Warship in 7mm

[Lord Flashheart]

Hi CME

In Seans photos on WT you may notice 20035, that's my Heljan 20 which is also converted to single motor and i also removed the fan motor. Your quite right in saying you can use a cheaper (00 gauge) chip as that's what it's fitted with and twin speakers. It also provides extra room for a second speaker and gives you a spare motor and gear set .

 

Rob

Edited July 4, 2016 by Lord Flashheart

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi CME

In Seans photos on WT you may notice 20035, that's my Heljan 20 which is also converted to single motor and i also removed the fan motor. Your quite right in saying you can use a cheaper (00 gauge) chip as that's what it's fitted with and twin speakers. It also provides extra room for a second speaker and gives you a spare motor and gear set .

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

 

Thanks so much for that and the extra info - its greatly appreciated.

 

With the gears and the motor removed have you re-bushed the bogie or just left it as it is?

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME

Edited July 5, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

Surely the motor bogie is removed completely & replaced with a dummy bogie ?

[Lord Flashheart]

Surely the motor bogie is removed completely & replaced with a dummy bogie ?

Hi Phill

The 26s and 27 in Seans photos have a PRMRP dummy bogie fitted but my 20 is simply the Heljan unit with the motor and gears removed and just acts as pick up. Haven't done anything else on that part of it and it runs fine.

 

Rob

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

No reason why not Rob, but I would have been tempted to power another loco with the other motor bogie

[Lord Flashheart]

No reason why not Rob, but I would have been tempted to power another loco with the other motor bogie

Hi Phill

Ahead of you on that one,my dad's got a spare bogie from his Heljan 37 that will at some point be going under my JLTRT class 50, just need to swap the side frames.

 

Rob

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Nice work Rob, I like the idea of up-cycling/canabalisation!

 

Even after an upgrade to new replacement gears, Id be tempted, Phill, to keep the spare motor-bogie, as a, err, spare, just in case! Lol!!

 

When I have a moment I might swap out one of my Hymeks gears & Motors leave the bogie frames as is/and/or replace with a PRMRP or a DIY special bogie and then affix the cosmetic Heljan side-frames. As well as using 'OO' decoders in single bogie Heljans, if using Red Arrow Micromotive in a std Heljan only yields 40 min run time on standard running gear (where as with eg an ABC set up=hours), then one should be able to get an hour and a half out of one charge-or more-on a single powered bogie?? Not as good as hours on end, but better than standard.

 

ATVB,

 

CME

Edited July 5, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher

[lewey13]

Help needed

 

I would really like to have one of these beauties and want to install dcc sound, is it easy any instructions? What type of decoder and who supplies the best sound and speaker. Any help would be really appreciated thanks Duncan

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

Nice work Rob, I like the idea of up-cycling/canabalisation!

Even after an upgrade to new replacement gears, Id be tempted, Phill, to keep the spare motor-bogie, as a, err, spare, just in case! Lol!!

When I have a moment I might swap out one of my Hymeks gears & Motors leave the bogie frames as is/and/or replace with a PRMRP or a DIY special bogie and then affix the cosmetic Heljan side-frames. As well as using 'OO' decoders in single bogie Heljans, if using Red Arrow Micromotive in a std Heljan only yields 40 min run time on standard running gear (where as with eg an ABC set up=hours), then one should be able to get an hour and a half out of one charge-or more-on a single powered bogie?? Not as good as hours on end, but better than standard.

ATVB,

CME

I may try the single Heljan bogie approach myself with batteries too as I still have DC 47,Falcon & a Class 33 from Heljan

[JeffP]

Help needed

 

I would really like to have one of these beauties and want to install dcc sound, is it easy any instructions? What type of decoder and who supplies the best sound and speaker. Any help would be really appreciated thanks Duncan

Can I suggest contacting Cliff Williams?

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Help needed

 

I would really like to have one of these beauties and want to install dcc sound, is it easy any instructions? What type of decoder and who supplies the best sound and speaker. Any help would be really appreciated thanks Duncan

Hi,

 

If running the standard twin motor bogie set up then you will need a fairly hefty decoder as the HJ motors and gears are not all that efficient (although they seem to run superbly well), Zimo are very good (although there has been a price increase for Zimo decoders and the decoders of this size are the sorts of decoders originally intended for the larger scales eg G45 et al), if you de-motor one bogie then a lower rated decoder can be used. If wanting sound then Howes or South West Digital, perhaps, IIRC, 'Mr Soundguy' - the newer generation of sound decoders now have coasting, over-run, idling functions which, when allied to braking etc., IMHO are much better, the earlier generation of sound decoders didnt mirror the prototype all that well, thus didnt look/sound right, relative to coasting etc etc and relative to the cost of the things. As I always say each to their own, because, as with water and smoke, sound cant easily be - fine - scaled, although a level of realism, in terms of loco operations, is added with decent sound. Fitting such should be fairly straight forward as Heljan have made it easier with their later PCBs with, IIRC, plug-in sub-boards that swap out for the decoder to be plugged in instead (there is the inbuilt speaker housing in the tanks etc - which should accommodate a largish speaker).The power-train set up is a little different on the HJ Warship - so a bit of an unknown - but the PCBs should be similar. Steve Fay the OP is probably the expert on that front though.....

 

I may try the single Heljan bogie approach myself with batteries too as I still have DC 47,Falcon & a Class 33 from Heljan

Yes Phill, it seems feasible to me, I cant recall if I have broached the subject with Steve Leyland, but as long as all things are equal and in proportion, then it could be a more cost effective solution than a re-motor using, eg ABC gears. 1 hour 20/30 mins is more of a practical proposition, than 30-40 mins.

 

I didnt realise that you had a Falcon - NICE! - Im still struggling to justify a Cl37 and Cl47 on our BLT and twig line

 

ATVB to all,

 

CME

Edited September 29, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher

[peter220950]

I may try the single Heljan bogie approach myself with batteries too as I still have DC 47,Falcon & a Class 33 from Heljan

 

I ran my Hymek with one motor for a couple of years and it was never found wanting with half a dozen coaches on the back, but.....................

 

I think I've mentioned it elsewhere, don't do what Mr Thickie did and just take out the motor, as I said I ran it for about a year before I realised the unpowered bogie wheels looked like threepenny bits. In addition to pulling coaches and freight it had been dragging its undriven wheels, as the undriven gear train locks the wheels up if left in place, so make sure you take the gears out as well as the motor!

 

Peter

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I ran my Hymek with one motor for a couple of years and it was never found wanting with half a dozen coaches on the back, but.....................

 

I think I've mentioned it elsewhere, don't do what Mr Thickie did and just take out the motor, as I said I ran it for about a year before I realised the unpowered bogie wheels looked like threepenny bits. In addition to pulling coaches and freight it had been dragging its undriven wheels, as the undriven gear train locks the wheels up if left in place, so make sure you take the gears out as well as the motor!

 

Peter

Hi Peter,

 

That is sage advice indeed - thanks for Posting, I for one, am grateful, Im sure others will be too.

 

Best to take out all the gubbings and just leave the wheels and axles.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

I ran my Hymek with one motor for a couple of years and it was never found wanting with half a dozen coaches on the back, but.....................

 

I think I've mentioned it elsewhere, don't do what Mr Thickie did and just take out the motor, as I said I ran it for about a year before I realised the unpowered bogie wheels looked like threepenny bits. In addition to pulling coaches and freight it had been dragging its undriven wheels, as the undriven gear train locks the wheels up if left in place, so make sure you take the gears out as well as the motor!

 

Peter

Yes good advice Peter, I was thinking along the lines of powering two loco's with a Heljan motor bogie each & a new un-powered bogie each , as I have spare 33 & 47 bodies

 

[steve fay]

This might help you when you come to fit the chip

[CME and Bottlewasher]

This might help you when you come to fit the chip IMG_4826.PNG

That's helpful, thanks Steve.

[lewey13]

Can I suggest contacting Cliff Williams?

Many thanks will do.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi All,

 

Here's mine in the garden, awaiting steps, fettling, new plates (renaming to Hermes), hopefully a flavour of things to come when the track-work is complete (maybe removal of one gear-set and motor??!).

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

Photographs are the copyright of the author of this Post/Photographer 2016 etc.

 

Edited October 1, 2016 by CME and Bottlewasher

[steve fay]

Here's my slightly altered version, D806 with disc headcodes plus a few other mods! I've also done a North British version which is back in under coat as I wasn't happy with the paint finish

[Kelly]

Hi All,

 

Here's mine in the garden, awaiting steps, fettling, new plates (renaming to Hermes), hopefully a flavour of things to come when the track-work is complete (maybe removal of one gear-set and motor??!).

 

ATVB

 

CME

 

Photographs are the copyright of the author of this Post/Photographer 2016 etc.

 

 

 

IMG_0129.JPG

Here's my slightly altered version, D806 with disc headcodes plus a few other mods! I've also done a North British version which is back in under coat as I wasn't happy with the paint finish

 

Those both look great. I have somewhat of an affinity to this class. Would be nice to get one of D827 at some point, but I doubt I'll find the pennies any time soon alas. But great models all the same.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

IMG_0129.JPG

Here's my slightly altered version, D806 with disc headcodes plus a few other mods! I've also done a North British version which is back in under coat as I wasn't happy with the paint finish

Inspiring work Steve, its Posts and photos like that which keep me going-wonderful stuff!

 

  

Those both look great. I have somewhat of an affinity to this class. Would be nice to get one of D827 at some point, but I doubt I'll find the pennies any time soon alas. But great models all the same.

 

I know the feeling! Lots of models coming out, leaves most of us 'brassic'. Im still kicking myself, years later, for not buying a very cheap HJ Hymek in BFYE! But when my RTR purchases slow Im looking forward to kit building again too. As Phill hinted at with the current resin warship kits, if a decent etch set came with them then I would be very tempted....a very good cost effective layout model could then be had. Alsothe HJ models are very very heavy and with twin motors/gears its two locos in one and most of us only need one model in one. Its a fine thing tho:-)

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

Inspiring work Steve, its Posts and photos like that which keep me going-wonderful stuff!

 

  

 

I know the feeling! Lots of models coming out, leaves most of us 'brassic'. Im still kicking myself, years later, for not buying a very cheap HJ Hymek in BFYE! But when my RTR purchases slow Im looking forward to kit building again too. As Phill hinted at with the current resin warship kits, if a decent etch set came with them then I would be very tempted....a very good cost effective layout model could then be had. Alsothe HJ models are very very heavy and with twin motors/gears its two locos in one and most of us only need one model in one. Its a fine thing tho:-)

I do hope the Model Express/McGeechan Warship resurface in an improved form, although with 4 Warships from this stable myself I don't really need anymore, but it would be of benefit to others I'm sure

[Hal Nail]

I do hope the Model Express/McGeechan Warship resurface in an improved form, although with 4 Warships from this stable myself I don't really need anymore, but it would be of benefit to others I'm sure

 

I have one I've been meaning to sell for years as I'll never get round to building it. Go on, you know you want another!

[Andrew P]

Hi Guys, Does anyone know if a O Gauge Warship will negotiate the New Peco Set Track Radius of 40.5'' please? My Shed is 8ft 6'' wide and I want some room for Scenics outside the Fence.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Guys, Does anyone know if a O Gauge Warship will negotiate the New Peco Set Track Radius of 40.5'' please? My Shed is 8ft 6'' wide and I want some room for Scenics outside the Fence.

Andrew,

 

My understanding is that all Heljan diesels will negotiate 4' radius curves - so 40.5" would be pushing it I would of thought, but it may scrape around if the cab steps etc off. You would need therefore 48" radius as a minium.

 

Hope that helps, maybe a.n.other Poster could test out the theory for you though?

 

Kind regards,

 

CME