Vallejo Acrylic Paints

[MikeTrice]

Some further scratch tests have been carried out as these seem the most enlightening.

 

Model Color thinned with Thinner Medium is far more resistant to scratching than Model Air with Airbrush Thinner (note that this might be that the first mix has had many more days to cure so I will repeat again in a week's time).

 

Vallejo black primer is extremely resistant to scratching so would make a good base for priming footplates as would both Halford's Satin black and Matt Black over Halford's Plastic Primer both of which resisted scratching.

 

Vallejo varnished with Klear and its replacement Pledge both provide excellent protection. Of the three Vallejo varnish mediums the gloss is the strongest with the satin and matt showing eveidence of having rubbed off. Ronseal Satin Interior Varnish (A quick drying finish) is also brilliant. I am awaiting further time before comparing their gloss varnish.

 

Although it is too early to give definitive results I would recommend:

1) Some form of black primer/undercoat along footplate edges.

2) Some form of protecting varnish over the painted finish using Klear/Pledge or Ronseal Satin interior quick drying (if you want a matt finish then apply matt varnish over the base varnish)

 

Most durable Model Color options so far are plain Vallejo brush painted (applied in multiple thin coats) 50/50 mix with Klear, 50/50 mix with Vallejo Thinner Medium. Close seconds Model Color 50/50 with Humbrol Clear and 50/50 with Liquitex Airbrush Thinner.

 

Irrespective of the Model Color option when painting, the extra protection provided by the varnish is well worth the effort.

 

Last thing: All the above varnishes were brush painted and given a single coat. I did like the finish of the Pledge which is slightly more satin than Klear.

 

A few more tests are waiting in the wings.

Edited March 22, 2015 by MikeTrice

[MikeTrice]

 

Games Workshop Chaos Black and Army Painter Base Primer Matt Black added.

I had not appreciated that Games Workshop was a primer. The scratch test of it on a plastic spoon gave excellant results, Army Painter less so. Given the convenience of the GW Chaos Black as an aerosol it would probably be my first choice as a black primer.

 

Out of interest I treated a couple of Stainless Steel spoons to both Halford's etch primer and Army Painter's black primer. The Halford's primer scratched off, not so the Army Painter finish.

[Quarryscapes]

Surface preparation will always be key to getting paint to stay on, I've had no issues with Vallejo Surface primer where the surface has been prepped, the only issues occurring on 3D prints where the wax wasn't 100% removed - which can be seen immediately whilst painting as the grey paint turns green if there's wax present! 

 

Properly prepared surfaces so painted can be sanded and will feather rather than peel. The only trouble I find is the finish is VERY matt, no good for transfers at all! 

Edited March 30, 2015 by Quarryscapes

[Quarryscapes]

Oh and one thing I forgot to mention, an interesting almost woodgrain effect can be achieved by spraying with a heavy dilution of windolene - it's thinned so much that the colour runs but settles quite quickly leaving a very flat wavy effect. Wood make good aged painted wood in larger scales.

[bridee]

i have only used Vallejo varnishes which I have found to be excellent  ...just a note on primers though I find the poundshop's  primer for one pound gives very respectable results 

[Rob Pulham]

For those of the weathering persuasion I recently discovered that , Dark Blue Grey and Leather from the Model Colour range are good substitutes for the long time humbrol enamel favourites of Tarmac and matt leather

[Montague]

For those of the weathering persuasion I recently discovered that , Dark Blue Grey and Leather from the Model Colour range are good substitutes for the long time humbrol enamel favourites of Tarmac and matt leather

Intesting - would it be possible to provide numbers for the paints you are referring to?

 

I find the 'German camouflage black brown' from the Vallejo Panzer aces range to be an excellent colour for general grime and also old rust.

[Anglian]

This is a very interesting read for me – thanks for recording and reporting your findings. Although I like the Vallejo Model Colour range for brush painting I have had problems with it when painting white metal and brass models. The best combination I found was to use an etch primer and give a light dusting. After 72 hours drying time a light coat of Vallejo acrylic polyurethane primer gave a good base to work from. However, this thread has been a total revelation to me – I've always thinned with water – now it's become apparent to me that I should be using the Thinner medium. I must get some asap. Thank you – a real eye opener to me that I expect is going to force up the cost of my painting but that's a small price to pay for a more resilient paint job.

 

I bought a 60ml bottle here…

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/111432511254?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

 

Regarding varnishes – a true matt finish has usually been my goal and it's not easy to kill off any slight satin sheen. In my research I ended up ringing a number of technical support people at some of the paint manufacturers. Interestingly one of the key things I wanted was a varnish that would not yellow over time and in regard to this quality they all told me exactly the same thing: any varnish with lacquer or oil base can yellow over time. That's not to say it will definitely yellow but the chemistry is such that they can. The only way to ensure a varnish won't yellow is to use one based on an acrylic resin. This lead me to speak to Vallejo who assured me their varnishes are non-yellowing. Currently I'm using their gloss varnish to seal before and after decals however, I'm still looking for an illusive acrylic varnish that dries really matt. I know a lot of folk swear by Testors and will say they've never had it yellow but for me, knowing that it can yellow is enough to put me off it for life. Essentially almost all DIY varnishes can yellow and I'd go as far as to say that in my experience many do.

 

Edited to correct predicative text errors!

Edited April 4, 2015 by Anglian

[Rumblestripe]

If you are happy to brush apply varnish I can thoroughly recommend Windsor & Newton "Artist's Acrylic Matt Uv Varnish"

 

http://www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/oils-solvents-mediums-and-varnishes/acrylic-colour/varnishes/artists-acrylic-matt-uv-varnish-4-22-us-fl-oz-125ml-bottle-3030930

 

It applies very easily with a slight milky haze and dries perfectly clear giving a lovely matt finish with a very slight sheen like unglazed china (it is a VERY slight sheen) I've never tried airbrushing with it, as I find no problem applying using a brush, it is quite "runny" (for want of a better word) but seems to dry without noticeable pooling or brushmarks. The advantage of a brush applied varnish over aerosol or airbrush applied is that you don't have to worry about fumes or "blooming" from adverse atmospheric conditions and being acrylic means no unpleasant fumes and happy domestic authorities!

 

Happy customer is all I have to declare

[Rob Pulham]

Intesting - would it be possible to provide numbers for the paints you are referring to?

 

I find the 'German camouflage black brown' from the Vallejo Panzer aces range to be an excellent colour for general grime and also old rust.

 

Hi Montague, I can and will, but it will be next weekend before I am near the paints to get the numbers for you.

[bgman]

Intesting - would it be possible to provide numbers for the paints you are referring to?

I find the 'German camouflage black brown' from the Vallejo Panzer aces range to be an excellent colour for general grime and also old rust.

All your information can be found by using your preferred search engine e.g. Google , type in Vallejo paints and their website should give you all the details you'll need.

I've used this range of paints for a long time now and is my preferred choice when modelling.

 

Cheers

[Anglian]

If you are happy to brush apply varnish I can thoroughly recommend Windsor & Newton "Artist's Acrylic Matt Uv Varnish"

 

http://www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/oils-solvents-mediums-and-varnishes/acrylic-colour/varnishes/artists-acrylic-matt-uv-varnish-4-22-us-fl-oz-125ml-bottle-3030930

 

It applies very easily with a slight milky haze and dries perfectly clear giving a lovely matt finish with a very slight sheen like unglazed china (it is a VERY slight sheen) I've never tried airbrushing with it, as I find no problem applying using a brush, it is quite "runny" (for want of a better word) but seems to dry without noticeable pooling or brushmarks. The advantage of a brush applied varnish over aerosol or airbrush applied is that you don't have to worry about fumes or "blooming" from adverse atmospheric conditions and being acrylic means no unpleasant fumes and happy domestic authorities!

 

Happy customer is all I have to declare

 

The other one that works really well is Daler Rowney Acrylic Soluble Matt varnish. The only thing that puts me off this, and I've used it extensively for figures, is the fact that it remains soluble in white spirit. It may just be me but I'd like something permanent (but acrylic) for use on rolling stock. With this varnish if you let it settle out then pour off the clear carrier liquid into a small clean jar then you can 'doctor it'. If you add about 1/2 the clear carrier liquid back in and then shake and stir the living daylights out of the mix then it's ready to try. You need a dark model/figure – black or navy blue as your test dummy, paint on a little varnish. It will probably dry chalky matt with white streaks. You need to keep adding back in a little of the carrier liquid until your tests dry matt but with no white streaks. I have put the mix through an airbrush and it dries so fast you can almost see the model go matt in front of you but I'm not keen on putting such a heavy liquid through the airbrush. If you thin it for spraying then it looses its matt qualities.

 

I've never had much luck with Vallejo matt. It seems to dry satin at best.

Edited April 5, 2015 by Anglian

[MikeTrice]

Can you give an indication of how scratch resistant the Daler Rowney Acrylic Soluble Matt Varnish is please?

[Anglian]

Very good against rubbing sort of wear. Running the edge of a finger nail over it with light to moderate pressure doesn't appear to mark my test piece and I was surprised by this. It will bruise if you really dig a finger nail straight down into it and it'll come away as a white flake if you keep the pressure up. If you enter a contest between your finger nail and it  – you'll win if you really want to peel it that badly but I'd say it will cope with accidental mis-handling well – or at least well enough for me to recommend that you try it.

 

Over white metal it'll give a sort of porcelain type finish, not glossy but it feels oddly cold to the touch in a most peculiar way – you'd need to try it to see what I mean by that comment.

 

Edit: I should add that if you use the Daler Rowney straight over your paintwork it will darken it. However, if you apply Vallejo gloss varnish to seal the surface of your paint work there is very little, if any, shift in hue once the varnish has been applied.

Edited April 12, 2015 by Anglian

[Jeff Smith]

The two bottles of Vallejo paints I bought to try (Neutral Grey 70.992 and Dark Grey 70.862) have virtually no resistance to fingernail scratching, even after drying for several days. My own tests on white styrene with plain (smooth) and lightly sanded surfaces show that Model Master Acryl Neutral Grey (4757) is much superior and dries to a much harder finish. Modelflex from Badger are also very good.

[Jeff Smith]

Ref my post above (#40) - I have just discovered that Vallejo paints, at least the two Model Color greys I have, are susceptible to isopropyl alcohol.  Whereas Testors/Model Master Acryl seem not to be.

 

I discovered this when using the Micro Mark Rust n Dust water based weathering set.  This comprises a rust wash, a black wash, a clear sealer/varnish and a pot of very fine dust.  Only the rust wash contains IPA and applying to a roof painted some weeks ago with a blend of the two greys starting dissolving the paint.  Previously a similar exercise on a roof recently painted with Acryl showed no tendency to lift the paint.

 

Anyone have a similar experience?

[Simon Moore]

I use vallejo air paint it's great stuff. There green is perfect for pre grouping north eastern & it is easily purchased with many stockists locally.

[Vin]

Hi Jeff,

I have noticed that most of the colours come off when in contact with IPA. Fortunately I use it to remove excess paint whilst weathering. The ones with the least resistance are blacks, greys and blues. A bit more vigour is required for browns and reds.

I do like the model air range and game air for those non railway colours.

 

Regards

Vin

[Anglian]

The two bottles of Vallejo paints I bought to try (Neutral Grey 70.992 and Dark Grey 70.862) have virtually no resistance to fingernail scratching, even after drying for several days. My own tests on white styrene with plain (smooth) and lightly sanded surfaces show that Model Master Acryl Neutral Grey (4757) is much superior and dries to a much harder finish. Modelflex from Badger are also very good.

 

I'll have to try Model Master and Modelflex. I can add a bit more to this thread now. I have found that my problem was a clean up issue. By degreasing using cellulose thinners the etch primer I use is now really getting a strong bond into the surface and gives an excellent key. I've not tried rubbing off Vallejo from this but if the paint is rubbing off down to the bare surface, eg bare metal, it's not the paint that's at fault but the primer. If the primer doesn't bond into the bare surface it doesn't matter how many coats of paint or varnish you add the finish is still only as strong as the bond between the primer and the metal.

[mabel]

While I think of it Vallejo does not generally like thinning products that include alcohol which can cause it to go lumpy. Vallejo also produce an Airbrush Cleaner which works very well.

 

I am lucky as I can buy my paints from Ian Allan in London, however I have had no problem ordering them online and getting them posted unlike enamels

 

I know this is an old thread, but I come up against this on many military modelling sites. Vallejo paints should be thinned with water, or their own brand thinning agents. Anything with alcohol, or windowlene or whatever concoction the guy on youtube uses,  will turn it into goo. I use nothing else but Vallejo model color (colour!). All the hints and tips and guidelines on how to use the paint are on their website. Personally I use model color and not model air. The pigment is way better. To spray it I use their own brand 'flow improver' mixed 50/50 with the paint. I have tried their thinner which also works as it should, but flow improver stops a dry tip     on your airbrush. I spray with no problem through a 0.2mm needle/nozzle. For brush painting, I always have a small pot of water with a tiny drop of washing up liquid in it, to loosen the paint or to make a thin wash. An added bonus is cleaning of brushes AND airbrush is done with water!! No smell, no fuss. Just my two penneth worth, hope it helps new users of the paint.

Tony

[mabel]

Boyes shops are widely distributed (see their website) and if the central York one is representative they do a good range of Vallejo paints (and much else of modelling interest as well).

 

Paul

 

Boyes in Malton have a great range also Paul. And they have it on sale at the moment @ £1.90 a bottle. Yates' agricultural emporium also in Malton has a bigger range (believe it or not!) if you happen to be in town.

Tony