muddys-blues Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 (edited) I am looking forward to getting my Magpie, I ordered one as I saw of photo of a Blue Warship on a Milk train, ideal to pull my 6 wheel tanks Edited May 19, 2016 by muddys-blues 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 What a shame the TV programme Magpie didn't work to preserve Magpie like Blue Peter did for 60532. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold uk_pm Posted May 21, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 21, 2016 Lovely model, now in works for fitting DCC sound. Quick question: does anybody know whether the lights need to be fitted with resistors, or whether they are already fitted on the LED circuit boards? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Resistors are on the curcuit board. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Took a model up to Leamington today for a mate of mine, here she is on Hatton bank. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted May 23, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 23, 2016 Has anyone bought the Tower all green version? I'd like to see a photo of the production version, preferably with headcodes in place, if anyone can post one up please. Ta! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Resistors are on the curcuit board. Hi Brian, but what about the fact that the DC circuit board is removed to install the DCC board (as I have just done in mine this afternoon), surely they need to be installed/replaced then. cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 They are on the boards that have the LED's montes on them so not affected by the removal of the main DC circuit board. It's been like this for quite a while now on the Heljan O gauge locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 They are on the boards that have the LED's montes on them so not affected by the removal of the main DC circuit board. It's been like this for quite a while now on the Heljan O gauge locos. I can confirm that info having just fitted sound to a Class 26, which suddenly arrived here at a rather good low price, for an unused never been out of the box loco! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 They are on the boards that have the LED's montes on them so not affected by the removal of the main DC circuit board. It's been like this for quite a while now on the Heljan O gauge locos. Hi TTG, many thanks for that info- I shall now hook up the lights. cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Don't forget you can turn down the brilliance of the lights by adjusting CV's but this does not replace the need for the resistors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 See my conversion here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/38539-ranelagh-bridge-west-london-stabling-point/page-50&do=findComment&comment=2316353 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted May 24, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 24, 2016 Is there an accompanying instruction sheet as I appear to have mislaid mine - any chance some kind soul could scan it and send me a copy? Cheers, Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) I think the Warship is their best release to date. Warning! Take care with the cab windows, they are a clip-in fit from the exterior with the windscreen wipers to hold them in place. when I receive the replacement sprue I will use Pacer's Formula 560 canopy glue to refasten them. I will not use super-glue as it will fog all the transparent plastic Edited May 25, 2016 by Pandora Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 (edited) Just taken delivery of mine and it is suffering from two detached front windows. Will have a look and take note of Pandora's comment. Edited May 25, 2016 by two tone green 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Y Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 We had the same window issue with the review sample. I note from Tony Wright's photo that the angle of the full yellow end, which seems to be the same on the blue ones, is incorrect and slopes too much. Compare to https://flic.kr/p/qYjpsx, the evidence is where it meets the tumblehome at the bottom and the space between the cabside inspection panels and the yellow end. I've passed some other notes on to Ben for the review in July's BRM. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 Just popped the top of mine to see what needs doing for DCC and sound and retrieved the windows at the same time. Easiest windows to refit I have seen. But a touch of glazing glue is needed in the long term to hold them in place. A job for when I get home. DCC and sound fitting looks easy and room in the body for a second speaker. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Hal Nail Posted May 25, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 25, 2016 Just taken delivery of mine and it is suffering from two detached front windows. Will have a look and take note of Pandora's comment. IMG_1404 (1280x960).jpg IMG_1405 (1280x960).jpg I think I'd be slightly more worried about the fact it only appears to have 3 wheels! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 Trick of the light. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pandora Posted May 25, 2016 Share Posted May 25, 2016 I think the post showing the full yellow end of the model of 815 not matching the actual 815 is correct, but do not become too carried away with details, I can recall an article for the yellow paint being Dulux daffodil Yellow, purchased by an LPO ( Local Purchase Order) when the stores were too slow to fulfil an order for the correct BR specification of warning panel yellow, having worked for BR I will not dispute such stories, it is how the Railway works behind the scenes when the staff at the sharp end have to deliver against the odds Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Hi All, Despite a few minor detail issues, Im happy with mine, its a fine model. As Im yet to be initiated into Warship modelling (fettling) I was wondering if someone could answer the following;- 1) Where is the best place to buy nameplates from/who does the best ones? As I fancy modelling Hermes as opposed to Druid; 2) Steve mentioned that the numbers come away easily, with gentle use of the scapel-who does the best replacement numbers, for a re-number Fox?; 3) Also who can supply alternative Headcode numbers and letters?; 5) In MLI et al it shows the boiler and exhaust ports-in the line drawing- covered with mesh....the model just has holes...should they be covered with 'mesh', has anyone any decent overhead photos of a Class 42 (Swindon built loco)? Finally (sorry for any typos-using a portable device), a question for Andy and the BRM team; as these locos already seem to be quite widespread in terms of sales/ownership, would it have been possible for BRM to have had pre-delivery samples for review so that potential buyers had the heads-up prior to purchase-ie the info on the FYEs?? Thanks in anticipation to one and all. Kind regards, CME. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81b Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 (edited) Hi CME For any name/number plates I buy severn mill nameplates every time. In my opinion they are the best available. Kind regards. Mark. Edited June 3, 2016 by 81b Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 3, 2016 Author Share Posted June 3, 2016 Fox are a great match I actually left the D&8 in place, as mark said Severnmill every time. I will have a look at the mesh on the fans because if it's wrong then it's prime candidate for an etch replacement Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Hi CME For any name/number plates I buy severn mill nameplates every time. In my opinion they are the best available. Kind regards. Mark. Hi Mark, Many thanks for that recommendation - greatly appreciated - first hand recommendation is always the best. Kindest regards, CME Fox are a great match I actually left the D&8 in place, as mark said Severnmill every time. I will have a look at the mesh on the fans because if it's wrong then it's prime candidate for an etch replacement Steve Hi Steve, Thanks, any idea of the set number for Fox transfers? Sorry to ask but Ive been on their site and couldnt find them - not sure if there is a technical issue with Fox's site, but it seems to be jumping about too - thanks re the mesh issue too, I was thinking that if they do require mesh then I would use some from the MMP set, really needs some photo evidence and I can only find such for the Class 43s so far. Kind regards CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 4, 2016 Author Share Posted June 4, 2016 http://fox-transfers.co.uk/early-diesel-electric-livery-d-e-numbering-65650 I haven't found a good top view of the fan but the DJH kit version is the same as Heljans Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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