ozzyo Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 It's starting to get there, maybe a bit more off the centre on the left. On the right I'd say that you want a bit off the tool tunnel base, if you remove a bit too much it will be hidden. Looks like you'll have to start thinking about doing the tender sides soon! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 I've discovered why I have gaps at the front, when I laminated the front and rear plates the solder is just enough to put the sides out slightly so a bit of a clean up is required. Thanks for giving me the heebie jeebies OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 So GoG's and fellow 7mm builders are a few gaps to be expected. It all depends on what caused the gaps. Some are designed in error, some are built in, some are just just inevitable. some can be filled by solder, some can be filled by filler, some require reassembly. Gaps of thickness greater than the thickness of the metal usually mean something is wrong and needs attending to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Thanks again Kenton for your guidance. Between making a jig I managed a while on the hopper, even in 7mm you need at least 3 hands And now its in position and not looking too bad I made the gap on the right as is to concentrate on getting the left hand side correct. Much more to be done as I need to finish the jig before attempting the dreaded bends. Grasshopper J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 So making the Jig for the bend on the Tender side. Started off with some 10mm steel bar and some quadrant. Next was to cut both to size then add some spare etch 0.7mm to either end, then using a small cut off of quad to get the right distance between the brace and bar I had to drill either end to keep it tight using a nut and bolt. Have tested it and it looks good Another tweak and it looks spot on. Big thanks to Norton961 for putting up the plans for the jig and to OzzyO for computing the size for 7mm Next the Bends Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Looking good John, the confidence is growing. . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 I made the gap on the right as is to concentrate on getting the left hand side correct. I know photos can be really cruel and appear to exagerate everything, but I would be still a little concerned to the cause of that gap. From my take on the photo the joins at the curved ends do not seem to be even being closer to the top edge of the curve on the right than the left. Could be just enough to pull the right side out of vertical plain enough to generate the gap? It isn't the end of the world as it is only the bodywork and no one will notice when it is filled and painted. BTW I hate tenders - supposedly the easiest part to build but for some reason they so often are not. Good progress. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Thanks Kenton I made that gap on purpose honest guv I took a few mill off the 'ledge' just to make life easier the gap will not be seen as the fire iron tunnel will cover it. Quick update, all of this for a jig My friend gave me a rather large piece of beech wood, well I couldn't refuse it so I set about making a sturdy base for the jig took a while but it's done the trick. So thats the jig finished and ready for the Bend, I will have a practice first to see how it goes if it's as good as the test piece I will be pleased. Now I have to tidy up before a well needed pint. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 Well this morning has been nervous to say the least, I admit I practiced several times before I attempted the tender side bends I tried annealing a spare side but I must have used too much heat as it was slightly warped so I scrapped that idea and just bent them Carefully as they were. So I went for it not a tip toe in the water a full body splash, when I thought one side was OK I did the other, this is a dry fit. Then the front bends I'm no expert but I think they look OK. So next was to fit the right hand side, tacked it first and made sure all square Now fully in place The fire iron tunnel support now in place Now I have to form the fire iron tunnel itself. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Hi John, That looks spot on, those curves are very neat and the soldering looks nice and tidy looking at that seam along the inside of the fire iron tunnel. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 I like the look of them top curves, Well done mate. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 A bit of progress although slow going, the fire iron tunnel was a bit harsh I formed it 3 different times but I could not get rid of a gap at the bottom and also trying to match it up with the front so I fixed it in place anyway and as I had to fill a gap at the back I just used a bit of scrap to fill the gap, The coal should cover it From the top I've fitted the ventilators overflow dome and water filler Both sides now fitted and water level guage And some ad hoc pics Still lots to do but getting there. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Looks good now mate, soon be doing the loco now Len Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Hope you got the gap on the right rear in photo 3 from the top sorted out. The build looks to be coming along nicely. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 I think it is shadow OzzyO looks OK in the flesh Another slow morning, the handrails were stubborn but thats probably me, anyway all fitted Fitted the rivet strip around the back plate and also fitted the eyes Looks like the outer frames next although still some work on the tender but I'm following the Inst. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2014 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 This is looking really nice and bringing back memories of my Gladiator tender build (which I understand are based on the same basic etches). I will follow with interest, you'll be overtaking me though, I feel very slow! Not sure if you are springing the buffers, but if you are, the frames on mine fouled the ends of the buffer nuts. The instructions recommend you remove part of the etch, but even so it wasn't enough and it was very awkward to get in there to grind out enough metal, I wish I'd done it before I soldered on the buffer beams and added the steps. A pic says a thousand words: Mine now have too much buffer shaft extension as before I resorted to hacking into the frames, I ground some of the rear of the buffer casting off thinking that would help. It does allow you to fit the buffers but doesn't help with the actual problem (the frame is too close) and now I'll need to put some washers in to get the buffer extension right again! Looking forward to the next update, keep the pics coming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks Tim, strange you mention that. yes I would like sprung buffers and I noticed on OzzyO's Anne thread that he removed the back plate maybe that will be a cure ??? Just taking each step at a time though Tim but the buffers wont be long. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share Posted April 2, 2015 Making progress on the outer frames, some parts reminded me of 4mm bloody fiddlly Tim, I cut out some half etched pieces from the frames to allow for sprung buffers, was this your problem. They both fit nice to the tender body but a bit more work is needed before I fit them. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Bit more added to the outer frames before a final fit, Buffer beam in place And last job before Iron switched off, the Drag beam. Things are slowly coming together, did a test fit of the chassis and looking good. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 4, 2015 Author Share Posted April 4, 2015 Not much progress still a bit heavy handed with the iron spent some time replacing or fixing parts that I had previously soldered Here is Bid daddy V's little daddy, first real fit with the chassis, even the 8ba screws proved troublesome, personally I think they are too long. All I've added is the drag beam buffing plates, the rear upper brackets and the platform support Not too worried about the support as it will be covered, the kit has two to choose from so must get my head around that, but that is tomorrow. Oh and I have a slight drag on the rear wheels which I suspect is caused by me putting some resin on the inside of the brake shoes to avoid shorting, will have to give them a rub down. Pleased though the chassis and body go together very well. Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Not much progress still a bit heavy handed with the iron spent some time replacing or fixing parts that I had previously soldered Speed is the essence when soldering - go in determined with sufficient heat and get out fast (a receipe for life I guess) something you learn and get better at the more you do. Either that or use a higher melt solder (eg 212, 175) for the bits that come first and are likely to get conductive heat from later additions (eg 145). Also when set a solder never seems to melt at its original spec MP. even the 8ba screws proved troublesome, personally I think they are too long. That's easy, cut the bolt shorter (while it has a nut threaded on). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Thanks again for the wise words Kenton, Did some work yesterday but didn't get a chance to give an update. All the axle boxes and steps now in place Platform, intermediate buffers, Vacuum pipe, lamp brackets, lamp holder all fitted. while holding the body filing away the rear of the axle boxes to make sure all clear of the wheels, I managed to bend one of the axle boxes, Yep I did it, trying to straighten it it snapped bloody WM so a repair is needed but it will have to wait as I'm out most of the day. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 while holding the body filing away the rear of the axle boxes to make sure all clear of the wheels, I managed to bend one of the axle boxes, Yep I did it, trying to straighten it it snapped bloody WM so a repair is needed Been there, done that, and I'm sure we are not alone . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 All fixed Martyn, any idea which one I broke Not much to show for a mornings work, Couplings assembled although not sure if they are the right way round ? they are quite a tight fit but move quite freely might put a dab of solder on to keep them in place. The buffer housings took an hour to file away what looked like a screw which stopped them from being fitted to the beam, all done now and a nice fit. Now the bad news I dry fitted the buffers after a little reaming of the housing and all is well, when I tried to assemble the buffers with the springs I've discovered that there are no nuts that fit the end of the buffer they are all too big. Any idea's I tried a 10ba nut but no good. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Try 12BA. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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