Jump to content
RMweb
 

Recommended Posts

Finished the figures who will be loco crew or inspectors the poorer quality will be in the enclosed cabs where they will not be so obvious.

It is noticeable how much better the higher quality figures paint up compared to the ones recovered from my first layout of 25 yrs ago even though they have been treated the same way in their repaint.

post-23520-0-75511600-1455469084_thumb.jpg

post-23520-0-30392300-1455469067_thumb.jpg

The man on the corner is the better one, if it is not obvious.

Richard

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Finished the figures who will be loco crew or inspectors the poorer quality will be in the enclosed cabs where they will not be so obvious.

It is noticeable how much better the higher quality figures paint up compared to the ones recovered from my first layout of 25 yrs ago even though they have been treated the same way in their repaint.

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

The man on the corner is the better one, if it is not obvious.

Richard

Niceset of figures.

 

There is an argument that says that at viewing distance you cannot see the details so you do not need to have them on the model.  This gives the lie to that because if the detail is there it adds to the overall impression.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is obvious that the man on the corner is the better one, but equally obvious that this is due to it being a better figure with greater relief and crisper sculpting.  To an extent shading and dry brushing depend upon the relief being there in the first place. 

 

Detail?  Well, I'm about to try out my first model railway figures, but I have painted some 1/72nd wargames figures.  In 28mm you need details such as the eyes paining in.  At 1/76 - 1/72nd, I doubt that you'd need to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have moments when I am envious of BR steam modellers. This is one of them. Their wheels are black all over. These have three colours on the rim alone. Use the fox transfers for lner engines I hear you say. True the colours are correct but the white lining does not go around the boss on the driving wheel. I hope shaking painting aside these have more accurate colours.

But don't look too closely, painting wheels is still a skill in progress.

post-23520-0-16958300-1456013404_thumb.jpg

 

Now I need to work out how to secure the chassis to the loco body.

Richard

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two steps forward one step back

 

That's often the way when scratchbuilding in any scale, especially 2FS.  One of the reasons I try to plan everything out in as much detail as I can before I start.  I've been in the position of having to go 10 steps back!! :no2:

 

Jim

Edited by Caley Jim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's often the way when scratchbuilding in any scale, especially 2FS.  One of the reasons I try to plan everything out in as much detail as I can before I start.  I've been in the position of having to go 10 steps back!! :no2:

 

Jim

In a sick I am not as badly off as the other bloke kind of way.

This makes me feel slightly better.

Admire any one who can work in 2mm. Have considered having a small 2mm layout as the flat is very small and that could allow me to run things in the round.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It'll get there;  I spent much of yesterday afternoon having fun trying to shoehorn a Triang B12 chassis under a hackbashed 'Lord Faringdon', which was an exercise in frustration, patience, futility and Anglo-Saxon in about equal measure. 

 

It's the way of things to be awkward, just slightly too tall, just slightly too wide, just slightly too long... and if they weren't there would be any satisfaction to be had in a hard job well done!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It'll get there;  I spent much of yesterday afternoon having fun trying to shoehorn a Triang B12 chassis under a hackbashed 'Lord Faringdon', which was an exercise in frustration, patience, futility and Anglo-Saxon in about equal measure. 

 

It's the way of things to be awkward, just slightly too tall, just slightly too wide, just slightly too long... and if they weren't there would be any satisfaction to be had in a hard job well done!

There would be satisfaction. If the gods of modeling are listening, I am quite happy to enjoy the surprise of it all going together first time, just once.........or is that like the perfect round of golf?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I have got away with cutting away more of the body.

Now need to level the running plate at the correct height and hope the wheels do not rub on the splashers

post-23520-0-21288200-1456191844_thumb.jpg

I am thinking it would be quicker to build the brass body work for the chassis and then have to worry about the lining.

Paint job or engineering which is the greater headache?

Richard

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now it turns out that the different depth to the back plate between brass and plastic shifts the wheels forward and they rub, so a section out of that has to go.

We will get there

Blame working out how to post with pictures off the I pad for this blow by blow venting of model annoyance. It is also because i need to be calmness itself at work so it has to come out somewhere.

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ティラヴィラヘタこと

 

Edit, Richard mentioned on Facebook that Japanese was far too complicated.

What you have typed is a mis translation Clive so 振る舞います.

But see what i mean about the complex make up of the characters. A real art form, no wonder caligraphy was encouraged and prospered

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next question

Signal sitting .

Please look at the picture and offer advice.

 

For the left hand track which splits off into a loop would the bracket signal be just in front of the points, set before them by a short way but within sight of the signal box, or beyond the bridge so it can be more easily be seen. For that matter would it be option two but very tall for sighting reasons?

The right hand tracks come towards the camera the signals to allow the train to either leave the platform or the loop, would they be on the end of the platform by the point, nearer the camera but have an instruction to stop short of the signal to not foul the point, between the tracks before the point is reached or on the platform before the point is reached.

Or any of the above as these all happened in real life.

 

 

post-23520-0-22630900-1456537915_thumb.jpg

Any help gratefully received

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tough one. In its earlier days the GC (or more the MS&L) was rather fond of tall signals, but I'm not sure about practice on the London extension. One thing, in some circumstances the signals might even be on the right hand side of the track for sighting purposes, the GC being a right hand drive railway. It might, for example, be located half way up the embankment if sighting made it necessary.

 

I should be inclined to put the bracket just short of the point, and assume that a distant signal beyond the bridge would warn of its setting. Occasionally the GC used both inner and outer distants, the former often on the same post as a home. (There was one such at Hyde Road, Manchester, for example, where a bridge blocked the view to the starter, and where, long ago, there had actually been a second signal cabin.)  It might well be that trains headed for the loop would be halted at the bracket (briefly) anyway. Reason for this, (suggested location) if you do any shunting work the engine would have to run all the way back to the other side of the signal before reversing (with a clear signal) which would be annoying if the signal was too far away.

 

BTW the GC originally put rings on the arms of signals relating to goods and slow lines, but at some point (in GC days) this practice was abandoned. Unfortunately I can't say exactly when, or how long it took for all the rings to be removed.

Edited by Poggy1165
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know nothing about GC practice, but my inclination would be that the home signal, with a bracket for the loop, on the left hand track would be about where the end of the furthest wagon is.  (where is the bridge?  Can't see it in the pic.).  It would have a second doll on the bracket for that track which disappears off through the backscene.  Coming the other way, towards the camera, the signals would be on the platform, just before the ramp.  It could be a centre post with two equal dolls.  If the road at the back of the platform is a goods line, then that might well have a dwarf arm or with a ring as Poggy suggests. You also need a signal for moves over the crossover between the centre and right hand roads.  If that were only shunting moves, then ground signal might be appropriate.    However, read my first phrase.  My knowledge comes from the recent book on CR practice, though it deals fairly comprehensively with what was general practice dictated by the BoT.

 

Jim

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, the crossover is only a shunt so will be a ground signal.

The rest I will feed in, it makes sense then to have the signal before the point, a outer distant lower down. Then two on the other post for the goods and the line leading off.

Two questions how do I get two signals wired to fire off the same post? Just more cranks? Then what about the postion on the other line the right hand , can the signal be beyond the platform and so beyond the point it controls?

Many thanks for the advice so far.

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...