sir douglas Posted June 2, 2019 Author Share Posted June 2, 2019 correction Slaters 7842 L/C 3'6" not 4'6" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 2, 2019 Author Share Posted June 2, 2019 I've figured out why the old axles aren't quartered, 7842 are carriage wheels and i was thinking that they were the 7854 driving wheels, so by chance i got the right size and didn't get the driving wheels which are a foot too big. What i got yesterday, the wheels in question on the left, the old axles to the left of that and new on the right. 1 Assembled wheelset. the axles taper out slightly to the shoulder (see drawing below) so i reamed out the wheel centres slightly, to not ream would have meant extreme force to fit and have the chance of damaging it. ii reamed them so a push fit went as far as the wheel back being 1mm from the shoulder and then sat it on top of the vice and gently hammered it home with a piece of wood inbetween the hammer and axle. the act of reaming also gave the benefit of tapering the wheel hole to better fit the tapered axle. I'm now making a start on the chassis, i've got a motor just the right size, buffers and plunger pickups which i might use. the chassis was going to be a main inner chassis with a cosmetic outer chassis hanging from the body but with the set up of the wheels its going to be better with a proper outer frame and the plunger pickups will have to be fitted to an extra framework inside. i haven't yet found any wheels the right size for the leading set but thats not important for now. quick drawing for the axle with the taper exaggerated so its easier to see i was about upload the test track video but youtube is playing up. 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted June 2, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 2, 2019 (edited) It’s best to have a close fitting metal tube which is fully in contact with the wheel centre when bashing them down a taper. You’re correct in thinking the spokes aren’t strong enough (how do I know? well.....) Edited June 3, 2019 by Northroader Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 the video, ive got a second video of it pulling the 3 Gresley carriages seen in the loop but im not going to upload it as theres a chap asleep in the right of shot which i feel would be rude to share with the internet 13 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 The passing of the two locos right at the end looks a little hair-raising, especially if you were the crew of the 0-4-0. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 5, 2019 Author Share Posted June 5, 2019 the chassis next, main frames are cut from 0.25mm nickel with slots cut in for the 1/8th bearings to sit in, i'm not doing any compensation just making it able to drop the wheelsets, which will be held in place by a piece of wire held in 2 bits of tube as done by Ruston. cosmetic hornguides were soldered on to match the prototype which were bolted to the frame and not a single cut sheet. this has a larger opening to leave a gap for the bearing flange to sit in. brass angle was soldered across the inside of the frames for strength and to keep them straight. a trial fit of the wheel found that the cranks were rubbing on the hornguides as they are thicker than the bearing flanges, washers have been included between these. the bearings have been modified with a second flange made from reamed washers to give a slot for the hornguides. the last wheel has been left off the axle until after the gearbox has been built and fitted. the trial fit, the front wheel hornguides haven't been made as theyre not necessary yet but will soon once ive got a coupled rolling chassis, short gaps have been filed into the angle to not foul the wheels. once i knew how far apart the frames were i could cut the stretchers and solder it all together. 40x15mm pieces of 1mm brass screwed to down to ly with marking to line everything up 9 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 coupling rods made, fitted and the chassis rolls smoothly, im now marking out too cut the front hornguides and then will do the retaining wires 5 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted June 6, 2019 Share Posted June 6, 2019 2 hours ago, sir douglas said: coupling rods made, fitted and the chassis rolls smoothly, im now marking out too cut the front hornguides and then will do the retaining wires Enjoying this one. When you solder in the keeper wires only allow the smallest amount of vertical movement. Too much, and some weird short circuits may occur as demonstrated on my colliery muck wagons at the recent Selby show. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 6, 2019 Author Share Posted June 6, 2019 the retaining wires are done and ive added the bars that goes between the hornguides and the end of the frames. i might also make up some other bits & bobs while the chassis can be sat flat on the bench. im going to be afk till monday as im going down to Uxbridge with a friend and his d-day themed layout to the battle of britain bunker museum 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 11, 2019 Author Share Posted June 11, 2019 before i get started on the gearbox for the boulton i think i should get J.Aspdin's gearbox rebuilt. it is now in pieces on the bench and the new one is drawn up to cut Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 13, 2019 Author Share Posted June 13, 2019 the gearbox for J.Aspdin is now done and fitted. the new gearbox is a fold up like the kit types, the fold lines were scored with a cutting disk on the dremel to make it easier to fold. the old mounting plate was unsoldered from the motor mounting and the fold up went on in its place, some fettling had to be done to get the gear mesh right by elongating the holes and then washers were soldered on to the outside. i was going to modify the old gearbox but it would have been a lot of hacking and soldering so a fresh start was better. and a video of the test, it runs quite smoothly at low speed but with just some jerking while changing speed. with the loco re assembled it ran on the layout but jerking and stalling but settled down after a minute to run a lot better. 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 14, 2019 Author Share Posted June 14, 2019 back to the Boulton, or as it will be "Gilgamesh". In a similar manner to that i named 3 of my locos after fictitious ships; Thunderchild, Nautilus and Highwind. I would like to have a set of ancient/mythological rulers, if i am ever able to finish the Hudswell diesel it will have the name i already have decided for it, "Artoria" as in Artoria Pendragon which is other wise known as King Arthur, another name for a future loco will be Charlemagne. Gilgamesh- the Sumerian King somewhere about 2800 to 2500 BC, the land of Sumer is now Southern Iraq and was a great empire contemporary to egypt https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilgamesh Charlemagne- also know as Charles the Great, king of the Franks (768 - 814 AD) and emperor of Rome (800 - 813 AD) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charlemagne I went to the club Yesterday to do some more painting on Eyemouth and to use the pillar drill, while test fitting a wheelset the other day i found that teh wheel centres where a tight fit between the brass tubes so i used the drill as a lather to machine off some of the plastic part of the axle boss but not touch the brass part. while thinking about how the loco will go together it became apparent that is that after putting the motor and gearbox on the axle and hiding it inside the body, i wont be able to take the body off and cant from the front wheels out of the frames so i'm making the lower half of the boiler seperate, half of a copper tube soldered to an L of brass which bolts to the front stretcher. neither the body or motor will be trapped by each other and to drop the wheelsets just unbolt the boiler lower half, slide it forward and the motor is free to drop with the wheels. 6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 16, 2019 Author Share Posted June 16, 2019 I've now drawn the gearbox but hit a slight wall deciding how the motor will fix to gearbox, many different ideas running round my head but none of them feel right for the job Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 19, 2019 Author Share Posted June 19, 2019 The motor will be mounted in the same way as on the Hunslet. with that decided, the drawing could be finished. and cutting started All the parts cut and ready for assembly. the main frames assemble on nut & bolts with copper tube spacers, the motor mounting consisting of 3 parts; frame bracket, motor housing and end plate. as with on the Hunslet, the bracket will solder to the copper tubes with the housing soldered to the bracket, the ends of the housing slot into the end plate and fold over. one of the problem with the motor is that the gear end boss is narrower than the worm gear so it cant sit in the hole on the bracket to keep it in place but the motor also has a 1mm hole in that end, a bit of brass wire will be soldered through the bracket as a locating spigot 9 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 20, 2019 Author Share Posted June 20, 2019 good news then bad then good for a funny reason. Firstly, the gearbox is done and it works, then came to soldering the wires. one of the contact lugs broke off so i tried soldering to the brass head. very bad idea, the heat melted the surrounding plastic and the contact came out which i quickly pressed it back in. its been about 10 minutes but i still cant believe the motor worked after that. needless to say ive already ordered a replacement from ebay as i dont want to rely on a compromised motor. being tested. i put some tape on the axle to show the rotation with wires and plug soldered. replacement due in about a week. 9 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 23, 2019 Author Share Posted June 23, 2019 The motor & gearbox are in the frames and was running fine with jump leads, now pickups are fitted and wired, it still runs. Now im working on the buffer beams before i can cut the footplate and start on the body. I took a video on the club test track on Friday but ive left my camera, theres also no progress photos until Tuesday after getting my camera back tomorrow night 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 change of plan, since we're having a talk tonight i went in to do another coat of paint this morning instead and so i could get my camera as well. the video from friday The pick ups are slaters' plunger, these are fitted to a brass fold up frame which is bolted to a C section chassis stretcher, both have a rectangular hole which is big enough for the orange plug to pass through The bufferbeam is wood with a brass backing, the buffer stocks are held in by soldering to this. the hook springs pass through the wood and backing sheet and sit against the hook plate, this plate is held on with 2 brass pins soldered to the sheet. this was done to minimise the length of drawbar sticking out from the back of the bufferbeam. ive tried putting one of the bufferbeams onto the chassis but things keep moving around and cant keep them together long enough for the soder to bond so i'm going to make up a jig out of wood to the chassis and beams together 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 25, 2019 Author Share Posted June 25, 2019 The jig is just 2 blocks of wood with cut outs screwed to a plank of ply, i added some panel pins to stip the bufferbeams sliding sideways, notches had to be cut on the right hand side for the rod that goes to the bottom of the axle box. after that is done, the jig now acts as a stand to sit the loco on while i work on it. Yesterday the replacemnt motor arrived and was swapped over earlier. and the plug has been moved to the pick up end. 9 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 Starting last night a boiler support was cut, ii was going to solder it to the boiler but for some reason no matter how much i tried, the sodler wouldn't stick to the copper pipe, so instead it has been soldered to the frames. a strip was soldered on over either side for brackets that are in the drawing and photo. The front wheels came today, slaters 7136 2' 6" wagon wheels, this was mounted onto a fold up frame and bolted onto the front stretcher, the frame is narrow enough to give the wheel set some side play for curves. The bolting arrangement on the stretcher is now a pair to stop things rotating. the motor now has a hook over the top to stop it jumping up and down. this is soldered to the front of the boiler lower half so it can just slide out 5 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted June 27, 2019 Share Posted June 27, 2019 Is it that a big copper pipe, with thicker walls than an etched brass boiler, is a very good heat sink and conductor and just spreads heat along itself rather than getting hot enough in any one place to solder to? A big blowtorch might work, otherwise epoxy. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 It's coming along nicely. I like the way you have made it as an actual outside-framed loco and not simply made ain inside frame, with a cosmetic outside frame as part of the bodywork. How are you going to do all the rivets on the frames? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 28, 2019 Author Share Posted June 28, 2019 thanks dave, its outside framed because in the long run it would have been more work to make it inside framed. for the rivets i might not bother with them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 3 hours ago, sir douglas said: thanks dave, its outside framed because in the long run it would have been more work to make it inside framed. for the rivets i might not bother with them The rivets are such a feature of the frames and in this scale it would be obvious that they're missing. Some kind of overlay, perhaps? Either thin shim brass, or even paper that, when coated with varnish or whatever, will keep their shape. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted June 28, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 28, 2019 It strikes me that you’ll need to be careful with the weight distribution. The leading axle will need to deflect upwards, otherwise it will take too much weight off the drivers. Looking at that side photo of the loco, the drivers are set well back, and the bulk of the superstructure would place the centre of gravity just in front of the leading driver, so that the lead axle will deflect up against the stop, and the trailing driver lift off the rail. To counteract this, the coal bunker and under the platform at that end really need to be a solid block of metal, and the lead axle lightly sprung to keep it in contact with the track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brack Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 Archer river transfers or a cocktail stick and evo stick resin w glue, wait till it thickens slightly then dot it on with a steady hand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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