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Playing around with forced perspective again while I wait for glue to dry on the bridge. I am yet to acquire an 0 gauge Britannia, however I do have one or two in 00 gauge that I never sold all those years ago when I jumped into 7mm.

 

So here are a photo showing 70052 Firth of Tay, posing behind 45562 Alberta and Black 5 44871.

 

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I expect you will be needing a Brit at some point !!

 

Indeed I shall be - at least that is the plan.

 

Fine Scale Brass have a pre-order on Britannia's at the moment. Here is the link: http://www.finescalebrass.co.uk/o-gauge-locomotives-55h-models/br-7mt-britannia-class.htm

I've put a hold on one, but they won't be in stock until early 2016 - which is good as it gives me time to save the nearly $5,000Au needed to purchase the model. I just hope the exchange rate improves between now and then, as currently the Australian dollar is only worth 45 pence. :(

Edited by Newtz1981
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Working away today - what better way to spend a Sunday than modelling  :D

 

Here are some photos showing progress on the bridge. All the brick sheeting has been applied, cut to shape and trimmed where needed.

 

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After that was done I took out my Humbrol black wash and attacked the brickwork with a heavy coat.

 

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After each wall was painted I rubbed the wash back with a tissue, very lightly so as to leave paint on top of the brick work as well as in the mortar courses. All walls have now been finished in this way and they are starting to look like they fit in.

 

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With an off-cut of brick wall sheeting, I have made up a weathering test. The wash was given over, as above, and then when that was dry I applied Humbrol 'Smoke' weathering powder over the sheeting. In some areas I gave a heavy covering and more sparing in others. As I was doing this I was referencing photos of red brick railway structures in the mid-late 1960s. I'm very happy with the look of this test piece and I'm looking forward to giving the bridge walls this same treatment.

 

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Edited by Newtz1981
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Using scenic rust on the wheel barrows for Newton Grove. This stuff is totally amazing and I love how it works. Essentially it is real rust, brought about by a chemical reaction.

 

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So far one of the barrows is completed while the other still needs to be finished. Here is the process I've used to achieve what I think is a great look:

 

The wheel barrows were assembled and sprayed with matt black and allowed 24hrs to dry. One dry they are given a liberal coat of the scenic rust mix (50/50 consistency) and allowed to dry. One dry you then add the chemical that turns the 50/50 mix into rust. Again, this is left to dry - or if you are like me you borrow a hair drier and speed the 8hr process up into 5-7 mins.

 

When the first application is totally dry I then painted over the entire barrow with Humbrol Rust Wash. Again this was dried with the hair drier and then left to sit. Once completely dry (and not hot) a second coat of scenic rust was added - this time I mixed 65% particles with 35% glue. This really gives you some 'clumps' which totally transform the smooth lines of the barrow into something totally realistic. Again the mix was dried and then the chemical was added, very liberally.

 

A final going over with the hair drier really brings the detail up within 5-7 minutes and looks amazing!

 

Here are some images to show the end result:

 

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The second barrow (which is yet to be completed with the rust treatment) has been 'bashed' around quite a lot. I really wanted one barrow to look like it had been hit by a locomotive at some point, as I know this happens often - even on preserved railways. So, hopefully you can see this detail in the below image.

 

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I HIGHLY recommend this Scenic Rust product to you all! It is amazing and gives the best results I have ever seen on a model. I'll be using this stuff on my 16t mineral wagons too!!  :D

Edited by Newtz1981
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Having been so impressed with the effects generated by using Scenic Rust, I decided to make a start on one of the Peco 16T mineral wagons. These wagons were actually the very first items of 0 gauge stock I ever purchased, so it's about time I got around to finishing them off.

 

Here is a collection of images that showcases the stage by stage process of weathering. What you are about to see is a combination of Scenic Rust, Humbrol washes and Humbrol weathering powders. I'm far from finished the wagon, but it's a very good start.

 

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And here is a real one, just to compare (although I wanted my wagon to look brutal ;) ):

 

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The Skytrex bridge girders arrived today and I have wasted no time in cleaning them up and seeing how they look on the road bridge. They are a perfect fit and I really like the look of them. Either side of the girders I shall be placing brick walls. These will be made from balsa wood and then the red brick plastic sheeting will be placed over to match the rest of the walls.

 

So far, it's looking great!  :)

 

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Very nice Newts, great shots there - Coming along well.

 

Cheers, Bob.

 

Thank you Bob. Slowly but steadily and I'm loving it all. I won't have the shed until August 2016, but hopefully I can get most other parts done before it arrives - then I can start to book the layout for exhibitions.

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Slaters, Springside, and me! (although, I only make them for me :))

 

best

Simon

 

Thank you Simon.

 

I may need to look into producing some myself, as what I've seen from Slaters and Springside are not what I'm looking for. I want loads of them so I can create a 'pile' of them, which were commonly seen around MPD's

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Wow, I can't believe it's been over a month since I put up any form of post, and more alarming is that it's been even longer since I've done more work on Newton Grove. However, yesterday that changed and progress has been made on:

 

* The bridge

 

* The Boffy

 

* Details - concrete fence posts

 

So to start with on this post, I'll show you what I've started to do on the Boffy. I purchased a kit from SkyTrex a few months ago of their Boffy, which is actually quite a good looking kit. This kit does not come cast in one massive piece like some of their other products do, which is fantastic. I gives me more flexibility.

 

Given the space available on my layout on board #3 is smaller than the length of the Boffy, I decided to modify it by cutting off one end of it to make it shorter. This was easily achieved and I made up remaining bricks on the end wall by using Slaters 7mm red brick sheeting. Here are some photos to show you all the progress and modifications so far:

 

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Next job will be to clean up the sides so that the kit will assemble easily and then paint the inner walls. After that, I can start painting the building before putting the roof on.

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Second that I have been working on is the road bridge. This project is very improvised as I've never really done anything like this before, so I'm taking my time on it and trying to be as careful as I can.

 

I have painted the base of the road and also painted one of the bridge girders. Below the road I have cut out more iron beams that go underneath, however the middle girders are of the lattice type, which I will show you all later.

 

Here are a few shots of how the bridge is looking so far:

 

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