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Heljan class 17


M. Jones
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Yes thats exactly how the Ribble cement version should look.

 

http://www.ehattons.....aspx?SID=22784

 

http://www.railblue....Depth/D8568.htm

 

I'm very surprised the dealer was horrified, I'd have thought he'd have known what his stock looked like.

 

Thanks for clearing this up and the link. The link picture shows exactly what they look like. He's never stocked the Ribble Cement version, so it was all rather a suprise to him. I wonder if the 'green' version he ordered was the Ribble Cement and not the BR Green he intended. Still, mine was blue, so i'm not too concernedB)B)

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Guest Max Stafford

It seems that there have been a disproportionate number of Ribble chassis being dished out among the replacements. Here, we received 5 Ribble chassis though we only had two of that version needing done.

Answers to this riddle on the back of a ??5 note to my address please... ;-)

Dave.

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It seems that there have been a disproportionate number of Ribble chassis being dished out among the replacements. Here, we received 5 Ribble chassis though we only had two of that version needing done.

 

Answers to this riddle on the back of a ??5 note to my address please... ;-)

 

I'm rather enjoying this topic. :lol:

 

Lots of extra Ribble chassis!?! HMMMN. Maybe Heljan thought the Ribbles would sell like Blue Falcons and they were ready to release another "limited edition" Ribbles only with that fine factory weathering. ;)

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When Heljan first asked about how many replacement chassis we needed, we were simply asked to give the number wanted, no breakdown (pun partially intended) as to green or black was requested. Even if they were calculating what number of Ribble Cement ones we had as a proportion of the original delivery, by the time you factor in that not all were returned, plus we have agreed to re-chassis a number bought from other shops, then someone will get a wrongly coloured chassis.

 

When the replacements arrived, I too opened a green one first, and was somewhat perplexed when the next I opened was black!

 

As a Heljan stockist, I will be glad to see the end of this saga. Many customers who bought from the original batch have asked to be refunded, and there is obviously the inconvenience of dealing with the re-chassis work at a time when we should be gearing up for Christmas.

 

Thankfully, I had a skilled modeller to do my re-fitting work. Thanks Dave for a speedy job done!

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My local store have yet to recieve the new Clayton, and have as a result not recieved the replacement chassis. I hope it has nothing to do with them being recently taken over by a big chain. I am eagerly awaiting its arrival. It has become like waiting for the new single by your favourite band.

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Guest Max Stafford

The new mechanism does seem to be hugely improved Ross. I hope you'll find your wait has been worthwhile. It's certainly looking much more promising now. If there's a signature diesel locomotive for my own layout, then this is surely it! :)

 

Dave.

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If there's a signature diesel locomotive for my own layout, then this is surely it! :)

Dave.

Hear! Hear! Dave. Signature traction for me too.

 

Seems that some depots on here have been allocated new chassis even though the locos were not returned at the time of purchase in April..? When I called Rails today they seemed non-plussed about their strategy WRT the chassis replacements. When pressed on what I am to expect with my existing quartet - inadequate vulnerable performers all - I was told that replacement chassis are not being supplied for all early locos. AND that they would be undertaking the work themselves because 're-soldering cannot be left to the customers.' Oh, they did advise that another pair was on its way (another pre-order I selectively forgot, obviously). I will be interested to compare these, hopefully on Monday, and if they are cheese to 8545 & co's chalk, then I will be back onto Rails to see what's to be done about the thick end of 300-quid's worth of Danish potentially smokey bacon I already have....

 

There, a complete anti-climax of a first post on the new RM of Web.

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Just fitted my new chassis. I take my hat off to those who fitted more than one in an evening! Here's my instructions.

 

1 - Use a polybag to take the old chassis apart

2 - Those of you who've already taken the old chassis apart can skip this bit because you'll have already lost:

a) the buffer retaining clip

B) the spring

c) both

3 - don't even bother to examine the Axminster for the bits that ping off

4 - carefully examine the old and new chassis - marvel at how they look identical

5 - unsolder the body from the old chassis

6 - solder the new chassis

7 - realise you haven't fitted the headcodes

8 - spend 20 minutes trying to fit them

9 - unsolder the new chassis

10 - fit headcodes

11 - resolder the new chassis - those little tiny wires get very hot don't they?

12 - insert chip - nearly there!

13 - fit body on

14 - find the cab interior

15 - take body off

16 - fit cab interior

17 - fit body

18 - test run

19 - that headcode light is rather bright isn't it?

20 - take body off

21 - remove headcode light and dim it

22 - see point 8

 

GOOD LUCK!

 

FTR, runs ok. Not as quiet as a Hymek or 33, but generally smooth and very good at slow speed

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I think you may be refering to my post. Everything was done through the right channels etc, (this is loco number 2, as number one had the expiring problem) it has just not arrived yet. The shop I bought mine from have ordered the chassis, however they were taken over recently and it is that I am worried about.

I agree the machine looks classy and will consider buying another should everything go well, which seems to be the impression I get from the majority of posters.

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post-5047-12582235757199_thumb.jpg

 

A hint for those who expect to have the body off more than once during the lifetime of the loco: file a notch in each corner of the metal frame to clear the buffer ends, then you can remove and replace without ever having to touch the buffers again. You will have to remove the buffers at one end to get the frame off for the first time but after that, no problem. :icon_winker:

 

HTH

 

David

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A hint for those who expect to have the body off more than once during the lifetime of the loco: file a notch in each corner of the metal frame to clear the buffer ends, then you can remove and replace without ever having to touch the buffers again.

:icon_thumbsup2:

 

Why didn't Heljan think of that! :icon_e_wink:

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Guest Max Stafford

What the man said David! This idea of yours is an inspired bit of thinking and one I shall be adopting as standard in my own fleet!

 

Dave.

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Where have you been hiding 'Chard' - wondered if you had got lost in the whitrope tunnel after indulging your borders alter-ego?

Without hi-jacking this thread, I went away for a bit and had a modelling mojo wobble, which remedied itself, unaccountably some will say I'm sure, when TeBay threw-up some very pleasing Hornby Met-Cam triples. There - I've confessed: *wink*. Further news will form my next blog entry on the layout.

 

Back to the OP, after Monday's much anticipated arrival (ahem) I expect my eBay worktop to become a Clayton-infested workbench, and the existing (stored) quartet to be putting-in serious running-in mileage on the roundy. That's if I can prise Birmingham's finest DMUs from it...

 

Apologies for the hijack...

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I received my Ribble Cement replacement chassis from Howes this morning, a bit of postal smashage had damaged one bogie side frame but I reckon a bit of superglue will fix that.

 

The new chassis is something of a revelation, running almost as well as the usual Heljan offerings. So far I have only run the loose chassis on my test plank but it takes power at 20% application and runs smoothly up to a good speed which compares very favourably with the 60% take up and grinding sounds of the original running flat out at near walking pace!

 

<_< Somewhat annoyingly I will have to buy a soldering iron if the headcodes are to work though as I do not possess such a thing, even then it will sit mostly motionless in a cabinet as I have no layout to run it on...........this modeller/collector dilemma is enough to drive a man to drink.....I find Fullers ESB does a good job of erasing any worries :P

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Guest Max Stafford

Hopefully the issue is now generally resolved. Some of my friends have now reported back on the performance of their refit models in favourable terms. One has informed me that his pair ran at the head of a decent sized goods train on the club layout for over two hours without even becoming appreciably warm to the touch. I've no reason to doubt the report so I'd count this as a very good sign!

 

Dave..

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Hopefully the issue is now generally resolved. Some of my friends have now reported back on the performance of their refit models in favourable terms. One has informed me that his pair ran at the head of a decent sized goods train on the club layout for over two hours without even becoming appreciably warm to the touch. I've no reason to doubt the report so I'd count this as a very good sign!

 

Dave..

 

If only. I purchased two earlier this year from two different suppliers. Both were very slow and put back in their boxes. I subsequently wrote off to the suppliers advising the status of the locos, both advised that a new replacement chassis would be sent as soon as they were delivered from Heljan. Since then one of the suppliers has sent me an email stating they have no more spare chassis however try again at the end of the month as they might get some more in. The other so far has not responded to any of my emails (Hattons). Looks like these models will now end up as static displays. I do feel disappointed by this particularly as they as such nice looking models and Hattons have always given me good service over the last 30 years.

 

Neil

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Guest Max Stafford

I'd repeat that advice Neil, I'm still waiting for a reply from Hattons myself, and might give them another try later too.

If all else fails then it is possible to modify the old chassis as has been demonstrated elsewhere.

Not ideal for you I appreciate and it shouldn't have to be that way, but it is still an option for those who don't manage to get a replacement chassis.

 

Dave.

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I'd repeat that advice Neil, I'm still waiting for a reply from Hattons myself, and might give them another try later too.

If all else fails then it is possible to modify the old chassis as has been demonstrated elsewhere.

Not ideal for you I appreciate and it shouldn't have to be that way, but it is still an option for those who don't manage to get a replacement chassis.

 

Dave.

 

Thanks Dave and PMP for your advice. You are of course correct there is always the option of returning them. I will however give them some more time to respond. I have been a customer of Hattons for about 30years and they have always been very good. I have also offered to cover the cost of postage of shipping the replacement unit. If I don't have any success in getting a replacement chassis I may have a go at trying to fix them myself and if that fails convert them into dummy units to double head with a good one. I am sure that they will come down quite a bit in price over time.

 

Regards

Neil

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I will however give them some more time to respond. I have been a customer of Hattons for about 30years and they have always been very good. I have also offered to cover the cost of postage of shipping the replacement unit. If I don't have any success in getting a replacement chassis I may have a go at trying to fix them myself and if that fails convert them into dummy units to double head with a good one.

 

I had a dud Clayton from Hattons -- they've written to tell me the new chassis is in stock and attached a link to the Heljan "how-to" video.

 

I replied that I don't even own a soldering iron, so what should we do? I mentioned again that the goods were clearly of unmerchantable quality, so should I simply get a refund from them.

 

They have already replied telling me that of course they are happy to fit the replacement chassis for me, and I should post it 2nd class back to them, making sure I get a "proof of posting" slip.

 

From that experience I figure they are on the case, but maybe have too many customers to deal with very quickly. I certainly wouldn't give up, though -- you have paid for a working model and you should either have that or a full refund. Good luck!

 

Paul

 

PS: I have also received one of the new batch of Claytons -- very smooth-running and very quiet (the original ones that didn't expire sound like a bag of spanners and take time to "warm up"). Delightful! If only the original batch had been like that. Still, it gives me confidence for the forthcoming BTH Cl.15.

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Guest Max Stafford

And if any of you traders out there have any spare replacement chassis, can you bounce some my way please? I'm still short! ;)

 

Dave.

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To you many 'experienced' Clayton owners, a question. To convert my new machine to EM do I need to Ultrascaleise or can it be done otherwise? Alternatively, is it unwise to do anything to it in case it expires?

Hope someone can help and if this needs to go in the Advice section, so be it!

Thanks, p.

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Guest Max Stafford

The choice is yours. You could do the Ultrascale thing or you could pull the factory wheels out on their axles to the same effect. I can't imagine an extra .75 mm each side will cause any more mechanical shennanigans than we have already!

 

Dave.

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I had an e-mail from Hattons three days ago saying that the chassis for my faulty unit was in stock, and gave me the option of them doing the work or sending me the chassis, for me to do, I chose the latter.

New chassis duly arrived the following day.

Have not had time yet to do the job.

But found Hattons very good.

 

Derek

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