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Emily laid bare: A Stirling effort


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Highly impressive, Mike, especially when one takes in to consideration the enlargement factor of the photos.

 

Keep going, you're almost at the end now.

 

Phil

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Lining added to the front of the cab, in this instance using laser transfer coaxed into a curve with Micro Sol:

post-3717-0-63259400-1425316768_thumb.jpg

 

Struggled to get the right hand one curved as above so resorted to hand painting (and it shows). They look like a pair of eyebrows!

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Remaining cab lining added:

post-3717-0-98163000-1425316777_thumb.jpg

 

Lining has now been added to the front of the side extensions. Strictly speaking there should be a fourth line but I have decided (for the moment) to omit it:

post-3717-0-53098200-1425316780_thumb.jpg

 

So that is most of the lining done on the left hand side. I just need to drum up the enthusiasm to tackle the right hand side.

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In which Emily gets her buffers out for the lads!

 

The lining is finally finished, at least, as much as I intend do. I did not intend to do the white around the buffer beams but in the end gave in. Even so I simplified it, as it should have a black outer band which I have left off:

post-3717-0-27196600-1425746006_thumb.jpg

 

I am really not happy with the handrails, the paint is not very smooth:

post-3717-0-85552100-1425746006_thumb.jpg

 

I have sent off for some sets of Guilplates transfers to provide the cab and buffer beam numbers:

post-3717-0-72593000-1425746007_thumb.jpg

 

I spent a tender hour with Emily the other night adding the white lining to her rear:

post-3717-0-43587100-1425746008_thumb.jpg

 

The white lining was just strips of white transfer paper cut and applied.

 

Hi Andy - I might be wrong, but I think that the cabs were flush faced.

Correct.
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Once the oily steel paint has had a chance to really 'go off', do you suppose you could buff it to a smooth finish?

 

The white line around the buffer beam edges was well worth applying, as it would have looked too plain without, when compared to the elaboration of the lining scheme elsewhere on the loco. Never mind absolute accuracy, this just reeks of the character of Mr Stirling's wonderful racing engine.

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Once the oily steel paint has had a chance to really 'go off', do you suppose you could buff it to a smooth finish?

Unlikely. The primer and paint has not taken well to the underlying N/S handrails and chips off easily (one for the lessons learnt at the end of the build).

 

The simplest option is probably to scrape it off and use a different paint - possibly Humbrol.

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Although I've not yet tried it out, it occurred to me that possibly the best approach to fitting handrails, even to a plastic or resin body, is to completely tin all of the knobs before fitting. I accept that the majority of the holes would need to be cleaned out again with a drill. If the handrails are supposed to be in burnished steel finish it is then just a mater of leaving the nickel silver wire (or bright steel if you trust it not to rust) unpainted. If you are painting the handrails anyway then the paint will adhere to the tinned knobs more effectively than it does to brass.

 

If you look at the world of car restoration, via say the Frost equipment catalogue, handy nickel plating kits are even available should you want really shiny handrail knobs....

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Very definitely. They started their service when four and six wheelers were the norm, and are superseded by the Atlantics as the heavier four and six axle bogie stock becomes the norm on the principal trains. (Vehicles fitted with knuckle couplers too, for the benefit of those who think these a rather more modern introduction: Stirling singles regularly worked trains with knuckle couplers and Pullman gangways...)

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Considering what you started with, Mike, you have finished up with a wonderful looking lady. Can't wait to see her finished with identity etc.

 

Phil

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