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Less work being done on Highwind as it gets nearer to completion and i'm doing more work on my layout. the guard irons have been made and fitted to Highwind but i havent photographed it yet.

 

Another distraction was started yesterday in the shape of an 1853 midland wagon based on a drawing in the Essery wagon book, one of the wagons from Airnimal was a blank chassis with planking on, which for this was cut down in length and width to fit

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the wagon is now together with ironwork, sat on wheels and buffer beam holes drilled. It felt like ages carefully cutting out the side framework, then cutting the strips for the ironwork and then adding the bolt heads

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Edited by sir douglas
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having another go at the GN horsebox. The body shell is now together, the ends are just a single thicker layer scribed while the sides have a thin cut out over lay, the internal bracing were cut from rejected sides

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Back to Highwind, while wondering how to do the springs it came to me that i could modify a set of slaters wagon springs that i have. the bottom of the springs have a curve filed out to fit on the wheel arch. Because of unintended space constraints the springs have had to go on top of the arches instead of behind them. Also in this photo are the guard irons filed to meet the curves in the photo

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The chosen crew, the bowler hatted old chap is already painted from coming out a Halfmoon Colliery loco and will only need some scratches patching up, the other member is another a mash up of parts

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all the springs on with the arms on the ends which are just strips of black styrene. The guard irons and regulator lever have now got a base coat of grey before doing the black

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springs, guard irons and reg lever now in black. some sort of valve that shows on the smokebox side was added with a handrail knob and bit of brass wire soldered into it

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On the back are the cleaning tools on the hooks, one of them is made of brass bits and the other a whitemetal casting from the S&D bits bought a while back. On the right hand side is the leversing lever reach rod in grey base coat, this is 2 bits of brass soldered together, superglued to the running plate and soldered to the front of the bunker, this meant scraping back some paint which has been covered over with grey and will be again be painted over with the gloss black. Ive found a source for the safety valve springs and whistle which i will order sometime soon. the bunkers have been half filled with bits of lead with drops of super glue into them

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not much left now;

- crew

- safety valve springs

- whistle

- bunker coal

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all i got yesterday at Pontefract show was a set of buffers and wheels, the buffers went on the 1853 wagon last night and the wheels on the tank wagon chassis (another half-built from Airnimal)

 

The1853 with buffers, hooks and a first coat of grey

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About a week ago i decided to start on the tank wagon by making the barrel, this is a piece of vacuum cleaner pipe with the end caps each made of 2 layers of 2mm styrene turned on the dremel with a file

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Lastnight, the new wheels were fitted, the sole bar was layered up to have a slot in it for the W irons maybe etched, i cut these out for the whitemetal axle boxes to sit in, the ends of the WM had to be cut back to sit in the recess and the bearings had to be set in flush for the wheels to fit between them. Just to be sure of the clearances, the bearing holes were countersunk a little bit to sit better with the tapered shoulder on the axle

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the last 2 of the wagons left from Airnimal were a pair of 20ft 1 plank dropside flatbeds, ive cut them down to 15ft to become bolster twins, the catches on the corners were cut off as the sides will now be fixed. Even though the chassis underneath was modeled properly and looks very nice, i took some of it out as unnecessary and would just get in the way later with the wheels and hook springs. Chassis offcuts were reused to strengthen the join

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Line up of all the wagons in their current condition. the tank wagon has the additions of a thin sheet of styrene around the middle of the barrel, bolt heads all round and the diagonal bracing rods while the twins have the pivot mountings and the buffer holes facing each other have been filled in

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Just a thought Sir Douglas on your new single plank wagons. The wagons as originally built had the head stocks shaped to act as bump stops for the drop side doors, seeing as the sides are fixed you could perhaps get away with squaring up the ends of the head stocks.

 

Regards John Bruce.

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Sir Douglas, I am pleased you have been able to use the wagon bits I gave you. Turning the long low wagons in to bolster wagons is  up there in true Colonel Stephens fashion. I can't wait to see the tank wagon finished.

Mike

 

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i wrote an article for the gazette back in october and the editor said that it would be going into the february issue, ive got mine and it isnt there, ive emailed him to see whats going on, i bet it got kicked over to the next issue (may?) because of the kettering guide

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On 1/29/2019 at 2:47 AM, sir douglas said:

the last 2 of the wagons left from Airnimal were a pair of 20ft 1 plank dropside flatbeds, ive cut them down to 15ft to become bolster twins, the catches on the corners were cut off as the sides will now be fixed. Even though the chassis underneath was modeled properly and looks very nice, i took some of it out as unnecessary and would just get in the way later with the wheels and hook springs. Chassis offcuts were reused to strengthen the join

post-9948-0-81260100-1548689872_thumb.jpg

post-9948-0-29591500-1548689892_thumb.jpg

 

Line up of all the wagons in their current condition. the tank wagon has the additions of a thin sheet of styrene around the middle of the barrel, bolt heads all round and the diagonal bracing rods while the twins have the pivot mountings and the buffer holes facing each other have been filled in

post-9948-0-29586000-1548689914_thumb.jpg

 

If you want to hide the cut-and-shut, you could always add a little bit of strapping using some styrene strip. That is some very creative use of existing components!

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the reply from the editor is that i was right about several pages being taken up by the Kettering guide but he also said that there were more pages of adverts than normal and that he doesnt know how many pages will be available until about 3 days before publishing so it didnt make it in but has also said that it will most likely get into the May issue.

 

With Highwind now finished i would normally have done a 3/4 view in the goods yard but its currently full of wagons while i work on the set of draws, this is getting closer to finishing now that all the woodwork is done, its just had a coat of stain

 

On 28/01/2019 at 18:39, Turin 60 said:

Just a thought Sir Douglas on your new single plank wagons. The wagons as originally built had the head stocks shaped to act as bump stops for the drop side doors, seeing as the sides are fixed you could perhaps get away with squaring up the ends of the head stocks.

 

Regards John Bruce.

 

hadnt thought of it but i quite like the look of it as an aesthetic feature

 

On 03/02/2019 at 13:04, hartleymartin said:

 

If you want to hide the cut-and-shut, you could always add a little bit of strapping using some styrene strip. That is some very creative use of existing components!

 

i was already going to this on the planking but will put filler the gap in the chassis

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Continuing with the bolsters, the timbers now have stanchions of 1.5mm steel rod and shackle hoops bent up from brass wire. the pivots are 10BA bolts with the heads countersunk in and covered over with milliput, the cut & shut gaps have been filled and painted as has the filled buffer holes. What is currently taking the longest to do are all the boltheads which i still havent done all of them on the body, and cant do the solebar bolts until after the axeboxe are in whjich i dont have yet nor the wheels. i do still have some of the axleboxes from airnimal un used but no matching pair of sets which i can use on these

wagon_bolster_(4).JPG

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Finishing off the 1853, the inside had 2 coats of tamiya xf-52 flat earth (i'm thinking of putting a little tinfoil hat on that one for a laugh) but now has a coat of railmatch sleeper grime over the top. The brake gear  is made up of brass strip and wooden shoes. i tried copying the curved brake hangers. A base coat of grey and then of matt black, the body was dry brushed with the sleeper grime and some random new planks painted in with XF-60 dark yellow. although i have heavily weathered it i cant otherwise justify in my head that on my layout a 100 year old wagon would still be at work let alone even still exist but rule 1 as always

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the set of draws is nearly done, the bottom drawer still needs varnishing inside, but the carcass and the other 2 drawers are done after yesterday's coat of varnish dried, once the bottom drawer is done i can rub on the bees wax on the sides and on the runners.  the carcass, drawer faces and top are 6mm ply with mitre joins to hide the ends, finished with a wilko stain and 3 coats of yacht varnish, the top surface is recessed in for folding crates to slot in and the same with the feet on the bottom, the photo shows it sat slotted into crates top and bottom

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  • 2 weeks later...

Moving back over to the Hudswell clarke diesel (Atlas conversion) with a start being made on the body. but also some work on the chassis.

 

The coupling rods were filed down and fitted properly with the holes drilled out for the brass bushed. The length of the bushes were filed down to a little over the thickness of the rods, once the washers and nuts were on, a coat of grey was applied and then red

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The body was started with the bonnet, 4 profile formers joined by spacers

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The radiator grill was next as the curve around the top needed to be formed before the sides and top could be wrapped around

a base piece cut to the bonnet profile with 2 'D' profile pieces stuck on to give the front curve of the bonnet, the bottom profile is the bottom of the grill to leave a gap underneath for the transmission housing. the top profile is curve to sit in the bonnet profile, this was the tricky bit to work out as the bonnet front has curves on 2 axis

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the bonnet front was stuck onto the former with excess around to cut back, the grill was cut out and a piece of perforated brass superglued into the back, which is why the base piece had a hole in it, the front bonnet former needed to be black to not show through the grill

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After a second coat of black, the grill was stuck onto the bonnet assembly ans the excess cut back to profile

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and then the wrap around applied

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Edited by sir douglas
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cab front & back with spectacles cut out. a feature of hudswell's on the back are the large spectacles close together, though i think ive got them a bit small and a bit far apart

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The bonnet was made 3mm longer which the cab front is cut out to sit around, my thinking is that if the bonnet butts up against the cab front it wouldnt give much surface to glue to and i cant have any strengthening inside because of the motor. this give extra strength later when cutting out the inside of the bonnet to fit the motor and wires. back to the cab, the front & back glued down with inner sides to give a straight box with window holes smaller than on the outer sides to represent a window frame, what i find odd about Hudswell diesels are the blank doors without a window but it is a stable door type so the top half can opened separately to the bottom. the inner side also acts as the door. On the bonnet, strips have been added across the side which i assume is the join between the side and top panels, also on are the side doors and the transmission housing

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I wasnt sure about the exact final length necessary for the cab wrap around so one side was stuck on and left to dry before trail fitting by bending it round, a little excess was cut off and then the door and window on that side could be cut out.  

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Hinges have been added to the side doors. the body now fits the chassis without internal obstructions but there is a slight high point on the chassis block stopping it from sitting properly

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The high point is shown marked by X's. the excess length of the wires have been cut back. in the process of taking the pick up out and putting it back in, the slotted mounting came off so thats stuck back on which is the reason for the clamp. The chassis is currently playing up, after the rods went back on it wouldn't run, it was found that one of the holes was drilled out for the bush off centre. With that elongated, the chassis should have run but theres been problem with shorting, gears and quartering all caused by knocking wheels out if place while handling. Now theres a problem with the motor which i havent looked into yet but when the motion snags, the motor jolts and pushes the end cap out a bit

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9 hours ago, sir douglas said:

cab front & back with spectacles cut out. a feature of hudswell's on the back are the large spectacles close together, though i think ive got them a bit small and a bit far apart

1114526760_artoria(20).JPG.6a60bfe002caf19199d05d995645b6e0.JPG

 

The bonnet was made 3mm longer which the cab front is cut out to sit around, my thinking is that if the bonnet butts up against the cab front it wouldnt give much surface to glue to and i cant have any strengthening inside because of the motor. this give extra strength later when cutting out the inside of the bonnet to fit the motor and wires. back to the cab, the front & back glued down with inner sides to give a straight box with window holes smaller than on the outer sides to represent a window frame, what i find odd about Hudswell diesels are the blank doors without a window but it is a stable door type so the top half can opened separately to the bottom. the inner side also acts as the door. On the bonnet, strips have been added across the side which i assume is the join between the side and top panels, also on are the side doors and the transmission housing

1035689812_artoria(29).JPG.4f12053d3f5c3a4c70abba906f201585.JPG

 

I wasnt sure about the exact final length necessary for the cab wrap around so one side was stuck on and left to dry before trail fitting by bending it round, a little excess was cut off and then the door and window on that side could be cut out.  

689314423_artoria(30).JPG.3e55a9bb3c6748d920d88465c3724aeb.JPG

878028690_artoria(31).JPG.44c995ef567e0b037e0fffcc40a55d1a.JPG

 

Hinges have been added to the side doors. the body now fits the chassis without internal obstructions but there is a slight high point on the chassis block stopping it from sitting properly

800380197_artoria(34).JPG.bfef2ad73703f5cf0a455837f23951be.JPG

 

The high point is shown marked by X's. the excess length of the wires have been cut back. in the process of taking the pick up out and putting it back in, the slotted mounting came off so thats stuck back on which is the reason for the clamp. The chassis is currently playing up, after the rods went back on it wouldn't run, it was found that one of the holes was drilled out for the bush off centre. With that elongated, the chassis should have run but theres been problem with shorting, gears and quartering all caused by knocking wheels out if place while handling. Now theres a problem with the motor which i havent looked into yet but when the motion snags, the motor jolts and pushes the end cap out a bit

1566051120_artoria(33).JPG.e4129fb85939c28a47f41abc2061c6be.JPG

The problem with the motor could be connected with the quartering Sam.  When it jams the worm gets pushed back by the gear and the shaft then goes with it and pushes the armature up.  I wouldn't worry about that and concentrate on sorting the quartering.   If you take the rods off and run it as a 2-2-0 then I would suspect that there wouldn't be a problem.

 

Jamie

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sorted the quartering and without the motor in, it rolls very freely. the only way to fix it was to make a jig that i could line them up against. A block of wood, 2 pieces of mdf, axle slots and some pencil lines on both sides

 

artoria_(35)_quartering_jig.JPG

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