N15class Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 If you blacken the wheels it helps stop rusting and then there is no need to paint unless the are coloured. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Spent all morning cleaning all the wheels A bit of paint makes all the difference though The etch primer was a booger to get off it was very time consuming but I think worth it. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Yesterday was spent on preparation lots of cutting out and filing, first was the coupling rods and the brake cross beams, and a little bit of detail to the frames. Today its been non stop soldering and more filing, Coupling rods all done, cross beams completed and last the brake shoes. I wasn't sure about the pivot links on the outside of the shoes I was going to use super glue but decided a bit more detail was needed so with some .45mm wire I soldered all three in each shoe. You can see here what I did with the two at the back. The finished article Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2014 Posted April 19, 2015 Share Posted April 19, 2015 Making progress on the outer frames, some parts reminded me of 4mm bloody fiddlly DSCN0366.JPG Tim, I cut out some half etched pieces from the frames to allow for sprung buffers, was this your problem. DSCN0367.JPG They both fit nice to the tender body but a bit more work is needed before I fit them. Grasshopper Bit late chiming in on this, sorry, I must enable email notification! No I cut off the recommended bits too, but it wasn't enough to accomodate the full depth of the buffers when the springs are compressed and I had to hack out a bit more, I see you've sorted that now. It's coming along really nicely - great stuff. I fancy a Black 5 one day (a long way away!) so this is very interesting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Welcome back Tim, I cut out the half etched pieces at the back of the frames on the Tender but then measured how much distance the buffer would travel before hitting the back, the length of the buffer was far too long so I cut it down while all assembled then reduced the length of the spring. It worked out OK. But a lot is trial and error and believe me I tend on the Err side Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 The twist is due to catching the edge of Bushey troughs when the fireman was a bit previous with the scoop mechanism. The local operating department weren't happy with the damage to the trough front, either. Hello JeffP, I've been looking for some photos / drawings of water troughs and I have found them. There is no ends to a trough as such, to keep the water in all they did was add inclines at the trough ends as you can see in this drawing. In the top of the drawing you can see the rail at the left and a short bit at the right, A photo showing the end of the trough, I though that I had one showing how the water finishes in the trough but I cant find it, This is a very large blow up of a photo, you can just make out how the water finishes towards the end of the trough, and a couple more The above are copyright and only used to show a point. HTH OzzyO. PS. this link may help with some more photos https://uk.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=avg&hsimp=yhs-fh_lsonsw&type=ff.37.xp.tb.18-03.gb.avg._._¶m1=rVG5btwwFPyVNGIngZd4FCzsOAYCuDASB3b7xEOrwDpCarX23-dJm6NNEYLgDIfkvKeRH4KrdEc7EYz1oW5bkLXkra4NE7oWVqrUJk9lbCsdSHBMWCVbIRTFQUJxsPXQUfIKU-_iREY0tNwKYTWIaI3UgRoTAFoQ2itphdc1BCYt6yL3UXnGeVKdUgnA0qip5yH6pIOQnizoViDF_gw5kCXjhmyOmUY0tDGmJR_POcdpfYQ-fvvy4E7rulQCKp5wju8lQvanBlts_DyitOC9gvj7oCxvlUhYpRLhT52Kq9KjgOiPkwrzuP2niFC9w2fj8ey_xYCOoaDhNeq9rfkogPu1w2VXxuVXq2pD-JsQCvuvQS1OyJd8fOnuiIRTJmuKk2PnnFKDIG4kv8JeqQDmGdaM9AeSDMPrBd6P2xdYYz7YmudzfyoHX07zOhfyNeYt5s937umW1w83L_Xz_SdGybA4oxrGeGNNw4Uic3HPwxTmS_nw8kg6dz_kmOY30m1O6IYSH91TPkfyvVzJTw2¶m2=toolbar_search_button¶m3=ff.37.xp.tb.18-03.gb.avg._._&p=railway+water+troughs+photos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Looks like a very steady gradient down into the water. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 A very slow mornings work, Laminating the brake rods was easy, getting them square was another matter. So today I've fitted the brake cylinder and the cylinder mounts the wire is loose just to test all ok. And the finished brake rods So most now prepared for final assembly but I have to work out where the sand pipe brackets go first. Another challenge Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 Hello Grasshopper, you need to close them gaps up on the springs, use the spring clamps to close them up while you apply some solder to the front and rear edges (running from front to back of the frames). Not the front and back faces. Just found this photo in the Gladiator Royal Scott build (photo copy right dikitriki), this shows what I mean. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 Thanks eagle eye, will address this nuisance immediately. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 All done OzzyO. Thanks for pointing that out. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 And looks the better for it. Ozzy is a helpful soul, and this forum is brilliant. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Well in true Grasshopper tradition, Rather than progress It's more a case of regress, I fitted all of the brake shoes, cross beams and rods but it didn't look right. so two days of dismantling and started again. First was a longer 12ba C/H bolt for the pivots. For some reason the brake shoes have become my nemesis I just need an extra hand from somewhere, but patience ( which I lack ) came through, so here is the first fit. Am much happier with the gap now as it was too small on first attempt. Cross beams now fitted with all brake shoes in place. A dry fit of the rods is looking good, before I had steps in the first and second shackle joints but now after giving the shoes a slightly bigger gap the steps have gone and the rods are all flat. Now final assembly putting the buckles on and a 12ba washer on top just cleaning up to do. At least I get value for money building as I seem to do everything twice, But it teaches you a lot Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 Next job was the brake rods, bit fiddly but went well. Next was to clean all the loose ends of the pivots and beams, I tinned the beam pivots which made life a bit easier. Thats the brakes done, Oh the cocktail sticks are preparation for tinning around the holes for the sandboxes will have to wait though I'm off to meet John Smith Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 Cocktail sticks, cotton buds and blu-tack, all have there uses in the modelling world . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 Indeed Martyn, and more I've got a stash of wooden tea stirrers and plastic cocktail stirrers that come in handy. A lot of time spent this morning assembling the coupling rods, fitting sand boxes and footplate supports. I wish I had more experience as I would do things differently from following the Inst, I had fitted the sand boxes with low melt solder ( 70dg ) because they are WM, but then had to fit the supports which are NS so it was a bit of an operation to get them in place and using 145 dg solder Am learning though. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Today was spent mostly fettering the sand pipe brackets as the brake shoes had already been fitted it made life a bit more difficult. The rear ones once in place had to be fixed to the sandboxes and held by a buckle. I then had to form the sand pipes, this took some imagination as I haven't got anything to refer to, so I made it up as I saw fit. Now you can see how much I had to bend the sand pipe to get it through the hole in the bracket. This might not be correct but sometimes you have to improvise Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 29, 2015 Author Share Posted April 29, 2015 Well in true grasshopper fashion after fitting the rear sand pipe brackets and thinking they were ok I fitted the rest but I didn't fir the pipes, just as well as I was advised that the sand pipe should be in the middle of the Tyre not the outside edge, as I thought by looking at photo's. So the holes in the brackets were approx 1.5mm out, I tried a brief attempt at drilling a hole in the bracket in situ but no good, it had to be a full strip of everything I did yesterday. Now stripping is relatively easy with solder but it runs and when I managed to remove the brackets the solder had run into the slots so I had to ream them all out again before re fitting HO HUM 1 step fwd ect. So back to where I was this time yesterday, these I hope are correct. After drilling the new holes I then filled in the holes that were slightly out with solder, more fettering Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 29, 2015 Share Posted April 29, 2015 That looks better, now all you have to do is cut off the excess and shape them round at the outside edge. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks OzzyO, more fettling All done sand pipe brackets cut down and filed, sand pipes all fitted. And from the underneath. Hopefully that is the end of a bit of a marathon for the sand pipes, Doing things twice though you shouldn't forget the next time you come to do it ( He said fingers crossed. Next the cylinders. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Hi John. Are you going for lined black or plain? Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Hi John. Are you going for lined black or plain? Steve Do you mean the bands on the boiler Steve, If so Red. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Hi John, I think you need to know what loco number your modelling first, and then some more research will be needed regarding the livery that loco had during it's life. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Yes mate I was talking about the lining of the loco but as Martyn said you do need to pick a loco number first Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 call me a heretic ... I think you need to know what loco number your modelling first, and then some more research will be needed regarding the livery that loco had during it's life. WHY ? you do need to pick a loco number first :no:what is wrong with picking the livery you like, then finding a number that fits - especially as the paint and lining come well before adding number transfers and a name plate. Anyway, what the customer* wants the customer gets even if it is painted in some improbable lime green or maroon. (*) even more so when the customer is the builder and modeller (rule 1). Most wouldn't attempt lining, in the first place, brave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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