RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted October 21, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 21, 2016 Well done that man, Ian LMS. That's a fantastic build and finish. Any chance you could expand on your finishing methods please. Great work. Best I'm a simple man with simple techniques but will try: Slaters Plasticard - Grey Plastic Primer (Wilko's), Airbrush Railmatch GWR Light Stone Enamel, coat of Colron spirit based woodstain (Georgian Med Oak), using a brush, lightly apply light brown & dark brown Wilko's pastels (£4 for 12 colours), then using a cotton bud apply small amounts of black pastel dust and or Humbrol Smoke weathering powder. Roof - light dusting of white and smoke humbrol weathering powder mixed to provide a grey shade (leave white chunks to add light areas) Pavement - White/Brown humbrol weathering powders mixed and applied with brush, fingers etc Windows - painted using Pheonix LMS Buildings Cream via airbrush Doors - painted using Railmatch LMS Crimson Lake via airbrush. More pics on my layout thread "Jencaster" Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Thanks Ian, I've filed that away in my scenic ref file for later use. Just need a bottle of your "application skill" and I might be able to make a go of it. Thanks again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted October 25, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 25, 2016 Thanks Ian, I've filed that away in my scenic ref file for later use. Just need a bottle of your "application skill" and I might be able to make a go of it. Thanks again. Thank you - trial and error, with lots and lots of errors!!! I find I over-did the weathering especially on my engine shed. I now go very very lightly and add small amounts at a time until I think it looks right. Applying it in a controlled way produces much better results. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Introducing B 70-21 O gauge Early 20th century country Railway Station type 1 LCC bundle early 20th century country railway station. Building size 392mm x 108mm with gabled roof. Assembly and some trimming of parts required. http://www.lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2070-21&title=B%2070-21 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted March 14, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 14, 2017 Having bought three LCUT kits a while ago I finally started construction yesterday on the small engine shed and I have to say they are wonderful. The only issue I have is one of the end doors is missing so I will fire off an email today. It is lovely to have kits that have been well thought out and available at what I consider a very good price. Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 Having bought three LCUT kits a while ago I finally started construction yesterday on the small engine shed and I have to say they are wonderful. The only issue I have is one of the end doors is missing so I will fire off an email today. It is lovely to have kits that have been well thought out and available at what I consider a very good price. Roy Dear Roy, I am glad to hear you like the kit! And apologies about the part, I have already replied to your email. Best regards Jakub Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 Introducing windows, doors, and valence kits in 7mm scale Popular types of windows, doors, and valence are now available in 7mm scale! There will be more to come in future. http://www.lcut.co.uk/index.php?page=pages/hub&title=Misc%20Kits&gauge=O 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted March 15, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 15, 2017 Dear Roy, I am glad to hear you like the kit! And apologies about the part, I have already replied to your email. Best regards Jakub Indeed you did Jakub and the replacement door arrived today - top rate service. Very many thanks, Roy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Introducing footbridgesThe footbridge line is starting with the LMS style footbridge in 4mm scale. More flavours of footbridges will be introduces in coming months and they will be coming to 7mm scale as well. http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2000-30&title=B%2000-30 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davefromacrossthepond Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 I have to say that footbridge is simply stunning! Can't wait to see a GWR or Southern in 7mm! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 I have to say that footbridge is simply stunning! Can't wait to see a GWR or Southern in 7mm! Thank you! We are working on a GWR version now. It will be based on the Bridgnorth footbridge. After we have that in OO we will start resealing both of them to O gauge. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 Introducing GWR footbridge in OO gauge We would like to introduce a new addition to the line of footbridges. Work also has started on both the LMS and GWR footbridge in O gauge and they will be available in coming months. http://www.lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2000-31&title=B%2000-31 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve45 Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Can anyone recommend the best gluing method for 4mm range of kits? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Can anyone recommend the best gluing method for 4mm range of kits? I used Anita's Tacky Glue on the platform canopy kits I built. It seemed to work pretty well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve45 Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 Great, I'll give it a try, Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 Introducing GWR footbridge in O gauge The GWR footbridge is now available in 7mm scale. Thanks to the feedback and ideas we have had from the GCR model event we would also like to announce that we will be working on an Eastern LNER style footbridge soon. http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2070-22&title=B%2070-22 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 As an addition to the post about GWR footbridge in OO gauge we developed inserts to increase the span of the footbridge: http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2000-31E2&title=B%2000-31E2 And http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2000-31E3&title=B%2000-31E3 Introducing GWR footbridge in OO gauge We would like to introduce a new addition to the line of footbridges. Work also has started on both the LMS and GWR footbridge in O gauge and they will be available in coming months. http://www.lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2000-31&title=B%2000-31 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Introducing LCUT creative building materials Due to popular demand we are launching a series of building materials made with the same high quality fiberboards we use for our models. Starting with roof tile strips and two flavours of brickwork sheets. Available in OO and O gauge. More building materials to come. OO Gauge: http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?page=pages/hub&title=Building%20Materials&gauge=OO O Gauge: http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?page=pages/hub&title=Building%20Materials&gauge=O 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 The builders sheets look very nice and make modifications so much more easy to achieve, an order in next week! Posters were asking about the glue used, and I have found after several kits the best way for me is to use PVA and superglue, one side of he joint is coated with PVA and the other superglue. they react together and the superglues grabs hard and appears to accelerate the PVA setting as well, The trick come from aeromodellers were strong repair joints are required in a few minutes. The PVA acts as a filler in effect, and the combination is stronger than each glue on it's own. Also I find water based paints react with the laser card in fine details like the glazing bars, causing expansion, and distortions, that do clear up as it dries, but to stop it happening at all, I now paint the delicate parts with diluted Rustins Cellulose Lacquer, that makes it impossible for the water based paint to soak in. The surface can still take any type of paint, but not stains. Stains seem to distort the card like water does, but again it dries all right and goes back tight. if stain is used , you can then lacquer it before other painting. Stephen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 The small engine shed, in general colour washes, not the final detail painting! A very neat kit indeed, fitted to a plasticard base with a section of track inside, boarded over etc. The walls rst on raided edges on the plastic to locate the shed exactly. I left the windows supported by the rims, setting them back a bit, as it seems you can set them into the cut out flush should you want. The bars did sag on the frames after the green paint was added, but they went back tight on drying out. I am now lacquering them first to proof the laser card. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCUT_creative Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 The builders sheets look very nice and make modifications so much more easy to achieve, an order in next week! Posters were asking about the glue used, and I have found after several kits the best way for me is to use PVA and superglue, one side of he joint is coated with PVA and the other superglue. they react together and the superglues grabs hard and appears to accelerate the PVA setting as well, The trick come from aeromodellers were strong repair joints are required in a few minutes. The PVA acts as a filler in effect, and the combination is stronger than each glue on it's own. Also I find water based paints react with the laser card in fine details like the glazing bars, causing expansion, and distortions, that do clear up as it dries, but to stop it happening at all, I now paint the delicate parts with diluted Rustins Cellulose Lacquer, that makes it impossible for the water based paint to soak in. The surface can still take any type of paint, but not stains. Stains seem to distort the card like water does, but again it dries all right and goes back tight. if stain is used , you can then lacquer it before other painting. Stephen. Thank you very much for the tips! I am now starting to include more general information in the manual on what types of glue and paints to use with our product. Thank you for the tip with superglue. I will test it out myself at some point! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grampus Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 (edited) Looking forward to the arrival of the roof tiling strips (ordered this afternoon) and some other bits various for a small project I am fiddling about with. I am also loving the LSWR/SR platform mounted signal box kit: what a fantastic little model... Beautifully thought out and a real pleasure to build. Even the bits I thought might prove tricky have been entirely painless; I just don't build very quickly, though I get there in the end. I have also been amazed at just how sturdy the structure, even in this partially completed state, is. I'm a bit torn now: cream and green (which is what it was purchased to be) or white with black trim and rather dirtier...hmmm..... A real winner: more quirky Southern Region stuff, ,please. Best wishes, Paul Edited July 21, 2017 by Grampus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 Introducing GWR footbridge in O gauge The GWR footbridge is now available in 7mm scale. Thanks to the feedback and ideas we have had from the GCR model event we would also like to announce that we will be working on an Eastern LNER style footbridge soon. http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2070-22&title=B%2070-22 Hi, The footbridge looks great, is it actually based on a real one ? All the best, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grampus Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Looking forward to the arrival of the roof tiling strips (ordered this afternoon) and some other bits various for a small project I am fiddling about with. I am also loving the LSWR/SR platform mounted signal box kit: what a fantastic little model... 20170628_215846.jpg Beautifully thought out and a real pleasure to build. Even the bits I thought might prove tricky have been entirely painless; I just don't build very quickly, though I get there in the end. I have also been amazed at just how sturdy the structure, even in this partially completed state, is. I'm a bit torn now: cream and green (which is what it was purchased to be) or white with black trim and rather dirtier...hmmm..... A real winner: more quirky Southern Region stuff, ,please. Best wishes, Paul Morning all, My - beautifully packaged - parcel of bits arrived this morning safely, with everything in tact. The roofing slates are seriously impressive: they will save a lot of pain with paper and scissors. Fabulous service - thanks very much indeed! Onwards and upwards, Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 The weighbridge hut being convert to a Crab, Fresh Fish and smoked Fish sales hut, so a lot to add to the front window for a fish display on marble slabs. added to a wood and plastic base unit. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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