Jump to content
 

Heljan class 17


M. Jones
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest 30-something

Hi Folks

 

Has anyone taken a Clayton to bits? Im thinking of buying a Ribble Cement one, stripping it and repainting in GFYE

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Folks

 

Has anyone taken a Clayton to bits? Im thinking of buying a Ribble Cement one, stripping it and repainting in GFYE

 

I suspect it might be harder to find someone who has *not* taken one of the first batch to bits :blink: But to answer your question, yes, I've stripped mine down to the bare frame. Everything comes off with minimal difficulty and I filed notches in the frame corners so as to avoid removing the buffers in further maintenance efforts.

 

HTH

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest 30-something

I suspect it might be harder to find someone who has *not* taken one of the first batch to bits :blink: But to answer your question, yes, I've stripped mine down to the bare frame. Everything comes off with minimal difficulty and I filed notches in the frame corners so as to avoid removing the buffers in further maintenance efforts.

 

HTH

 

David

 

Thanks for your reply David, very helpful. I'll get myself a Ribble one!

 

Cheers

 

Joe

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I've just purchased D8529 via a certain well known auction site. Having read this thread it would seem that this model was in the first batches?? I'm now wondering how good it's going to be. And if I've made a mistake?

 

Pete

 

Well Pete, there's only one way to find out ;) . Take the engine for a test drive and if its not up to snuff there's no lack of information on how to set if right if you go back through this thread. Good Luck

 

Cheers,

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well Pete, there's only one way to find out . Take the engine for a test drive and if its not up to snuff there's no lack of information on how to set if right if you go back through this thread. Good Luck

 

 

That's so very true, now where did I put that club hammer?

 

Thanks

 

Pete

 

Ps I'll let you know the outcome when it arrives.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My (first batch) models have been away with the retailer, awaiting repair, for nearly a year now. Still no news or time-scales.

 

is it time to give up, get my money back, and put it away in anticipation of the next batch ?

 

I have actually had a few sleepless nights over this issue; it just isn't funny anymore.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Max Stafford

Whilst it's undeniably a source of frustration, I think sleepless nights over a couple of model locos is a little disproportionate. I'd say go with PMP's advice, get a refund and cut your losses.

Don't have nightmares... ;-)

 

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This should have been sorted out long ago, if they are not ready by now then they will never be ready.

 

Has the Retailer gone bust? Or have they lost them?

 

Except for soldering the wires for the lights, it is a 10 minute task to swap the chassis over

 

BSG has already been given sensible advice, let's not sensationalise or speculate please.

 

Thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all

I've just tried my Clayton out on my ancient (and none too clean) trackwork, a first radius trainset oval along with my equally ancient gaugemaster controller. Although it took nearly 70% power to get it rolling it seems to run ok, reasonably quiet and smooth (none too quick though which isn't necessarily a bad thing). I tried it for 5 mins in each direction with no signs of smoke and or overheating. I'll give it a longer trial at a later date.

 

All the best.

 

Pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

If its affecting you that badly I'd get a refund. The chassis problem is genuine and those examples you purchased are clearly faulty, I would hope the refund would be straightforward.

 

My faulty 17's were with Hattons for less than a week, they should have been back before now. And there is a big difference in performance on their return

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am still waiting too for a rejuvenated one to appear. Not to worry as which ever way things happen I will be able to have an engine that is fixed, or if the chassis doesn't appear as promised then it will be money back (very good shop). I noticed at BH last weekend some from the 2nd batch were being offered for £40

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Cornish shop based in Redruth. If I recall it was D8507 (blue). When I went back to further investigate they had all gone. Kestrel was going rather cheap too. If I manage to get a week away at 1/2 term I shall be visiting them looking for some more top bargains.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Hi,

 

Can anyone tell me what would be a good dcc chip to fit into a Class 17? I've today tried to fit a Bachmann chip (the only ones I have any experience with whatsoever) only to find there's actually not enough room for it....

 

And is there no other cure for the headlight other than to disconnect it? Just seems a shame when I'm adding lights to all my other loco's to leave this one out

 

Thanks in advance for any responses

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

And is there no other cure for the headlight other than to disconnect it? Just seems a shame when I'm adding lights to all my other loco's to leave this one out

 

Thanks in advance for any responses

 

The problem with the light behind the headcode is its intensity. You get a bright spot with dark all around so the two centre characters are washed out and the outside ones dark. Now, if you can figure out a way to diffuse the light all is well, it's just that no body has done that yet (or if they have they're not telling). The path of least resistance is to leave the headcode box unlit. Of course if you insist on running in the dark then something will need to be done :blink:

 

HTH

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I have two that were returned (on 23/5 2009 !) to where I purchased them - they are believed to be still awaiting for the new chassis to arrive. I know of at least 1 other person who is also waiting for the same shop to sort his model.

 

I ring up periodically but it needs a dedicated journey as its about 80 miles away. In recent times I am being told that it should be anytime now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Just rediscovered one of the early batch that I had forgot I purchased. I seem to remember getting it from some anon box shifter at an exhibition when they first came out. Its a lemon! I think my chances of getting a replacement chassis are slim and none. With Slim having ridden out of town long ago. Going back over this thread for hints and tips on getting it to run properly. If anyone has anything to add to what's already been posted PLEASE!!!!!!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Max Stafford

For those of you operating pairs of the locos, there exists the possibility of ripping out the motor and gear trains and running your dud loco as a dummy.

Undoubtedly a low tech solution and it also saves DCC operators all the hassle of consisting!

 

:)

 

Dave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...