Hi, I expect that you will get/see all of my 'LIKES' and 'CRAFTSMANSHIP/CLEVERS' - sorry about that! Just been catching up - mainly looking at the photos (wish that I had more time) - what wonderful work, ingenious, neat and a very realistic outcome and feel. Thanks for the inspiration! Kind regards, CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 It may not be so quick but it is looking very very good. You have virtually built a layout in the time it's taken for me to come up with a plan! If I can even get near to your build quality I will be very happy. Great inspirational thread & very helpful it is too. The only modelling I've managed since Christmas it to order a Loco. My favorite thread on here by a long chalk! Keep it coming!! Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated, though it's true to say I am fortunate in having more modelling time than many, and after all, I didn't have to come up with a plan at all. Hi, I expect that you will get/see all of my 'LIKES' and 'CRAFTSMANSHIP/CLEVERS' - sorry about that! Just been catching up - mainly looking at the photos (wish that I had more time) - what wonderful work, ingenious, neat and a very realistic outcome and feel. Thanks for the inspiration! Kind regards, CME Again many thanks, when 25 notifications came up at once I thought RMWeb had blown up. The main 'feel' of the layout is, of course, down to Mr Gravett, whose inspirational work designed it, and whose work sets a standard to aim for, even if you never reach it. There's no doubt in my mind that figures such as he, contributors on RMWeb, and fellow Club members help to raise my standards by trying to emulate their standards. Had a bit of a play today with the last buildings adjacent to the turntable exit. The geometry around here is pretty wild, with few right angles. The link bridge has been fabricated in foamboard, ready for corrugated iron cladding, having measured and assembled the back wall the wrong way around it was re-drawn and tacked together with masking tape. This section wraps around the chimney base and has some very odd roof shapes. The main roof for the building masking the turntable has been formed, and the building that the walkway 'lands on' the other side of the turntable entrance, has been clad and the window openings formed. Some form of further view blocker will be required, in the form of a pipe and cable gantry, to help mask the exit to the fiddle yard, but that will have to wait until a trip to Telford to get some appropriate angle sections and girders, as I'm just about run out of stock. Final assembly of the shells for these buildings, and cladding, is the target for next week. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 A brilliant day today, started when the early bird got the worm. A quick scan of the Gauge O Guild Sales and Wants at 8 O'clock found a nice Ruston, only put on last night, for a very reasonable price, this was secured and a cheque is already on its way. This will provide further motive power, even if's probably a bit OTT as I now have about 8 0-4-0's ready or nearly ready, and the prospect of an Ixion Peckett to be ordered at Telford, but I should always be able to get my money back. Given that it was about half the price of the Electrifying Trains kit I think it's a bargain, though a sound chip will cost almost as much again. (if I can get it to fit) Just after I saw this loco the postie brought a box of goodies, the trial Minx microdrives arrived. When I first saw these some years ago although I liked the concept I don't think they had switching for frogs and they were not DCC friendly. This has now changed, with two switches, decoder sockets, and a neat switching system, which may see a change to my original point control panel, that could move it from in the roof of the main building, to a remote that can be either front or back of the layout (or even both). The DCC option is not of interest on this layout, but may be useful on Cadbury if I introduce an element of computer control. The reason for the change from servos? - Nothing I can put my finger on, I'm still sold on servo's as a method of control, but I have struggled to stop them chattering and find them a bit of a pain to set up. The trial of the microdrives is to see if they are a suitable, if not more expensive, alternative. The servo size is ideally suited to this layout, with all the works sited above the boards, the actuator was screwed down and linked up to the point first, and the control unit connected up to a 12v DC supply. Even accounting for reading the manual, for a change, it took about 20 minutes to get the servo connected,calibrated, (which is pretty much automatic), and working faultlessly. What's more it has continued to behave all day with multiple switching, so I am impressed. Next on the list was to try the remote switching. A link from the -ve input to a block on the control unit, and a lead from the +ve through a single pole single throw switch back to the control unit, sees the point move each time the switch is moved on or off, very neat, furthermore the second control on the unit will work from the same +ve feed, meaning three wires will control 2 switches, ( and five wires would control all 4 points on the layout). This neat switching solution means the prospect of 5 wires for a mimic panel that can be portable and plug in anywhere, and with the addition of a single -ve feed and double pole switches, lit track indicators. The ESU option saw me having to use 9 wires minimum for the mimic panel, so the more elegant Minx switching is a definite bonus. The size of the actuators means I can move them from under the loading deck, and remove any mechanical linkages from below yard finishes, a quick mock-up with sleepers shows I can put a reasonably convincing lever frame cover that will mean I have access should I need to replace any damaged components without causing damage to finishes. So it looks like I'm sold on the replacement solution, a further pair will be picked up at Telford, it will cost twice as much as the ESU + servo option but for the moment I think it's the right way to go. Having spent most of the afternoon playing I didn't get much time to do anything productive, a large window etch was cut down into two small windows for the link bridge. The window openings have been cut out, and the surface of the foamboard cut back to recess the frames behind the corrugated cladding. All in all not a bad day. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 One of the intentions for the layout that I noted very early on, was that when substantially complete the layout was to fit into the Club Stand, used for publicity and exhibition appearances. The stand has developed over a period of years, and is regularly used for an 8 foot N gauge layout and an 00 one. I hoped that with an O gauge layout we can use the stand at larger scale events. Because the initial design of the Stand was a little cumbersome it was chopped into 4 foot lengths to enable easier transport by car, this has produced a minor problem in that the layout support section is hinged in the middle. Unsure what other groups do to overcome the sag in the middle I decided to see if I could adapt my support system of a folding aluminium ladder to fit into the stand. As luck would have it the height of the counter is the same as my ladder, so it will sit behind the front fascia, but the rear support fouled the ladder, any alteration I made had to incorporate a rear member that hooked into the pins on the existing stand side members. The ladder itself has one major problem in that there are two semi-circular hinges standing proud in the middle, which I would normally sort out with four cross timbers to lift the layout above hinge level. In this instance the need to integrate it into the Stand, and the fact that there was a foot or so of overhang at either end, meant that I needed a separate ladder frame to solve the issues, it would also allow some cross members to be fitted, as the ladder is only 300mm from front to back, and the layout is around 800mm, (Excuse the hopping around between metric and imperial, decimalisation came in my early 20’s and I’m still confused). Having established the distance between the two pins that locate the rear rail I set about raiding the bits boxes for inspiration, four lengths of 36mm square timber, left over from lighting rigs, would provide the main framing, and nuts, bolts and washers combined with old Ikea hanging rail plates would hold it together. Any normal person would have made two frames and hinged them in the middle, but I’m missing the ‘normal’ gene and have to over complicate things, timbers were cut to just over half length, and for the cross rails, and a very complicated and unnecessary hinging framework was built, which folds in on itself for transport. Eight support blocks were then attached through which bolts were fitted, with protruding heads, to take a sliding aluminium cross member for the board supports. The whole thing only needs two bolts removing to collapse it for transport. I will have to strip it down to paint it once it has been trial fitted into the Stand. On the building front the shell for the bridge over the fiddle yard exit has been completed and the structures either side have been finalised, with roof structures added. This is pretty much the end of the buildings, apart from the loading bay canopy which I am still thinking about. The buildings now fit into the two boxes purchased for them, so it’s now down to detailing them and fitting the boxes out to keep them safe in transit. The link bridge has also today received its cladding of corrugated iron, and now just needs painting and the bolt heads fixing. All too late I think I’ve found the answer to the failure of the solvent free UHU, following discussions with fellow Club members who make much better buildings than I can . In short it’s 'Read The F****ng Manual!' I had been slapping a layer of glue on the walls, then putting plasticard or resin walls on until it was pointed out that the instructions call for a layer on each surface, which should be allowed to go tacky, like Evo-Stick, a contact adhesive. - It’s a bit late, but another useful lesson, don’t assume you know how things work, either read the instructions or ask an adult who knows what they’re doing. Thankfully the use of a glue gun, suggested by Armin, has proved a useful additional method of securing walls. So there we are, one year on and although progress has not been as great as I anticipated there are a couple of mitigating circumstances, firstly around a third of my modelling time has been taken up working on my daughter and son-in-law’s properties, so I have been involved in refurbishing a bungalow, two chalets and a recording studio last year. Secondly the removal and re-fitting of a new kitchen at home has been a diversion that’s still ongoing, and finally the arrival of Grandson No. 1, in February, has been a welcome diversion. I have also made things more difficult for myself by choosing to scratch build most of the buildings, I could have been further on with the use of proprietary products but decided that if it was to be exhibited I wanted something vaguely acceptable. They aren’t a patch on those being made by colleagues in the Club, but their inspiration and advice has certainly helped. On the anniversary of the first post I have a working layout with all of the building shells completed, and a firm decision on couplings and point control for ‘Cadbury’ has been made. Although not to be underestimated the only things left are detailing of the buildings and completing the scenic work, such as it is. The advantage of this is that the buildings can be dealt with on an individual basis, and there isn’t much base board left showing. Here’s to the next year! 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 The link bridge had a coat of grey primer today, and immediately showed up a problem. The pasticard sheet I used is quite thick, and on the sloping roof this showed up quite markedly. The only answer I could come up with was to overlay sections of the roof with some much thinner card which was vac-formed, and has improved the look a little. Next the bolts were added with some .45mm pins I had, and a further dusting of grey has rendered it ready for weathering and final painting of window frames etc. Finally the chimney has had some decorative brickwork added to the top, and some banding on the stack. at the bottom I decided that the stack needed blending into the base, so after a bit of a play with shapes I added fillets to convert the octagonal shape into the rectangular base. The hole down the centre of the chimney, designed to take 15mm copper pipe, was added to the base sections, and the pieces were all threaded together into one piece, which can be adapted for a smoke unit in the future, If I want to go down that route. The stack will get some hoops for fixing ladders to, and a lightning conductor, and then it's ready for painting. That's all for a bit now as its off to Bonnie Scotland for a couple of weeks, so no modelling for a while. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Having been away in Scotland for a week or so I have been away from modelling, but not away from spending money! In my search to find a ‘budget’ loco, to prove that O Gauge needn’t be expensive, I have been trying to find a suitable loco for under £50.00. I have missed out on a couple of Lima shunters on E-bay but while away I managed to pick up an Atlas 0-4-0 switcher for just over £40,00. I wasn’t aware that they did these, only having noticed the 0-6-0’s before, it looks to be a better mechanism than the Lima one, and is badged as Rivarossi, the wheels may need a bit of ‘treatment’ as they look a little on the wide rimmed size– time alone will tell. The main problem was the size of the thing, like the Lima 0-4-0 it’s out of proportion, to my eye. The beauty of projects such as this is that you can’t waste too much money, I would hesitate to hack about an expensive loco, but this is fun. First of all it was dismantled to assess the various components, a quick study indicated that it would be possible to reduce the size of the cab and shorten the overall length. I had a look at cutting the width of the bonnet and footplate down, but decided it was a step too far, similarly the cab height could be trimmed, but it’s not out of scale and I’m probably being distracted by the size of the Ruston. Firstly the cab was cut away from the bonnet and 5mm removed from either side of the front panels below the windows, then the protrusion to the rear of the cab was cut off. The cab sides came in for treatment next, with a section of the window about 10mm wide removed, followed by a 10mm section taken out of the cab rear middle window. The component parts were tacked together to check fit, the inner sides will be re-inforced with plastic card later when the gaps are filled. The back of the ‘box’ that was on the rear of the cab was then trimmed down and re-attached to the hole at the rear of the cab.The roof came in for similar butchery next being shortened and narrowed by 10mm, and the prominent exhaust was cut from the bonnet. This gave an impression of the final result of the superstructure butchery, and looked good enough for me. Next two chunks were cut out of the footplate, one at each end, to restore some proportion to the whole thing and the wheel cover plates were cut down at each end to fit beneath the footplate. The front of the cab was then also trimmed down to fit the remaining void. All it needs now is filling the holes and finishing off, which as we know will take 80% of the time. Without the need to spend a great deal more money I should have a passable loco for the layout for under £50.00, proving that you don’t need a lot of money or room to have fun with O Gauge. All in all a pleasant afternoon’s diversion to get me back into the swing of things. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 I'm on the lookout for a cheap option for a pre modern image loco, but as my definition of modern image is anything after 1914, these newfangled diseasal things are no use! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 I'm on the lookout for a cheap option for a pre modern image loco, but as my definition of modern image is anything after 1914, these newfangled diseasal things are no use! Sadly, apart from the ubiquitous Lima 4f (which will scrub up quite well if you take the time to cut out all the spokes with a coping saw), there's less choice. I have got the old Highfield Sentinel shunter and the Y6-ish tram running on Lima mechanicals, but sadly the availability of good wheels on a steam loco at a budget price is rare. However if when you get your Terrier it should solve a lot of problems, given that 6 Slaters wheels, a motor and gearbox would knock a large hole in £100. Failing that it's keeping eyes peeled at swapmeets and the like to find the undiscovered bargains. - Good luck! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 I have to admit I've been a bit naughty as I'm fed up with waiting for the Terrier, but I'm not ready to admit what I've done yet!! My ideas for cheap locos revolve around tram engines with skirts to hide OO wheels, as they can be pretty close to O fine standards, but I'm not organised enough yet to start butchering Hornby chassis and other such dubious acts yet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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