sir douglas Posted December 23, 2018 Author Share Posted December 23, 2018 styrene sheet covered over the wheel arches with the ends on the running plate, then these ends were filed down so the curve blends into the running plate. the cladding of the firebox progresses with the base layer and 2 strips that will become the brass surrounds Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted December 23, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 23, 2018 Looks great so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hando Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 (edited) hi, I am now looking at suitable prototypes to model while i wait for the Wakefield show. - Pardarn railway Hunslets http://dave-mills.yolasite.com/resources/Untitled-21%20x%20640.jpg Like the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, the Padarn Railway wasn't Standard Gauge. The Padarn was specifically 4' gauge. I started a thread in the narrow gauge forum which, at one point (on page 1); we discussed the idea of bashing a RTR Chassis to make a Padarn Railway Hunslet tank engine (here-->): http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/140473-strange-gauge-oo-gauge-track-for-narrow-gauge-locos/. (Sorry, took quote all the way from Page 1, not exactly relevant now! ) Edited December 23, 2018 by Narrowgaugebeginner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 23, 2018 Author Share Posted December 23, 2018 Like the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, the Padarn Railway wasn't Standard Gauge. The Padarn was specifically 4' gauge. I started a thread in the narrow gauge forum which, at one point (on page 1); we discussed the idea of bashing a RTR Chassis to make a Padarn Railway Hunslet tank engine (here-->): http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/140473-strange-gauge-oo-gauge-track-for-narrow-gauge-locos/. (Sorry, took quote all the way from Page 1, not exactly relevant now! ) yes i know what gauge they are and i stated that later in the thread (i think). there was once a thread last year on the same subject standard http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/123709-4-gauge-railways/?hl=padarn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 24, 2018 Author Share Posted December 24, 2018 Last night saw the making of the smokebox with the same construction method as the firebox but lead was stacked up inisde with super glue before cladding it, a key trade mark feature of a Beyer peacock is the sloped smokebox front as copied on mine. The surrounds on the firebox have been filed down. The chimey is another item from airnimal but ive lengthened it by 8mm by cutting it up at the thinnest point near the bottom and soldering in a strip of brass wound around the thread inside, the inside of the chimney was already threaded so i put in a bit of bolt with the head cut off and used it to set the 2 halves at the right distance and hold them straight in relation to each other while i soldered the patch in. The patch is covered in milliput to then file/sand/cut down flush. the wheels and rods were removed, i still need to file down the rods some more anywy but today was first cleaning the oil from the wheels with soapy water and a tooth brush, this was because of generous amount of oil on the bearings while test running and i need to add the balance weights and paint them styrene balance weights super glued in, a problem came up here because i realised that on Gardener's wheels, the crank pins are between spoke but on these terrier's they are in line so i had to make the weights longer. as its a n inside cylinder loco, the rear balances are off set for the axle cranks inside a coat pf gloss black While fitting, i made a mistake with the balance on the rear right hand wheel, i cant think of a good way to explain so heres a really rubbish quick scribble starting with top left, the wheels with the weights as i did them, the other way from the crank to each other but if you then turn them round to go on either end of the axle, the weights dont line up with each other as shown by the 3D view below that and by the end on view at the bottom, but on the right both balance weight are on the same way round, on the 3D and end on views you can see how the weights line up with each other. so that weight had to taken of and repositioned, then the wheels could go on and all the wheels got a second coat of paint and a first coat over the screw head 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 smoothing down the chimney is being done in a repetition of painting it grey to see the bumps and dips, sanding the bumps and filling the dips, sanding then back to painting, the routine was done a few times until i was happy with the finish making the saddle tank, cutting out 2 squres of 2mm styrene, drilling a hole in the middle and cutting the corners off, then this is attached to the drill to take it down with a file the require diameter. Or it would be if my drill wasnt still down at the club, but my grand dad recently gave us a dremel, which ive been using a lot recently These circles are cut in half and the corners rounded off to make the profile formers of the tank, ive used 3 formers before but this tank is longer and i feel it needs 4. 3 of the formers then have upside down "T" spacers glued on, these and the 4th are then all glued together the gaps in tank are filled up with lead and then the cladding can be wrapped around. one end was stuck down to the underside and left it just long enough to bond before wrapping round. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 the work on the Atlas has been partial for the past 2 weeks but come christmas day, the chocks are away and i can work on it legitimately. so i decided to keep quiet about it until after the day as a suprise. Ive got a big post here to update progress on everything starting with the wheels, i was having great trouble finding something that would fit this chassis but then i had the idea of what if i changed the wheels so i could do a Fowler, some wheels were plucked off and old OO chassis,a nd the atlas wheels off their axles. with the new dremel and the milling bits with it, half the spokes were cut out of the wheels With the atlas chassis being live to one side the wheels only have insulation on the other, my ides to bond the new wheels to the axles on the live side was to countersink the holes in the wheels and cut a groove into the axle near the end so when the wheel goes on, the gap around the axle end can be filled with solder, the solder also fills the groove, locking the axle and wheel together. the the wheels on the other end where fitted by re using the plastic bushes from the old wheels and filing down the diameter to fit. a jack shaft was made up with brass on an 1/8th rod crimson has been chosen for this build, it was originally an old tin of Humbrol crimson but i remixed it with red and black to match as best i could to Jamie's locos while i was working on them. i also chose the name about this time too. "Artoria" which is an old spelling of Arthur as in king Arthur To fit my caricature of a fowler, much of the cast block had to cut off, this was done with effort with my hack saw It was just before Christmas i was again left stumped as to what i could do with the chassis as i realised that the proportions of a Fowler didnt fit. as the front of the cab should be at least a foot rear of the rear wheel centre, with the large motor in the way this couldnt be done, looking through i photos. plans and the internet, i settled on a 1930's Hudswell mainly inspired by Mary at Middleton. wheel dia' and base measurements in my Hudswell diesel book made it possible to get rough estimates o size and proportions from side on photos. but again the front of the cab fowling the motor got in the way, this time though there was a way out. The bonnet is wide enough and high enough that about a 1/3 of the motor can go into the bonnet through the front of the cab, this meant though cutting th ewhole chassis block down to the underside of the footplate, much effort and time again was taken on christmas day the top was cleaned and smoothed off with a large coarse file that worked perfectly, it looks a bit like these, but with straight ridges https://goo.gl/images/kaCbW5 the gaps between the ridges are something like 3 or 4mm I was htinking of re using the original outer chassis but it would need a lot of butchering and i dont think styrene cement would stick to that kind of plastic, 2mm styrene cut for the new outer chassis. the front end of the frame has been strengthened with a 10BA nut and bolt through a now un used gear hole with a bit of copper tube as a spacer in the middle, this copper will also be used a the contact point for the motor to the chassis by soldering a wire to it bufferbeams bolt heads added and i made a mistake on the height so a strip was added on top chassis frame spacermounted to the back of the bufferbeams with a hole cut out for the hook spring to sit in chassis parts together and sat on wheels, The jack shaft heads now need changing to a Hudswell style from fowler re using the brass pickup that now sits in this slot on the chassis side 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted December 27, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hacksawing all Christmas Day, that’s dedication, Sam. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 A lot of dedication to cut through those Atlas Chassis blocks. I wouldn't bother trying unless I had a vertical mill! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 I wouldn't bother trying unless I had a vertical mill! Well, I do have one but I would still saw out most of the waste and then clean up with the mill. With a sharp blade, steady hand and a sensitive action it shouldn't take long. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 the chassis is wired up and running the work on the jack shaft has been slow, i was going going to solder brass blcoks to the sides of the cranks and then file the curve into it but they kept breaking off while filing no matter how much heat i sank into them to get a good join so instead ive cut off the balance weight end and will make up 2 "D" shapes and then solder them on. so ive wasted several hours just getting bits of brass to stay together an file them down when i could have had it done in an hour and moved onto the coupling rods 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
enginelane Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 the chassis is wired up and running artoria (16).JPG the work on the jack shaft has been slow, i was going going to solder brass blcoks to the sides of the cranks and then file the curve into it but they kept breaking off while filing no matter how much heat i sank into them to get a good join so instead ive cut off the balance weight end and will make up 2 "D" shapes and then solder them on. so ive wasted several hours just getting bits of brass to stay together an file them down when i could have had it done in an hour and moved onto the coupling rods jackshaft.png artoria (17).JPG Hey ho but solution made Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 (edited) Yesterday, the new weights for the jackshaft were made and soldered on, the rods cut and drilled. a test run was done before i file them down to profile Last night i made Highwind's boiler and left the cladding in the bench clamp to dry overnight. This morning the excess was cut back and the boiler bands added. the (half) boiler was then glued to the underside of the tank and squared up to one end as for some reason it ended up a bit shorter, this was filled with a semi circle of 1mm at the smokebox end and then filed down to give a square end to meet up with the smokebox. the coupling rods have been filed down, painted and fitted. the crankpins are now on for good as the nuts have a tiny drop of superglue to stop them working their way off. firebox then glued together and sat on glass to make sure they go together straight, i estimated by position and diameter that the bottom of the boiler is about level with the footplate so here its resting on the glass to sit level, the firebox and tank/boiler line up with each other with centre lines marked on during construction Smokebox then glued on and then everything to the footplate, but before that i cut back the wheel arches on the inner edges, i had previously cut the ends a bit to sit the smokebox and firebox in but it looks better with a straight back edge and when i dry fitted the body assembly the wouldnt have been enough room between the arches and boiler for the springs. Also, chimney superglued on. as intended, the after this the inside of the firebox and rear portion of tank/boiler could be cut out with the dremel to fit the motor, i forgot to leave the rear portion of the tank empty of lead while making it bit i did in the boiler for minimal wastage of lead. the body now sits on the chassis and is now looking like a loco Edited December 30, 2018 by sir douglas 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 the safety valve cover on the firebox is an iS&D casting, the boiler pipework is copper wire and the brass smokebox handles is another bit from airnimal cut a test fitting the cab bunkers, in the clips are the front sand pots and the saddle tank lid 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Yesterday,... the crankpins are now on for good as the nuts have a tiny drop of superglue to stop them working their way off. Let's hope that you never need to take them off one day! Actually, I just use varnish for securing crank pin nuts but, if I were concerned that this would be inadequate, I would use a removable thread locker (eg Loctite 222 but there are others that do just as well). I have been asked to rescue Slater's driving wheels that had their crank pins and their nuts secured with superglue ... I'd find it not such an easy task without machine tools. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turin 60 Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 Let's hope that you never need to take them off one day! Actually, I just use varnish for securing crank pin nuts but, if I were concerned that this would be inadequate, I would use a removable thread locker (eg Loctite 222 but there are others that do just as well). I have been asked to rescue Slater's driving wheels that had their crank pins and their nuts secured with superglue ... I'd find it not such an easy task without machine tools. David To secure crank pin nuts I use ordinary PVA which does a good job of securing said nuts but which allows removal of the nuts after the application of a little water, so don't use waterproof PVA. John. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Lower firebox and ashpan ready for painting and fitting Dry fit in position, after this photo the firebox was covered in rows of rivet heads. At the front, the sands pots are cut down and fitted with steel rod superglued in for the pipes. The excess length of the worm gear was cut down as shown by the off-cut to the right, the worm gear now doesnt stick out below the ash pan Coal bunkers being started, with the same method as the Manning Wardle, the top beading L's are corners from etch frets with the corners rounded off the backsheet has the same beading at the top and an L-section across the bottom to give surface area to stick to the footplate, on the outside (rear) are 2 hooks for the fire cleaning rods right hand bunker soldered in On the left hand side of "Gardner" is the brake gear, unlike other locos but also common of other BP's like the cannock's, instead of a vertical brake column working a cross shaft under the footplate, the brake column is horizontal with the same way of the end being threaded working a bell crank which works straight down onto arms that push out the brakes set between the wheels The brake shaft crafted with a length of brass rod and a 12BA bolt soldered to it A handle was solder to end of the shaft and that soldered into a hole in the left hand bunker. The inner sideof the bunker needed a cut out for the brake handle The handrails are large brass pins, i kept the heads on for surface area to solder to corresponding holes were drilled in the footplate. the top beading is bent in to line up with the holes. also shown are the one of the sand pot lids beside the smokebiox and the saddle handrails, again another feature of the early BP's. If the front sand pot were on top of the footplate such as on the Cannocks, the rodding for them would go through the handrail on one side but icant see the rodding for under the footplate a side view to give an overall view of progress. the bunker hatches are added with styrene superglued on. the bunkers and backsheet wont be stuck down until after the firebox is done and painted 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted January 2, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 2, 2019 That really is coming along very nicely Sir Douglas - very good job so far! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Completely in awe at what you can do with a bit of plastikard! I live abroad at the moment, but will be moving back to the UK in the summer - I very much look forwards to seeing your work in the flesh at a show one day :-) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 thanks jdb82, ive got my layout booked for middleton this summer (june or july, i forget now) and i'll be doing a layout demo at the wakefield show in november. i too am following you bamburgh build 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 an overall base coat of dark grey up to the front third of the firebox and then the saddle, boiler, wheel arch faces and the outer faces of the bunkers & back sheet have a first coat of gloss black I forgot to put in a styrene block in the base of the smokebox while making it. this would have been for the screw to hold the body to the chassis, so instead ive had to put a block on the underside. the associated chassis stretcher with hole is glued in 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) thanks jdb82, ive got my layout booked for middleton this summer (june or july, i forget now) and i'll be doing a layout demo at the wakefield show in november. i too am following you bamburgh build[/ i shall definately be around for the Wakefield show, and if Middleton is in the 2nd half of July, I should make that one too. Slow progress with Bamburghat the moment......hopefully will be able to pick back up again from mid-January. Edited January 4, 2019 by jdb82 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 Matt black painted to the inside the bunkers and plates glued on. reversing lever and regulator stuffing box brake gear for each side being made up separately to the chassis s&d water gauges with copper wire and an overall base coat if black The brake gear sets are screwed onto the chassis from the underside to make them removable. Although i initially put them on the wrong way round, the mistake was realised a few hours later all thats left on the firebox are the salter safety valves (which i need to source from somewhere) and the whistle i had an idea to finally bring a close to the great trials of the Kerr Stuart trailing wheels. how well would it run if i made it a fixed wheels without side play or suspension, but before that i had another idea to try out which this time worked. it can actually run up and down my layout without the trailing wheels jumping around and derailing 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 8, 2019 Author Share Posted January 8, 2019 got dates for middleton now, 13-14 july Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted January 8, 2019 Share Posted January 8, 2019 got dates for middleton now, 13-14 july Might be cutting it a bit fine for that one... that's likely to be around the weekend I fly back, so I'll have to wait until the Wakefield show later in the year Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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