Guest Isambarduk Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 "I'd like to know what people like to use for lining - I've never done any before. " At G0G shows, I help out on the HMRS stand and I sell Pressfix lining transfers only very reluctantly because I always encourage people to do it properly - with a pen! Of course, you need to practice, practice and practice some more on things that don't matter (I have been asked why some of my storage boxes are lined out). There are places that are very difficult, or impossible, to reach with a pen but it's easy to make your own transfers by lining on to clear waterslide decal sheets that are intended for use with a laser printer; I always do boiler bands this way. With a combination of pen on the model and pen on to decal sheet, it is easy to achieve consistent line colours and line thickness, something that does not always result from using commercial lining transfers. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 25, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 25, 2015 Alan Brackenborough advised me to make a rest to hold your hand steady and do the straight lines first using a rule then do the curved bits. The bow pen he shapes using a stone and then just takes the edges off so as not to scratch the model. I think he said have the paint about the constituency of milk. The sensible thing is to practice on scraps first. Buy a cheap plastic body paint then line paint and then line etc. If you practice on a 00 plastic body then try on some brass scrap before trying on the models. Mind you Alan had a small notice behind the platform on his station which read "Drivers are requested not to blow off while in the station" I asked if he printed it off. No it was easier to do it by hand was his response. Martin Brent recommended adding a touch of the bass body colour to the varnish which would tone down the lining a little without affecting the main colour. Personally I have bought one of the RL Moore lining pens but have yet to try it. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I like the hat,and the hard wear did you get to fire it. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 25, 2015 But of a frustrating evening. I decided to remake the undercab pipework using brass and other odds and sods. I got reasonably far on one side, this far in fact: And then I looked at the photos of the real 30200... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 25, 2015 Here's a few extracts of the real 30200: Not the best shots to see what's going on but quite clearly there's no pipe loops behind the steps under the bunker and none of the pipework runs in front of the steps. Bottom. I started making what I thought I saw in the photos and got this far: Lots of guesswork but then I found a photo of a different loco but it appears to broadly match what I think happens. It's not quite what I've fabricated and I think I'm going to have another go at it...but not now...in a week time... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 25, 2015 I like the hat,and the hard wear did you get to fire it. Mike You had me wondering there Mike and then Mrs Spams mentioned she'd posted a photo of me wearing a civil war hat and musket on Facebook. I can't keep up sometimes! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 From a position of no knowledge whatsoever of this class of loco, it looks to me as if the injector is vertical. There will be a water pipe from the tank,, a steam feed from the fountain, a feed pipe to the boiler and an overflow. It may be that the water pipe has a valve/cock on it which is built into the injector. Nice pix here - http://www.saylor.org/site/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Injector.pdf. They all seem pretty similar, it's just the orientation & pipe runs that vary. HTH Simon You had me wondering there Mike and then Mrs Spams mentioned she'd posted a photo of me wearing a civil war hat and musket on Facebook. I can't keep up sometimes! Where do you "wear" a musket? Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted May 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 25, 2015 Thanks Simon, useful link. Now I know what the parts are for I know what to search for. Basically it looks like I need to make up something like Peter has done on his Ivatt tank build: That helps a lot, particularly as it's a frame rather than solid step. I think the issue with the kit is that Jim (and me too) has been caught out by assuming the pipework is the same on the preserved IoW O2 and a mainland one. Once again I've been caught out by not referring to photos before starting...I should have learned by now. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 With injectors if there is a control rod to the cab like the one on my Ivatt that will tell you the water inlet. The one closest to it will be the steam inlet from the cab, the two at the other end will be outlet which is probably the straightest one, and the other will be the overflow. Looking above I would say the water inlet is the one you have made in brass, the outlet is the one in whitemetal joining the one you made the over flow is the short one shown in the unmodified one I would say the inlet is either in the end by the water or on the opposite side. Once you know which is which it is easier to follow the photo as you know water to tank or tender, steam inlet normally off to in between the frames to the cab. BR STD are different. Outlet generally to a clack valve which normally takes it up to the footplate, then along underneath to surface through the footplate near to the clack. Looking at my Ivatt you can follow where they head off to except the in let which is out of site and goes through a hole in the frames behind the injector. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted May 26, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 26, 2015 (edited) Chris depending on what controls you have, or haven't, got on the footplate you need to sort out from them what goes where. I agree with Simon that the injector appears to be vertical therefore I suspect that the water valve handle will be directly above it simply working the valve via a vertical rod. The steam valve will probably be will up on the backhead somewhere off the steam fountain with the pipe feeding down to the injector. The way the system works might be helpful to know. The injector takes water from the tank controlled through a valve in the injector body - the water is either on or off but can be controlled 'in between' to some extent by the valve. The steam supply from the boiler to the injector will cause it to, in effect draw the water through the injector body and pass it under pressure into the boiler via the clack valve. the operating qsequence is simple - turn on teh water suplly then the steam supply and watch teh overflow to make sure the injector 'picks up'. Turning it off is simple a reverse of the turning on sequence - steam off first, then water. So going in to the injector there is a water pipe from the tank and a steam pipe from the cab, coming out there is a water/steam pipe to the clack valve and the overflow. Edited May 26, 2015 by The Stationmaster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 The injector takes water from the boiler ... Interesting concept but try 'takes water from the (tender) tank(s)' :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted May 26, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 26, 2015 The injector takes water from the boiler ... Interesting concept but try 'takes water from the (tender) tank(s)' :-) Thats recycling for you... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IWCR Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 Hello The pipework and injector provided in the kit above looks similar to that on the preserved O2. This appears on IOW O2s during there later life and presumably some mainland ones at this time. However earlier photos (pre war) show a different injector and pipework with the injector mounted horizontally tucked right up under the running plate, these match build drawings. The water valve was part of the injector, later fit had a seperate valve remaining in this location. The water valve is operated by a vertical rod connected to a short lever just inboard of the cab opening The photo of 30200 above shows a further variation with a vertically mounted injector with the water valve bolted direct to it top right. The steam pipe would be opposite this behind the steps (comes from under the cab floor) The pipe bottom right is the delivery pipe to the clack valves on the boiler. Opposite this behind the steps would be the overflow pipe. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thanks all for the advice and assistance with the injectors. After a two week break doing other stuff I played with trying to modify the provided bits and pipes and then abandoned the idea. Last week I dropped into the model shop in Sutton Coldfield market and picked up a variety of brass and copper tube. This afternoon I used these to fashion an approximation of the injectors. Here's a few photos of them being made up - both were made on the same length of brass rod... Then I forgot to take any photos until they were fitted (Ooops): I think they will do. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 Well that's it for the solder work on the body...time for a clean: 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 I think they will do as well,looking great. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 So then outside for an initial waft with some Halfords grey primer. The purpose is to show up any flaws... A couple of bits to have a look at again, then some more primer before we're on with the black. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted June 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2015 Luverly jubbley young man and great to see you back posting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Injectors look great - very satisfying to have done that, I imagine! I did an exhaust steam injector for my 28, is similar style, wire, pipe, nuts, solder and I was as happy as a dog with multiple appendages. Best Simon I take it that the pannier will be on the bench again soon...? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thanks folks - great to get to the primer milestone. Yes, making stuff from odds and sods is very rewarding, and easier now I'm building up a stock of useful raw materials. There's still lots left to do, the small matter of getting the thing moving under its own power. Once this loco is done I'm going to give kit building a break for a while and concentrate on moving the layout forwards. The 1366 hasn't been forgotten and has had small bits of work done on it but it's still in the naughty corner ;-p 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Looking really good, I must get started on my N10 (and others) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Is it plain black? I stuck to plain colours for the first few builds. It looks good in primer and the injectors are an improvement. I do not know about you but I get this strange feeling when I getting to the painting stage sort of disbelief . I find you keep thing there is loads to do then you look in the box look at the pictures trying to find something else to add. Then that moment dawns inside your head and you realise it is complete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 7, 2015 Yes, after the injectors were on, the only thing I could find that was missing was the top lamp iron on the bunker. Couldn't find anything else in the destructions or photos to add. So then, as you say, the disbelief that I'd done with the body. Result. Was determined to get the paint on today, the build is dragging on a bit. Sadly the loco isn't plain black and will need some lining. I may yet subcontract... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Sadly the loco isn't plain black and will need some lining. I may yet subcontract... What a lovely build, very detailed too. I like Jim's kits, I have two of his Jinties (don't ask how!!!), and I built one that went together so easy for my first etched kit. As for lining, I once saw a lining pen demonstration by a Mr Moore I believe, it seemed to work rather well and quite easy to use by all accounts, although I believe it to be somewhat dearer than a bow pen. I think Phoenix sell them as well Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted June 7, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 7, 2015 An excellent result Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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