Grasshopper John Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Try 12BA. Way too small OzzyO 10ba was too small 8ba too big???????? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Way too small OzzyO 10ba was too small 8ba too big???????? metric ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 metric ? Could well be. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 metric ? Indeed Kenton, I was just trying what I had in stock I bought a lot as I started on very old kits, now I'm all modern will pop out this morning to get the correct nuts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 All sorted 2mm was needed so I bought a few and some .8mm split pins which may come in handy, I couldn't get shorter springs so in the process of making them shorter as they are the buffer seems to stick out far to far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Bit more progress this morning, You can see my use of the .8 split pin it's holding the spring for the coupling in place. Now this might be unauthadox but it worked, First I shortened the springs then assembled the buffers using my new 2mm nuts to hold in place,then I shortened the buffer by using Kentons advice with the nut in place. now I needed to check for clearance behind the beam so I widened the holes in the beam to accept the whole assembly nice fit and enough clearance for working buffers Here they are depressed ( No not that kind Horse ) all fixed in place. Last job was fitting the steam heating pipe, here is the back all finished Last job is to fit the cross beams to the outer frames if fitted you can't remove the chassis so I will take some advice before I tackle them. Think I might start looking at the Loco Inst now as the Tender is all done. And yes I have enjoyed it although I've been frustrated at times what I didn't realise was that being bigger 7mm also has much more detail Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Hi John, Just a couple of pointers, with the couplings I like to put a washer between the spring and the back face of the buffer beam, this helps to keep the coupling hook stand out straight rather than leaning to one side. And secondly the buffers should compress a bit more than what you show, just a case of either trying different springs or cutting down the springs you have. By the way the tender looks the biz . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share Posted April 8, 2015 Hi John, Just a couple of pointers, with the couplings I like to put a washer between the spring and the back face of the buffer beam, this helps to keep the coupling hook stand out straight rather than leaning to one side. And secondly the buffers should compress a bit more than what you show, just a case of either trying different springs or cutting down the springs you have. By the way the tender looks the biz . Martyn. AH cheers Martyn why didn't I look 20 mins ago, The coupling Was leaning quite badly to the right so I stripped it down and took a bit more off the spring, It's a lot better than before but I wished I'd thought of the washer. The buffers cant compress any more than the frame cut out allows Martyn unless you mean cutting the buffer even further which now they are in place would mean quite a bit of fettering, While amending the coupling I added a small bit of detail to the steam pipe as nothing seemed to be holding it so a bit of scrap copper and job done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 8, 2015 Share Posted April 8, 2015 Hi John, Regarding the buffers, I am sure there's a supplier that makes a " self contained " buffer unit that does not need the cut out to work properly. Perhaps someone reading this will come up with the suppliers name, as I just cannot remember at present. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot6p Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 MOK do a Stanier self contained buffer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted April 10, 2015 Share Posted April 10, 2015 Alan Gibson claims to do self-contained buffers, but I'm not sure of their range. I've not seen any either. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 Thank you all for the advice, although I'm pleased with the way my fabricated buffers turned out, I love solder as you can repair replace parts if required which happened to the Grasshopper. Nearly finished the Bogie a few more bits to add and have to shape the guards. Will finish tomorrow when I get the feeling back in my back I tend to stand all the time as I'm concentrating so much I keep forgetting I have a chair but it's a easier standing having to reach for various tools ect. Looking at the frames soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 Bogie is finished and runs very nicely The first bends to the guards The last was to cut the guards just above rail level And the final job was to add the strengthening bars to the front and rear, I thought to give it a more 'realistic' look the bars are held in place by two 12ba nuts. I have assembled the AWS body thats fits on the front but not sure whether to fit it, also it looks 'wrong' if you know what I mean. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 11, 2015 Share Posted April 11, 2015 A very good recovery my friend. OzzyO. PS. I do know what he did. Ho Ho He He. PPS. John 1 bogie 0. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 Guards ends now tapered. Now starting the hard work and preparing the frames. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Hello John, the bogie is looking good, I've been looking at the attached photo and this beam could be where the AWS is fitted (but I can't see any mounting holes) looking at the sides of the frames it looks like the mounting bolts for the guard irons are showing at this end. The photo is copyright and is shown to illustrate a point. If anyone has a photo like this showing the AWS mounted would you please post it up. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 Thanks again OzzyO you always come up with the goods Made a start today on the frames took an age to file them and the springs, I noticed a locating hole on one of the springs and set about opening them all up with a broach ( 4mm tools come in very handy ). Next was the spacers first job was to solder all the nuts in place when I was happy and all true I made the folds. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Most of the day has been spent on preparation Slaters driving wheels needed a bit of work on the backs as I discovered when I first put them on the bogie, they refused to budge lesson learn t. Next was to work out the position of the motor as there was no mark for the rear driving wheel where the plunger should go. I then had to drill the holes for the plunger pick ups, I tried doing both frames at the same time but my mini drill wasn't man enough so a painstaking hour to drill 6 holes. The first hole was all over the place as I used a drill stand for the first time without setting it up first ( there is quite a bit of movement in it though ) so a quick fix with some solder and Re drilled it. Here are the frames so far with the bearings all in place and some spare pick ups just dry fitted I've soldered the seams on a couple of spacers to add strength. Next laminating the springs and the fixing the spacers in place. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 It's quite clear 7mm scale was meant for you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Thank you Horse. I must say a very satisfying mornings work, well by my standards First job was to laminate the springs I have no idea why they are so detailed on the inside but thats 7mm for you. I centered them all using some .6mm wire then soldered the wire from the inside when all true I just went round some of the outside at the top securing them to the frame. Next was to fit the spacers two either side, then a first dry fit with the wheels Looking very good I checked and double checked everything before joining them together just tacking them in place put on a flat surface and had a very slight rock after a tweak the rear spacer was the culprit by about a mm so after the tack had broken I just soldered it without using any pressure ( very guilty of this sometimes ) It worked a treat frames now firmly married and fixed in place The wheels run sweetly on my granite slab so all is good. Next is adding detail to the chassis, Can't wait Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 A painstaking day spent on the wheels of the Tender, Bogie, and Loco. All seemed good after a lot of prep. I have painted all the wheels in etch primer the Tender and Bogie look good after a second coat but the drivers are a different matter am going to have to strip and redo. Here they are all prepared And the finished article I spayed them using a small box Will have to spend some time on the drivers and wil post a pic when done. Grasshopper PS only 2 look bad but because I've riveted the weights most of the detail is missing because of having two coats, HO HUM. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Hi John, Did you degrease the wheel rims of the drivers before applying the primer ? They usually need a good scrub first. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Hi John, Did you degrease the wheel rims of the drivers before applying the primer ? They usually need a good scrub first. Martyn. He did, then he gave them a wash in some nice water. Guess what happened? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Ha Ha they turned Green and Brown, had to clean them all over again with a scotch pad ( the scouring part of the sponge you clean pans with ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 Well after a first go at the drivers I had to clean them all up and start again, I also cut out some sticky labels to cover the bearings on the bogie inside and outside. Next coat of primer all looking good and did the bogie as well Neither of my mini drills was big enough to keep the axle for the bogie which would have made life easier so I had to do it by hand using a couple of scalpels and my scotch pad, will have to think of something for the tender and drivers as it's a lot of work, although probably worth it. The tips of my fingers hurt Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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