BITTON

[Andrew P]

Bodge,

 

Why don't you try Dingham's? They are compatable with 3 links, and will work with magnets (And have a delay feature).

 

have a look around on their website http://www.dingham.co.uk/

 

It's what i intend to use, when i get round to building a layout...

 

Andy g

Andy, I need a Like Very Much button, that's just brilliant, how have I missed these little beauties before? They look easy to fit and very realistic in operation, can you do me a favor and also suggest these to Jeff for KL2 and Mike for Dent, as they will both need to do some Shunting as well.

 

Cheers for the Link mate.

 

Bodge.

[Andrew P]

Having lost myself on that website for about half an hour, I now find myself wanting to buy a set or two

Hi Lee, they do look the Dogs don't they, I'm dying to give some a try, I can still keep my Kadees and Three Links that I have for fixed rakes along with any makers hook and loop that is still on a lot of stock. At the prices quoted a lot could get done for very little outlay.

 

Bodge.

[RedgateModels]

Andy - I have a Dingham starter pack in O gauge going spare if it's of interest?

[Clive Mortimore]

Dear mike61680,

 

Dash it all Sah,

 

I'd have you know that we of the "Ruin Everything Mechanical Eventually" are not some lily-livered infantry battalion cowering in a trench!

 

We stand proudly in our oil-stained dungarees, with spanners at the ready, prepared to face anything you can throw at us.

 

Yours,

 

Maj-General Horace Nom-De-Plum Farquhar (ret'd)

Ah someone else who knows the corps motto "Arte et Marte".

 

 

For you lower mortals it is Latin for "Twist to Open"

[Andrew P]

Andy - I have a Dingham starter pack in O gauge going spare if it's of interest?

Thanks Ian, but back to purely 4mm now I'm afraid mate.

 

Thanks for the offer anyway.

Bodge

[Andrew P]

I've just been out to price up the Celotex and I have Travis Perkins in town and with a bit of trade discount and FREE delivery there about as cheap as I'll get, even cheaper than B & Q or Wicks.

 

I think I'll need 8 or maybe 9 sheets as I have some in storage that will do the end wall all being well.

[freebs]

Hi Lee, they do look the Dogs don't they, I'm dying to give some a try, I can still keep my Kadees and Three Links that I have for fixed rakes along with any makers hook and loop that is still on a lot of stock. At the prices quoted a lot could get done for very little outlay.

 

Bodge.

yep - as soon as I get the track finished, I'll be wanting to get hold of a pack. I'm sure even my hamfisted soldering skills can run to making them up

[Alister_G]

Ah someone else who knows the corps motto "Arte et Marte".

 

 

For you lower mortals it is Latin for "Twist to Open"

 

"REME do not drop boIIocks, they lower them gently to the ground"

[Andrew P]

"REME do not drop boIIocks, they lower them gently to the ground"

My dad was in the REME in the war, he was a proper bloke.

 

Bodge

[Allegheny1600]

I'm impressed that you got the best deal from T-P, Andy - well done, sir!

 

I thought REME stood for "ravish every maiden eventually"!!!!

Gaaw, there must be as many corrupted military anachronisms as railway ones, if not more!

He, he, he!

John.

[Joseph_Pestell]

I've just been out to price up the Celotex and I have Travis Perkins in town and with a bit of trade discount and FREE delivery there about as cheap as I'll get, even cheaper than B & Q or Wicks.

 

I think I'll need 8 or maybe 9 sheets as I have some in storage that will do the end wall all being well.

 

What thickness of Celotex will you be using? I assume 50mm.

 

You could gain some precious mm with the foil blanket stuff - same insulation coefficient but only about 5mm thick (plus a sheet of thin ply to hold it in place).

 

Edit to add: Or is the Celotex fitted between the timber uprights of the shed? Not so good thermally but takes up less space.

Edited September 10, 2014 by Joseph_Pestell

[Ray H]

Andy

 

You seem to be planning specific locos for each train type. How many types of train are you thinking of using and will each fiddle yard siding hold just one train?

[67A]

Dear mike61680,

 

Dash it all Sah,

 

I'd have you know that we of the "Ruin Everything Mechanical Eventually" are not some lily-livered infantry battalion cowering in a trench!

 

We stand proudly in our oil-stained dungarees, with spanners at the ready, prepared to face anything you can throw at us.

 

Yours,

 

Maj-General Horace Nom-De-Plum Farquhar (ret'd)

Why am I not surprised!  

I had an Aunt who married a guy of REME fame, I lived with them in Nottingham whilst working at Derby Loco' & Toton and to be fair he taught me so much about car and truck maintenance it was a godsend in those far off apprentice days! Trouble was he was also off his trolley at times.

My dad was in the REME in the war, he was a proper bloke.

 

Bodge

What happened then!?

[67A]

Andy, I need a Like Very Much button, that's just brilliant, how have I missed these little beauties before? They look easy to fit and very realistic in operation, can you do me a favor and also suggest these to Jeff for KL2 and Mike for Dent, as they will both need to do some Shunting as well.

 

Cheers for the Link mate.

 

Bodge.

Hi Andy,

 

They look the business but you may have to make a decision on 'Dinghams v Kaydee' as the standard under or over track magnets for the Kaydee's would probably uncouple those. Their electro-magnets may work and you still have the option to go that way. I will have to look into it as I have already fitted magnets under the track on Dent.

 

PS

If you are intending to fit Kaydee magnets then routering out a trench 4mm deep is the best way.

[Andrew P]

What thickness of Celotex will you be using? I assume 50mm.

 

You could gain some precious mm with the foil blanket stuff - same insulation coefficient but only about 5mm thick (plus a sheet of thin ply to hold it in place).

 

Edit to add: Or is the Celotex fitted between the timber uprights of the shed? Not so good thermally but takes up less space.

Hi Joseph, it will be 50mm to go between the Battons of the Shed and then covered in Ply.

 

Bodge

Edited September 10, 2014 by Andrew P

[Andrew P]

Andy

 

You seem to be planning specific locos for each train type. How many types of train are you thinking of using and will each fiddle yard siding hold just one train?

Hi Ray, I have several rakes planned,

Coal, x 2, up empty and down full

Vans x 2

Mixed Goods / stopping, x 2

Local Passenger, x 2 and two in each road, DMU and Steam / Diesel 3 coaches

Soda or Fuel by directional

Parcels by directional

Passenger by directional

 

I'm hoping to get 10 or 12 roads in the fiddle yard. Different Locos will be rostered on different trains for variety.

 

Bodge.

[Andrew P]

Hi Andy,

 

They look the business but you may have to make a decision on 'Dinghams v Kaydee' as the standard under or over track magnets for the Kaydee's would probably uncouple those. Their electro-magnets may work and you still have the option to go that way. I will have to look into it as I have already fitted magnets under the track on Dent.

 

PS

If you are intending to fit Kaydee magnets then routering out a trench 4mm deep is the best way.

Evening Mike, Your right and I think I need to try and look at some before I start laying the track so that I know which way I'm going, I hope I can see some Dinghams on Saturday.

 

I definitely WONT be fitting the above baseboard Kadee Magnets, its under board or none.

 

Bodge.

[Ray H]

Thanks

 

I thought I remembered you saying you were hoping for about ten roads in the fiddle yard.

 

You'll know that I've got a ten road traverser albeit that two roads are dedicated to the branch.

 

You score over me though because some of your roads are long enough for two trains. I could do that but it would mean only running DMUs.

 

I could potentially save another road because I have removable coal loads. However, my problem is that there were loaded coal trains in both directions over the line between Bletchley & Oxford and from the one aged timetable that I have seen an extract of, they seemed to run almost as often as the passenger trains.

[Andrew P]

Thanks

 

I thought I remembered you saying you were hoping for about ten roads in the fiddle yard.

 

You'll know that I've got a ten road traverser albeit that two roads are dedicated to the branch.

 

You score over me though because some of your roads are long enough for two trains. I could do that but it would mean only running DMUs.

 

I could potentially save another road because I have removable coal loads. However, my problem is that there were loaded coal trains in both directions over the line between Bletchley & Oxford and from the one aged timetable that I have seen an extract of, they seemed to run almost as often as the passenger trains.

Yes Ray, loaded coals both ways would make life easier, and so would removable loads, but I'm hoping to get about 35 / 36 wagon coals and adding and removing coals would be a pain.

 

Your traverser is a far better idea but the double trains to a road would just be a 2 or 3 car DMU, Plus and 3 coach Loco hauled local.

 

Bodge

[67A]

Thanks

 

I thought I remembered you saying you were hoping for about ten roads in the fiddle yard.

 

You'll know that I've got a ten road traverser albeit that two roads are dedicated to the branch.

 

You score over me though because some of your roads are long enough for two trains. I could do that but it would mean only running DMUs.

 

I could potentially save another road because I have removable coal loads. However, my problem is that there were loaded coal trains in both directions over the line between Bletchley & Oxford and from the one aged timetable that I have seen an extract of, they seemed to run almost as often as the passenger trains.

Hi Ray,

 

Just jumping in on your traverser comment, would you mind telling me what type of runners you have used? My friend only asked me tonight about making one but all these drawer runners seem to have 'resting' areas at the end of the run whereby the drawer drops about 3mm which would be useless for a traverser, any help would be appreciated, thanks.

[67A]

Hi Andy,

 

I pondered about a traverser but chickened out due to the width 3ft and the length 10ft, that's 30 sq.ft sliding about and dangling over the edge when fully extended. Also will you have room in the shed for this?

[Ray H]

Hi Ray,

 

Just jumping in on your traverser comment, would you mind telling me what type of runners you have used? My friend only asked me tonight about making one but all these drawer runners seem to have 'resting' areas at the end of the run whereby the drawer drops about 3mm which would be useless for a traverser, any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Try these. You can get them in B&Q but Buller's are a lot, lot cheaper (no connection, satisfied customer, and all that)

 

I tend to mount them horizontal not vertical. The front does tend to droop a little but not too alarmingly.

 

Here's a picture of mine almost fully loaded and in the closed position. The baseboard is effectively turned upside down - so the top becomes the bottom - to hold everything square. I screw one side of the runner to the underside of the traverser table - which ultimately also slides on the edge of the vertical baseboard supports - and screw the other part of the runner to a piece of timber that is the right thickness to rest on the floor of the baseboard, the timber being screwed to the floor from underneath.

 

Hold the front page, pictures of the way I actually did it (not the way I thought I did it) will follow in a few minutes. Sorry.

 

Here it is before I bought too much rolling stock - only joking. This is it after I had built it and before I put all the stock I owned back on the layout, having taken it off to build the traverser!

 

 

Here I've opened it to show the drawer runners in situ and screwed to the vertical baseboard transverse strengtheners. The gibberish I spouted above is how we plan to build the traversers at the club where the baseboards aren't so deep. The underside of the pictured traverser table has two transverse pieces of 44mm sq. softwood screwed to it and the drawer runners are screwed to the sides of that. You can see the base that helps to keep everything square.

 

 

And finally and possibly not for the feint hearted, here it is in the fully open position with no support other than the drawer slides to the right. Any tilt downwards at the front edge is barely discernible despite the table having only 1½ tracks that are empty. Front and back edges of the table have a piece of aluminium angle screwed - more easily seen in the first of these three pictures. The one on the front edge doubles as something to pull & push the traverser back and forth with as well as a barrier to stop stock falling over the edge. The bulldog clips that can be seen hold my freight stock cards - the future and use of which is still being contemplated.

 

The traverser table also rests/rubs on the top edges of the vertical plywood cross members so is supported when closed or partly closed.

 

 

Hope that helps, sorry for any earlier confusion and apologies for muscling in on Andy's pitch again.

Edited September 10, 2014 by Ray H

[Andrew P]

Hi Andy,

 

I pondered about a traverser but chickened out due to the width 3ft and the length 10ft, that's 30 sq.ft sliding about and dangling over the edge when fully extended. Also will you have room in the shed for this?

Mike, I wont be going for a traverser, I will be having Peco point and trackwork forming a normal set of Storage Sidings.

 

Bodge.

[Andrew P]

Hi Ray, thanks for amendment, very clever stuff.

 

Bodge.

[lmsforever]

Hope the shed arrives okay but hope you plenty of room all round it ,I thought I had lots of room until I started painting it ,I will have to lose five stone in weight to get behind the blooming thing and finish the final corner.SWMBO says it serves me right for eating to many pies and thinks it all rather funny I dont